Finding the climate control point inside the refrigerator compartment often becomes a task with an asterisk, especially when it comes to models Stinolmade in the 90s and early 2000s. Unlike modern technology, where electronics are hidden behind displays, mechanics reign here, and thermostat can be hidden in the most unexpected places of the body or inside the camera itself. Understanding the design of your specific model is the first and most important step to successful diagnostics.
Incorrect determination of the sensor installation location often leads to self-taught craftsmen beginning to disassemble working components, wasting time and risking damage to the integrity of the insulation. In refrigerators Stinol the location of this element directly depends on the number of compressors and the type of defrosting system. Thermostat is responsible for turning the motor on and off, so its sensitive element must be in contact with the evaporator or chamber air in a certain way.
In this article we will analyze in detail all possible placement options, from classic models to systems with No Frostso that you can determine exactly where to look for the cause of an unstable temperature. Knowing the exact location is necessary not only for replacement, but also for simple adjustment of operating modes if the standard settings are not enough.
Design features of Stinol thermostats
Before you delve into the bowels of the unit with a screwdriver, it is worth understanding what type of device you are dealing with. In refrigerators Stinol most often there are mechanical thermostats of the series TAM or K-59. These are reliable devices that work on the principle of expansion and compression of gas or liquid inside a bellows tube. It is this tube coming out of the regulator body that is the “probe” that reads the temperature.
The length of this tube and the location of its attachment dictate where the control unit itself will be located. In some models it is simply a handle on the inner wall, in others it is a complex assembly hidden behind a plastic panel or even taken outside. Capillary tube very sensitive to mechanical damage, so any manipulations require extreme caution.
There is a direct relationship between the year of manufacture and the design. Early models Stinol-101 or 103 have a simpler and more accessible layout, while newer versions with the system No Frost require partial disassembly of the freezer to access the sensor. It is important to consider that in two-compressor models there will be two regulators: one for the refrigerator compartment, the other for the freezer.
Where to look for the regulator in models with one compressor
In classic single-compressor models such as Stinol-101, 102, 104, the search usually does not take much time. The manufacturer, following the standards of that time, placed thermostat in the most accessible place for the user. Most often this is the upper right or left corner of the refrigerator compartment, just below the ceiling.
You will see a plastic knob with numbers or divisions from 1 to 5 (sometimes up to 7). It is mounted on a through rod that passes through the chamber wall. On the back side of the wall, in a foamed space or behind a decorative casing, there is the mechanism itself with a bellows. In some modifications, for example, in Stinol-107, the handle can be combined with the lampshade, which creates additional confusion during dismantling.
- 🔍 Inspect the ceiling of the chamber: the handle can be recessed into a special groove.
- 🔍 Check the side walls: in rare cases, the regulator is moved closer to the door.
- 🔍 Pay attention to the lamp shade: sometimes the thermostat is integrated into a single unit with lighting.
If there is no handle inside the chamber, and the model assumes mechanical control, it is worth looking outside the refrigerator compartment. In some cases, especially when using universal repairable units, thermostat could be taken outside. Look for it in the upper part of the case, above the door, where sometimes a plastic box with a switch is installed.
Particular attention should be paid to models with a “crying” evaporator on the back wall. Here, the sensitive tube of the thermostat is often inserted directly into the evaporator channel or pressed against it with a special bracket. When replacing, it is important not to lose this bracket and install the tube correctly, otherwise cycling the compressor will be damaged.
Location of the sensor in No Frost refrigerators
The situation changes dramatically when it comes to models with the system No Frost, such as Stinol-116, 117, 118, 119. There is no ice on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment, and the cold is supplied through special channels. Accordingly, the temperature sensor is not in plain sight, but hidden behind decorative panels.
In most cases thermostat (or the air sensor, if the model is more modern, but we are talking about mechanics) is hidden behind the back wall of the refrigerator compartment or behind the panel at the top of the chamber. To get to it, you will have to remove the shelves, possibly dismantle the light shade and carefully unclip the plastic clips.
