The situation when food remains hard in the freezer, but stuffiness in the refrigerator compartment and food spoils, is classic for modern technology. This phenomenon often takes you by surprise, since it intuitively seems that if one part of the unit works, then the entire system is working. However, in modern two-chamber models, especially with a system No Frost, different components or operating modes of one compressor may be responsible for cooling different zones.
Before calling a technician, it is worth conducting an initial diagnosis that will help you understand the scale of the problem. Often the cause is not a breakdown of expensive equipment, but a simple violation of operating rules or an electronics failure. In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanics of the process, typical malfunctions and ways to eliminate them on your own, if possible.
The main reason for the temperature imbalance lies in the peculiarities of the refrigerant circulation. In single-compressor models, cold air from the freezer is pumped into the refrigerator compartment through special channels. If this process is disrupted, it is the upper compartment that suffers. In models with two compressors, the problem can be localized in one of the circuits, which simplifies diagnosis. Understanding exactly how your unitworks is the first step to solving the problem.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear loud knocking, clicking or humming noises, do not try to disassemble the compressor yourself. This can be life-threatening and will permanently damage the equipment.
Principle of operation and distribution of cold
To understand why the refrigerator does not freeze, you need to understand the physics of the process. In systems No Frost the evaporator is located hidden, usually behind the back wall of the freezer. The fan drives cold air through the ducts. If it is warm in the main compartment, it means that the air simply does not reach there or is not cooled properly.
In drip systems (“crying” refrigerator), the evaporator is located directly in the chamber. Here the problem is most often associated with a freon leak or incorrect operation of the thermostat. The compressor can run continuously, trying to raise the temperature, but due to the lack of refrigerant, the effect is achieved only in the evaporator zone (freezer).
The key element here is circulation. If it is broken, cold air stagnates below or in the freezer. It is important to check that the ventilation openings are not blocked by food. Sometimes it is enough to simply unload the shelves at the back wall to restore normal heat exchange.
How to check the air circulation?
Place your palm on the ventilation holes inside the refrigerator compartment. If you do not feel air movement when the compressor is running, it means that the ventilation system is blocked or faulty.
Diagnostics of the No Frost system
The system No Frost is susceptible to specific breakdowns associated with freezing. If the refrigerator has stopped freezing, but is humming, most likely a “snow coat” has formed on the evaporator, which is blocking the operation of the fan. Ice blocks the air supply channels, and the cold remains in the freezer.
Partial disassembly is often required to test this theory. It is necessary to remove the back panel in the freezer and inspect the evaporator. If it is covered with a thick layer of ice, and the fan stops or turns with difficulty, the problem has been found. In this case, complete defrosting of the unit is required within 24 hours.
- 🧊 Check whether the air duct damper that regulates the supply of cold is frozen.
- 🌀 Make sure that the fan blades are not damaged or jammed with ice.
- 🔌 Call with a multimeter Defrost heating element - it could burn out, which is why the ice does not melt automatically.
☑️ Diagnostics No Frost
Often owners are faced with a situation where after defrosting the refrigerator starts working normally, but after a week the problem returns. This indicates a malfunction of one of the elements of the defrost system: Heating element, defrost sensor or timer (in mechanical models). Replacing these parts usually solves the problem radically.
Problems with the refrigerant and compressor
If everything is visually clean in the freezer, there is no ice, the fan is noisy, and there is no cold in the upper compartment, there may be a leak. freon. If the amount of refrigerant is insufficient, it is only enough for the first evaporation circuit (freezer), and the gas simply does not reach the second circuit or does not have time to cool down.
It is difficult to diagnose a leak on your own, but there are indirect signs. The compressor may run non-stop, trying to compensate for the lack of cold. The condenser (grid at the back) may be only partially warm to the touch or remain cold. Bloating of the walls of the housing may also be observed.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Action |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor hums, but does not start | Faulty starting relay | Replacing the relay |
| The refrigerator works constantly | Freon leak | Searching for leaks, refilling |
| The sound of pouring water is heard | Normal circulation or leakage | Checking pressure |
| Alarm light is on | Increase in temperature | Checking settings |
⚠️ Attention: Filling a refrigerator with freon requires special equipment and a license. Do not try to do this work yourself without skills and tools.
