The refrigerator does not cool the upper chamber, but the freezer freezes: what to do?

Have you opened the refrigerator, and the food in the upper compartment is warm or barely cool, although the freezer is working as usual? This problem occurs in 30% of cases of breakdowns of two-chamber refrigerators, and its causes can vary from simple fan clogging to serious compressor malfunctions. In this article we will analyze all possible scenarioswhy the refrigerator stopped cooling the upper chamber, but the freezer continues to freeze - from simple problems that you can fix yourself to complex defects that require the intervention of a specialist.

It is important to understand that the design of modern refrigerators (especially models No Frost and Frost Free) assumes general cooling system for both cameras. If the freezer is functioning, then the compressor and refrigerant are circulating - but somewhere along the way to the upper chamber there is a failure. We will dwell in detail on single-compressor and double-compressor systems, since the diagnostic algorithm for them is different. You will also find step-by-step instructions on how to check the thermostat, fan, evaporator and other components without special tools.

Let us immediately note: if your refrigerator is one of the models c electronic control (for example, Samsung RB37J5240SA, LG GA-B489YGQZ or ATLANT XM 4021-000), then some of the malfunctions may be associated with a failure of the control board. For mechanical models (for example, Biryusa 130 or Indesit DF 4180), thermostats or clogged capillary tubes are more often to blame. Don't miss the section with a unique table of symptoms for different types of refrigerators —it will help you narrow down the search for the problem.

1. Why the refrigerator does not cool from above, but the freezer works: common reasons

Before disassembling the refrigerator or calling a specialist, let's exclude the most obvious and easily removable reasons. In 40% of cases, the problem lies not in a breakdown, but in improper operation or external factors. Here's what you need to check first:

• 🔌 Power and settings. Make sure that the refrigerator is connected to the outlet (are the indicators on?), and the temperature in the upper chamber was not accidentally set to 0°C or MIN. In models with a display (for example Bosch KGN39XL30R), check whether the mode Vacation is activated - it turns off the cooling of the main chamber.
• 🚪 Door closure tightness. If the sealing rubber is torn or the door is skewed, warm air gets inside, and the compressor cannot cope. Carry out a test with a sheet of paper: squeeze it between the door and the body - if the sheet falls out, the seal requires replacement.
• 🧊 Freezing ice in the freezer. In systems No Frost excess ice can block the ventilation ducts, blocking the access of cold air to the upper chamber. Defrost the refrigerator for 10–12 hours, then check the operation.
• 📦 Overload with products. If the upper chamber is clogged to capacity, air circulation is disrupted. Remove excess and leave gaps between products.

If after these manipulations the problem remains, we proceed to diagnosing the internal components. Let's start with the most common culprit - blowing fan.

2. The blower fan does not work (for No Frost systems)

In refrigerators with a system No Frost (for example, Samsung RL38T6000SA, LG GA-B429SLGL), a fan is responsible for the distribution of cold, which drives air from the freezer into the main chamber. If it is broken or blocked by ice, the top will stop cooling and the freezer will continue to operate. How to check this?

Signs of a fan malfunction:

• ❄️ The freezer freezes too much (maybe even freezes).
• 🔇 The refrigerator has become quieter - there is no characteristic air noise.
• 🥶 The back wall of the upper chamber is not cooled (normally it should be cool).

How to diagnose:

1. Unplug the refrigerator and defrost it for 8-10 hours.
2. Remove the back panel in the freezer compartment (usually it is attached to latches or screws).
3. Check whether the fan blade rotates. If not, try turning it by hand. If it does not rotate or creaks, the fan is faulty.
4. Test the winding with a multimeter (the resistance should be in the range of 200–500 Ohms).

If the fan is blocked by ice, just defrost the refrigerator and clean the drainage hole (it is located under the evaporator). If the motor burns out, it will need replacement. The cost of a new fan for popular models (Samsung, LG, Indesit) is from 1,500 to 3,500 rubles.

