Users often encounter a situation where a technical malfunction is described by strange phrases such as “gorin in the refrigerator.” This popular name can hide several different problems: from simple overheating of the compressor to failure of the heating elements of the defrost system. Understanding the exact cause is the key to quickly and inexpensively repairing household appliances.
In most cases, when they say that the refrigerator is “burning” or “burning”, they mean either visual signs (melting, sparking) or temperature anomalies (too hot compressor, hot evaporator). It is important not to panic, but to consistently diagnose the device. Safety here comes first, so any work begins only after the device is completely disconnected from the power supply.
Modern refrigerators, be it Indesit, Atlant or LG, have complex electrical circuits where any failure can lead to overheating of the contacts. Independent replacement of wiring or sensors without understanding the electrical circuit diagram can lead to a short circuit and complete failure control board. That is why it is so important to clearly identify where exactly the problem is observed: on the back wall, inside the camera or in the control unit.
Diagnostics of compressor and motor overheating
The most common complaint, which can be interpreted as “gorin”, concerns excessive heating of the compressor. During operation, the motor-compressor heats up to 60-90 degrees Celsius, which is normal, but if it heats up to a state where it is impossible to touch it, or emits a burning smell, this is a signal of a malfunction. Thermal relay in such cases it should operate and turn off the power, but if this does not happen, there is a risk of fire.
Overheating is often caused by a jammed piston or wear of the mechanical parts of the compressor. This also results from working in non-stopmode, when the refrigerator cannot reach the desired temperature due to a freon leak or a circuit leak. In such situations, the motor works hard, trying to compensate for the lack of cold.
⚠️ Attention: If you smell a persistent smell of burnt insulation or see smoke from the compressor area, immediately unplug the cord from the outlet. Continuing operation in this condition is strictly prohibited!
Another factor causing overheating is contamination of the condenser (the grille at the back of the refrigerator). Dust and animal hair create a “fur coat” that interferes with heat transfer. Fan (if it is in the model) begins to drive hot air rather than cool the radiator. As a result, the pressure in the system increases, the load on the compressor increases, and it begins to “burn.”
You can use multimeterto check the condition of the compressor. It is necessary to ring the windings for short circuits or breaks. If the resistance between the ground contacts and the winding shows zero or a value close to it, then an insulation breakdown has occurred. This is a fatal diagnosis for the motor - it will have to be changed.
☑️ Checking the condition of the compressor
Problems with the defrost system and heating elements
In refrigerators with the system No Frost or Frost Free problems often arise with heating elements, which users can also describe as “gorin”. The heating element (tubular electric heater) is designed to defrost the evaporator, but if it fails, it can burn out or, conversely, heat continuously, melting plastic parts.
If the heating element is "stuck" in the on state due to a malfunction defrost thermostat or timer, the temperature in the evaporator can rise to critical values. The plastic of the air ducts and drip tray begins to melt, emitting an unpleasant odor. Visually, this looks like deformation of the plastic elements behind the back panel of the freezer.
A frequent cause of the malfunction is a broken spiral inside the heating element. In this case, the defrosting system stops working, the evaporator becomes overgrown with ice, the fan begins to make noise, touching the ice crust, and the refrigerator stops cooling. Diagnostics requires removing the back panel in the freezer and visually inspecting the heater for blackening or ruptures.
How to check the heating element with a multimeter?
Switch the multimeter to resistance measurement mode (Ohms). Connect the probes to the contacts of the heating element. If the device shows a resistance within 200-500 Ohms (depending on the model), the heater is working. If the screen shows “1” or “OL” (infinity), the heating element is burnt out and requires replacement.
Faults in the starting relay and wiring
Another area where burnout often occurs in the literal sense of the word is the compressor starting relay. This small plastic block, placed over the motor contacts, is responsible for starting the engine. Inside it there is a coil and contacts, which, with frequent power surges, can burn, spark and melt.
If you hear clicks when you try to start the refrigerator, and then see a flash or smell burning plastic, most likely the start relay has burned out. Contact the inside of it could have oxidized or welded to each other. Replacing this element is one of the most frequent and inexpensive procedures in refrigerator repair.
Wiring also requires attention. In older models, the insulation dries out over time, especially in the (high temperature) area near the compressor. Bare wires can short-circuit to the housing, causing breakdown. Terminal blocksconnecting wires can also melt due to poor contact (loose screws), which leads to heating of the connection and fire of the plastic.
⚠️ Attention: When replacing starting relay, strictly follow the markings. Relays for different compressor models (for example, Danfoss or Atlant) are not always interchangeable. Installing an unsuitable relay will cause the compressor windings to burn out.
To eliminate wiring problems, you must completely de-energize the device. All melted sections of wires must be cleaned and reconnected, preferably using soldering and heat-shrink tubing rather than simple twisting. Under conditions of vibration and temperature changes, twists quickly oxidize and heat up.
