Disassembling the refrigerator compressor without an angle grinder

The situation when it is necessary to remove non-ferrous metals from an old compressor arises for many home craftsmen involved in the disposal of household appliances. Often the main problem is the lack of an angle grinder, popularly known as an angle grinder, or the inability to use it due to the high level of noise and sparking in a residential area. It is possible to disassemble sealed casing the unit using more gentle methods, although this will require more time and physical effort.

The main difficulty is that manufacturers deliberately make the casing non-dismountable in order to prevent freon leakage and moisture penetration into the system. Sealing is achieved through the use of a weld that connects two hemispheres or a glass with a lid. To dismantle this seam without a cutting tool, it is necessary to act on the metal along the joint line, destroying the joint mechanically. It is important to understand that internal pressure in a working compressor may be absent, but in old units it is sometimes preservedtherefore, any sudden deformation of the housing is dangerous.

In this article we will look at proven methods for opening the casing using manual a tool that every man has in his garage. You will learn how to properly fix the unit, what tools to use for maximum effect, and how not to damage the insides if your goal is repair, and not just scrapping the metal. Safety when working with metal shavings and sharp edges should be a priority.

Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools

Before starting dismantling, it is necessary to organize a safe space for work. Since the process will be accompanied by the formation of metal dust, shavings and possible leakage of residual technical oil, it is best to choose a well-ventilated area, such as a garage or workshop. It is recommended to cover the floor with thick film or a sheet of plywood to facilitate subsequent cleaning. Do not forget that the compressor weighs from 8 to 12 kilograms, so the workbench or stool must be stable.

To work, you will need a set of hand tools that will allow you to apply different forces to the weld. The main tool will be a heavy hammer and a chisel with a well-sharpened tip. You may also need files for metal, pliers, a powerful screwdriver and, possibly, a hacksaw for metal with a new blade for the initial cut. If you have access to a drill, this will greatly simplify the task, but we will consider the option of working with hand tools.

Pay special attention to personal protective equipment. Fine metal dust generated when knocking out a seam can get into your eyes or respiratory tract. Be sure to use safety glasses and a respirator or thick gauze bandage. Hands must be protected with thick gloves, since the edges of the metal after opening will be razor-sharp. Technical oil, which can leak from the compressor, is poorly washed off from the skin and can cause irritation.

Analysis of the design and types of welds

To effectively disassemble the engine, you need understand what type of case you are dealing with. Most household compressors, whether models Atlant, Donbass or imported analogues, have a housing consisting of two parts. The connection of these parts is made by resistance welding or gas-shielded arc welding. The seam line usually runs in the middle of the “barrel” or closer to one of the ends.

There are two main types of casing design. The first option is when the top and bottom bowls have the same diameter and the seam is a simple butt joint. The second, more common option, involves one part of the body (usually the lower bowl) having a flange that spans the upper part. In this case, the seam runs around the circumference, where the lower part is folded or welded to the upper dome. You can determine the type of connection visually by running your finger along the equator of the unit.

It is also important to inspect the condition of the seam itself. On older compressors it may be covered with a thick layer of paint, rust or bitumen mastic, which was used for vibration isolation. Before starting active actions, this layer must be cleaned. Use sandpaper or a wire brush to expose the metal of the weld. A clean surface will allow you to more accurately assess the depth of the seam and avoid the tool slipping.

Why is the seam so strong?

The weld on compressors is made with the expectation of high internal refrigerant pressure during operation. The seal must be maintained for decades, so the thickness and density of the seam significantly exceeds the requirements for a typical household container. That is why simply “picking out” the cover will not work - the metal in the seam area actually becomes a single whole.

Method of knocking out a seam with a chisel and hammer

The most common method of opening without a power tool is the method of sequential destruction of a welded joint using a chisel. The essence of the method is to create a crack in the heat-affected zone of the seam and then expand it around the entire circumference. This process requires patience as you need to be careful not to damage the internal windings if you plan to use the motor.

Begin by placing the compressor on a hard surface. Secure it so it doesn't roll around on the table. Take the chisel and place its tip exactly on the seam line at an angle of approximately 45-60 degrees. Apply several confident blows with a hammer at one point, trying to “bite into” the metal. Your task is to break through the welded layer. As soon as the first crack or chip appears, move the chisel 1-2 centimeters to the side and repeat the operation, trying to connect new chips with the previous ones.

Moving around the circle, you will notice that the top cover begins to separate from the base. Do not try to immediately cut through the seam in one place; it is better to go through the entire perimeter, making cuts 2-3 mm deep. After the circle has been completely bypassed, apply stronger blows, trying to lift the lid. Tightness it will break with a characteristic sound if there was pressure inside, or a gap will simply appear through which air will flow.

⚠️ Attention: When working with a chisel, control the force of the blow. Excessive force can cause the chisel to slip and damage the copper tubes inside the housing, or worse, injure your hands. Hold the tool confidently, but do not hold it tightly in your fist.

Using a drill and drilling holes

If you have an electric drill in your arsenal, the process can be significantly speeded up and made more controllable. The method involves drilling a series of holes along the weld line. This weakens the structure and allows the body parts to be easily separated. For this work you will need metal drills, preferably cobalt or with a carbide tip, with a diameter of 4 to 8 millimeters.

