If your refrigerator Stinol suddenly stops freezing, but the light is on inside, and the compressor is either silent or hums for a few seconds and clicks, the problem most likely lies in the engine starting system. This is a classic situation for equipment of this brand, especially models that have been in operation for more than 10 years. Start relay is a small but critical element that supplies a starting impulse to the electric motor winding. Without it, the compressor cannot go into operating mode, and the refrigerator turns into a useless cabinet.
Many owners of household appliances are afraid of the need to disassemble the unit, believing that for diagnostics they will need to call a technician or take the refrigerator to a service center. However, in most cases, you can find and even replace this part yourself if you know where exactly it is located. In Stinol refrigerators, as in most classic models, this part is not hidden deep inside the case, but is mounted directly on the compressor, which is located in the rear lower part of the device.
For successful work, you do not need complex industrial equipment. A basic set of tools and an understanding of the node structure is enough. In this article, we will look in detail at how to safely get to the compressor, how to identify a faulty relay among other elements, and what to look for when choosing a new replacement part. Stinol - the equipment is repairable, and knowing the location of key components will save you time and money.
Symptoms of a faulty starting device
Before To start searching for the location of the part, you need to make sure that the problem really lies there. The symptoms of a trigger failure are quite specific and difficult to confuse with other failures. Most often, users are faced with a situation where the refrigerator turns on, there is a loud click, the motor tries to start, hums for 2-3 seconds, then clicks again and goes silent. After some time, the cycle repeats.
In some cases, the compressor may not make any sounds at all, except for the quiet hum of electricity, but the start-up never occurs. This may indicate that the contacts inside the relay have oxidized or become so burnt that the circuit is not closing. It is also worth paying attention to the temperature of the compressor housing: if it is hot, but there is no cold, it means that the engine is trying to work, but starting current is not supplied correctly.
⚠️ Attention: If after a characteristic click you smell burnt wiring or see sparking, immediately disconnect the refrigerator from networks. Operating the device with a faulty starting device can lead to burnout of the compressor windings, which is a much more expensive breakdown.
Another sign is the lack of starting after a long period of inactivity. If the refrigerator was turned off, and after being plugged in it did not start working, although the light was on, this is a sure sign of a problem in the starting circuit. It is important to distinguish this from a breakdown of the compressor or thermostat itself. If the thermostat is faulty, the compressor may not turn on at all, but when its contacts are closed directly, the motor often starts. If the problem is in the relay, then even if voltage is directly supplied to the starting winding through a working element, the engine will start working.
Localization of the compressor and access to the unit
To find the starting relay, the first thing you need to do is gain access to the compressor. In refrigerators of the brand Stinol, as in most classic two-chamber models, the motor-compressor is located in a niche in the lower rear part of the case. To access it, you need to move the refrigerator away from the wall. Be careful not to pull the unit by the door handle or top; it is best to lean on the lower plinth or use the help of a second person to avoid damaging the floor or tearing off the hinges.
After you move the refrigerator away, you will see a metal panel or plastic casing covering the lower part of the back wall. In some Stinol models, this compartment can be opened, and the compressor is immediately visible. If a protective panel is installed, it must be removed. It is usually secured with latches or several self-tapping screws. Unscrew the fasteners and carefully remove the lid, revealing access to the “heart” of the refrigerator.
The compressor is a black metal tank (similar to a cylinder), to which copper tubes and electrical wires fit. It is at the end of this tank, most often on the left or right side (depending on the model), that the desired device is fixed. It is a plastic box of black or white color, which contains a bundle of wires. This is start relay assembled with a thermal protector.
Design and location of the relay on the compressor
The part we are looking for does not just hang on the wires, it sits tightly on the terminals (contacts) of the compressor. If you look at the end of the black tank, there will be three contacts arranged in a triangle. The relay block is put on them. A thermal protector is attached to the side or bottom of this block - a small tablet or an oblong element that opens the circuit when overheated.
Inside the plastic relay case there is an inductance coil and a movable core (in electromagnetic relays) or a posistor (in modern models). In refrigerators Stinol most often there are electromagnetic relays of the RT or P-1 series, as well as posistor options. Understanding the type of relay is important for diagnosis, but physically they are in the same place. The plastic case can be secured with a metal bracket or simply held in place due to the tight fit on the contacts.
In order to remove the relay for inspection, you do not need to unscrew the compressor itself or unsolder the tubes. Simply disconnect the chip with the wires coming from the thermostat and carefully pull the plastic box off the compressor contacts. Movements should be progressive, without strong distortions, so as not to damage fragile contacts. If the relay has become stuck due to time and high temperature, you can slightly rock it from side to side.
Dismantling and visual diagnostics
After removing the device from the niche and removing it from the compressor contacts, it is necessary to conduct an initial inspection. Visual diagnostics can answer the question of whether the part is worth repairing or whether it is easier to replace it. First of all, inspect the plastic case for melting, blackening or cracks. The presence of burning marks inside the case indicates a short circuit or overheating.
