Modern refrigerators Ariston (often labeled as Indesit or Hotpoint-Ariston depending on the year of manufacture) are complex electromechanical devices, where each element is responsible for maintaining the temperature regime. When an appliance stops turning on, humming, or, conversely, stops freezing, the owner’s first thought often comes down to looking for a blown fuse. However, unlike washing machines or microwave ovens, in refrigeration equipment there is rarely a classic fuse in the form of a glass bulb or a ceramic cylinder, available for quick replacement without disassembling the unit.
In the design of refrigerators Ariston the function of protecting the electrical circuit is usually performed by thermostatic fusebuilt directly into the system defrost, or protection is implemented through the compressor start-up relay. Understanding this difference is critical for correct diagnosis. If you are looking for where the fuse is located in an Ariston refrigerator, you will have to look inside the freezer or dismantle the back panel, since external fuses are not structurally provided in these models.
Further actions depend on the symptoms: if the refrigerator is silent and shows no signs of life, the problem may be in the compressor power circuit. If the unit works, but does not freeze or the “fur coat” freezes, we are talking about the No Frost system and the defrost fuse. In this material we will analyze both options, consider the location of the protective elements and methods for checking them with a multimeter.
The design of the protection system for Ariston refrigerators
The company's engineering thought Ariston provides for several levels of protection for electrical equipment. The main consumer of energy is the compressor, and it is its circuits that are protected first. The classic fuse here is replaced by a combination of a starting relay and a thermal protection relay. The thermal relay opens the circuit when there is an overcurrent or overheating of the motor windings, and the starting relay ensures the start of the motor. These elements are located in a black casing at the lower rear of the unit.
The second circuit of protection concerns the system No Frost. A thermal fuse (thermal fuse) is used here, which breaks the defrost heating element circuit if the temperature in the evaporator exceeds the critical temperature (usually 70-80°C). This prevents the plastic parts of the evaporator from burning or becoming deformed. Unlike the compressor relay, this element is disposable: if it has tripped, it must be replaced.
⚠️ Attention: The thermal fuse in the defrost system is a disposable element. If it is burnt out, simply replacing it is not enough. It is necessary to find the cause of overheating (faulty defrost sensor, stuck defrost relay or faulty control board), otherwise the new element will burn out after several cycles.
The location of the protection elements depends on the specific series of the refrigerator. On electronically controlled models, a common combination is a mechanical thermostat on the compressor and an electronic fuse on the control board or in the evaporator wiring harness. It is important not to confuse the temperature sensor and the fuse, since visually they may be similar (a metal cylinder with two wires), but perform different functions.
Location of the fuse in the No Frost system
If your refrigerator Ariston stops freezing, but the fan is working (air noise is heard), and on the back wall of the freezer ice is visible, most likely the problem is in the defrost circuit. The fuse in this system is located directly on the evaporator. To access it, you will need to completely or partially disassemble the freezer compartment, which is a labor-intensive process.
In most models Ariston (series Stylos, Indesit assemblies), the evaporator is hidden behind a plastic panel on the back wall of the freezer compartment. The fuse is usually mounted on the aluminum fin of the evaporator or on the tube coming from the compressor and covered with insulating material. It looks like a small metal cylinder with two wires, often encased in a plastic tip or heat shrink.
- 🔍 Visual inspection: Look for an element connected in series with the defrost heating element (a curved tube or spiral under a plastic box).
- ❄️ Installation location: The mount is usually located in the top or middle part of the evaporator, where the temperature reaches a maximum during failures.
- 🔌 Connection type: A detachable connection is often used, but in some cases the wires can be twisted and insulated.
To get to this node, you need defrost the refrigerator for at least 24 hours (even if there is visually little ice, it may be inside the foam or under the panel). After defrosting, remove the plastic cover covering the evaporator. Be careful: plastic latches on freezers Ariston become fragile over time.
Hidden layout
In classic two-chamber Ariston refrigerators with No Frost, the thermal fuse is often hidden under a layer of thermal insulation (polyurethane foam or felt) right on the evaporator fins. It can be secured with a clamp or simply lie in the recess between the tubes.
Protective elements of the compressor and start relay
At the bottom of the refrigerator, where the motor-compressor is located, there is another type of protection. There is no classic filament fuse here. The protection function is performed thermal relay, which mechanically opens the contacts when overheated. It is tightly fitted onto the compressor housing or is part of the starting device.
If the refrigerator Ariston hums for 5-10 seconds, then a click is heard and it goes silent (and so on in a circle), this indicates a faulty starting relay or a jammed compressor. In rare cases, the winding of the thermal relay itself may burn out, which will require replacement of the entire starting device. In modern inverter models Ariston this function is completely transferred to the electronic control unit located at the bottom or top of the unit.
For diagnostics, you need to remove the rear metal cover (crankcase) at the bottom of the refrigerator. There you will see a black barrel of the compressor, and on the side or top there is a plastic box with wires. It is inside this box that there is a starting tablet (capacitor) and a thermal relay. Checking the continuity of the thermal relay circuit with a multimeter should show zero (or resistance close to zero).
Diagnostics with a multimeter: step-by-step instructions
To accurately determine a malfunction, a visual inspection is not enough. You will need a digital multimeter switched to continuity or resistance (ohms) mode. Before starting work, the refrigerator must be disconnected from the network for at least 30 minutes so that the capacitors are discharged (if there are electronics) and the state of the contacts is stabilized.