Failures in the electronic control module
In modern refrigerators with electronic control (where there is a display and buttons), the cause of the "burning" may be a malfunction control unit. Electronic components on the board - capacitors, transistors, varistors - can swell, burst and smoke during voltage surges in the network.
Often a varistor, an element that protects the board from overvoltage, fails. With a strong jump, it takes the blow and burns, sometimes with a bang and sparks. Visually on the board it looks like a blackened area or a swollen component. The smell of burnt electronics in this case will be very specific and pungent.
If the control module is burned out, the refrigerator may behave inappropriately: turn the lights on and off chaotically, not respond to buttons, or, conversely, work without stopping. Repairing the board yourself is only possible if you have the skills to work with a soldering iron and knowledge of radio engineering. In most cases, it is easier and more reliable to replace the module with a new or restored one.
Table of symptoms and possible causes
To simplify diagnostics, below is a table that helps compare the observed symptoms with the most likely causes of the malfunction. This will help you quickly figure out which part needs to be checked first.
You should not ignore even the slightest signs of overheating. Timely replacement of cheap parts (such as relays or heating elements) will save an expensive compressor from overload. Prevention always cheaper than major repairs.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|
| Intense heating of the compressor, humming | Faulty compressor or dirty condenser | Clean the rear grille, check the freon, ring the windings |
| Burning smell, sparks in the engine area | The starting relay has burned out or there is a wiring breakdown | Replace the starting relay, check the integrity of the wires |
| Melted plastic in the freezer | Defective defrost heating element or thermostat | Check the heating element and defrost thermostat, replace defective elements |
| Smell of burnt electronics, display failures | The control module (board) is burned out | Replacement or repair of the electronic control module |
| The refrigerator does not turn off, the body is warm | Freon leak or compressor wear | Call a technician to find the leak and refrigerant charging |
Safety rules and prevention
To avoid situations associated with overheating and “burnout”, you must follow the operating rules. First of all, this concerns the placement of the refrigerator. You cannot place it close to the wall, in a niche without ventilation or next to heating devices. Air gap around the condenser is required for normal operation.
Regular cleaning is the key to a long life of the equipment. Once every six months, it is recommended to move the refrigerator aside and vacuum the back grille and the area under it. The dust accumulated there acts as a heat insulator, causing the motor to overload. It is also worth checking the integrity of the power cord and socket: if the plug is hot, it means there is poor contact in the connector.
Do not overload the refrigerator with food and do not put hot food in it. This creates an additional thermal load on the system, forcing the compressor to work longer and harder, which reduces its life. Compliance with these simple rules will minimize the risk of emergency situations.
When you need to call a specialist
Although many faults, such as replacing a lamp or cleaning a capacitor, can be done independently, there are situations when you cannot do without a professional. If the problem lies in refrigeration circuit (freon leak, capillary tube blockage, compressor replacement), a specialized tool is required: a vacuum pump, a pressure gauge station, a soldering torch.
An independent attempt to solder the tubes or refilling with freon without experience often leads to damage to the compressor (moisture or air entering the system). Freon is not just a gas, but a refrigerant that requires precise dosage and evacuation of the system before refilling.
⚠️ Attention: Opening the sealed the refrigerator circuit without a license and special equipment is prohibited and dangerous. In addition, this deprives you of the warranty on the equipment, if it is still valid.
It is also worth contacting specialists if, after replacing the relay or heating element, the problem does not go away. This may indicate a deeper problem that is difficult to diagnose without experience. A professional technician will be able to determine exactly why the failure occurred and prevent the situation from reoccurring.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if it emits a burning smell?
Absolutely not. A burning smell indicates melting insulation or overheating of components. This is a direct threat of fire. It is necessary to immediately disconnect the device from the network and carry out diagnostics.
How much does it cost to replace the start relay?
The relay itself is inexpensive (usually from 500 to 1500 rubles depending on the model), but if you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to call a specialist, since incorrect installation can kill the compressor.
Why is the compressor hot, but the refrigerator does not freeze?
This is a classic sign of a freon leak or capillary tube obstruction. The compressor circulates gas (or tries to do so), but there is no cooling capacity. The circuit needs to be repaired.
How often do you need to defrost the refrigerator to avoid problems?
Refrigerators with the system No Frost do not require defrosting. Conventional models (with or without a drip system) are recommended to be defrosted manually at least once every 6 months or when a layer of ice forms more than 5 mm.
Is it dangerous if the socket in which the refrigerator is plugged in sparks?
Yes, it is very dangerous. This indicates poor contact or network overload. You urgently need to turn off the refrigerator, replace the socket and check the condition of the plug and power cord.