Refrigeration equipment of the brand Stinol is deservedly famous for its durability and reliability, however, even the highest quality equipment may fail over time. One of the most common causes of temperature violations is the failure of the temperature sensor, which is often called a temperature sensor or thermistor. If your refrigerator has stopped freezing, or, conversely, has begun to turn food into ice blocks, the problem may lie in this small but critical element.
Owners often wonder where exactly to look for this component, since its location can vary significantly depending on the model and year of manufacture of the unit. In some cases it is hidden deep inside the evaporator, in others it is accessible after removing a simple plastic cover. Understanding the design of your specific model Stinol will allow you not only to quickly diagnose the malfunction, but also to save a significant amount on calling a technician if you decide to replace it yourself.
In this article we will analyze in detail the design of various modifications, indicate the exact locations for installing the sensors and give recommendations for checking them. Thermal sensor are the “eyes” of the refrigerator, informing the control unit about the current climate inside the chambers, so its serviceability guarantees the safety of your products.
The role of the thermal sensor in the refrigerator control system
Before you start troubleshooting, you need to clearly understand what function this one performs element in a common circuit. In modern models Stinol with electronic control, the temperature sensor is thermistor, the resistance of which varies depending on the ambient temperature. The control unit constantly reads these readings and, based on them, makes a decision to turn the compressor on or off.
If the sensor transmits incorrect data, for example, it shows that it is warm in the chamber, although in fact it is already frosty there, the compressor will work without stopping. This leads to food freezing and excessive energy consumption. And vice versa, if the sensor “thinks” that there is enough cold, the motor may not turn on at all, which will lead to defrosting of the contents.
Unlike old mechanical thermostats, which simply opened the circuit when reaching a certain point, electronic NTC sensor provides smooth and precise adjustment. That is why replacing a mechanical element with an electronic one (or vice versa, without re-soldering the circuit) is impossible - they work on different principles.
⚠️ Attention: An attempt to replace an electronic temperature sensor with a mechanical thermostat without a deep modernization of the electrical circuit will lead to failure of the refrigerator control unit.
Diagnostics begins with an analysis of symptoms. If an error appears on the display or the temperature indicator flashes, this is the first signal that the sensor circuit is broken. However, in models without a display, the problem may only be indicated by incorrect operation of the compressor.
Location of sensors in refrigerators with a drip system
In classic models Stinol with a drip defrosting system (“crying wall”), the main chamber temperature sensor is most often located in the upper part of the refrigerator compartment. Structurally, it is a small plastic cylinder mounted on the back wall or hidden inside it.
In most cases, to access the element, it is not necessary to disassemble the entire unit. It is enough to remove the top decorative panel or plastic trim covering the upper part of the rear wall. In some modifications, the sensor may be built directly into the evaporator body, and then to replace it you will need to bend a sheet of metal or plastic.
It is important to note that several sensors can be used in two-chamber refrigerators. One is responsible for the main chamber, the other for the freezer compartment. Their location is symmetrical or mirrored, but the access paths to them may differ.
- 🔍 Upper part: most often the sensor is hidden under a plastic visor at the top of the rear wall.
- ❄️ Evaporator: in some models the sensor is recessed into the aluminum sheet of the evaporator for more accurate reading.
- 🔌 Cable: the wire from the sensor usually goes up to the control unit or down to the compressor compartment.
If you find that the sensor is covered with a layer of ice or frost, this may indicate a problem with the defrost system. In this case, simply replacing the sensor may not solve the problem completely - you will need to check the system No Frost or drainage.
Searching for a sensor in models with the No Frost system
Refrigerators Stinolequipped with the system No Frosthave a more complex internal architecture. Here, temperature sensors are located not just on the wall, but directly in the air flow area or on the evaporator itself, hidden behind the back panel of the freezer or refrigerator.
To get to the temperature sensor in such models, you will have to remove the back plastic panel inside the freezer. This is where the evaporator and defrost system are located. The sensor in the No Frost system is often paired with Defrost heating element and a timer (or defrost relay), forming a single unit.
