The situation when you open the refrigerator door and there is room temperature inside can unsettle anyone. Food begins to spoil, the ice in the freezer melts, and a panicky desire arises to urgently call a technician or run to the store for new equipment. However, before taking radical measures, it is worth assessing the situation, since in many cases the problem is solved without expensive intervention.
Primary diagnosis will help to understand the scale of the disaster: the equipment has simply stopped working, or the malfunction is of a systemic nature. Lack of cold can be caused by either a banal power surge in the network or a complex freon leak. It is important not to ignore the first signs, such as extraneous noise or rare activation of the compressor, which often precede a complete breakdown.
In this article we will analyze the main reasons why refrigerator ceased to perform its functions, and draw up a clear action plan. You will learn to distinguish simple failures from serious breakdowns that require professional repairs, and, perhaps, save a significant amount on calling a specialist.
Initial check of power supply and settings
Before sinning to break the “internals” of the unit, you need to exclude the simplest and obvious reasons. It often happens that the refrigerator does not turn on does not work at all because the plug came out of the socket or there was a power failure. Check if the light inside the chamber lights up when the door is opened. If there is no light, the problem is clearly in the power supply.
The second important point is the thermostat settings. Someone in the household could accidentally move the control wheel or press an extra button on the electronic display. Make sure the temperature is set within the correct range. For the main chamber this is usually +2...+5°C, and for the freezer - -18°C.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice a burning smell or a melted wire near the outlet, immediately stop trying to turn on the equipment and call an electrician. Using faulty wiring can lead to a fire.
Sometimes the problem lies in the “Defrost” or “Vacation” mode, which could be activated accidentally. In this mode, the compressor does not operate for a long time. Reset the settings to factory settings by unplugging the device for 10-15 minutes. Rebooting the electronics Often helps eliminate software errors in the controller.
Problems with doors and seals
The tightness of the refrigerator compartment is the key to its efficiency work. If sealing rubber the door is worn out, dirty or deformed, cold air will constantly escape out. In this case, the compressor works non-stop, trying to compensate for losses, but the desired temperature is never achieved.
You can check the tightness of the seal in a simple way. Squeeze a piece of paper between the door and the body and try to pull it out. If the paper comes out easily and without resistance, it means the seal is broken. Also carefully inspect the rubber for cracks, tears or greasy deposits that prevent a tight fit.
☑️ Checking the tightness
In some cases, the door may not close tightly due to the fact that it is skewed or the contents of the shelves are in the way. Protruding food or improperly installed containers can create a gap. Adjusting the loops or simply redistributing the food often solves the problem.
Clogged capillary tube and drainage system
One of the common reasons why the refrigerator does not freezeis a clogged capillary tube or drainage system. This can happen due to moisture entering the system (if it was not properly evacuated during the previous repair) or due to clogging with oil and filter decay products.
Symptoms of capillary blockage often appear unevenly: the upper part of the freezer may be covered with ice, and the lower part - warm. Or the compressor runs very loudly and for a long time, trying to push the refrigerant through the plug. It is almost impossible to clean the capillary tube on your own without special equipment and skills.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor is humming, there is no cold | Clogging capillary | Call a technician, purge the system |
| Ice only at the evaporator | Lack of freon | Search for leaks, refill |
| Water inside the chamber | Drainage clogged | Cleaning the hole |
| The refrigerator turns off quickly | Thermostat malfunction | Replacing the sensor |
If the problem is in the drainage hole, which removes condensate, you can handle it yourself. It is located on the back wall of the main camera. Take a special wire brush or a soft syringe with warm water and carefully clean the channel. A common cause of blockage is mold or pieces of food that get into the drain.
Failure of the compressor and start relay
Compressor is The heart of the refrigerator, and its breakdown is the most serious and expensive problem. If the engine hums, clicks, but does not start, or turns on for a couple of seconds and immediately stalls, most likely the starting relay has failed or the compressor itself has jammed.
The starting relay is a small part that provides an impulse to start the engine. It often burns out due to power surges. You can replace it yourself if you know how to hold a screwdriver in your hands and know the model of your refrigerator. The cost of a new part is relatively low.
⚠️ Attention: If the compressor gets very hot (burns your hand) and does not start, do not try to hit it with a hammer. This can finally finish off the mechanism. Professional diagnostics are required.
In more complex cases, when the motor winding burns out or mechanical wear of the piston group occurs, the entire unit must be replaced. This is a labor-intensive process that includes soldering pipes, evacuating the system and filling refrigerant. You can’t do this without special equipment.
How to check the start relay?
Carefully remove the plastic casing from the side of the compressor. Disconnect the relay (it usually just plugs into the contacts). Shake it near your ear: if you hear a ringing sound (like a coin), it means that the core has broken off inside and the relay is faulty.
Freon leakage and a violation of the tightness of the circuit
Freon is the working fluid that circulates through the system and transfers heat. If a microcrack has formed in the circuit (for example, due to corrosion or mechanical damage during cleaning), the gas gradually evaporates. As a result, the refrigerator stops cooling, although the compressor may work properly.
Signs of a freon leak often appear gradually. First, the equipment begins to freeze worse, then the cold disappears completely. The rear grille (condenser) may develop bulges or, conversely, areas that remain cold while the rest of the grille is hot. A characteristic oily trace may also appear at the leak site, since freon circulates along with the oil.
It is impossible to independently find the leak site and solder the tube without a leak detector and a burner. Moreover, simply filling with gas without eliminating the cause will not give a long-term effect - freon will come out again through the same hole. A comprehensive repair is required, including searching for defects, soldering and vacuuming.
Failure of the No Frost system
In refrigerators with a system No Frost (without frost), cooling problems are often associated with a malfunction of the defrost heater, timer or defrost sensor. If the evaporator becomes overgrown with a “coat” of ice, air stops circulating through the chambers and the food stops cooling, although the evaporator itself may be icy.
To check this version, you need to defrost the refrigerator completely (leave it turned off with the doors open for a day). If after defrosting the equipment worked normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem returned, it means that the defrosting system is not functioning. The ice has again blocked the air channels.
Most often, the heating element (tubular electric heater), which is supposed to melt the ice on the evaporator, fails. Less often, a sensor breaks down that “does not see” that the heating needs to be turned on, or a timer that does not switch modes. Replacing these elements requires disassembling the back wall inside the freezer or refrigerator compartment.
⚠️ Attention: When defrosting the No Frost system, never use a knife, hair dryer or hot water to speed up the process. You can damage the plastic housing of the evaporator or puncture the tubes, which will lead to expensive repairs.
Frequently asked questions about cooling problems
Why does the refrigerator hum, but does not freeze?
This may indicate a compressor malfunction (it tries to start, but cannot), a clogged capillary tubes or freon leak. It is also worth checking whether the start relay is stuck.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if it does not cool?
For a short time - yes, to carry out diagnostics. But long-term operation of a faulty unit (especially if the compressor is running without stopping) can lead to its complete combustion and a fire hazard.
How long does it take to defrost the refrigerator to check?
For complete defrosting and drying of the internal mechanisms, especially in No Frost systems, it takes from 12 to 24 hours. The minimum time to reset an electronics error is 30 minutes.
Why did the refrigerator start to freeze after defrosting, and then stopped again?
This is a classic sign of problems with the defrosting system in No Frost models. The ice melted, air began to flow, but after a while the heater did not work again, and the channels were blocked by new ice.