Where non-ferrous metal is hidden in the refrigerator: a complete disassembly guide for scrapping

Old refrigerators are a real treasure trove for those who collect them non-ferrous scrap metal. Hidden in their design are kilograms of copper, aluminum, brass and even silver-containing contacts, which receiving centers value at 2-5 times more expensive than ordinary ferrous metal. But where exactly to look for these valuable components? How to carefully remove them without damaging yourself and your equipment? And what parts of the refrigerator Samsung, Indesit or Atlant will bring maximum profit upon delivery?

In this article we will analyze step-by-step anatomy of a refrigerator from the point of view scrap metal: from a compressor with copper windings to aluminum evaporator tubes. You will learn what tools are needed for dismantling, how to distinguish valuable alloys from unnecessary iron, and why the capacitor on the back wall of the refrigerator can contain up to 1.5 kg of pure copper in Soviet-made models. And also - what mistakes during disassembly cost more than the scrap itself.

1. What non-ferrous metals are in the refrigerator and where are they most?

On average, one refrigerator contains from 3 to 8 kg of non-ferrous metal, and the distribution depends on the year of manufacture and model. Modern inverter compressors (LG Linear Compressor, Samsung Digital Inverter) contain less copper than old piston compressors, but they contain more aluminum and electronic circuit boards with precious metals. Here are the main sources:

• 🔧 Copper (Cu): compressor winding, condenser and evaporator tubes, electrical wiring, start relay. The most valuable metal —receivers pay up to 700-900 rubles/kg (for 2026).
• 🥇 Aluminum (Al): radiator grilles, parts housings, some tubes in new models. Price - 150-250 rubles/kg.
• 🟡 Brass (Cu+Zn alloy): fittings, valves, fasteners. Paid as copper or a little cheaper.
• 💻 Precious metals (Au, Ag, Pd): control board microcircuits, relay contacts. There are grams of them in one refrigerator, but with a large volume of change this is plus 5-15% of the cost.

The most “metal-intensive” part is compressor. In models produced before 2000 (for example ZIL-63, Minsk-15M), its weight reached 20 kg, of which 2-3 kg was pure copper in the winding. Modern compressors (Embraco, Secop) are lighter, but they contain aluminum parts, which are also available at a good price.

2. Step-by-step disassembly: where to start and what tools are needed

Before you grab the grinder, de-energize the refrigerator and let it sit for 12-24 hours - freon may remain in the system under pressure. For work you will need:

• 🔨 Tools: screwdrivers (phillips, flat), 8-19 mm wrenches, pliers, grinder with a cutting wheel for metal, wire cutters.
• 🛡️ Protection: gloves (preferably rubberized), glasses, respirator (when cutting copper, harmful dust is generated).
• 📦 For sorting: bags or boxes for copper, aluminum, iron, electronic boards.

Start with rear panel — 60-70% of all non-ferrous metal is concentrated here:

Remove the back cover (usually attached to 4-6 screws)

Disconnect the compressor (cut the tubes with wire cutters, unscrew the fasteners)

Remove the condenser (the grille at the back is pure copper or aluminum)

Remove the start relay (in the black plastic box on the compressor)

Remove the evaporator (inside the freezer, under the plastic panel)-->

Attention to the capacitor! In old refrigerators (Biryusa-3, Oka-6) it is made of copper tubes with aluminum fins. New models (Liebherr, Beko) often use an all-aluminum structure - it is cheaper, but weighs more. To avoid making a mistake, scratch the tube with a knife: copper will leave a reddish mark, aluminum will leave a silvery mark.

3. Compressor: how to get copper and not lose money

A compressor is the "heart" of the refrigerator and the main source of copper. Its body contains a winding of copper wire 1-2 mm thick, which weighs from 0.8 to 2.5 kg, depending on the model. Here's how to extract it:

1. Bite off the tubes connecting the compressor to the system (use wire cutters or a grinder). Be careful - drops of oil or freon may remain in them.