3. Capillary tube clogged or freon leak

If the fan is working, but the upper chamber still does not cool, the problem may lie in refrigerant circulation system. The two most likely reasons:

1. The capillary tube is clogged. Over time, particles of oil, moisture or dirt accumulate in it, which blocks the flow of freon. As a result, the freezer gets cold, but the upper chamber does not.
2. Freon leak. If a microcrack appears somewhere in the circuit (most often in the soldering areas or on the evaporator), the refrigerant gradually leaks out. The freezer may still work, but the performance for both chambers is no longer enough.

How to recognize:

• 🕒 The refrigerator works without stopping (the compressor does not turn off).
• 🔥 Condenser (the grill at the back) does not heat up or heats up weakly.
• 💧 Oily stains have appeared on the floor under the refrigerator (a sign of a leak).

Remove the blockage or leak yourself almost impossible without special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauges, gas burner). If you suspect this malfunction, it is better to call a technician immediately. Average cost of repair:

⚠️ Attention: If you decide to charge freon yourself, remember that modern refrigerants (for example, R-600a or R-134a) require precise dosage. Overfilling or undercharging will lead to repeated breakdown of the compressor.

4. Failure of the thermostat or temperature sensor

In refrigerators with mechanical control (for example, ATLANT MHM 1705 or Stinol 102) the upper chamber is responsible for cooling thermostat. If it fails, the compressor either does not turn on at all, or works without stopping, but the cold does not flow in the required volume. In models with electronic control (Samsung RB30J3000WW, LG GA-B379SQDL) the culprit may be temperature sensor.

Signs of a malfunctioning thermostat:

• 🔄 The compressor turns on for 5-10 seconds and immediately turns off (relay clicks).
• 🌡️ The upper chamber is too warm, although the freezer is working normal.
• 🔧 When you turn the thermostat knob to position MAX nothing changes.

How to check the thermostat:

1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Remove the thermostat knob and protective casing (usually it is attached to one screw).
3. Find two wires going to the thermostat and remove them from the terminals.
4. Close the wires together (simulating a closed contact). If the compressor starts, the thermostat is faulty.

The cost of a new thermostat is from 800 to 2,500 rubles, depending on the model. For electronic refrigerators, it may be necessary to replace the sensor (price - 1,200–3,000 rubles). If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the diagnostics to a technician - an incorrect connection can damage the control board.

5. Problems with the control board (for electronic models)

In refrigerators with a display and touch control (Samsung Family Hub, LG InstaView, Bosch Serie 6) the electronic boardis responsible for the distribution of cold. If it fails, the following scenarios are possible:

• 📱 The display shows an error (for example, Er IF y Samsung or Er FF y LG).
• 🔄 The fan and compressor work chaotically (they turn on and off without logic).
• ❄️ The freezer freezes, but the upper chamber does not, although the settings have not been changed.

What to do:

1. Try resetting the settings to factory settings (usually this is done by holding the button Power Cooling or Super Freeze for 10 seconds).
2. Check whether the contacts on the board are oxidized (to do this you need to remove the back cover).
3. If the board is clearly damaged (darkened tracks, swollen capacitors), it will have to be replaced.

The cost of a new control board is from 4,000 to 12,000 rubles. In some cases, it can be repaired (resoldering capacitors or microcircuits), but this is a temporary solution. For models older than 7 years, replacing the board may not be practical - it is cheaper to buy a new refrigerator.

⚠️ Attention: If the refrigerator is under warranty, do not open the board yourself - this will void the warranty. Contact the brand's service center.

6. Compressor malfunction (in two-compressor models)

If your refrigerator is equipped with two compressors (for example, Liebherr CNef 4315 or Gorenje NRK 6191 MC), then a separate motor is responsible for the upper chamber. If it breaks, the freezer will work, but the refrigerator compartment will not. Signs of a compressor malfunction:

• 🔇 One of the compressors is not humming (normally both should turn on periodically).
• 🔥 The motor housing is too hot (you can check it with your hand).
• 💥 When turned on, clicks are heard, but the compressor does not start.

How diagnose:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and wait 10 minutes.
2. Turn it on again and listen to see if the upper chamber compressor starts.
3. If the motor does not start, check the starting relay (it is located next to the compressor.

