What is used to fill the refrigerator motor: refrigerant and oil for the compressor - complete analysis

When the refrigerator stops freezing and the compressor works without stopping or does not turn on at all, the first thought is a refrigerant leak. But what exactly flows in the “heart” of the equipment, and is it possible to refuel it yourself? Refrigerator motor (compressor) is not just an electric motor, but a complex system where two key substances circulate: refrigerant (aka freon) and compressor oil. Their correct selection determines whether the equipment will work for another 10 years or “die” a month after repair.

Many people mistakenly think that refilling a refrigerator is simply adding “some kind of liquid.” In fact, incompatibility of refrigerant and oil can lead to compressor jamming, tube corrosion, or even an explosion (in rare cases with ammonia systems). In this article, we will look at what substances professionals use, how to choose them for a specific model, and why saving on quality will result in expensive repairs.

1. Refrigerant: what freon is used in refrigerators

Refrigerant is a working substance that circulates through the refrigerator system, absorbing heat in the evaporator and releasing it in the condenser. 99% of household refrigerators they work on freons (trademarks Freon™, Genetron®, Suva®), but their composition differs greatly depending on the year of manufacture of the equipment. For example, old Soviet refrigerators (ZIL, Minsk, Biryusa) were filled with R-12 a refrigerant that has been banned for production since 2020 due to harm to the ozone layer. Modern models (Samsung, LG, Indesit) use R-134a or R-600a (isobutane).

It is important to understand that replacing the refrigerant with an analogue without taking into account the technical characteristics is like pouring diesel into a gasoline engine. For example, R-600a (isobutane) requires special oil and is not compatible with some older model copper tubing due to the risk of corrosion. A R-290 (propane), although environmentally friendly, is explosive in case of leaks - it is used only in industrial systems with enhanced sealing.

• 🔹 R-12 - outdated freon for refrigerators before 1995. Prohibited to production, but still found in older models. Requires mineral-based oil.
• 🔹 R-134a —the most common refrigerant for equipment from 1995 to 2010. Compatible with synthetic oils POE.
• 🔹 R-600a (isobutane) - environmentally friendly freon for modern refrigerators (Liebherr, Beko, Atlant). Requires oil PVE or POE.
• 🔹 R-290 (propane) - used in industrial refrigerators. Explosive, for household models not applicable.

⚠️ Attention: If your refrigerator was manufactured before 2000, there is a high probability that it contains R-12. Refilling it today is more expensive due to the shortage, and a complete replacement R-134a will require flushing the system and changing the oil - this is + 30–50% of the cost of repairs.

2. Compressor oil: why it cannot be ignored

The oil in a refrigerator compressor performs three critical functions:

1. Lubrication of rubbing parts (pistons, bearings).
2. Heat removal from heated components.
3. Sealing gaps to prevent refrigerant leaks.

Without oil, the compressor will work from several minutes to an hour, after which it will jam. But no less important what kind of oil is used. For example, mineral oils (MO) are compatible only with R-12, and R-134a and R-600a require synthetic oils based on polyol esters (POE) or polyvinyl esters (PVE).

The mistake of many "do-it-yourselfers" is to fill in the first available oil (for example, automobile 5W-30). This leads to:

• 🔥 Overheating of the compressor due to low thermal conductivity.
• 💥 Destruction of seals and freon leaks.
• 🛑 Piston jamming due to insufficient lubrication under high loads.

3. How to determine what kind of refrigerant and oil is in your refrigerator

There are three reliable ways to find out what type of refrigerant is in your refrigerator. The refrigerator is charged:

1. Technical plate. On the back wall or inside the chamber (usually on the side panel) there is a sticker indicating the model, serial number and type of refrigerant. Look for inscriptions like Refrigerant: R-134a or Oil: POE ISO 32.
2. Compressor model. On the compressor itself. (black “barrel” at the bottom of the refrigerator) there is a tag with the brand (for example, Embraco EGX 90H or Secop (Danfoss) NL10F). For this brand you can find technical documentation with recommendations for refueling.
3. Year of manufacture. Refrigerators up to 1995 - almost certainly R-12, from 1995 to 2010 - R-134a, after 2010 - R-600a or R-134a.

If the plate erased or missing, try to find documentation for the refrigerator model on the manufacturers' websites. For example, for Atlant and Indesit manuals are often posted with a section Technical Specificationswhere the refrigerant is indicated. For old Soviet models (Stinol, Oka), information can be found on repairmen forums. (for example, Mastergrad or Remont-Holodilnikov.ru).