Another reason may be clogged capillary tube. Oil circulates in the system, which over time can coke or freeze in a narrow place. The symptoms are similar to a leak: the compressor is running, the freezer is freezing, and the refrigerator compartment is warm. To eliminate this, you need to purge the system or replace the filter-drier.
Faults in electronics and sensors
Modern refrigerators, such as LG, Samsung, Boschare controlled by complex electronics. If the refrigerator does not freeze, the problem may lie in the “brains” of the device. Failure of a thermostat or temperature sensor results in the controller “thinking” that there is already cold in the chamber and does not issue a command to cool.
Sensors often fail due to voltage fluctuations or natural aging. Their resistance changes and the readings become incorrect. You can check the sensor with a multimeter, comparing its resistance at different temperatures with tabular data for a specific model.
It is also worth paying attention to the control module. If the board shows signs of burning, oxidation, or swollen capacitors, DIY repairs may be difficult. In such cases, flashing or replacing the entire board is required. Sometimes the failure is software in nature and can be treated by resetting the settings.
- 🔍 Inspect the control board for visual defects.
- 🌡️ Check the resistance of the refrigeration chamber air sensor.
- 🔄 Try resetting the errors using a combination of buttons (depending on models).
Mechanical damage and seals
The reason does not always lie inside the unit. Sometimes heat comes in from outside due to a loose door. If seal has dried out, become dirty or deformed, cold air leaves, and warm air constantly enters. The compressor cannot cope with the heat flow, and the temperature in the chamber rises.
You can check the tightness in a simple way: hold a sheet of paper with the door and try to pull it out. If the paper comes out easily without resistance, then the pressure is insufficient. Also inspect the hinges: if the door is skewed, a tight closure cannot be achieved.
Mechanical damage can also occur inside. For example, cracks in plastic air ducts through which cold air comes from the freezer. If a hole has formed in the channel, the air flow bypasses the refrigeration chamber. Repair in this case consists of replacing or sealing the plastic elements.
Algorithm of actions when a problem is detected
If you find that the refrigerator has stopped freezing, do not panic. Be consistent. First, rule out the simplest reasons: check the settings, how tightly the door is closed, the presence of food in the path of air flow. Often this is enough to restore operation.
If simple methods do not help, move on to more complex diagnostics. Defrost the refrigerator completely (at least 24 hours with the doors open). This will eliminate the “snow coat” problem and allow the defrost system to reset. After turning on, monitor the operation for several hours.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use sharp objects to chip ice. Damage to the evaporator will lead to an immediate leak of freon and expensive repairs.
If defrosting does not help, professional repairs are most likely required. Replacing the compressor yourself or searching for micro-leaks of freon at home is practically impossible and impractical. Call a technician for an accurate diagnosis.
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Why does the refrigerator work continuously, but not freezing?
This is a classic sign of a freon leak or a clogged capillary system. The compressor tries to compensate for the lack of cold by working hard, but the refrigerant does not circulate correctly. Repair is required with filter replacement and refilling.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not freeze?
For a short time - yes, so that the food in the freezer does not disappear. However, prolonged operation in this mode is dangerous for the compressor, which can burn out from overheating. It is better to turn off the device until the malfunction is eliminated.
How long does it take to defrost the refrigerator to check?
It takes at least 24 hours for the ice in the hidden cavities and the evaporator to completely melt. Defrosting for 2-3 hours is often insufficient, since ice may remain in the channels.
Does the position of the temperature regulator affect the freezer?
Yes. If the controller is mechanical, it can only control one camera or a general mode. In electronic models, incorrect sensor calibration can disrupt the operation of the entire system. Check the settings in the menu Settings.