The situation when Indesit refrigerator the upper chamber stops cooling, but the freezer compartment continues to operate as normal, is one of the most common complaints from the owners of this equipment. This asymmetry of temperature conditions often takes you by surprise: the unit seems to be humming, the light in the compartment is on, but the food in the main compartment begins to deteriorate. Most often, this indicates a violation of the refrigerant circulation or malfunctions in the control system, and not a complete breakdown of the compressor.
Unlike models with the No Frost system, where cooling occurs evenly throughout the entire volume, in two-chamber refrigerators with a weeping evaporator, the cold is transferred from the freezer to the top. If this process is disrupted, the top becomes warm. Understanding the physics of the process allows you to narrow down the scope of troubleshooting and avoid unnecessary expenses on calling a technician to diagnose simple problems.
It is important not to ignore the first signs of insufficient cooling, since prolonged operation of equipment in emergency mode can lead to failure of an expensive compressor. In this article, we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electrical causes of the malfunction, and also consider an action algorithm that will help you determine the nature of the breakdown.
The operating principle and specifics of two-chamber systems
To understand why Indesit refrigerator does not maintain the temperature in the upper compartment, you need to understand the design of the device. Classic two-chamber models use one compressor and one evaporator located in the freezer compartment. Cold air naturally falls down, but in refrigerators with a top freezer or a “crying wall” system, convection or special channels are used to supply cold to the main chamber.
The key element here is the thermostat (thermostat). It measures the temperature in the evaporator or in the chamber itself and gives a command to turn the compressor on or off. If the thermostat is not set correctly or is faulty, the compressor may turn off too early, not having time to cool the upper compartment, although the temperature in the freezer has already reached the desired values.
There is also the concept of a “quiet zone”, where air circulation is limited. In older models Indesit without fans (No Frost), the cold is distributed slowly. If you have just loaded a large amount of warm food, the system may not be able to handle the heat shock. However, if the problem persists for more than a day, there is a technical fault.
Mechanical reasons: blockages, ice and doors
One of the most commonplace, but common reasons why the refrigerator does not freeze at the topis a violation of the tightness of the main compartment door. If the rubber seal (cuff) is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. The compressor tries to compensate for the heat, working without stopping, but due to the design features of heat transfer, the cold simply does not have time to spread to the top shelf.
The second important factor is the formation of a “snow coat” on the evaporator, which is hidden behind the back wall. In models with manual defrosting or a “crying wall” system, the layer of ice can become so thick that it blocks the cold drain channels into the main chamber. As a result, the freezer operates at maximum capacity, and there is heat on top.
- ❄️ Seal failure: Check the fit of the door using a sheet of paper. If it easily pulls out when the door is closed, the seal requires replacement or adjustment of the hinges.
- 🧊 Ice plug: Excessive freezing of the evaporator blocks heat exchange. Complete defrosting of the unit is required within 10-12 hours.
- 🚪 Case deformation: A skewed refrigerator (the legs are not adjusted) may prevent the door from closing tightly, disrupting the temperature regime.
☑️ Diagnosis of mechanical problems
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to pick out the ice with a knife or sharp objects! Damage to the evaporator tubes will lead to an immediate release of freon and expensive repairs, which are often not economically feasible.
It is also worth paying attention to the loading of the chambers. If food is placed close to the back wall, it may block the flow of cold air. In models Indesit with a drip system, it is important to maintain a distance from the rear panel of at least 2-3 cm for normal circulation of air masses.
Faults of the thermostat and sensors
If no mechanical obstacles are found, the likely cause is failure of the thermostat. This element is responsible for turning the motor-compressor on and off depending on the temperature in the chamber. Refrigerators Indesit often have thermostats of the brand Tamara or K-59installed. If they break down, the compressor may either not turn on at all, or, which is more typical in our case, turn off prematurely.
The symptoms are as follows: the freezer works because it is closer to the source of cold and cools faster, and the thermostat, “sensing” the cold (or receiving a false signal), turns off the system. The upper chamber does not have time to cool down. In models with electronic control, air sensors are responsible for this process, which can also give incorrect readings.
Replacing the thermostat is a procedure that can be done with your own hands if you have basic skills. However, it is important to choose the right analogue, since the length of the capillary tube and the temperature range of operation may differ. An incorrectly selected regulator will result in the refrigerator either “not freezing” or overfreezing food.
Problems with refrigerant: freon leak
The most serious technical problem in which the freezer is working, but the refrigerator is warmis a refrigerant (freon) leak. A microcrack may form in the system, through which the gas gradually evaporates. When the amount of freon drops below a critical level, it is no longer enough for the entire volume of the evaporator. The refrigerator compartment (upper) simply does not receive the required amount of refrigerant, while the freezer, located at the beginning of the circuit, is still able to maintain a low temperature.
It is almost impossible to diagnose a leak visually, since freon is colorless and odorless. An indirect sign may be that the condenser grille (on the rear wall) remains only partially cold or warm. Also, the compressor can work almost without interruption, trying to gain temperature, but never turning off.