⚠️ Attention: If the sign says R-12, but you want to switch to R-134a, you will have to:

• Completely drain the old oil and flush the system.
• Replace the filter drier.
• Use POE oil instead mineral.

Without these steps, the compressor will last at most six months.

What to do if the model of the refrigerator is unknown?

If you bought the refrigerator secondhand without documents, try:

1. Take a photo of the compressor and search for its brand on Google.
2. Contact the service center with a request to identify the model by a photo of the insides.
3. Use a universal refueling kit (for example, R-134a + POE 32), but this is risky for older models.

4. Is it possible to refill the refrigerator yourself: risks and realities

Theoretically, you can fill the refrigerator with your own hands if you have:

• 🔧 Vacuum pump (for pumping air out of the system).
• 🔧 Manometric manifold (for pressure control).
• 🔧 Cylinder with refrigerant and oil.
• 🔧 Blowtorch and solder (for sealing the tubes after refilling).

But in practice 90% of self-refills end in repeated repairs after 1–3 months. Why?

Firstly, without experience, it is easy to make a mistake with the amount of refrigerant. Refilling leads to increased pressure and the risk of circuit rupture, and underfilling to insufficient cooling. Secondly, moisture or air may remain in the system, which leads to corrosion and blockage of the capillary tube. Thirdly, modern refrigerants (for example, R-600a) require precise dosage of oil - its excess or deficiency will accelerate the wear of the compressor.

If you decide to do the repair yourself, follow this checklist:

Check the type of refrigerant and oil according to the plate|Buy a cylinder with freon and oil (with a margin of 10–15%)|Prepare a vacuum pump and manifold|Solder the leak (if any)|Pump out the old refrigerant and air (vacuum for at least 30 minutes)|Fill the system, monitoring the pressure according to pressure gauge|Check the tightness with a soap solution

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⚠️ Attention: Refrigerant R-600a (isobutane) is explosive at a concentration in air of more than 1.3%. Refill it only in a well-ventilated area, away from open flames. The cylinder must be connected through a reducer with a check valve!

5. How much does it cost to refill a refrigerator: prices and pitfalls

The cost of refilling depends on three factors:

1. Refrigerant type. R-12 it is the most expensive (from 1,500 rubles per 1 kg), since its production is prohibited. R-134a and R-600a cheaper (500–800 rubles per 0.5 kg cylinder).
2. System volume. A household refrigerator requires 50–150 grams of freon, and a freezer requires up to 300 g.
3. Complexity of work. A simple refueling costs 2000–3500 rubles, and a complete replacement with washing and oil change costs 5000–8000 rubles.

Where is it cheaper to refill the refrigerator?

• 🏠 A mobile technician. Convenient, but expensive: +1500–2000 rub. for departure. Suitable for urgent repairs.
• 🔧 Service center. 20–30% cheaper, but you will have to carry the refrigerator yourself.
• 🛠️ On your own. Saving up to 50%, but only if you have the equipment and experience.

⚠️ Attention: Some workshops offer refilling “at a low price” without vacuuming. This means that air and moisture will remain in the system, which in 1-2 months will lead to a new leak. Evacuation is a mandatory step! Its absence should alert you.

6. Common mistakes when refilling and how to avoid them

Even professionals sometimes make mistakes that shorten the life of the refrigerator. Here are the most common ones:

1. Wrong type of oil. For example, pouring mineral oil into a system with R-134a leads to its separation and loss of lubricating properties.
2. Overcharging or undercharging. The optimal amount of freon is indicated on the plate compressor (for example Charge: 120g). Exceeding the norm by 20% increases the load on the compressor, and a deficiency reduces the cooling capacity.
3. Ignoring vacuuming. Air in the system oxidizes the oil and leads to corrosion of the tubes. Evacuation should last at least 30 minutes (for systems with a volume of up to 0.5 liters).
4. Use a household vacuum cleaner instead of a vacuum pump. A household vacuum cleaner does not create sufficient vacuum (you need at least 500 microns Hg).
5. Refilling without checking for leaks. If the cause of the leak is not eliminated (for example, a crack in the condenser), freon will leak out again.

How to avoid these mistakes?

• 📋 Use only those refrigerants and oils that are indicated on the compressor plate.
• ⚖️ Weigh the freon cylinder before and after refilling to accurately measure the required amount.
• 🔍 Check the system for leaks with a soap solution (bubbles will appear at the joints of the tubes).
• ⏱️ Do not shorten the vacuuming time. It takes at least 30 minutes to completely remove moisture.