In the freezer compartment of such refrigerators, the regulator is often located behind the top cover, under which there are fans and an evaporator. Access to it requires unscrewing several screws and removing the protective casing. This is a more labor-intensive process that requires care not to break the plastic latches, which have become brittle over time.
⚠️ Attention: The plastic in old refrigerators Stinol after decades of use becomes very brittle. When removing panels in models No Frost act without excessive force, preheating the plastic with a hairdryer, if possible, or working at room temperature to avoid cracks.
The tube thermostat in the No Frost system is usually attached to the ribs evaporator or hangs freely in the circulating air flow, depending on the specific modification. An error when installing the tube back (for example, if it touches the metal of the case and not the ribs) will lead to incorrect temperature readings.
Specifics of dual-circuit Stinol models
Two-compressor models Stinol (for example, Stinol-123, 124, 125) are, in fact, two independent refrigerators in one case. This means that they also have two temperature regulators, and they are located independently of each other.
The refrigerator compartment regulator is usually located in the usual place - inside the refrigerator compartment, under the ceiling. But the freezer regulator can be located either inside the freezer (on the ceiling or side wall), or placed outside, on the upper end of the case above the freezer door. This is done for convenience, so as not to open the freezer for adjustment.
Why are the regulators different in two-compressor models?
Although they look similar, thermostats for the freezer and refrigerator compartments have different response temperature ranges. A freezer thermostat (often labeled K-59 or equivalent) is designed for lower shutdown temperatures than a refrigeration thermostat (for example, TAM-133). You cannot confuse them - the refrigerator either will not freeze or will turn into an ice block.
When diagnosing faults in such models, it is important to immediately determine which circuit is malfunctioning. If the upper chamber does not freeze, we look for the regulator inside it. If the problem is with the bottom, check the top end or the inside of the freezer. Independence of circuits makes the search easier, but requires understanding that there are twice as many controls.
The table below shows typical locations of regulators for popular series:
| Model Stinol | System type | Location of regulator | Access features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stinol-101, 102 | Static | Inside, ceiling on the right | Available without disassembly |
| Stinol-107, 110 | Static | Inside, combined with the ceiling | Removal of the ceiling is required |
| Stinol-116, 118 | No Frost | Behind the rear panel inside | Removal of panels required |
| Stinol-123, 124 | Two compressors | HC: inside; MK: outside from above | Two independent regulators |
The process of dismantling and replacing the thermostat
If you have determined exactly where it is temperature regulatorand decided to replace it, you need to prepare a tool. You will need screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead), pliers and, preferably, a new thermostat of the same marking. Marking is a critical parameter, since the length of the capillary tube and the temperature range differ between models.
The process begins by removing the adjustment knob. It is usually simply removed by hand or pryed off with a flat screwdriver if it has a lock. After this, the fastening nut or screws holding the thermostat housing are unscrewed. Be prepared for the fact that over the years of service the thread could “stick.”
☑️ Checklist before replacing the thermostat
The most crucial moment is removing the sensitive tube. It can be fixed in the evaporator channel or pressed with a bracket. You can’t pull too hard - the tube will burst and the gas will escape. Gently loosen it, helping yourself with pliers through the soft fabric if necessary. The new sensor is installed in the reverse order; the tube must be inserted to the same depth as the old one.
When connecting the electrical part, carefully look at the diagram. Wires usually do not have a color standard, so a photograph before removal is required. The terminals may oxidize and should be cleaned. After assembly, the refrigerator should be left unplugged for at least 15-20 minutes before the first start, so that the refrigerant and oils calm down.
⚠️ Attention: If you are changing the thermostat to an analogue with a different length of capillary tube, make sure that the excess length can be carefully placed in the designated area without bending the tube with a radius of less than 30 mm. Kinking the tube will lead to its fracture and failure of the new device.
