The situation when the refrigerator Ariston stops freezing in the upper compartment often takes you by surprise and can lead to food spoilage. Owners notice that food in the freezer begins to thaw, the ice crust disappears or, conversely, a snow coat forms, and in the main chamber the temperature rises above acceptable values. This is an alarming signal indicating a violation of the cooling cycle or failures in the control system.
There can be many reasons for this behavior of equipment: from a banal overload of products to the failure of expensive compressor components. It is important not to panic and consistently check the main systems of the unit. In this article, we will analyze the most likely causes of malfunctions and methods for eliminating them, so that you can understand whether you need to call a technician or the problem can be solved yourself.
It is worth noting that modern models Hotpoint-Ariston with the No Frost system are more complex than older single-compressor counterparts. Here, the circulation of cold air is forced, and if the fan stops or the ducts become clogged, the cold simply does not reach the upper shelves. Understanding the operating principle of your model is the first step to successful repair.
Checking simple causes and external factors
Before disassembling the unit or calling a specialist, it is necessary to eliminate basic operating errors. Often, users themselves create conditions under which the refrigerator does not freeze the upper camera is installed, without even knowing it. For example, if you have just placed a large amount of warm food in the chamber, the compressor may work hard, but cannot cope with the sharp increase in temperature inside.
Pay attention to the loading density. If the food is placed too tightly and blocks the air circulation holes, the cold flow will not be able to be evenly distributed throughout the volume. In models with No Frost this is critically important, since there is no natural convection, but forced airflow.
- ❄️ Check that the contents of the shelf do not block the outlet openings of the air ducts.
- 🌡️ Make sure that the thermostat is not set to the minimum position or mode “Eco.”
- 🚪 Inspect the door seals for cracks or loose fit.
- 🧊 Make sure that there is no thick layer of ice on the back wall blocking the sensors.
It is also worth checking the temperature in the room. If the refrigerator is installed next to a radiator, stove or in direct sunlight, its operating efficiency drops sharply. Heat transfer is disrupted, and the system may not have time to remove heat from the evaporator.
⚠️ Attention: If the door seal is damaged or dirty crumbs, warm air constantly flows inside. This leads to continuous operation of the compressor and the formation of ice, which blocks cooling.
In some cases, the problem is solved by simple defrosting. If you have not performed this procedure for a long time, ice may have blocked the condensate drainage channels or the evaporator itself. Unplug the appliance for 10-12 hours, leaving the doors open. This will help melt the ice plugs, which often cause Ariston to stop cooling.
Faults in the defrost system No Frost
If after defrosting the refrigerator started working normally, but after a week or two the problem with cooling the upper chamber returned, it means The automatic defrost system is faulty. In units Ariston with technology No Frost the ice on the evaporator should regularly melt thanks to the heating element. If this process is disrupted, the evaporator becomes overgrown with ice, the fan stops moving air, and cold stops flowing into the chambers.
The main culprits here are the defrost heating element, defrost sensor or fuse. The heating element may burn out and stop heating, and the sensor may give incorrect readings to the controller, which is why the heating does not turn on on time. Diagnostics of these elements requires testing with a multimeter.
☑️ Diagnostics of the defrost system
Often owners are faced with a situation where fan it hums, but no air flows. This is a sure sign that the blades have hit the ice coat. In this case, it is necessary to completely defrost the unit and check the operation of the heater. If the heating element is intact, but does not heat, the problem may be in the control circuit or wiring.
⚠️ Attention: When replacing the heating element or sensors, be sure to use original spare parts or high-quality analogues. Cheap components may not meet the temperature characteristics, which will lead to repeated failure in a short time.
It is also important to check the fuse that is in the heating element circuit. It burns out if the heating element shorts out or runs too long. Replacing the fuse is an inexpensive procedure, but without eliminating the root cause (for example, a stuck relay), it may be needed again.
Problems with the thermostat and temperature sensors
Responsible for maintaining the set temperature in the refrigerator thermostat (in mechanical models) or thermal sensor (in electronic). If this element fails, it can send a false signal that the chamber is already cold enough and turn off the compressor. As a result, the products in the upper compartment begin to deteriorate.
In electronic models Ariston sensors often fail due to voltage fluctuations or natural aging. Symptoms can be different: the refrigerator either does not turn on at all, or works non-stop, trying to reach an unattainable temperature. In the latter case, the upper chamber may freeze too much, or, if the logic fails, not freeze at all.
- 🔧 The mechanical thermostat can be checked by closing its contacts: if the compressor starts working, then the regulator is faulty.
- 📉 The electronic sensor is checked by measuring the resistance at different temperatures (a reference book is needed resistance).
- 💡 The indicators on the control panel may flash, signaling a specific sensor error.
- 🔄 Replacing the sensor requires partial disassembly of the internal panel of the refrigerator.
Sometimes the problem lies not in the sensor itself, but in oxidation of the contacts or broken wires, walking towards him. Vibration from compressor operation can damage the connection over time. Visual inspection of the wiring can often help locate the break.
If you have an electronically controlled model, pay attention to the display. Often the self-diagnosis system produces an error code that directly points to the problem unit. The decoding of the codes can be found in the instructions or on specialized repair forums Hotpoint-Ariston.
