Why the refrigerator is cracking: we analyze all the sounds from clicks to creaks

You wake up at night from a sharp cracking sound from the kitchen - and again that sound. The refrigerator, which operates almost silently during the day, turns into a source of mysterious clicks, crackles and even squeaks at night. The question immediately arises: is this normal or is it time to call a specialist?

In fact, 90% of refrigerator sounds this is the normal operation of his systems. But in 10% of cases, a crackling noise indicates a malfunction that can lead to compressor failure, freon leakage, or food spoilage. In this article we will analyze all possible sources of crackling - from harmless to critical, teach you to distinguish them by the nature of the sound and tell you when you can do it yourself, and when you urgently need to unplug the refrigerator from the network.

We will pay special attention to modern models with system No Frost, inverter compressors and electronic control - their “sound behavior” is very different from old refrigerators. You will also find a unique diagnostic table for the type of cracklingwhich will help to more accurately determine the cause without disassembling the equipment.

1. Normal sounds: when the cracking is not dangerous

First rule: The refrigerator cannot operate absolutely silently. Even models marked “Super Silent” produce sounds in the range of 35–45 dB (for comparison: a human whisper is 30 dB, a quiet conversation is 50 dB). Let's look at what noises are considered normal and why they occur.

The most common sound is relay clicks (starting or protective). This small device is responsible for starting the compressor and turning it off when it overheats. The click is heard at the following moments:

• 🔹 Compressor start —the relay closes the contacts, supplying current to the motor. The sound is short, metallic, similar to the click of a switch.
• 🔹 Compressor stops - the relay opens the circuit to prevent overheating. May be accompanied by a slight hum.
• 🔹 Protection activation — if the compressor overheats (for example, due to long operation in the heat), the forced relay will turn it off. The click will be louder than usual.

In models with No Frost a crack is added from defrost timer. This mechanism turns on the heater every 8-12 hours to remove frost from the evaporator. The sound resembles quiet clicks or crackling of plastic - it is often confused with a fan malfunction.

2. Plastic cracking: why the refrigerator “shoots”

Many owners complain of sharp pops or crackling sounds, similar to gunshots. These sounds usually come from case or internal plastic elements and are associated with temperature changes. Here are the main reasons:

• 🏠 Thermal expansion of materials - when cooled, the plastic contracts, and when heated (for example, when the compressor is turned off) it expands. The first 1–2 weeks of operation are especially noticeable in new refrigerators.
• ❄️ Ice in the drainage system - if the drainage hole is clogged, the water freezes and makes a cracking noise when it thaws. A common problem in models Bosch and Siemens with the system LowFrost.
• 🔄 Deformation of the door seal - the rubber seal can “stick” to the body when closing, and make a pop when opening. This is not critical, but over time it can lead to wear of the seal.

How to reduce plastic cracking:

1. Check whether the refrigerator is touching the walls or furniture - vibration amplifies sounds. Optimal gap: 5–10 cm on all sides.
2. If the cracking comes from the seal, wipe it with silicone grease (for example, WD-40 Specialist).
3. In models with No Frost clean the drainage hole with a cotton swab once every 6 months.

3. compressor: when a cracking noise is dangerous

If the crackling is accompanied vibration, compressor overheating or cooling failures, this may indicate a motor malfunction. Let's consider the most risky symptoms:

Compressors in refrigerators older than 10 years are especially vulnerable (for example, Stinol 103, Biryusa 18). with inverter compressors (LG Inverter Linear, Samsung Digital Inverter), breakdowns are less common, but their diagnosis is more difficult due to electronic control.

How to check a compressor without tools?

If the compressor clicks but does not start, try lightly tapping its body with a wooden screwdriver handle. If after that. the motor will start working - the problem is the piston is jammed (a temporary solution, but the refrigerator needs to be repaired).

⚠️ Attention: If the compressor overheats (the housing is hot, you cannot hold your hand for more than 3 seconds), immediately turn off the refrigerator. Further work may cause the start relay to fire.

4. No Frost system: sources of squeaks and crackling

In refrigerators with the system No Frost (or Frost Free), the crackling sound is often associated with the operation of the fan. This element is responsible for the circulation of cold air and can make sounds for several reasons:

• ❄️ Icing of the blades - if the fan increases. ice, it begins to touch the body, producing a creaking or crackling sound. A common problem in models is Indesit DF 5201 And Atlant XM 6025-031.
• 🔧 Bearing wear - over time, lubrication in the bearing dries out, and the fan begins to “creak” when rotating. The sound intensifies when the door is opened.
• 🐭 Ingress of foreign objects - pieces of cling film, labels or even insects can block the blades.

How to diagnose the problem:

1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Remove all food from the freezer.
3. Remove the back panel of the freezer compartment (in most models it is secured with latches).
4. Check the fan blades for ice or debris. If there is ice, defrost the refrigerator for 12–24 hours.

If the squeak remains after defrosting, most likely the bearing or the entire fan needs to be replaced. In models Samsung RL-60 and LG GA-B489 1,500–2,500 rubles, and replacement will cost 3,000–5,000 rubles (depending on the region).

5. Electronic modules: crackling noise from the control board

In refrigerators with electronic control (Liehberr, Beko, Haier), the source of the crackling noise can be control board. This is due to:

• 🔌 Problems with capacitors — swollen or leaking capacitors make clicking noises when charging/discharging.
• 🔥 Microcracks on the board tracks —microdamage may appear due to changes in temperature or humidity, causing sparking.
• 📡 Interference from the surge protector —if the refrigerator is connected through an extension cord or a cheap filter, this can cause clicks in the power supply.