Typical problems and fault diagnosis
Understanding where it is regulatorhelps not only in replacement, but also in diagnosis. If the refrigerator runs non-stop or, conversely, does not turn on at all, the problem often lies in the thermostat or its contacts. However, it is worth distinguishing the breakdown of the regulator from other malfunctions.
If the compressor hums but does not start, or starts and immediately clicks, it may be the start relay, not the thermostat. But if the compressor is silent, although the chamber is warm, you can try to close the contacts of the thermostat directly (observing safety precautions!). If the motor starts working, it means thermostat it is faulty and requires replacement.
- ❄️ The refrigerator is not turns off: possibly “stuck” contacts inside the thermostat or a freon leak (in the latter case, replacing the sensor will not help).
- ❄️ Weak cooling: perhaps the settings have gone wrong or the thermostat tube has moved away from the evaporator.
- ❄️ Frequent switching on: the thermostat has lost calibration and opens the circuit too early.
In models with manual defrosting, freezing of the thermostat tube itself inside the channel becomes a common problem. This creates a false feeling of cold and the compressor does not turn on in time. The solution is to completely defrost the refrigerator within 24 hours. If the problem repeats immediately after turning on, it means that the tightness of the channel or drainage is broken.
Setup and calibration after installation
After replacement thermostat adjustment is often required. Factory parameters may not coincide with the actual operating conditions of your refrigerator (load of products, room temperature, wear of seals). The regulator knob is not an accurate device, but only an indicator of the approximate range.
For precise adjustments, it is better to use an external thermometer placed in a glass of water in the center of the chamber. Set the knob to the middle position and wait for the temperature to stabilize (about 5-6 hours). If the temperature does not correspond to the desired temperature (for example, +4...+5°C in the refrigerator compartment), adjust the position of the handle.
Some models have a calibration screw or slot under the handle. By turning this screw you can shift the entire temperature range. Clockwise - the temperature rises (the compressor turns on less often), counterclockwise - it decreases. However, in everyday conditions it is better to use a standard pen without touching the hidden calibrations, unless you are an expert.
Do not forget that Stinol the equipment is reliable, but age-old. Regular checking of the seals and the cleanliness of the condenser at the back affect the operation of the thermostat no less than its serviceability. A dirty radiator makes the compressor work longer, and the thermostat may not have time to “track” the temperature rise, operating in an abnormal mode.
Is it possible to use a universal thermostat?
Yes, there are universal thermostats (for example, TAM-133 with a set of tubes different lengths). However, “native” sensors for Stinol (K-59, Ranco) often have a more suitable range and length, which eliminates the problem of laying an extra tube.
What to do if the regulator knob rotates endlessly?
If the thermostat knob rotates without clicks and restrictions in any direction, this is a sign of an internal failure of the mechanism. Most likely, the spring or rod inside the housing has broken. Such a regulator will not open the circuit, and the refrigerator will work continuously until you turn it off. A complete replacement of the unit is required.
Why did the refrigerator begin to freeze more after replacing the thermostat?
This may be due to the fact that the new thermostat has a different temperature response range. It is also possible that the sensing tube is installed deeper into the evaporator channel or pressed closer to it, causing it to cool faster. Try setting the knob to the minimum value (1) and check the temperature after a day.
How to determine that the thermostat tube has burst during dismantling?
This can be heard by the characteristic hissing of the escaping gas (if it was still under pressure) or smelled if a specific refrigerant was used (although the thermostats themselves often contain an odorless inert gas). Visually, a break or crack will be visible on the copper tube. Such a sensor can no longer be repaired and requires replacement.
Is it possible to temporarily short-circuit the thermostat to make the refrigerator work?
Technically, you can connect the wires directly and the compressor will work. But this can only be done for a short-term check of the motor! You cannot leave the refrigerator with a shorted thermostat: the compressor will work continuously, which will lead to deep freezing of food, freezing of the chamber and eventual combustion of the motor-compressor from overload.