Start with markings. Using a marker, mark dots along the seam at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from each other. Position the compressor so that the drilling area is accessible and the drill enters perpendicular to the surface or at a slight angle to the seam line. Turn the drill on to medium speed and start drilling. It is important not to press too hard so as not to break the drill, and to allow the tool to cool if the metal starts to heat up.

Once you drill holes around the entire perimeter, the wall between them will become very thin. At this point, you can use a chisel or a powerful screwdriver to break the bridges between the holes. Often it is enough to simply insert the tip of a screwdriver into one of the holes and turn it so that the tear line runs along the entire circumference. This method is less traumatic for internal components, since the vibration is transmitted pointwise and not throughout the entire body.

If the seam is made well and the drill “sticks,” you can try using a drill of a larger diameter, but you need to act carefully. Sometimes it helps to pre-punch the drilling points so that the drill does not move to the side. Rotation speed It is better to keep the chuck constant, avoiding jerking.

Alternative methods: hacksaw and file

In cases where impact methods seem too rough, and there is no drill, you can use a hand saw metal. This method is the longest and most labor-intensive, but it gives maximum control and virtually eliminates the risk of damaging the insides of the compressor with an impact. A hacksaw allows you to make an even and neat cut, although it will take from 30 to 60 minutes of continuous work.

First, make a notch in several places around the circumference to mark the trajectory. Then, using forward movements, try to deepen the cut. The secret to success here is to use a quality fine-tooth blade and take your time. Apply pressure on the hacksaw only when moving forward, returning it back without pressure. Periodically change the angle of the blade so that the cut expands evenly.

If it is inconvenient to work with a hacksaw due to the shape of the body, large files are used. They can be used to grind down weld metal, especially if it has a protruding bead. This method requires significant physical strength and endurance. By combining hacksaw cuts and filing, you can completely cut the joint without creating sparks.

Once the cut is made to a sufficient depth, insert a flathead screwdriver into it and use it as a lever to spread the edges of the metal. Often, after a deep cut, the upper part is removed with light hand effort. After opening, do not forget to treat the sharp edges with a file or sandpaper so as not to cut yourself during further work.

Removing the insides and sorting metals

After successfully removing the cover, the internal structure of the compressor will open in front of you. You will see an electric motor mounted on springs inside the housing, and the pumping group itself. To extract copper and aluminum, it is necessary to dismantle these units. The springs on which the motor is suspended are usually simply removed or cut off with side cutters if they are too tight.

First of all, the stator of the electric motor is removed. This is a heavy element with copper winding. To get to the copper, it is often enough to bite the winding wires on one side and pull them out in a bundle on the other. However, if your goal is pure metal, the winding will have to be burned out or cut out, which requires additional precautions. Aluminum core plates are also valuable.

The pump group (rotor and cylinder) is usually made of cast iron or steel, but aluminum alloys may be found in some modern models. The heat exchanger tubes, if preserved, are made of copper or steel. It is important to sort the metals, since the price of copper is much higher than for ferrous scrap. Freon mixture It should have evaporated by this point, but residual oil may still be inside.

⚠️ Attention: Inside the compressor there may be technical oil, which is a product of oil refining. Do not pour it onto the ground or down a drain. Collect the oil in a separate container and hand it over to a collection point for waste petroleum products.

Precautionary measures and waste disposal

When completing the work, it is necessary to properly dispose of the generated waste. Scrap metal should be placed in separate piles: non-ferrous metals separately, ferrous metals separately. This will simplify further delivery and allow you to get a better price. It is better to immediately collect sharp scraps of metal formed during the work process so that they do not lie underfoot.

If chemicals were used for cleaning or lubrication during the disassembly process, make sure that they did not get into the soil. The workplace should be wiped with a rag, which should then also be disposed of as industrial waste. Remember that being environmentally responsible is a sign of professionalism.

In some cases, especially when working with very old models, asbestos gaskets or seals may be found inside. Although this is rare in household refrigerators, it is worth knowing about. If you see a white or gray fibrous material that crumbles into dust, do not inhale it and carefully pack it in a sealed bag before throwing it away.

Is it possible to disassemble compressor, if the seam is filled with resin?

Yes, you can. Resin or bitumen mastic must be preheated with a construction hairdryer or carefully burned with a blowtorch (observing fire safety), after which it will become soft and can be easily scraped off with a spatula down to the metal.

Is it dangerous to open the compressor if there is freon left in it?

In old, non-working refrigerators, freon usually already evaporates through microcracks. However, if you hear a hissing sound while drilling, stop working immediately and ventilate the area. Modern freons are not toxic in small doses, but displace oxygen.

Which tool is better: a chisel or a hacksaw?

A chisel is faster, but requires more physical strength and creates more noise. A hacksaw gives a cleaner cut and less chance of damaging internal parts, but the process takes 3-4 times longer.

Do I need to drain the oil before opening?

It is advisable. To do this, turn the compressor upside down over the container and allow the oil to drain for 15-20 minutes. This will reduce the amount of dirt during further cutting.