Checking the thermal fuse of the No Frost system is carried out as follows: first we find the element on the evaporator, disconnect the chip or cut the wires (if the connection is permanent, but it is better to use terminals for re-installation). We apply the multimeter probes to the fuse contacts. A working element should “ring” - the resistance should be close to 0 Ohm. If the multimeter screen shows one or infinity, the element has burned out.
The compressor thermal relay is checked in the same way. We remove it from the compressor contacts (usually they are simply put on) and ring. Important: the thermal relay is tested in a cold state. If it is hot, it may be open temperature, which is normal. Let it cool. The resistance of a serviceable relay should also be minimal.
| Element | Normal resistance | Symptom of malfunction | Location |
|---|---|---|---|
| Thermal fuse | 0 Ohm (Closed) | Infinity (Open) | On the evaporator (freezer) |
| Thermal relay | 0 Ohm (Closed) | Infinity (Open) | Near the compressor |
| Defrost heating element | 200-400 Ohm | Infinity or 0 Ohm | Inside the evaporator box |
| Defrost sensor | Depends on T° (usually 6-10 kOhm) | Open or short circuit | On the evaporator |
☑️ Checking the defrost circuit
Typical causes of combustion fuse
It’s just that fuses in refrigerators Ariston do not burn out. This is always a consequence of another malfunction. The most common reason is failure of defrost sensor (defrost thermostat). If the sensor is “stuck” in the closed state, the control board (or mechanical timer) continues to heat the heating element even after the ice has melted. The temperature rises, and the thermal fuse opens the circuit, saving the refrigerator from a fire.
The second reason is a malfunction of the Heating element (heating element) itself. If there is an insulation breakdown or a short circuit inside the heating element, the current in the circuit increases sharply, which leads to the fuse blowing. It is also worth checking the condition of the wiring: frayed wires, the insulation of which has been damaged by the sharp edges of the evaporator, can cause a short circuit.
The third, less obvious reason is a malfunction of the electronic control module. If the relay on the board is “stuck” in the “on” position, the defrost will work constantly. In such cases, replacing only one fuse will have a temporary effect: the new one will burn out during the next defrost cycle.
⚠️ Attention: Never install a fuse with a higher temperature threshold (for example, 100°C instead of 72°C) or short-circuit its wires directly! This will lead to the melting of the plastic evaporator box and a possible fire.
Replacement process and assembly of components
If diagnostics confirmed the failure of the thermal fuse, it must be replaced with an analogue with identical characteristics. Main parameters: response temperature (usually 72°C, 75°C or 80°C) and rated current (usually 10A). The marking is applied to the element body. Refrigerators Ariston often use universal fuses, available in spare parts stores.
To connect the wires of a new fuse, use special heat-resistant connectors or high-quality soldering followed by heat shrink insulation. Ordinary electrical tape can melt when the heating element is operating. It is better to additionally protect the connection point with cambric. After installing the new element, reassemble the unit in reverse order, making sure that the wires do not touch the heating tubes.
After assembling and connecting the refrigerator to the network, let it work for several hours. If you have a display model, make sure that no errors are returned. In models without a display, a sign of successful repair will be the absence of ice freezing on the back wall of the freezer after 2-3 operating cycles (about 2-3 days).
Frequently asked questions and troubleshooting
Refrigerator owners Ariston often wonder whether it is possible to do without replacing the fuse using a “bug” or twisting. The answer is categorical: it is impossible. The No Frost system operates at high temperatures inside the hidden box, and the lack of protection is fraught with fire. In addition, many users confuse the fuse with a temperature sensor, which leads to the purchase of unnecessary spare parts.
Another nuance concerns models with the system Full No Frost. They may have two evaporators (separately for the refrigerator and freezer compartments) and, accordingly, two fuses. If the cold has disappeared in only one chamber, you need to look for a fault in the circuit of this particular chamber. However, most often in two-chamber Ariston there is only one evaporator, located in the freezer, and the cold is supplied to the upper chamber by air.
If, after replacing all the elements, the refrigerator still does not work correctly, perhaps the problem lies in a freon leak or a compressor malfunction, which requires calling a technician with equipment to charge and vacuum the system. It is almost impossible to eliminate a leak in a foamed circuit on your own.
Is it possible to temporarily short-circuit the fuse to check the operation of the refrigerator?
It is strictly not recommended. A short-term switching on without a fuse (for 1-2 minutes) is only possible for diagnosing the heating element circuit, but leaving the refrigerator to operate without protection is dangerous. If the defrost sensor is faulty, the heating element will heat constantly, which will lead to melting of the plastic and a fire.
Which analogue is suitable for an Ariston refrigerator if there is no original?
Any universal thermal fuse with an operating temperature of 72-75°C and a current of at least 10A will do (for example, KSD9700 or similar cylindrical). The main thing is that the dimensions allow it to be installed in its normal place, and the wires can withstand temperatures up to 150°C.
Why does the fuse burn out immediately after replacement?
This indicates that the cause of the breakdown has not been eliminated. With a 90% probability, the defrost sensor is faulty (it does not open the circuit) or the relay on the control board is stuck. A short circuit in the heating element itself is also possible. It is necessary to ring the entire defrost circuit.
Where is the fuse located in older Ariston models without No Frost?
In models with a drip system (“crying” evaporator), there may not be a separate thermal fuse in the chamber. Protection is provided only by a thermal relay on the compressor. If the refrigerator does not turn on, check the start relay and thermal release in the lower compartment.