If your refrigerator Atlant stops freezing, but you clearly hear the hum of the motor or, conversely, silence with periodic clicks, the problem most likely lies in the compressor starting system. Start-protection relay is a small but critical element that controls the supply of current to the windings engine. Its malfunction leads to the fact that the compressor cannot start or, even worse, burns out from overheating.
In this article we will analyze in detail where exactly this unit is located in various models of Belarusian-made refrigerators. You will learn how to safely access the part, what to look for when diagnosing, and why self-replacement requires strict adherence to electrical safety rules. Understanding the structure of your unit will help save time on calling a technician or, at least, accurately diagnose the cause of the breakdown.
You should not ignore the first signs of unstable operation. Diagnostics at an early stage allows you to avoid costly repairs of the compressor itself. We will look at the design of relays, their types for different series Atlant and a step-by-step algorithm of actions when a defect is detected.
Symptoms of a faulty starting relay
The first sign that starting relay failure is the characteristic behavior of the compressor. The unit may hum for a few seconds and then suddenly go silent with a loud click. This cycle is repeated at regular intervals until the refrigerator is unplugged. In some cases, the motor does not make any sounds, remaining completely cold, although the light inside is on.
External manifestations may also include strong heating of the rear wall of the refrigerator in the lower part. If you touch the capacitor (the grill on the back) or the side walls and they are scalding hot, this may indicate that the relay is “stuck” and continues to supply current to the starting winding without turning it off after starting. This is a critical operating mode that can lead to a fire.
Another symptom is the lack of cold when the fan is running (in No Frost models). If you are convinced that the refrigerant has not leaked (the evaporator tubes are cold or unevenly covered with frost), and the engine does not start, then in 80% of cases it is the protection relay or starting capacitor that is to blame. Sometimes a malfunction is accompanied by the smell of burning or melted plastic in the compressor area.
Where to look for the relay in single-compressor models
In classic single-compressor refrigerators Atlant (MHM, KHT series) access to electrical engineering is simplified as much as possible. The compressor is located in a niche in the lower rear part of the housing. To find the relay, you do not need to disassemble the entire unit. It is enough to move the refrigerator away from the wall and remove the protective cover that covers the engine compartment.
The device itself is located directly on the compressor output rod. It is closed with a plastic or metal casing, which is secured with latches or screws. Inside this casing, on three contact pins protruding from the motor housing, it is mounted start-protective relay. In single-compressor models, as a rule, it is a single unit that combines the functions of starting and thermal protection.
Please note that in older models Atlant the relay could be attached to the refrigerator frame next to the motor, and wires could be led to the compressor contacts. However, most modern modifications use the “on-rod” circuit. For visual inspection, you must carefully remove the casing, having first disconnected the device from the power supply.
Design features of the casing
The engine compartment cover can be secured with screws for a Phillips screwdriver or with plastic clips. Be careful when removing, as the plastic becomes brittle over time and can crack if handled carelessly.
Location in two-compressor refrigerators
In two-compressor models Atlant (for example, series 40, 41, 42, 45) the situation is a little more complicated, since you have two motor: one for the refrigerator compartment, the other for the freezer. Accordingly, there are two starting relays. They are located symmetrically or next to each other in the lower rear part of the unit, each on its own compressor.
It is important to correctly identify which compressor is not working. If the refrigerator compartment is warm, but everything in the freezer is frozen, then there is a problem with the relay of the upper (usually smaller) compressor. If both chambers do not freeze, both relays may be faulty, or one of the compressors, or the central control electronics.
⚠️ Attention: In two-compressor models, the relays may differ in power and type of connection. Never swap them, even if they look similar. The markings on the case must correspond to the power of the specific motor.
Access to them is carried out in the same way: remove the general or individual protective covers at the bottom of the rear wall. In some models Atlant with the No Frost system, access may be partially blocked by elements of the water drainage system, but, as a rule, dismantling additional equipment is not required.
Types of relays used in Atlant refrigerators
The manufacturer Atlant over the years of production, used various types of start-protective devices. Understanding the differences between them is critical when selecting a replacement part. The most common are induction (electromagnetic) and posistor relays.