What to do if after refueling the refrigerator does not cool?

Possible reasons:

1. Insufficient amount of freon (need to be added).
2. Clogged capillary tube (flushing or replacement is required).
3. Compressor malfunction (check the windings with an ohmmeter).
4. Airing of the system (evacuation needs to be repeated).

If the refrigerator turns on, but does not freeze, most likely the problem is in underfilling or clogged filter drier.

7. Alternative refrigerants: is it possible to use substitutes

With the transition to environmentally friendly standards, many old refrigerants (for example R-12) were banned. Instead, they offer substitutes, but not all of them are safe:

• 🔹 R-134a - the most common substitute R-12, but requires a complete oil change with POE.
• 🔹 R-413A (a mixture of R-134a, R-12 i R-21) - positioned as "drop-in" (does not require oil changes), but in practice it reduces the life of the compressor.
• 🔹 R-600a - environmentally friendly, but explosive. Not suitable for older models with copper pipes.
• 🔹 R-290 (propane) - highly efficient, but used only in industrial installations due to fire hazard.

Can these substitutes be used? Theoretically, yes, but with reservations:

• For R-12 → R-134a it is necessary to change the oil and filter-drier.
• R-413A can be poured into old systems without flushing, but the compressor will last 20–30% less.
• R-600a incompatible with mineral oils - a complete flush will be required.

⚠️ Attention: Some "craftsmen" suggest filling refrigerators with car freon (R-12 from air conditioners). This is strictly prohibited: automobile freon contains additives that destroy the seals of household compressors.

8. When refilling does not help: signs of a compressor malfunction

If the refrigerator does not cool, the problem is not always a freon leak. Sometimes the compressor itself is to blame. Here are the signs that refueling will not solve the problem:

• 🔊 Compressor buzzes, but does not start —the winding is burned out or the piston is jammed.
• 🔥 Compressor housing heats up excessively (more than 90°C) - a sign of an interturn short circuit.
• ⚡ Refrigerator automatic knocks out when turned on - short circuit in the windings.
• 🛑 Compressor works without stoppingbut does not freeze - freon may leak or wear of the piston group.

How to check the compressor?

1. Turn off the refrigerator and wait for the compressor to cool down.
2. Remove the start-up relay (black box on the compressor).
3. Ring the windings ohmmeter:
   • Resistance between C (common) and S (start) — 20–40 Ohms.
   • Resistance between C and R (run) — 10–20 Ohm.
   • The resistance between S and R is the sum of the two previous values.

If the resistance is 0 or ∞, the winding is burned out.

If the compressor is faulty, refilling will not help - it will need to be replaced (cost 4,000–10,000 rubles, depending on the model). In some cases, it is cheaper to buy a new refrigerator, especially if the old one is more than 10 years old.

FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions

Is it possible to fill a refrigerator with car freon from an air conditioner?

No! Automotive R-12 or R-134a contains additives (for example, dyes or anti-corrosion additives) that destroy the seals of household compressors. In addition, air conditioners use a different type of oil (PAG), incompatible with refrigeration systems.

How much freon is needed to refill a refrigerator Atlant?

The amount of freon depends on the model. For example:

• Atlant MXM 1705 — 80–100 g R-600a.
• Atlant XM 4021-000 — 120–150 g R-134a.

The exact value is indicated on the compressor plate (look for the inscription Charge or Refrigerant).

What happens if you pour freon into the refrigerator?

Refilling leads to:

• Increased pressure in the condenser and risk of pipe rupture.
• Increased load on the compressor (it will overheat and wear out faster).
• Deterioration of heat transfer - the refrigerator will freeze worse.

The optimal amount of freon is calculated by the formula: V (system volume) × refrigerant density. for household refrigerators, this is usually 50–150 grams.

What kind of freon is in the refrigerator Samsung RL-33?

In most models Samsung 2010–2020 is used R-134a. To accurately determine, look at the sticker on the back wall or on the compressor. If it says Refrigerant: R-600a, it means the refrigerator is filled with isobutane (this applies to new models after 2018).

Is it possible to mix different types of freons?

No! Mixing refrigerants (for example, R-12 and R-134a) leads to:

• Unpredictable pressure in the system.
• Destruction of oil and seals.
• Loss of cooling capacity.

If you need to switch from one freon to another (for example, from R-12 to R-134a), the system must be completely cleaned of old refrigerant and oil.