If the case is intact, it can be carefully opened. In old-style electromagnetic relays, the housing is often held in place by latches. Inside you will see a coil and a movable rod with contacts. Check the condition of the contacts: if they are covered with black carbon or oxide, this impairs conductivity. Also check the mobility of the rod: it should move freely inside the coil. If the rod is stuck in the lower position, the contacts will not open, which will lead to the winding burning out.
For posistor relays (where there is a ceramic element inside), a visual inspection is less informative, but still useful. The ceramic tablet should not have cracks or chips. However, even if the posistor is externally intact, it may not work. The most reliable way to check is to “test” with a multimeter. In a cold state, the resistance of the posistor should be low, and when heated (if it is possible to check), it should increase sharply, opening the circuit. If there is no multimeter, and the relay looks intact, it is often easier and cheaper to buy a new one than to risk the compressor.
☑️ Checking the relay before replacing
Compatibility table and types of relays Stinol
Refrigerators Stinol were produced in different years and modifications, so starting relays can differ. It is important to choose an analogue that is suitable in terms of power and type of fastening. Below is a table of the main types of relays used in this technique and their characteristics.
| Relay type | Marking | Compatibility | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Electromagnetic | RT-21X, R-1 | Old models Stinol, Atlant | There is a movable rod, it clicks during operation |
| POSISTOR | RT-6, 100M457 | Newer models, No Frost | No moving parts, quieter work |
| Combined | With thermal protector | Universal | Protection built into the housing or separately |
| Two-compressor | Specific | Models with two motors | Smaller size, different type of contacts |
When purchasing a new part, pay attention not only to the markings, but also to the number of contacts and their location. Sometimes manufacturers of household appliances change component suppliers, and the same refrigerator could have different relays installed over the years of production. If you have not found an exact analogue, you can choose a universal relay, but to do this you need to know the power of your compressor, which is indicated on the nameplate (metal sticker) on the motor housing.
Pay attention to the thermal protector. In some models it is a separate element that is put on the compressor housing, while in others it is built into a common platform with a relay. When replacing a relay, the thermal protection “pill” is often changed, since its resource is also limited, and it could have been damaged during previous overloads.
Installation of a new part and first start-up
The process of installing a new starting relay is the reverse of the dismantling process. Make sure the refrigerator is unplugged. Take the new relay and place it on the compressor contacts. It should fit tightly, without play. Refer to the markings on the case: the contacts are usually labeled (S - starting winding, R - working winding, C - common). If you mix up the contacts, the compressor will not start or will burn out.
After installing the relay, connect the block with wires from the thermostat. Check that all connections are secure. Do not rush to immediately push the refrigerator against the wall. Plug in the device and listen. There should be a click (or two if there is a delay) and the compressor should start with a characteristic even hum. If the start-up was successful, let the refrigerator run for 10-15 minutes to make sure that the relay does not heat up excessively and does not spark.
⚠️ Attention: Specifications of compressors and requirements for starting devices may vary depending on the specific batch of equipment. Always check the markings on the new part with the data on the nameplate of your refrigerator before installation.
If after replacing the relay the situation has not changed (the compressor hums, but does not start), the problem may be deeper. Perhaps the compressor itself has failed (turn-to-turn short circuit) or the wiring is faulty. In this case, self-repair can be dangerous, and it is better to contact a professional technician with the appropriate diagnostic equipment.
Why does the relay burn out?
A common reason for the starting relay burning out is unstable voltage in the network or long surges. This is also caused by natural wear and tear of the contacts. If the lights in your home flicker frequently, it is recommended to install a voltage stabilizer to protect all household appliances.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to start a Stinol refrigerator without a start relay?
Theoretically, you can start the engine by applying voltage to the starting winding manually, but this is absolutely impossible to do in a domestic environment. Without a relay, the compressor will not be able to reach operating mode, it will hum and quickly burn out due to overheating of the windings. The relay is an essential element of the system.
How much does it cost to replace the starting relay?
The cost of the part itself varies from 300 to 1000 rubles, depending on the model and manufacturer. If you call a specialist, the price of the work will be another 1,000 to 2,000 rubles. Self-replacement saves the budget, since it only requires the purchase of a part.
How to distinguish a Stinol relay from relays of other brands?
Stinol relays often have markings starting with RT or P, and a specific shape of a plastic case (often black with edges). However, many modern relays are universal. The main thing is the coincidence of the contact pattern and power, and not the logo on the plastic.
Why did the new relay immediately burn out?
This may indicate a malfunction of the compressor itself (jamming of the piston group), problems with the wiring, or a power surge in the network. Also, the reason may be improper installation or a mismatch in the power of the engine power relay.
Do you need to defrost the refrigerator before replacing the relay?
Complete defrosting is not necessary if you work quickly and carefully with the back wall. However, if the refrigerator is severely frozen or you are planning long-term work, it is better to defrost it so that water does not get on the electrical contacts when the unit is tilted.