Copper is one of the most valuable metals in household appliances, and refrigerators are no exception. If you are collecting non-ferrous scrap or just want to understand the structure of your unit, knowledge of where is copper concentratedwill help save time and effort. In old Soviet models, the share of copper could reach 1.5–2 kg per refrigerator, and in modern ones - from 300 to 800 grams, depending on the type of cooling system and compressor power.
But not all parts are the same valuable: somewhere copper is hidden in thick tubes, and somewhere in thin wires that are difficult to remove without a special tool. This article will help you figure out which components should be dismantled first, and which ones will not justify the effort. We will also tell you how to distinguish copper from aluminum or brass, so as not to get into trouble when handing over scrap.
⚠️ Attention: Working with refrigeration systems requires caution! Freon may remain in the compressor and pipes; contact with the skin or inhalation of vapors is hazardous to health. If you are not confident in your skills, contact equipment recycling specialists.
Before you begin disassembling, make sure that the refrigerator is unplugged for at least 24 hours - this will minimize the risk of electric shock from the capacitors. Also prepare tools: wire cutters, a hacksaw, pliers and multimeter to check the voltage on the boards.
1. Compressor: the main “copper well”
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator, and this is where it is concentrated up to 60% of all copper in the unit. Inside the compressor housing there are:
- 🔧 Electric motor winding -thick copper wires (diameter 1–2 mm) wound around the core. In Soviet models (Biryusa, ZIL), their weight could reach 1 kg.
- 🔌 Terminals and connecting wires - thinner cores, but they are easy to separate from windings.
- 🔄 Suction and discharge tubes —usually copper or brass, with a diameter of 6–12 mm.
To get to the copper, the compressor must be opened. To do this:
- Disconnect the compressor from the system (cut the tubes with wire cutters 10-15 cm from the body).
- Remove the top cover by unscrewing 3-4 bolts.
- Carefully remove the electric motor - the winding will be immediately visible.
⚠️ Attention: In compressors of inverter refrigerators (LG, Samsung with technology Linear Compressor), copper is often replaced with aluminum to reduce weight. Check the color of the wires: copper is red-brown, aluminum is silver.
If the winding is soldered to the control board, use a soldering iron with a power of at least 100 W to disconnect it without damage. Thin wires from the terminals can be cut off with wire cutters, leaving 2-3 cm for ease of delivery to the collection point.
2. Condenser (radiator on the back wall)
The condenser is a coil of tubes, usually located at the back of the refrigerator. In old models (Minsk, Orsk) it is completely copper, in new ones it is often combined (copper + aluminum). It contains up to 20–30% of total copper in the refrigerator.
How to determine the material of the tubes:
- 🔍 Color: copper over time oxidizes and becomes greenish, aluminum remains silver.
- 🔨 Weight: copper tubes are noticeably heavier than aluminum tubes with the same diameter.
- 🧲 Magnet: copper is not magnetic, aluminum is not either, but if it attracts weakly, it there may be a steel braid.
To extract copper:
- Disconnect the condenser from the compressor and evaporator (cut the tubes).
- Remove the fastening plates (usually on rivets or bolts).
- Cut the coil into pieces of 30–50 cm - this is more convenient for transportation.
In modern refrigerators (Indesit, Atlant), the condenser is often hidden under a plastic casing. To get to it, you will have to remove the back panel by unscrewing 6-8 screws.
What to do if the tubes are stuck?
If the tubes are not separated from the compressor or evaporator, use gas burner to locally heat the welding area. Heat the area to 200-250°C (until the solder melts) and carefully separate the parts. Wear gloves and safety glasses!
3. Evaporator: copper in the “freezer”
The evaporator is the tubes inside the freezer or refrigerator through which freon circulates. In models with the system No Frost the evaporator is hidden behind a plastic case and is blown by a fan, and in drip refrigerators it is open (visible as a grille on the back wall).
The amount of copper here varies:
- 🍧 Soviet refrigerators (Saratov, Donbass): up to 500 g of copper in the evaporator.
- ❄️ No Frost (Beko, Liebherr): 200–300 g, often in combination with aluminum.
- 💧 Drip systems: 300–400 g, the tubes are thinner, but longer.
To remove copper:
- Remove the internal shelves and back panel of the camera (you will have to remove the fan). No Frost the fan will have to be removed).
- Have a snack tubes at the inlet and outlet of the evaporator.
- Carefully remove the coil, being careful not to bend the tubes (damaged areas are more difficult to pass).
⚠️ Attention: In evaporators No Frost often use aluminum plates with copper tubes inside. It is almost impossible to separate them without special equipment - sell such an evaporator entirely as “copper in insulation”.
4. Electrical wiring and control boards
In wires and boards. is contained up to 5–10% of total copper in the refrigerator, but its extraction requires patience. Main sources:
- 🔌 Power cable - 3–5 meters of copper wire with a cross section of 0.75–1.5 mm².
- 📱 Control board —thin tracks and connectors (in modern models they are often replaced with aluminum).
- 💡 Sensor and lamp wires —short sections, but there are a lot of them.
How to more efficiently collect copper:
- Cut off all the wires at the base, leaving 2-3 cm for easy stripping.
- Carefully unsolder large connectors from the control board (use tin pump or braid).
- Small tracks should not be cleaned - their mass will not justify the time spent.
In refrigerators with a display (Samsung Family Hub, LG InstaView), the boards contain more copper, but they are often coated with a protective varnish. To remove it, use solvent 646 or acetone, but work in a well-ventilated area!