The cost of replacing a compressor is from 6,000 to 15,000 rubles (including work and refilling freon). If the refrigerator is more than 10 years old, repairs may not be cost-effective.

What to do if the compressor hums but does not start?

This is a sign of an interturn short circuit or piston jamming. In the first case, the engine will heat up, but not rotate. In the second, metallic knocks are heard. In both cases, the compressor needs to be replaced.

7. Clogged drainage system and other rare causes

Sometimes the problem lies in little things that are not obvious at first glance. common but possible reasons:

• 🚰 Clogged drainage hole. Water does not leave the upper chamber, accumulates at the bottom and blocks air circulation. Clean the hole with a wire or rinse with warm water.
• 🔌 The defrosting heating element is malfunctioning. In systems No Frost The heating element is turned on periodically to melt the ice on the evaporator. If it burns out, the evaporator freezes and cold stops flowing into the upper chamber. Check with a multimeter (resistance should be 20–40 Ohms).
• 🔄 Failure in the defrosting system. In some models (Whirlpool, Electrolux) have a separate defrost timer. If it breaks, the refrigerator does not switch to cooling mode.
• 🧲 Magnetic interference. If there is a microwave or induction cooker next to the refrigerator, they may affect the operation of the electronic sensors.

If you have exhausted all options, but the problem remains, perhaps design defectis to blame. For example, in some batches of refrigerators Indesit DF 5200 W i Ariston Hotpoint CBA 3300 there was a factory defect in the capillary tube, due to which the upper chamber was not cooled well. In this case, all that remains is to contact the brand’s service center.

⚠️ Attention: Details of the design and diagrams of refrigerators may vary depending on the year of manufacture and modification. Before repairing, check the instructions for your model.

What to do if nothing helps?

If you have tried all the methods, but the refrigerator still does not cool the upper chamber, it's time to turn to professionals. Here's what you need to do:

1. Select a service center. Give preference to official brand partners (for example, for Samsung this Samsung Service, For LG — LG Electronics RussiaThe cost of diagnostics is higher (from 1,500 rubles), but the warranty on work is up to 2 years.
2. Prepare information. Write down the refrigerator model (located on the sticker inside or on the back), the year of purchase and symptoms of the malfunction. diagnostics.
3. Specify the cost. Ask to name the price for a technician’s visit and the estimated cost of repairs over the phone. In some cases, it is more profitable to buy a new refrigerator than to repair an old one.

Average prices for repairs in Moscow and the regions (2026):

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about the non-functioning upper chamber of the refrigerator

❓ Can the refrigerator not cool from above due to power surges?

Yes, especially if voltage surges frequently occur in your network. This can damage the control board or compressor. It is recommended to connect the refrigerator through a voltage stabilizer (for example, Resanta). ASN-1000 N/1-C or Stil IS550).

❓ How long does it take to defrost a No Frost refrigerator if the upper chamber does not work?

The minimum defrosting time is 8–10 hours If the ice on the evaporator is thick (more than 5. mm), may take up to 24 hours. Do not use a hair dryer or hot water to speed up the process - this may damage the plastic parts.

❓ Is it possible to temporarily use the refrigerator if only the upper chamber is not working?

Yes, but with reservations:

• Do not store perishable foods in the warm compartment (meat, fish, dairy products).
• Check the temperature periodically - if it rises higher +10°C, the risk of food spoilage increases.
• Do not leave the door open for a long time - this will speed up heating.

❓ Why does the upper chamber still not cool after replacing the thermostat?

Possible reasons:

• The thermostat is not connected correctly (check the diagram).
• The compressor or control board is faulty.
• There is air left in the system after replacement (required evacuation).
• The capillary tube is clogged (needs cleaning).

In this case, repeated diagnostics are required.

❓ How often should you defrost a No Frost refrigerator to avoid problems?

Manufacturers claim that refrigerators No Frost do not need defrosting. However, in practice, it is recommended to carry out preventive defrosting. every 6-12 months. This helps:

• Remove plaque and mold in the drainage system.
• Prevent fan freezing.
• Extend the life of the sealing rubber.