Situation, when freezer compartment the food freezes properly, but the main compartment is at room temperature, this is one of the most common and insidious problems in the world of refrigeration technology. Users often perceive this as a partial breakdown, believing that since the freezer is functioning, then everything is fine with the unit itself, however, this misconception can lead to spoilage of a large amount of food and expensive repairs.
Modern models of refrigerators, be it Indesit, Atlant or premium Liebherr, they often use a single cooling system or specific refrigerant circulation, where a failure in one unit disrupts the temperature regime in only one of the chambers. Understanding the physics of the process will help you quickly navigate the nature of the malfunction before the technician arrives.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical, electrical and systemic reasons for the occurrence of such a temperature imbalance. You will learn how to carry out initial diagnostics with your own hands and what symptoms indicate a critical condition compressor or a freon leak.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear gurgling or hissing inside the housing, and the food in the freezer has begun to melt on the sides, immediately unplug the appliance from network to avoid overheating of the motor.
Problems with air circulation in the No Frost system
The most likely reason that the freezer freezesand the refrigerator is warm in modern models is a violation of the circulation of cold air. In systems No Frost cold is generated exclusively in the freezer compartment, and then driven by a fan into the upper chamber through special channels. If this flow is blocked, the cold simply does not reach the food.
Often the culprit is freezing of ice in the air ducts or on the evaporator itself, which physically blocks the passage of air masses. This may occur due to a malfunction of the defrost system when the heating element stops heating the evaporator to remove condensate. As a result, deflector or the channel is overgrown with a “fur coat”, and the fan drives air in the confined space of the freezer.
Another reason may be the failure of the fan itself. If its blades freeze or the motor winding burns out, forced circulation stops. In old models with a drip system there is no such problem, since cooling occurs through the wall, but in modern units Bosch or LG this is a normal situation.
- ❄️ The ice has completely blocked the outlet of the air duct between the chambers.
- 🌀 The cooling fan is frozen or jammed by a foreign object.
- 🔌 The fan motor has burned out or its power supply circuit has been broken.
- 🚪 The refrigerator door does not fit tightly, letting in warm, moist air that instantly freezes in the ducts.
To test this theory, just listen to the operation of the unit: if you don’t hear characteristic noise of the fan operation, although the compressor is humming, the problem most likely lies in the blowing system. Sometimes it helps to completely defrost the refrigerator within 24 hours, which will allow the ice in the channels to melt naturally.
Refrigerant leakage and problems with the compressor
If your refrigerator has a system Full No Frost or a combined cooling system, where each chamber is responsible for its own circuit or a separate one solenoid valve, then the situation may be more complicated. A common cause is a partial leak of refrigerant (freon). In this case, the gas pressure is enough to maintain a low temperature in a small volume of the freezer, but it is no longer enough for a large volume of the fridge compartment.
Under such conditions, the compressor works non-stop, trying to reach the set temperature, which leads to its severe overheating. If you touch the side walls of the unit while it is running, they may feel lukewarm or cold, although normally they should heat up evenly. This is a sure sign that freon has evaporated through a microcrack in the circuit.
In two-compressor models, such as some series Electrolux or Whirlpool, one of the compressors may fail. If the motor of the refrigerator compartment does not work, then it turns into an ordinary cabinet, while the freezer continues to freeze with its own unit. Diagnostics requires measuring the pressure in the system and checking the current strength on the motor windings.
⚠️ Attention: Independent refueling of the refrigerator with freon is impossible without special equipment and skills. An attempt to pierce the tube to “check” the gas will lead to moisture getting into the system and costly repairs.
An indirect sign of a leak can be the appearance of yellow oil spots on the back wall of the refrigerator in the area of the compressor or inside the chambers if the evaporator is built-in. The oil escapes along with the gas through the depressurization area, leaving traces.
Why can’t you ignore the operation of the compressor without stopping?
If the compressor operates without shutdown cycles, its resource is exhausted many times faster. Ultimately, this will lead to jamming of the piston group and the need to replace the entire unit, the cost of which is up to 70% of the price of a new refrigerator.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
Control electronics are the brain of the refrigerator, and if it receives incorrect data, then the commands will be erroneous. If thermostat or the air temperature sensor in the refrigerator compartment fails and “lies”, indicating that it is already cold there, the compressor simply will not turn on to cool this compartment. In this case, the freezer can be cooled according to the residual principle or through a separate circuit.
In mechanical models with one chamber and one regulator, this situation is rare, but is possible when the thermostat bellows tube is displaced. If the tube has moved away from the evaporator, it does not feel real cold and does not give a command to turn on, or vice versa - it keeps the valve closed. In models with electronic control defrost or evaporator sensors often fail.
The sensors are diagnosed using a multimeter by measuring their resistance at different temperatures. If the resistance readings do not correspond to the table of values for a specific model (for example, Samsung or Beko), the part must be replaced. Often the problem is solved by installing a new sensor, which is a relatively inexpensive repair.
