The situation when food is cooled normally in the main chamber of the refrigerator, but in the freezer the temperature rises above normal, is one of the most common and alarming for owners of household appliances. This can lead to rapid spoilage of stocks of meat, fish and semi-finished products, so it is necessary to act quickly, but in cold blood. Often the reason lies not in the breakdown of an expensive compressor, but in a banal violation of operating rules or failures in the control system.
Before calling a technician or looking for the number of a service center, it is worth conducting an initial diagnosis. In most cases, especially if the equipment has been in use for more than 5-7 years, the problem is solved by simply defrosting or replacing the seal. However, ignoring the symptoms can lead to breakdown compressor, the repair of which can be comparable in cost to purchasing a new unit. In this material we will analyze the algorithm of actions from simple steps to complex diagnostics.
Primary diagnosis and exclusion of simple causes
The first step should always be to check the most obvious things. Often, users panic prematurely, not noticing that the freezer door was not tightly closed by children or pets. As a result, warm air came inside, and the unit simply did not have time to restore the temperature regime. It is also worth checking whether the temperature regulator is set to the “minimum” or “economy” position, which is typical for some models Indesit and Ariston.
Pay attention to the operating mode of the refrigerator. If you have recently defrosted it or unplugged it, it may take 4 to 12 hours to return to operating mode. During this period, the compressor works with increased load, but the cold has not yet accumulated in sufficient volume. If the equipment was working normally and suddenly stopped freezing, and everything is in order in the main chamber, this narrows the range of possible malfunctions.
It is important to listen to the operation of the unit. Does it make the usual hum? Does the fan work (if model No Frost)? The absence of noise may indicate problems with the start relay or the motor itself, while continuous operation without shutdowns indicates a freon leak or a malfunction of the thermostat.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the back wall of the refrigerator is swollen or feels hot to the touch in unusual places, immediately unplug the appliance. This may indicate critical overheating or a violation of refrigerant circulation.
Check the door for tightness. To do this, you can use a simple test with a sheet of paper: hold the sheet between the seal and the body and try to pull it out. If the paper is removed too easily without resistance, it means sealing rubber it is worn out or dirty and requires replacement or cleaning.
No Frost system problems and the need for defrosting
Owners of modern refrigerators with the system No Frost they often forget that even such units require periodic maintenance. If the freezer has stopped freezing, but the refrigerator is working, one of the main reasons may be the formation of a “snow coat” on the evaporator hidden behind the plastic panel. This occurs due to a malfunction of the defrost system.
When the layer of ice becomes too thick, it blocks the operation of the fan, which is supposed to drive cold air from the freezer to the main one, or simply interferes with heat transfer. As a result, the compressor hums non-stop, trying to build up the temperature, but there is no cold. In such cases, complete defrosting helps.
To carry out the procedure, you must:
- 🧊 Completely disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply.
- 🚪 Open the doors of all chambers and empty them of food.
- ⏳ Leave the unit to defrost for at least 24 hours (this is exactly how long it takes to thaw ice in hidden channels).
- 💧 Thoroughly wipe off any water that has formed and wipe the internal surfaces dry.
After turning on the refrigerator, let it run empty for 2-3 hours. If the problem was an ice jam, the temperature will return to normal. If the situation repeats after a day, it means that one of the elements of the defrost system has failed: defrost heating element, thermal relay or timer.
☑️ Actions for defrosting
Not try to chip the ice with a knife or other sharp objects. Damage to the evaporator will lead to an immediate release of freon and expensive repairs, which are often not economically feasible.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
The thermostat (thermostat) is the “brain” that commands the compressor to turn on or off. If this element fails, the refrigerator may “think” that the chamber is already cold enough and not start the cooling cycle, or, conversely, work endlessly. In models with electronic control, temperature sensors are responsible for this temperature sensors.
Symptoms of a thermostat malfunction often manifest themselves in the fact that the compressor either does not start at all or works non-stop, but does not produce cold. Double-compartment refrigerators with one compressor often have one thermostat that controls the temperature in the freezer. If it is “lying,” then the main refrigerator may not work correctly, but sometimes a temperature imbalance manifests itself precisely as a lack of cold in the freezer with a normal background at the top.
To diagnose a mechanical thermostat, you can try gently knocking on its body or turning the adjustment knob in different directions. If you hear a click and the compressor starts, the problem is in the contacts. Electronic sensors are checked with a multimeter for resistance, which should change depending on the temperature.
How to check a thermostat with a multimeter?
To check, you need to remove the thermostat, immerse its sensitive tube in water with ice (temperature about 0 degrees) and ring the contacts. If the resistance does not change or the circuit does not close/open, the part is faulty. In electronic models, the resistance of the sensor is checked: at room temperature it is usually several kOhms, and when cooled it changes sharply.
Replacing the thermostat is a procedure available to a home craftsman if there is access to the rear panel. However, in modern models LG or Samsung with electronic control, it may be necessary to reflash the board or replace the entire control module.