How to check board:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and remove the cover of the electronic module (usually located on the top or back).
2. Inspect the board for the presence of darkened areas, swollen capacitors or traces of burning.
3. Smell the board - if you smell a burning smell plastic, it needs to be changed.

Repairing the board will cost 2,000–6,000 rubles, and replacement will cost 5,000–12,000 rubles. In some cases, it is cheaper to buy a used refrigerator of the same model at Avito or Yule and use it as a donor of spare parts.

⚠️ Attention: If a crackling sound from the electronic module is accompanied flickering of the display or spontaneous shutdown of the refrigerator, do not try to repair the board yourself. Incorrect soldering can lead to a short circuit.

6. Drainage system: gurgling and crackling of water

Sounds similar to gurgling or crackling of water are usually associated with drainage system. In normal mode, condensate flows through a special channel into a container on the compressor and evaporates. But if the system is clogged, the water freezes and makes characteristic sounds when thawing.

Causes of clogged drainage:

• 🍂 Accumulation garbage —crumbs, food particles or dust block the hole.
• 🧊 Formation of an ice plug —if the refrigerator has not been defrosted for a long time, ice can block the drainage channel.
• 🦠 Mold or bacteria —in the humid environment of the drainage, microorganisms often multiply, forming a mucous coating.

How to clean the drainage:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and remove all food from the bottom (there is usually a drainage hole located there).
2. Take a flexible wire or a special brush for cleaning the drainage (sold in hardware stores).
3. Gently push the wire into the hole, rotating it. If resistance is felt, this is a blockage.
4. Rinse the drainage with warm water with the addition of vinegar (1:1) to disinfect.

In refrigerators Atlant i Nord the drainage hole is often located under the vegetable drawer. In models Samsung i LG it may be hidden behind a special plug in the back of the chamber.

7. External factors: vibration, socket, floor

Sometimes the source of the crackling noise lies not in the refrigerator itself, but in its surroundings. Here's what's worth checking:

• 🔌 Unstable voltage in the network — if the voltage in the outlet fluctuates, this can cause clicks from the relay or transformer (if the model has one). Use a voltage stabilizer.
• 🏗️ Uneven floors —if the refrigerator is tilted, the vibration from the compressor increases and the body may crack. Use adjustable feet.
• 🪟 Drafts or direct sunlight - sudden changes in temperature cause the plastic to expand/contract with a bang.
• 🔊 Connection with other objects - if the refrigerator touches a wall, pipes or furniture, the vibration becomes loud creaking.

How to eliminate external causes:

1. Connect the refrigerator through surge protector with protection against power surges.
2. Check the floor level with a building level. If there is misalignment, adjust the legs of the refrigerator.
3. Make sure that the back of the refrigerator does not touch the wall. The minimum gap is 5 cm.
4. If the refrigerator is located next to a radiator or window, move it to a cooler place.

⚠️ Attention: If a cracking noise appears after moving or transporting the refrigerator, check the compressor mounting. In some models (Indesit BIAA 13, Beko CN 325120), the motor is mounted on springs, which can move during transportation.

8. When to call a technician: a checklist for making a decision

Not every crack requires professional repair. Here checklistwhich will help determine whether you can handle it yourself or it’s time to call a service center:

If at least one item from the list matches your situation, unplug the refrigerator and contact specialist. The average cost of diagnostics is 1,000–1,500 rubles, and repairs will cost depending on the problem:

When choosing a service center, pay attention to:

• 🛠️ Work warranty (minimum 6 months).
• 📋 Availability of original spare parts for your model.
• ⭐ Reviews on Yandex.Maps or Google (especially pay attention to complaints about repeated breakdowns).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about cracking in the refrigerator

❓ The refrigerator only cracks at night. Is this normal?

Yes, this is normal. At night, the compressor works harder due to the lack of door opening and a more stable room temperature. Relay clicks and plastic crackles as they cool may seem louder than they are otherwise quiet. If the refrigerator works normally during the day, there is no need to worry.

❓ After defrosting, the refrigerator began to crack more loudly. What to do?

Probably, during defrosting, water got into the drainage system, which then froze. Try:

1. Defrost the refrigerator again for 12 hours.
2. Clean the drainage hole with wire.
3. Check whether the drain tube touches the compressor (sometimes it moves after defrosting).

If there is no cracking noise disappeared, check the fan - perhaps there is ice left on its blades.

❓ The crackling sound is accompanied by vibration of the entire refrigerator. What is this?

This is a sign of compressor malfunction or its fastenings. Possible reasons:

• Motor mounting springs are loose.
• Wear of compressor shock absorbers.
• Piston jamming in the cylinder.

Turn off the refrigerator and check whether the compressor is touching the housing or tubes. If the vibration remains, call a technician.

❓ Is it possible to replace the starting relay yourself?

Yes, this is one of the few parts that you can replace yourself. You will need:

1. Buy exactly the same relay (the part number is indicated on the body of the old one).
2. Turn off the refrigerator and remove the compressor cover.
3. Disconnect the wires from the relay (take a photo of the connection diagram!).
4. Remove the old relay and install a new one.

The cost of the relay is from 500 to 1,500 rubles. The main thing is not to mix up the wires when connecting!

❓ Why does the new refrigerator crack more loudly than the old one?

Modern models are equipped with:

• More powerful compressors (for example, inverter ones), which start more often.
• Thin plastic walls (to save weight), which resonate more strongly.
• Electronic modules with relays, which click when switching modes.

If the crackling sound is not accompanied by malfunctions, this is not a defect. Manufacturers (Liehberr, Beko) even indicate in the instructions that relay clicks and cracking of plastic are normal.