2. Unscrew 3-4 bolts securing the compressor to the frame. In some models (Atlant XM-4026) it is additionally fixed with spring hangers.

3. Remove the start relay (black plastic block with wires) - there are also copper contacts inside it.

4. Saw the compressor housing grinder along the seam (usually it is visible along the line of connection of the two halves). Do not cut deep - there is a winding inside!

5. Remove the stator with the copper winding. In Soviet compressors (DH-120, FG-0.14), the copper is pure, in modern ones it can be varnished - it needs to be burned off with a blowtorch.

Pay attention to compressor marking. If it says R134a or R600a, this is modern freon - it can be handed over separately (recycling points accept it). In older models (R12), freon is toxic - it is better to disassemble such compressors on the street.

How to distinguish high-purity copper?

Pure copper (99.9% Cu) has a bright red tint on the cut, bends without cracks and is not magnetic. If the wires are coated with black varnish - this is enameled copper, it is accepted at 10-15% cheaper. Brass (an alloy with zinc) is yellower and harder, aluminum is light and silvery.

⚠️ Attention: Don’t try disassemble the compressor with hammer blows - this will damage the winding and reduce the copper output. If the body does not give in, use a puller or heat the seam with a blowtorch.

4. Condenser and evaporator: where is the “golden grill” hidden

The condenser (that same grille on the back wall) and the evaporator (coil in the freezer) are the second most valuable sources of metal. In old refrigerators (ZIL, Orsk), the condenser is made of copper tubes with aluminum fins, in new ones (Samsung RL34, Indesit DF 4180) it is often entirely made of aluminum.

How to dismantle:

1. Break the tubes connecting the condenser to the system (usually 2-3 pieces).

2. Unscrew the fastenings of the grille to the body (self-tapping screws or latches).

3. Carefully separate the copper tubes from the aluminum fins. If they are soldered, use a grinder with a thin circle.

The evaporator is located inside the freezer, under the plastic panel. In models with the system No Frost (Liebherr CN 4015) it is hidden behind the rear wall and is an aluminum radiator with copper tubes. In refrigerators with a drip system (Atlant MHM 1705), the evaporator is often entirely copper - its weight can reach 1.5 kg.

⚠️ Attention: When disassembling the evaporator No Frost do not damage the aluminum plates - they are accepted at the price of aluminum (150-200 rubles/kg), but they weigh a lot (up to 3-4 kg in large models).

5. Electronics and small parts: where to look for precious metals

Modern electronically controlled refrigerators (Samsung RB37J5240SA, LG GA-B489YGQZ) have an additional source of income - printed circuit boards. They contain gold, silver and palladium in contacts and chips. Where to look for them:

• 📱 Main control board —usually located at the top of the refrigerator, under the lid (marking MAIN PCB).
• 🔌 Board display —in models with touch control (Bosch KAN92VI30R).
• ⚡ Relays and starting capacitors —in black plastic boxes on the compressor.

How to remove valuable components:

1. Solder all large chips, transistors and connectors (use a soldering iron with a power 60-100 W).

2. Collect all the gold contacts (they have a characteristic yellow color).

3. Separate the boards from the plastic cases - they are accepted separately as "electronic scrap".

The average board from the refrigerator weighs 100-300 grams, but with a large volume delivery (from 10 kg), collection points pay up to 50-100 rub/kg for electronic scrap + additional payment for precious metals. For example, relay contacts Danfoss 103N0240 contain up to 0.1 grams of silver each.

6. How to prepare metal for delivery: cleaning, sorting, packaging

To get the maximum price for scrap, it you need to properly prepare:

1. Cleaning:

   • Remove any remaining solder and varnish from the copper tubes (use sandpaper or a blowtorch).
   • Cut off the plastic tips and rubber seals.
   • Rinse parts from oil (can be gasoline or solvent).

2. Sorting:

   • 🟤 Pure copper (wires, uncoated tubes).
   • 🟡 Copper in insulation/varnish (winding, enameled wires).
   • ⚪ Aluminum (capacitor fins, housing).
   • ⚫ Brass (fittings, valves).
   • 💻 Electronic scrap (boards, contacts).

