The refrigerator does not cool, but the freezer works: 7 reasons and what to do

Have you opened the refrigerator, but the food in the main compartment is warm, while the freezer continues to freeze properly? This problem occurs in 15–20% of two-chamber refrigerators, regardless of the brand - be it Indesit, Samsung, Atlant or LG. Most often, it is not a compressor breakdown or freon leak that is to blame, but simple failures in the cold circulation system or electronics. Let's figure out why this happens and what can be done without calling a technician.

The symptoms of a malfunction are usually obvious: the temperature in the refrigerator compartment rises to +10...+15°C, while in the freezer it remains −18°C and below. Sometimes the problem is accompanied constant operation of the compressor (it almost never turns off) or, conversely, too infrequently turns on. In 80% of cases, the cause can be identified on your own - you don’t even need to disassemble the refrigerator.

Before you panic and take the equipment to a service center, check a few key points. Perhaps it's a settings issue or a minor problem that you can fix in 10 minutes. And if repairs are required, we will tell you which parts most often fail and how much it will cost.

1. Clogged capillary tube: why the refrigerator “forgot” to cool

The capillary tube is a thin copper channel through which the refrigerant (freon) flows from the condenser to the evaporator. If it becomes clogged freon circulation is disrupted, and the cold stops flowing into the refrigerator compartment. The freezer continues to work, because its evaporator is located closer to the compressor - the refrigerant “reaches” it, but is not pushed further.

Signs of a clogged capillary:

• 🔹 The compressor works without stopping or turns on too much often
• 🔹 The condenser (the grill at the back of the refrigerator) is hot, but the cold does not enter the chamber
• 🔹 The freezer is freezing, but the refrigerator compartment is warm or slightly cool

What to do? It is impossible to clean the capillary tube on your own - for this you need a special tool (hydraulic press) and experience. If you are sure that the problem is a blockage, you will have to call a specialist. The average cost of repairs is from 3,500 to 6,000 rubles (depending on the model and region).

Attention! Do not try to clean the tube with wire or blow it with a compressor - this can lead to damage to the system and leakage of freon.

2. Malfunction of the temperature regulator (thermostat) of the refrigerator compartment

The temperature regulator is a sensor that controls the temperature in the refrigerator compartment and sends a signal to the compressor to turn on/off. If it breaks, the compressor may simply “not know” that it needs to cool the refrigerator compartment.continuing to freeze only the freezer.

How to check the thermostat:

1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Remove the protective casing inside the chamber (usually it is located next to the lamp).
3. Find the thermostat - this is a small box with a tube attached to the evaporator.
4. Test the contacts with a tester: at room temperature they should be closed.

If the contacts are not close or close randomly - the thermostat is faulty. Replacing it will cost 1,500–3,000 rubles (including the work of a specialist). For models Samsung and LG with electronic control, it may be necessary to replace the control board (cost - from 5,000 rubles).

Important: In refrigerators with a system No Frost the thermostat is often combined with a defrost timer. If this is the problem, the freezer will also stop freezing over time.

How to temporarily bypass a faulty thermostat?

If the thermostat is broken and repairs are postponed, you can connect the compressor directly, bypassing the sensor. However, this is dangerous: without temperature control, the compressor will run continuously and may burn out. Use this method only as a last resort and do not leave the refrigerator unattended.

3. Freon leak: why the freezer works but the refrigerator does not

Freon is a refrigerant that circulates through the system and removes heat. If it leaks (for example, due to corrosion of tubes or mechanical damage), the refrigerator compartment stops coolingwhile the freezer still maintains the temperature for some time due to freon residues.

Signs of a leak:

• 🔧 The compressor works, but does not turn off
• 🔧 The condenser (rear grill) is cold, although it should be warm
• 🔧 There are oily spots on the floor under the refrigerator (freon is mixed with oil)
• 🔧 The freezer does not freeze well or works intermittently

What should I do? A freon leak cannot be eliminated on your own - it is required soldering the tubes, evacuating the system and charging with new refrigerant. The average cost of repairs is from 4,000 to 8,000 rubles. If the leak occurs due to corrosion of aluminum tubes (a common problem in Atlant i Biryusa), the technician may recommend replacing them with copper ones.

⚠️ Attention! Freon is harmless to humans, but when it leaks, oil from the compressor gets into the air. If you smell a chemical smell, ventilate the room and unplug the refrigerator.

4. No Frost fan failure: cold does not enter the chamber

In refrigerators with a system No Frost the fan is responsible for circulating cold air. If it breaks the freezer continues to freeze (since the evaporator is inside it), and the refrigerator compartment remains warm, the cold simply does not reach it.

How to check the fan:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from network.
2. Remove all food from the freezer.
3. Remove the back panel of the freezer (usually it is secured with latches or screws).
4. Try to turn the fan blades by hand - they should rotate easily, without squeaking.
5. Connect the refrigerator to the network and listen: if the fan does not make noise, it does not work.

Causes of fan failure:

• 🌀 Icing of the blades (due to a malfunction of the defrost system)
• 🌀 Wear of bearings or motor
• 🌀 Ingress of foreign objects (for example, pieces of food)

The cost of replacing a fan is from 2,000 to 4,500 rubles. If the problem is icing, you may also need to replace defrost timer or evaporator heating element (another +2,000–3,500 rubles).