Freon leak and problems with the compressor
The most serious reason why the freezer does not freeze is a refrigerant leak (freon). Freon circulates through a system of tubes, picking up heat. If a microcrack appears in the circuit (often due to corrosion or mechanical damage), the gas escapes and cooling capacity drops. First, the far corner of the freezer stops freezing, then the cold disappears completely.
When there is a leak, the compressor can work constantly, trying to compensate for the lack of refrigerant, or turn on for short periods of time (if the thermal protection is triggered). A characteristic sign of a leak is a hot condenser (grid at the back) only at the beginning or, conversely, cold along the entire length, as well as the absence of a characteristic hiss when the system is punctured (which cannot be done on your own).
If the problem is in the compressor, then the symptoms may be as follows:
- 🔇 The unit hums, but does not start (problem with the starting relay).
- 🔥 The motor overheats greatly and turns off through the protective relay.
- 🔨 A metallic knock or clanging sound is heard inside the motor.
Diagnostics of the compressor and search for leaks require special equipment: pressure gauges, a vacuum pump and a leak detector. You can only visually inspect the tubes for oil stains on your own (freon often leaves along with the oil) and check the integrity of the wires.
⚠️ Attention: Filling the refrigerator with freon yourself is prohibited and dangerous. An incorrect amount of refrigerant or the presence of moisture in the system will lead to water hammer and final breakdown of the compressor.
Clogged capillary tube and valve malfunction
Two-chamber refrigerators with one compressor often use a solenoid valve that switches the freon flow between chambers. If this valve is stuck in the closed position, freon will not flow into the evaporator of the freezer, and it will stop freezing, although there will be cold in the main compartment.
Another common technical problem is a clogged capillary tube. Oil circulates inside the system, which over time can thicken or mix with breakdown products, forming a plug. Symptoms of a blockage are similar to a leak: the compressor works, the condenser is hot only up to a certain point, and then cold, there is no cold.
To eliminate the blockage, technicians use the method of pressing nitrogen under high pressure or replacing the filter-drier. At home, it is almost impossible to clean the capillary without the risk of damaging the thin-walled tubes.
It is also worth mentioning the problem of “oil breakdown”. If the refrigerator stood in a horizontal position for a long time (during transportation) and was immediately turned on, oil could get into the circuit and clog the capillary. In this case, sometimes long-term (up to 2-3 days) standing in an upright position helps, but this does not provide guarantees.
Comparative table of symptoms and solutions
To make it easier to navigate the possible causes, we have compiled a summary table that will help compare symptoms with probable malfunctions.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Required action |
|---|---|---|---|
| The refrigerator hums, but does not freeze | Freon leak or blockage | High | Call a technician to find a leak |
| The compressor does not turn on at all | Thermostat or start relay is faulty | Average | Replacing the thermostat or relay |
| There is ice in the freezer, no cold | Failure of the defrost system (No Frost) | Average | Defrost 24 hours, check the heating element |
| The freezer does not freeze, the refrigerator freezes | The solenoid valve is faulty | High | Replace the valve, refilling |
| A click is heard, then silence | Starting relay or compressor wedge | High | Checking the motor windings |
This table is for reference character. An accurate diagnosis can only be made by a specialist after opening the unit and measuring pressure and resistance.
Prevention and operating rules
To extend the life of the refrigerator and avoid situations when the freezer stops working, it is important to follow the operating rules. Regularly, at least once a year, completely defrost and wash the unit, even if you have a system No Frost. This will help avoid the formation of bacteria and excessive icing.
Monitor the condition of the seals. Wipe them with a soft, damp cloth to remove crumbs and sticky dirt. Once every six months, lubricate the rubber parts with silicone grease or glycerin to prevent them from drying out and cracking. This will keep the chamber sealed.
Do not load the refrigerator with hot foods. This creates excess moisture, which condenses on the walls and turns into ice, stressing the defrost system. Also, do not overcrowd the freezer: free space is needed for air circulation.
Ensure adequate ventilation at the back of the refrigerator. Move the unit at least 10 cm away from the wall to allow heat from the condenser to dissipate freely. Overheating of the rear wall is one of the common causes of premature wear of the compressor.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if the freezer does not freeze?
You can use the main chamber for a short time if it remains cold there, but store perishable foods in a non-working freezer is absolutely not allowed. Long-term operation of the refrigerator in this mode (with a constantly running compressor) will lead to its overheating and burnout of the windings.
How long does the refrigerator need to reach the temperature after defrosting?
Usually it takes from 2 to 6 hours to reach operating mode. At this time, you should not load the chamber with products, especially warm ones. If after 8-10 hours the temperature has not dropped to -18°C in the freezer, then there is a malfunction.
Why does ice freeze in the freezer, but the food melts?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system in models No Frost. Ice blocks the cold air supply channels, and it does not enter the chamber, remaining behind the wall. Defrosting and replacement of the heating element or sensor is required.
Is it dangerous to change the thermostat yourself?
Replacing a mechanical thermostat is relatively safe if you disconnect the device from the network. However, it is important to correctly install the sensing tube into the seat. An error in installation will lead to incorrect operation of the refrigerator.