Below is a table that helps identify the type of relay by external features and markings:
| Relay type | Appearance | Principle of operation | Characteristic sound |
|---|---|---|---|
| Induction (RT, RTK) | Black or white plastic case, a coil and a movable core are visible inside | Closing contacts with a magnetic field when startup | Loud metallic click when starting and stopping |
| Posistor (PZR) | Most often a white or gray case, inside a ceramic element (tablet) | Heating of the posistor breaks the starting circuit windings | Almost silent, may crack slightly |
| Combined | Combines features of both types, often has two compartments | Combines electromagnetic start and thermal protection | Click when the protection is triggered |
Induction relays of the series RTK (for example, RTK-1, RTK-1-3) are considered more reliable and repairable, but they are heavier and more expensive. PTC analogues (PZR) are cheaper, more compact, but sensitive to current overloads and often fail during voltage surges. When replacing an induction relay with a posistor relay (or vice versa), be sure to check the electrical diagram, since the connection may differ.
Instructions for dismantling and inspection
Before you begin removing the part, make sure that the refrigerator is unplugged for at least 15-20 minutes. This is necessary to discharge the capacitors and cool the compressor. Working with electrical appliances under voltage is strictly prohibited.
The dismantling process is as follows:
- 🔌 Disconnect the power cord from the outlet and move the refrigerator, providing access to the back wall.
- 🛠 Remove the protective cover of the engine compartment, by unscrewing the mounting screws or releasing the latches.
- 📸 Take a photo of the diagram for connecting the wires to the relay so as not to confuse the contacts during assembly.
- ✂ Carefully disconnect the wire terminals. In older models they may be soldered, then a soldering iron will be required.
- 🧊 Remove the relay from the compressor rod. It can be held on by spring brackets or simply sit tightly on the contacts.
To test the relay, use a multimeter in continuity mode. For a posistor relay, the resistance between the contacts should be within normal limits (usually several tens of Ohms), and when heated, it should go to infinity. The induction relay is checked for coil breakage and core mobility. If the core is jammed or the coil is burnt out (black coating, burning smell), the part must be replaced.
☑️ Check before installing a new relay
⚠️ Attention: If carbon or oxidation is visible on the compressor contacts, be sure to clean them with fine sandpaper before installing a new relay. Poor contact will lead to rapid failure of the new part.
Nuances of replacement and selection of analogs
When buying a new start-up protection relay for Atlanta it is important to consider not only the model of the refrigerator, but and the model of the compressor itself. The motor nameplate (metal sticker on the body) indicates the type of refrigerant, power and, often, the recommended relay type. For example, for compressors Atlant SKO/SKN series relays of the RTK series are suitable, and for more modern ones - PZR.
Original spare parts Atlant (articles starting with 1214030, 1214040, etc.) guarantee full compliance of the seats. However, there are high-quality universal analogues from manufacturers like Danfoss (now Secop) or Embraco, which can be suitable with the correct selection of power (in watts or horsepower).
It is critical to observe the orientation of the relay when installing: there is usually an arrow "UP" or "TOP" on the case, which should look straight up. If you install the relay upside down, gravity will not allow the mechanism to work correctly, and the protection will not work in time, which will lead to the motor burning out.
After installation, reassemble everything in the reverse order. Plug in the refrigerator. Operation is considered normal when, after switching on, one click is heard (start), the motor begins to hum evenly, and after a while (10-15 minutes) the cold begins to be felt. Repeated clicks indicate incorrect installation or malfunction of the new part.
What to do if the new relay also does not work?
If after replacing the relay the symptoms do not disappear, the problem may be deeper: an interturn short circuit in the compressor windings, a freon leak, or a thermostat malfunction. In this case, professional diagnostics with measurement of current consumption are required.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to start an Atlant refrigerator without a starting relay?
Technically, you can start the motor by applying current directly to the working and starting windings, but this is strictly not recommended for continuous use. Without a relay, the compressor will not be able to switch to operating mode on its own and will burn out in a few seconds due to overheating of the starting winding. This is only possible for a short-term check of the performance of the motor itself.
Why does the relay constantly burn out after replacement?
Frequent burnouts indicate that the reason is not in the relay itself. Possible culprits: low voltage in the network, a “seizing” compressor (mechanical problem), freon leak (the motor runs without load and overheats) or a malfunction of the thermostat. A comprehensive examination of the system is necessary.
How much does it cost to replace a relay in a service compared to doing it yourself?
The cost of the relay itself ranges from 500 to 1500 rubles, depending on the type. The replacement work will take 15-20 minutes and will cost about the same as the part itself. Self-replacement saves money on a call, but requires tools and minimal skills.
Will a relay from another refrigerator, for example, Indesit, be suitable?
Yes, if the electrical characteristics (cut-off current, power) and mounting dimensions match. Many compressor manufacturers (Aspera, Danfoss) use unified relays. The main thing is to check the markings and type (induction or posistor).