Check the absence of voltage with a multimeter|Use a tool with insulated handles|Do not cut live wires|Collect scraps in a separate container-->
5. Capillary tube and filter drier
The capillary tube is a thin copper channel (diameter 0.6–1.2 mm) connecting the condenser and evaporator. Despite its small diameter, its length can reach 2–4 meters, which gives up to 100–150 g of copper. The filter drier (small cylinder next to the compressor) also contains a copper winding.
Extraction features:
- 🔍 The tube is often soldered to other elements - use a soldering iron or torch for separation.
- ⚖️ The weight of copper in the capillary tube is small, but it is easy to separate it from the insulation (if any).
- ♻️ The filter drier can be cut off with a grinder, but freon may remain inside - do not inhale dust!
In refrigerators with system Frost Free the capillary tube is often hidden under thermal insulation. To find it, follow the path from the compressor to the evaporator, carefully removing the foam or mineral wool.
| Refrigerator assembly | Copper content (g) | Difficulty of removal | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compressor (winding) | 500–1200 | Medium | Requires opening the case |
| Condenser (coil) | 300–800 | Light | Can be combined (copper + aluminum) |
| Evaporator | 200–500 | Complex | B No Frost often with aluminum plates |
| Capillary tube | 50–150 | Light | Long but thin |
| Wires and boards | 50–200 | Medium | Soldering required |
6. How to distinguish copper from other metals: practical tips
A common mistake for beginners is to confuse copper with brass or aluminum. Here's how to recognize them:
Color and shine:
- 🟤 Copper: red-brown, over time becomes covered with a green coating (patina).
- 🟡 Brass: yellow, shiny, similar to gold.
- ⚪ Aluminium: silver, matte, easily scratched.
Physical properties:
- 🔨 Hardness: copper is soft (bends with a fingernail), aluminum is even softer, brass is harder.
- ⚖️ Weight: copper is 3 times heavier than aluminum with equal volume.
- 🔥 Melting: copper melts at 1085°C, aluminum - at 660°C.
For an accurate check, use reagent for copper (for example, an ammonia solution - copper will turn blue) or multimeter in the resistance test mode: copper has the minimum among these metals.
⚠️ Attention: At scrap collection points, copper is accepted at different prices depending on purity:
- Pure copper (without insulation, solder): maximum price.
- Copper insulation: the price is 10–20% lower.
- Brass or copper with impurities: the price is 2-3 times lower.
7. Legal aspects: is it possible to sell copper from a refrigerator?
From a legal point of view, extracting copper from your own refrigerator is not prohibited, but there are nuances:
- ♻️ Disposal of freon: By law, freon must be disposed of by a certified organization. If you simply release it into the atmosphere, this is fraught with a fine (up to 2000 rubles for individuals).
- 📄 Documents: When delivering a large amount of copper (more than 50 kg), collection points may require a passport and a sales contract.
- 🚫 Prohibited actions: Dismantling abandoned refrigerators on the street or removing them from landfills without permission is equivalent to theft.
If you hand over copper in a large city, choose collection points with a license for working with non-ferrous metals. In small localities, informal buyers often operate, but their prices are 15–30% lower.
⚠️ Attention: In some regions, local rules for the disposal of household appliances apply. For example, in Moscow and St. Petersburg, you can be fined 5,000–10,000 rubles for transporting a refrigerator to a landfill without dismantling the freon.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about copper in the refrigerator
How much copper can be obtained from a refrigerator Stinol 101 (1995)?
The model Stinol 101 contains about 1.2–1.5 kg of copper, from them:
- Compressor: 600–800 g (winding + tubes).
- Condenser: 400–500 g.
- Evaporator: 200–300 g.
The rest is distributed between the wires and the capillary tube. This model has high quality copper (few impurities), so it is easy to sell it at the maximum price.
Is it possible to remove copper from the refrigerator without completely disassembling it?
Yes, but you will lose up to 40% of the copper. Minimum set of actions:
- Cut off the condenser (coil on the back wall).
- Disconnect the compressor and cut off the tubes from it.
- Pull out the capillary tube (it goes from the filter drier to the evaporator).
The rest of the copper (compressor winding, evaporator) will remain inaccessible. This approach is justified if the refrigerator is difficult to transport or you do not have time for complete disassembly.
How to clean copper from solder and insulation before delivery?
Cleaning methods:
- Solder: Heat the copper with a soldering iron and wipe off any remaining solder with a stiff brush or emery cloth paper.
- Varnish/insulation: Immerse the wires in a solvent (acetone, White spirit) for 10-15 minutes, then clean with a rag.
- Plastic: Cut the insulation with a knife or use stripper (insulation stripping tool).
⚠️ Do not use open fire for cleaning - fumes from burning insulation are toxic!
Which refrigerators contain more copper: Soviet or modern?
Comparison by era:
| Parameter | Soviet (before 1990) | 1990–2005 | Modern (after 2010) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Total mass of copper | 1.5–2 kg | 1–1.5 kg | 300–800 g |
| Copper quality | High (few impurities) | Average | Low (often alloys) |
| Ease of removal | Difficult (lots of soldering) | Average | Simple (modular design) |
Soviet refrigerators (ZIL-63, Oka-6) are more profitable to disassemble, but require more effort. Modern ones (Atlant, Indesit) contain less copper, but it is easier to extract.
What to do if there is freon left in the refrigerator?
Freon is dangerous to health and the environment environment. Algorithm of actions:
- Do not inhale the gas and do not allow it to come into contact with your skin.
- If the refrigerator is still working, call a technician to pump out freon (cost ~1500 rubles).
- If the refrigerator is faulty, release the freon outside, pointing the tube upward (the gas is heavier than air and will dissipate).
- Use a respirator and gloves!
In large cities there are recycling points where freon is pumped out free of charge (for example, eco-stations at REO).