Buying a new refrigerator is always a joyful event, marking the beginning of comfortable operation of the equipment, but its correct installation becomes the first priority. Many owners, when encountering large household appliances for the first time, do not know that the compressor inside the unit is securely fixed with special fasteners that must be removed before turning it on. If you are looking for where the refrigerator's shipping bolts are, photos and detailed diagrams will help you quickly navigate the design and avoid typical beginner mistakes.
Ignoring the need to remove these elements can lead to serious mechanical damage, since the moving parts of the motor will not be able to function normally. In this article, we will take a detailed look at the design of the back panel, show what the fasteners look like, and explain why their removal is a critical step in preparation for the first launch. Shipping bolts This is not just a formality, but a vital part of logistics protection that must be properly dismantled.
Structural features of fastening the compressor during transportation
The refrigeration unit is designed in such a way that its heart - the compressor - is suspended on special springs inside a metal casing. This shock absorption system is necessary for quiet operation and dampening of vibrations that occur during operation. However, when transported on roads with uneven surfaces or when carried along flights of stairs, such moving elements pose a huge danger to the integrity of the entire system.
To prevent metal parts from hitting each other and breaking tubes, manufacturing plants rigidly fix the compressor to the base frame. For this purpose, shipping bolts or, in some models, wooden blocks and staples are used. They turn the moving system into a monolith, eliminating any displacement. You can usually find them on the back wall of the device, in the lower part where the motor is located.
The design of the fasteners may vary depending on the brand and model. For example, in technology Liebherr or Siemens long bolts passing through rubber bushings are often used. While in budget models Indesit or Atlant simpler screw connections with wide washers can be used. Understanding this difference will help you quickly identify elements that require dismantling.
Visual identification: what the bolts look like in photos and in real life
Visually finding the mounting points is not difficult if you know what to look for. Transport bolts usually located symmetrically on the sides of the compressor or passing through its housing and frame. In photographs and in reality, they look like massive cap screws or a screwdriver, often accompanied by spring washers or metal plates.
Particular attention should be paid to the rubber bushings that are often placed on these bolts. They serve to soften vibrations, but in the transport position they are clamped as tightly as possible. If you see that a long metal rod passes through the rubber gasket, which connects the moving part of the motor to the fixed base, this is exactly the element that needs to be removed.
- 🔩 Bolted connection: classic version, where a long bolt passes through the frame and legs of the compressor, secured with a nut on the reverse side.
- 🛠️ Screws with wide heads: often found in models Beko i Candy, they are screwed directly into the threaded holes of the frame, pressing the compressor.
- 🧱 Wooden or plastic spacers: in some old or specific models, instead of bolts, bars can be used, secured self-tapping screws that rest against the motor housing.
It is important not to confuse the shipping fasteners with the usual fasteners of the compressor casing itself. The latter cannot be touched, as they hold the structure together. Transport bolts always have an obvious “assembly” appearance and are often highlighted with color or markings on the factory diagram, which can be pasted on the back wall.
Why do bolts sometimes rust?
If the refrigerator has been in a warehouse for a long time or transported in conditions of high humidity, the heads of the transport bolts may oxidize. This is not a defect, but a normal reaction of the metal. Before unscrewing, it is recommended to treat them with a penetrating lubricant, for example, WD-40, and wait 10-15 minutes.
Step-by-step instructions for removing fasteners
The process of removing fasteners does not require high qualifications, but requires care and adherence to the sequence of actions. Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply, if it has already been connected, and provide free access to the rear wall. You will need a set of tools, which usually comes with appliances or is in every home.
First, inspect the back panel. Locate the compressor (the black or gray metal "tank" at the bottom). Next to it you will see bolts sticking out. In some models, for example, LG or Samsung, access to them may be slightly difficult due to protruding parts of the case, so you may need to carefully tilt the unit (but do not place it horizontally!).
☑️ Algorithm for removing transportation bolts
Unscrew smoothly, without jerking. If the bolt is tight, do not use excessive force to avoid stripping the threads or damaging the compressor feet. It's better to swing the wrench from side to side to loosen the connection. After removing the bolt, pay attention to the rubber bushing - it should remain in place or be easily removed, returning the compressor to mobility.
After all the bolts have been removed, rock the compressor by hand (with the power off!). It should move freely on its springs. If there is no mobility, check if there is a forgotten fastener or retainer somewhere. Only after making sure that the motor is completely free can you begin to install the refrigerator in place.