Restoring the system in this case requires calling a specialist. The technician must find the location of the leak (often these are foamed sections of the housing or pipe joints), solder them, evacuate the system and fill in a new volume of freon strictly by weight. It is impossible to perform this operation independently without equipment.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Nature of compressor operation | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|---|
| Top is warm, bottom cold | Freon leak | Works without stopping | High (needs a technician) |
| Temperature floats | Thermostat is faulty | Short cycles or long downtime | Medium (you can do it yourself) |
| Ice on the wall | Capillary clogged / Ice | Noisy, intermittent | Medium/High |
| Heat in all chambers | Compressor burned out | Does not turn on or hums | High |
Clogged capillary tube
Another technical malfunction that leads to the symptoms described is a clogged capillary tube. There is a very narrow section in the freon circulation system where the liquid refrigerant turns into gas. Over time, oil oxidation products, moisture or technical dirt remaining after poor-quality previous repairs can get there.
If clogged, the refrigerant circulation is disrupted. The pressure in the system increases and the compressor operates with overload, but there is no cold in the upper chamber, since the freon does not reach the evaporator in the required volume or does not have time to expand and cool. This is often accompanied by an unusual sound from the motor or its overheating.
To eliminate the blockage, it is necessary to “squeeze” the system with nitrogen under high pressure or replace the filter drier and capillary tube. This is a complex technical procedure that requires opening the filling circuit. If your refrigerator is more than 10 years old, repairs may cost more than the residual value of the appliance.
⚠️ Attention: If after defrosting for 24 hours the problem has not disappeared and the compressor is running continuously, most likely the problem is not ice, but a blockage or leak. Further operation in this mode will finish off the motor.
Self-diagnosis algorithm
Before calling a technician, it is worth performing a number of actions that will help accurately describe the problem or, perhaps, solve it yourself. The first step is complete defrosting. Unplug Indesit refrigerator from the network, remove all food and leave the doors open for at least 12, and preferably 24 hours. This is necessary to melt the ice in the hidden channels and on the evaporator.
After defrosting, turn on the device empty. Wait 5-6 hours. If the temperature in the upper chamber began to drop, then the cause was a “snow coat”. If the situation repeats itself after a couple of days, then the problem is deeper. Check the operation of the thermostat: turn the temperature control knob. If there are no characteristic clicks and the motor does not respond to changes in the position of the regulator, it is likely to break down.
- 🔌 Checking the network: Make sure that the mains voltage is stable. Surges can cause electronic failures.
- 🔊 Noise audit: Listen for gurgling or hissing. This may indicate freon movement or a lack of freon.
- 🌡️ Temperature control: Use a separate thermometer, placing it in a glass of water on the middle shelf to get objective data.
How to check the thermostat multimeter?
To check, remove the thermostat and wait until it warms up to room temperature. Switch the multimeter to dialing mode. Connect the probes to the thermostat contacts. If the device shows a “break” (infinity), it means that the contacts are not closing and the thermostat is faulty. If it shows “0” or a similar value, the circuit is intact. You can also lower the sensitive element into cold water with ice - the contacts should open.
When you need to call a specialist
There is a clear limit when independent repair becomes dangerous or pointless. If the diagnosis indicates a freon leak, a clogged capillary, or a malfunction of the compressor itself (hydraulic knocking, failure to start, breakdown in the housing), professional intervention cannot be avoided. Attempts to “add” freon through the valve without evacuation of the system will lead to rapid re-breakage due to the presence of moisture and air in the circuit.
It is also worth contacting a professional if you are not confident in your abilities when disassembling the case. In modern models Indesit access to some components may require the dismantling of complex structural elements. An assembly error can lead to a leak or damage to the wiring.
Remember that timely repairs are often cheaper than buying new equipment. However, if the age of the refrigerator exceeds 10-12 years, and a serious breakdown is diagnosed (for example, corrosion of the evaporator), it is more economically feasible to consider purchasing new equipment, since the life of other components is also coming to an end.
Why, after defrosting, did the refrigerator stop cooling again after a week?
This is a classic sign of a freon leak or blockage. Defrosting temporarily removes ice blockage that may have formed due to moisture in the system, but does not eliminate the cause. If there is a microcrack in the system, freon continues to leak and the symptoms return. A search for leaks and refilling is required.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not cool?
For a short time - yes, but not recommended. The compressor will run non-stop trying to reach the set temperature, causing it to overheat and shorten its life. Food in the upper compartment may spoil. It is better to turn off the device until the malfunction is eliminated.
What is the normal temperature in the Indesit refrigeration chamber?
The optimal temperature is considered to be from +2 to +5 degrees Celsius. It should be measured on the middle shelf, in the center, by placing the thermometer in a container of water. The temperature may be lower near the back wall, and higher near the door, which is normal.
How much does it cost to replace the thermostat in an Indesit refrigerator?
The cost consists of the price of the spare part (usually 1000-2000 rubles) and the work of the technician. Depending on the region and model, the total amount may vary. The exact price can only be found out after diagnostics, since it may be necessary to dismantle additional panels.