5. Clogged drainage hole: an indirect cause of lack of cold

If the drainage hole (through which condensation drains) is clogged, water begins to accumulate under the vegetable boxes. This leads to icing of the evaporator and disruption of heat transfer. As a result, the refrigerator compartment stops cooling, and the freezer operates normally.

How to clean the drainage:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the mains.
2. Find the drainage hole (usually it is located on the back wall refrigerator compartment, under the evaporator).
3. Take a cotton swab or soft wire and carefully clean the hole.
4. Rinse the drainage with warm water using a syringe.

⚠️ Attention! Do not use sharp objects (needles, knitting needles) to clean the drainage - they can damage the plastic tubes.

If the problem remains after cleaning, check condensate drain tube —it may be pinched or cracked. In this case, it will need to be replaced (cost - from 1,000 rubles).

Check whether the light inside the chamber is on (if not, there is an electrical problem)

Make sure that the door closes tightly (try a piece of paper - it should hold on)

Listen to whether the compressor is working (it should turn on/off periodically)

Estimate the temperature of the condenser (the back grill should be warm, but not hot)

-->

6. Control board failure: when the electronics go crazy

In modern electronically controlled refrigerators (Samsung RL-60, LG GA-B489, Bosch KGE39XL40), the control board is responsible for the distribution of cold. If it fails the compressor can only work for the freezer, ignoring the refrigerator compartment.

Signs of a board malfunction:

• 📱 The display shows an error (for example, E1, FF or rH)
• 📱 The refrigerator randomly turns on/off
• 📱 The temperature in the chambers does not correspond to the set values
• 📱 The control buttons do not respond or work with a delay

What to do? The control board is the “brain” of the refrigerator, and it is not recommended to repair it yourself. The cost of replacement is from 5,000 to 12,000 rubles (depending on the model). In some cases it helps reflashing (about 3,000 rubles), but this is a temporary solution.

If the refrigerator is under warranty, do not try to repair the board yourself - this will void the warranty.

7. The door seal is broken: the cold goes to the left

If the rubber seal on the refrigerator door is worn out or is damaged warm air constantly penetrates inside, and the compressor does not have time to cool the chamber. The freezer continues to freeze, since its door is sealed.

How to check the seal:

• 🚪 Close the door and insert a sheet of paper between it and the body.
• 🚪 If the sheet pulls out easily, the seal is faulty.
• 🚪 Inspect the rubber band for cracks, tears or deformations.

What to do? If the seal is simply dirty, it can be removed. clean with warm water and soap and lubricate with silicone grease. If the rubber is torn or has lost elasticity, it needs to be replaced (cost - from 1,500 to 3,000 rubles). For models Indesit and Atlant seals are often sold complete with fasteners. data-i="170">Some "masters" advise heating the seal with a hairdryer to restore its shape. This is a temporary solution, which can worsen the problem - the elastic will become even more fragile.

⚠️ Attention! Some “masters” advise heating the seal with a hairdryer to restore its shape. This is a temporary solution that may make the problem worse - the elastic will become even more fragile.

Comparison of the causes and cost of repairs

Frequent questions about non-working ones. refrigerator

Can the refrigerator not cool due to overload of food?

Yes, if the refrigerator compartment is full of food tightly and without gapsthe air circulation is disrupted and the temperature rises. This is especially true for models with No FrostTry to unload the chamber and check through. 2–3 hours.

Also check whether food is blocking the ventilation holes (usually they are located on the back wall).

Why did the refrigerator cool worse after defrosting?

Probable reasons:

1. After defrosting, the fan did not turn on (for models No Frost).
2. During defrosting, the evaporator tubes were damaged (if sharp objects were used).
3. The shelves or drawers were installed incorrectly, blocking the flow of cold air.

Turn off the refrigerator at 10-15 minutes, then turn it on again. If the problem persists, check the fan and evaporator.

Is it worth repairing a refrigerator that is older than 15 years?

Economically, this is usually not feasible The cost of repairs (for example, replacing a compressor or control board) can reach 10,000–15,000 rubles, which is comparable to the price of a new entry-level refrigerator (Atlant, Biryusa).

An exception is if the refrigerator is a rare model or has a large volume (for example, Side-by-Side). In this case, repairs may be justified.

Is it possible to use a refrigerator if the freezer is working and the refrigerator is working? no?

Short-term (1-2 days) - yes, but with reservations:

• 🥩 Store perishable foods (meat, fish, dairy) only in the freezer.
• 🥬 Move vegetables and fruits to a cool place (for example, on the balcony, if it's not hot outside).
• 🚫 Do not leave the refrigerator door open - this will speed up the spoilage of food.

Prolonged use in this mode will lead to overload compressor and its failure.

How often do you need to defrost the refrigerator to avoid such problems?

Depends on the type of system:

• 🔄 Drip system (regular refrigerators) - once every 6-12 months.
• ❄️ No Frost - once every 1-2 years (for prevention).

If the refrigerator is an entry-level one (for example, Biryusa 106 or Atlant MHM-1708), defrost it more often - every 4-6 months. This will prevent icing of the evaporator and clogging of the drainage.