Table of bolt locations in popular models
Different manufacturers use different engineering solutions for fixing units. Below is a summary table that will help you navigate the mounting features depending on the brand. Remember that modifications may change, so visual inspection always takes precedence over general data.
| Refrigerator brand | Number of bolts | Location | Tool type |
|---|---|---|---|
| Atlant | 2 or 4 pcs. | Front and rear of the compressor, through | Wrench for 12 or 13 |
| Indesit | 2 pcs. | On the sides of the motor base | Phillips screwdriver |
| Liebherr | 4 pcs. | Two in front, two in back, long | Key for 10 |
| Beko | 2 pcs. | Front, pressed to frame | Key or head for 10 |
| Stinol | 2-4 pcs. | Symmetrically on the sides | Open-end wrench |
As can be seen from the table, standard metric threads are most often used, for which ordinary wrenches are suitable. However, in some cases, especially with built-in appliances, access may be limited, and a tool with an extended handle or ratchet will be required.
Consequences of starting with the bolts installed
⚠️ Attention: Starting the refrigerator with the transport bolts installed is guaranteed to lead to a breakdown of the compressor in the first minutes of operation.
The mechanism of operation of the refrigeration motor involves reciprocating movement of the pistons, which creates vibration. In normal mode, this vibration is damped by the suspension springs. If the compressor is bolted tightly, the vibration is transmitted directly to the housing and internal mechanisms, without having an outlet.
This leads to several critical problems:
- 🔊 Extreme noise: the refrigerator will rumble so that the neighbors will hear it, the sound will resemble the work of a jackhammer.
- 🔥 Overheating: lack of normal damping and increased friction cause rapid heating of the motor windings.
- 💥 Destruction of the suspension: springs, being under constant tension and not working as shock absorbers, can burst or deform.
- 🔌 Breakage of tubes: in the worst case, the inertia of a massive motor can lead to separation of copper tubes from the fittings, which will cause freon leakage.
If you turned on the refrigerator and heard uncharacteristic clanging sound, immediately unplug the power cord. Allow the unit to cool for a few hours before removing the bolts and trying to start again. Continuing operation in this mode turns the repair from preventive to major with the replacement of the compressor.
Frequently asked questions and troubleshooting problems
Even with instructions, users often have situational questions related to specific nuances of their model. For example, owners often ask what to do if one of the bolts is rusty and won't budge. In this case, you should not use brute force. Treat the connection with rust remover, lightly tap the bolt head (gently!) and try to unscrew it after an exposure of 20 minutes.
Another common question: “Do I need to remove the plastic plugs?” Often the holes into which the transport bolts are screwed remain open after dismantling. Factories recommend closing them with complete plugs or simply leaving them as is if the design does not imply moisture ingress. The main thing is not to leave the bolts sticking out so that they do not vibrate.
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics and location of elements may vary depending on the year of manufacture of the model. Always check the paper instructions included in the box, or download the current version of the manual from the manufacturer’s official website.
It is also worth mentioning situations when there seem to be no bolts. In modern models, especially built-in or compact ones, manufacturers sometimes use a system of latches or wooden spacers that do not require unscrewing, but are simply removed or knocked out. Carefully inspect the space around the motor.
Final installation recommendations
Proper dismantling of shipping elements is only the first step to the long life of your refrigerator. After removing the bolts, let the equipment stand in an upright position for at least 2-4 hours (and if the transportation was lying down, then for 24 hours). This is necessary so that oil that gets into the refrigerant circuit during transportation flows back into the compressor.
Make sure that the refrigerator is level. Use a spirit level and adjustable feet. Uneven installation can cause noise, which users often mistake as the result of loose bolts. Adjusting the legs is also important for doors to close properly.
Keeping a set of bolts is important not only for moving. In the case of warranty repairs, service centers often require shipping equipment to safely transport the device. Fold them into a bag and tape them to the back wall or put them in a document box.
What to do if, after removing the bolts, the refrigerator still makes a lot of noise?
If you are sure that all the shipping fasteners have been removed, but the noise remains, check the distance to the wall (at least 5-10 cm for ventilation), the flatness of the floor and the absence of contact of the back wall with the furniture. Also, noise can be made by the fan or the compressor itself if there is a malfunction, which requires calling a technician.
Is it possible to transport a refrigerator without shipping bolts?
It is strictly not recommended. Without fixation, the compressor will hit the casing walls every time the machine turns, which will lead to pipe breakage and depressurization of the system. If the bolts are lost, it is necessary to make temporary clamps or tightly cover the compressor with soft material (foam rubber, foam), securing it from movement.
Where can I find a diagram for my specific model?
The bolt location diagram is usually located in the "Installation" or "First Start" section of the operating instructions. Also, visual guides are often available on manufacturers’ YouTube channels or on specialized forums for repairing household appliances.