Malfunctions of the compressor and start relay
The most serious and expensive unit to repair is compressor. If it does not start, hums but does not pump, or operates very intermittently, the cold will not be produced at all. In refrigerators Ariston there are often problems with the start-up relay, which supplies current to the motor windings.
The relay is a small plastic block that fits onto the shank of the compressor. Over time, the contacts inside it burn out, or the bimetallic strip loses its properties. As a result, the compressor tries to start, clicks and stalls. This is the classic symptom of a refrigerator not freezing in any of the compartments, but sometimes if the compressor is weak, it can cool the freezer while leaving the top warm.
A rarer but possible cause is loss of compressor performance. The motor hums, the relay clicks, but the pressure in the system is not enough to circulate freon. Only a specialist can diagnose this using a pressure gauge manifold. In this case, the compressor needs to be replaced, which is not always economically feasible for older models.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a loud metallic knock or strong vibration when trying to start, immediately unplug the refrigerator. Continuing operation in this mode is guaranteed to lead to a wedge of the compressor.
It is also worth mentioning dual-circuit cooling systems, where each chamber can have its own circuit or damper. If your model Ariston has a separate control system, the problem may be in the solenoid valve, which does not open the freon supply to the upper chamber circuit.
Freon leakage and clogged capillary tube
Refrigerant (freon) - This is the working fluid that circulates through the system and transfers heat. If a microcrack occurs in the circuit (often in the foamed part of the housing or at the junction of the tubes), the gas gradually evaporates. First, the refrigerator starts working longer, then the upper chamber stops freezing, and then the freezer.
The second option for a hydraulic problem is clogged capillary tube. An ice or mud blockage may have formed in the system, blocking refrigerant circulation. Outwardly, this manifests itself as follows: the compressor works constantly, the condenser (grid at the back) is hot, and the evaporator inside is cold only partially or completely warm.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Characteristic sign |
|---|---|---|
| The refrigerator hums, but does not cool | Freon leakage | The condenser is cold, the compressor is hot |
| The freezer is working, the top warm | Lack of freon / Clogged | The evaporator is covered with ice unevenly |
| The compressor turns on for 10-20 seconds and turns off | Clogged system | Relay click, no cooling |
| An oily stain on the back wall | Mechanical damage | Obvious leak in an accessible place |
Diagnostics of a leak or blockage at home is practically impossible without special equipment. The technician uses a leak detector, nitrogen for pressure testing and a vacuum pump. Repair involves searching for the leak, soldering, replacing the filter-drier and refilling with new freon.
You can only try to find the leak using soapy water on the visible tubes at the back of the refrigerator. If it poisons in the foamed part (inside the walls), then the repair becomes difficult and expensive, sometimes requiring the installation of an external evaporator (“crying” on the back wall).
Failures in the operation of the control module
The "brain" of the refrigerator Ariston is an electronic control module. It collects data from all sensors and controls actuators: compressor, fan, heating elements. If a capacitor, track or microcircuit burns out on the board, commands may be issued incorrectly.
Frequent power surges in the network are the main cause of failure of electronics. The symptoms can be strange: the refrigerator sometimes freezes, sometimes it doesn’t, spontaneously changes modes, the display goes out or, conversely, all the indicators are on. In some cases, the module freezes and requires a reboot.
Try to perform a full reset: unplug the refrigerator from the outlet for 15-20 minutes. If after turning on the problem disappears, there may be a single software glitch. If after some time upper chamber it stops freezing again, most likely the control board needs to be repaired or replaced.
⚠️ Attention: When there are voltage surges in your network, be sure to use a good quality stabilizer or surge protector. This will extend the life of the refrigerator electronics and prevent expensive module repairs.
Repairing the control module requires the qualifications of a radio engineer. It is necessary to ring the board elements, find burnt tracks or swollen capacitors. It is often cheaper and more reliable to replace the entire board with a new or refurbished one than to solder individual components that may fail again.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does an Ariston refrigerator only freeze at the bottom, but is warm at the top?
Most often this indicates a problem with air circulation in No Frost systems (the channels are clogged with ice, the fan is faulty) or for a freon leak/clogging, when there is only enough refrigerant for the primary circuit (freezer). It is also possible that the air flow control damper may fail.
How long should defrosting last if the Ariston has stopped freezing?
To completely defrost and thaw the ice in the hidden channels of the evaporator, it is recommended to keep the refrigerator turned off with the doors open for at least 12, and preferably 24 hours. A shorter defrosting may not eliminate the ice jam completely.
Is it possible to have a refrigerator if it does not freeze the upper chamber?
Short-term - yes, but the food in the upper compartment will quickly spoil. Long-term operation with a malfunction (especially if it does not freeze due to a leak or problems with the compressor) can lead to overheating and final failure of the motor. It is better to eliminate the cause.
What does the flashing temperature indicator on the Ariston panel mean?
A flashing indicator usually signals that the temperature in the chamber has risen above the permissible norm. This may be due to warm food being loaded, a door not being closed tightly, or a technical fault (lack of refrigeration). If after defrosting and checking the door, the blinking continues, diagnostics is needed.
Is it necessary to change the filter drier when repairing a freon leak?
Yes, definitely. The filter drier absorbs moisture from the system. If the seal is broken, air and moisture get inside, which saturate the filter. If it is not replaced, moisture will freeze in the capillary tube, causing re-clogging in a short time.