Visually it may look like a small “tablet” or an oblong element inserted into a special hole in the aluminum fins evaporator. Its task is to control the temperature of the evaporator in order to start or stop the heating element in time.
☑️ Check before disassembly
When removing the panel, be careful: the plastic latches on old refrigerators can be fragile. If you hear a characteristic crack, it is better to pry the panel with a flat screwdriver through a soft cloth so as not to damage the plastic.
Dismantling and access to internal components
The process of dismantling panels to access the temperature sensor requires accuracy and a minimum set of tools. You will need screwdrivers (Phillips and flat head), a contact stripper, and possibly pliers. Before starting any work be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply.
First you need to empty the chamber of food and shelves. Then remove all visible fasteners: screws, bolts, decorative plugs. In models Stinol there are often hidden fasteners under rubber seals or plastic linings.
After removing the panel, you will see the evaporator and the wires suitable for it. The temperature sensor is usually fixed in a special socket or pressed with a metal bracket. Its wires can be twisted with the wires of other elements (for example, a fan or heating element) and wrapped with insulation.
| Model Stinol | Sensor location | Mounting type | Difficulty of access |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stinol 102 | Top part, under the plastic | Latch/Bracket | Low |
| Stinol 104 | Inside the evaporator (No Frost) | Inserted into the hole | Medium |
| Stinol 205 | Rear wall, top | Clip | Low |
| Stinol 242 | Freezer, behind the panel | Heat shrink | High |
When disconnecting the wires, be sure to photograph or sketch the connection diagram. Reversed polarity (although it is often not critical for a thermistor, unlike a heating element) or incorrect connection can lead to an error in the control unit.
⚠️ Attention: When working with the evaporator, avoid using sharp objects to chip ice. Damage to the evaporator tubes will lead to freon leakage and expensive repairs.
What to do if the wires are broken at the very root?
If the temperature sensor wires break directly at the entrance to the case or in a hard-to-reach place, do not try to pull them by force. It is better to carefully expand access by removing additional insulation or part of the sheathing in order to perform high-quality soldering. Twisting in conditions of high humidity and vibration will not last long.
Diagnostics and checking the serviceability of the element
Before buying a new part, you should make sure that the problem is in it, and not in the wire or control unit. To check, you will need multimeterset to resistance measurement mode (Ohms).
Disconnect the sensor from the circuit and measure its resistance at room temperature. For most models Stinol at a temperature of about +20...+25°C, the resistance should be approximately 5-7 kOhm (kilo-ohm). The exact values depend on the specific modification of the sensor.
Then you can cool the sensor (for example, by putting it in the freezer for a few minutes) and measure the resistance again. It must change. If the multimeter shows a “break” (one on the screen) or “zero” regardless of temperature, the sensor is faulty and requires replacement.
- 📉 Checking resistance: compare the readings with the reference values for your model.
- 🌡️ Reaction test: a working sensor should smoothly change resistance when heated or cooling.
- 🔌 Circuit integrity: check the wires for fractures and oxidation of contacts.
A frequent problem is oxidation of contacts at the junction of the wires. Sometimes it is enough to clean them and connect them securely for the refrigerator to work correctly again.
Replacing the temperature sensor and assembling the refrigerator
If the diagnostics confirm the malfunction, a replacement is made. The new sensor should have similar characteristics (resistance at 25°C and B-parameter). Installation is carried out in the reverse order: first fix the sensor in the socket, then connect the wires.
To connect the wires, it is best to use soldering followed by insulation with a heat-shrinkable tube. The twists, even carefully wrapped with electrical tape, quickly oxidize in a refrigerator and lose contact due to condensation.
After connecting, reassemble the structure in the reverse order: install the panel, secure the fasteners, return the shelves and products. Only after complete assembly, turn on the refrigerator.
The first start-up may take some time. Allow the unit to reach temperature for 2-4 hours before deciding whether the repair was successful. If during this time no errors have appeared and the operating mode has become stable, the repair can be considered complete