- 🌡️ The temperature sensor shows false values, blocking the start of cooling.
- 🔧 The calibration of the thermostat is lost after a power surge in the network.
- 📉 Oxidation of contacts in the signal transmission circuit from the sensor to the control module.
- ❄️ Freezing of the capillary tube of the thermostat inside the housing.
It is worth noting that in some cases, a malfunction of the electronics may not be caused by a breakdown of the sensor, but by problems with the main control board. If errors appear on the display or indicators blink in an unusual mode, this is a direct signal that you need to check the control module.
Clogged capillary tube and filter-drier
One of the technical reasons why the freezer freezesbut the refrigerator does not exist is a clogged capillary tube or filter-drier. In the freon circulation system, these elements are responsible for throttling the flow and cleaning the refrigerant from moisture and debris. Over time, especially if the seal was broken during a previous repair, an ice plug may form inside or a paraffin deposit may accumulate.
A blockage most often occurs at the inlet to the evaporator of the refrigerator compartment. Freon circulates freely around the freezer circuit, creating cold there, but cannot pass further into the main compartment. As a result, we see a classic picture: the freezer is working in enhanced mode, and the refrigerator is warm. In this case, the compressor may operate with overload or shut down due to overheating.
Elimination of this malfunction requires professional intervention. The technician will need to depressurize the system, purge the circuit with nitrogen under high pressure, replace the filter drier and evacuate the system before refilling. It is impossible to carry out these operations on your own without a vacuum pump and a pressure gauge station.
Often the blockage is accompanied by a change in the sound of the compressor: it may become duller or intermittent. If you notice that the refrigerator has begun to operate in cycles with long pauses, during which it is silent and then suddenly turns on, this may indicate difficulties with the passage of refrigerant.
Comparative table of symptoms and causes
To make it easier for you to navigate the variety of possible breakdowns, we have systematized the main symptoms in the table. This will help narrow down the search for the problem before diagnosing.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Nature of compressor operation | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ice in freezer, the refrigerator is warm | Clogged air duct or defrost malfunction | Works without stopping | Average |
| The compressor is hot, there is no cold anywhere | Leakage freon or compressor failure | Works continuously or does not turn on | High |
| The refrigerator is silent, the light is on | Faulty thermostat or start relay | Does not turn on | Low |
| The fan is noisy or silent | Fan failure or ice on the blades | Works normally | Low |
| Yellow spots inside or outside | Oil leakage along with freon | Depends on the degree of leakage | High |
Analyzing table, you can see that the nature of the compressor operation is a key indicator. If it hums constantly, look for a leak or circulation problem. If it is silent, check the electrical system and sensors.
Self-diagnosis algorithm
Before calling a technician, you can carry out a number of safe manipulations that will help identify the cause or even eliminate it if the problem is simple. Remember that any actions inside the case require disconnecting the device from the power supply.
Start with a visual inspection and defrosting. If you haven't defrosted your refrigerator in a while, let it sit with the doors open for at least 24 hours. This will eliminate the option of a frozen air supply channel. After turning on the power, listen to see if cold has appeared in the main chamber.
Check the tightness of the door. Take a sheet of paper, clamp it with the door and try to pull it out. If the sheet comes out too easily, it means that the seal is worn out or the door is warped, and the cold simply leaves the chamber. Also check whether the products are loaded so that they block the ventilation holes.
☑️ Primary diagnostics
If simple methods did not help, a more in-depth check will be required. Use a thermometer to measure the actual temperature at the center of the chambers to confirm subjective sensations. It is also useful to check whether the light in the refrigerator compartment is on when the door is closed (to prevent heat from the lamp if it does not go out).
⚠️ Attention: Specifications and location of components may vary depending on the model. Always check the manufacturer's official instructions before disassembling the panels.
What to do if after defrosting the problem returns a week later?
If complete defrosting gave a temporary effect, but after 5-7 days the situation repeated itself, this is guaranteed to indicate a malfunction of the defrosting system. Most likely, the evaporator heating element has burned out, or the thermal relay or defrost sensor has failed. The ice again blocked the channel, and the cold stopped flowing into the chamber.
Is it possible to temporarily use the refrigerator in this mode?
You can only use a refrigerator where the main chamber does not work as a freezer, transferring all the food there. However, it is not recommended to operate the equipment like this for a long time: the compressor works to wear out, trying to cool a non-existent volume, which can lead to its complete failure.
Why does one chamber not freeze in a two-compressor refrigerator?
In such models, each chamber is responsible for its own independent circuit and compressor. If the refrigerator does not freeze, it means that its compressor, the thermostat of this chamber is faulty, or there is a leak in this circuit. The freezer works independently and properly.
How often do you need to defrost the No Frost system?
The No Frost i Frost Free systems do not require regular defrosting to remove ice, as this happens automatically. However, at least once a year it is recommended to turn off the appliance to sanitize and check the cleanliness of the drainage holes, which can become clogged with crumbs and mold.