Packaging:

• Put copper and brass separately, without mixing.
• Aluminum can be packed in one bag, but without iron.
• Put electronic scrap in box, having first removed the batteries.

⚠️ Attention: Some collection points reduce the price for “dirty” metal (with residual solder, paint or oil) by 10-30%. For example, varnish-coated copper can be accepted at a price of 500 rubles/kg instead of 800 rubles/kg. Always check the requirements for sorting. to trips. point!

7. How much you can earn: calculation of profit from one refrigerator

Profit from disassembling a refrigerator depends on its age, model and current prices for scrap metal. Here is an approximate calculation for typical ones. cases:

Refrigerator model	Weight of copper, kg	Weight of aluminum, kg	Electronic scrap, kg	Profit (2026), rub.
ZIL-63 (USSR, 1980s)	3.2	1.5	0.1	3500–4200
Indesit C138G (2000s)	1.8	2.0	0.3	2200–2800
Samsung RL-34 (2010s, No Frost)	1.2	3.5	0.5	1800–2400
Atlant MHM 1705 (2015 g.)	1.5	2.2	0.2	2000–2600

Soviet refrigerators bring more profit due to their high copper content, but they are more difficult to disassemble. Modern models (Liebherr, Bosh) contain less non-ferrous metal, but they contain more aluminum and electronic components.

Where to hand over? Look for items reception with a license to work with non-ferrous scrap metal. Check prices by phone - they may differ by 10-20% even in neighboring areas. Some points offer on-site assessment for large quantities (from 50 kg).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about dismantling refrigerators for metal

❓ Do you need to drain freon before disassembling?

Yes, if the refrigerator has been operating for the last 1-2 years, up to 100-150 grams of freon can remain in the system. under pressure. In modern models (R600a, R134a) it is harmless, but in old ones (R12, R22) it is toxic. To drain the freon, cut the tube with wire cutters at a distance of 10-15 cm from the compressor and let the gas escape outside (not indoors!).

❓ How to distinguish copper from brass and bronze?

Carry out a test:

• Color: copper - reddish, brass - yellow, bronze - brown.
• Hardness: copper bends easily, brass and bronze - with effort.
• Sound: when struck, a copper object makes a dull sound, brass/bronze makes a ringing sound.
• Magnet: none of these metals are magnetic, but brass may be weakly attracted due to iron impurities.

For accuracy, use a metal tester (costs 500-1000 rubles on AliExpress).

❓ Is it possible to sell the entire compressor?

Yes, but it is less profitable. the compressor is accepted as “mixed scrap” at a price of 100-150 rubles/kg (instead of 700-900 rubles/kg for pure copper). The exception is working compressors for models that are still in use (Atlant, StinolThey can be sold on Avito or to service centers at a price of 1500-3000 rubles/piece). data-i="258">Atlant

❓ What to do with plastic and polyurethane foam from the refrigerator?

Polyurethane foam (yellow foam in the walls) and plastic (case, shelves) can be recycled as secondary raw materials, but the price low:

• Polyurethane foam - 5-10 rub/kg (not all items are accepted).
• ABS plastic (body) - 15-30 rub/kg.
• PP plastic (shelves, drawers) - 20-40 rub/kg.

Before delivery, remove metal fasteners and stickers. Some points accept plastic only in pressed form (packages of 20-30 kg).

❓ Is it dangerous to disassemble the refrigerator yourself?

Main risks:

• Freon: in older models (R12) can cause poisoning. Work outdoors or in a ventilated area.
• Compressor oil: when heated, it emits toxic fumes.
• Sharp edges: use gloves and goggles when cutting metal.
• Dust from polyurethane foam: irritate the lungs.

If the refrigerator has been in operation for more than 20 years, check it for the presence of asbestos (in some models it was used as an insulator). Asbestos dust is carcinogenic - it is better to take such parts to a specialized recycling point.