The situation when refrigeration equipment stops performing its functions often leaves the owner with a choice: call a technician or try to fix the problem yourself. In cases where replacement is required compressorknowledge of the dismantling procedure becomes a critical skill for saving money. The process of removing the electric motor is not extremely complicated, but requires strict adherence to the sequence of actions and precautions.
Before taking active steps, you need to understand that refrigeration unit is a closed system under pressure. Improper handling of tubing may result in personal injury or damage to components. Your task is to carefully disconnect the motor from the frame and the electrical network, maintaining the integrity of the copper lines, if you do not plan to completely replace the refrigerant.
In this article we will look in detail at the preparation stages, the necessary tools and the specifics of working with various types of fasteners. Safety here stands on first place, since work is carried out with electricity and potentially hazardous gases. Carefully studying the instructions will help you avoid common mistakes and perform repairs efficiently.
Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools
Quality preparation of the space is half the success of any repair. You will need a clear area to place the refrigerator on its side and good lighting. The lack of haste and fuss will allow you to focus on small details, such as the condition of the wiring and the integrity of rubber shock absorbers.
For the job, you will need a basic set of tools, which any home craftsman usually has. The lack of specialized equipment should not stop you, since basic operations are performed by standard means. However, the use of high-quality tools greatly simplifies the process.
- 🛠️ A set of screwdrivers (phillips and flat) for removing panels and terminals.
- 🔧 Pliers or pliers for working with clamps and clamps.
- 🔪 Construction knife or side cutters for cutting insulation and wires.
- 🧤 Protective gloves to prevent cuts from sharp metal edges.
Pay special attention tools for stripping contactsif you plan to reuse the relay. Oxidation of compounds is a common cause of unstable engine operation even after replacement. It is also recommended to prepare a container to collect possible oil that may leak from the tubes when they are cut.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical network. Working with live electrical appliances is deadly and unacceptable even with short-term contact.
Make sure that the floor is covered with thick fabric or cardboard so as not to damage the floor covering or stain it with technical oil. The compressor weighs quite a lot, so make sure you can comfortably approach the unit from all sides. Good organization of the place will prevent the loss of small screws and parts.
Access to the compressor compartment and visual inspection
The first step to motor-compressor is to remove the protective panel located on the back wall of the refrigerator. In most modern models, such as Indesit or Atlant, it is secured with four screws or latches. By removing the casing, you get full access to the technical area.
Carry out a thorough visual inspection of the condition of the tubes and electrical connections. Look for signs of corrosion, darkening of the metal, or oily stains, which may indicate a freon leak. Often it is the appearance of the parts that suggests where exactly the problem lies, even before disassembly begins.
Pay attention to how the unit itself is secured. It can rest on four legs with rubber bushings or be bolted to the frame. Understanding the type of fastening will help you correctly plan further actions to dismantle it. In some cases, it is necessary to remove the entire refrigerator from the stand for convenience.
If you see a lot of dust on the condenser grill, this is an excellent time to clean it while access is open. Dust worsens heat transfer, forcing compressor to work with increased load. Carefully remove dirt with a soft brush, being careful not to bend the thin radiator lamellas.
Disconnecting the electrical part and starting relay
The most critical stage is disconnecting the electrical circuits. On the motor body there is a start-up relay, which looks like a black or white plastic box. It is through it that power is supplied to the motor windings when starting.
Carefully remove the relay cover. In older models, it may be secured with a metal bracket, which must be pressed out with a flat-head screwdriver. Newer models often use plastic latches that require careful pressing. The main thing is not to use excessive force so as not to break the fragile plastic.
- 📸 Take a photo of the connection diagram before disconnecting the wires.
- 🏷️ Mark the wires with colored tape or a marker to be sure.
- 🔌 Disconnect the terminals by gently wiggling them from side to side side.
After removing the relay, you will have access to the compressor contacts. There are usually three of them: general, starting and working. To check the serviceability of the motor, it is often necessary to test the windings with a multimeter. The resistance between different pairs of contacts must be within certain limits specified in the technical documentation.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to remove the relay by force if it does not give way. Over decades of operation, the contacts can “stick”, and a sharp jerk will lead to a break in the internal conductors or breakage of the relay housing.
Check the condition of the wires for melted insulation. If you notice blackening of the near contacts, this indicates poor contact and overheating. In this case starting relay and the terminals require mandatory replacement or thorough cleaning before installing a new motor.
Releasing copper tubes from pressure
The motor-compressor is connected to the cooling system by two main copper tubes: discharge (output) and suction (input). Refrigerant circulates inside the system under pressure, so you can’t just remove the tubes - you need a controlled release of pressure.
There are two main ways to release the tubes: sawing and soldering. The first method is faster, but requires care to prevent chips from getting into the system. The second method is more professional and allows you to keep the tubes intact for subsequent soldering of a new compressor.
Procedure for sawing:1. File the tube at a distance of 10-15 cm from the motor.
2. Clamp the cut area with pliers (not all the way).
3. Carefully break the pipe, releasing the gas.
When working with an open flame for desoldering, use extreme caution. Copper conducts heat quickly, and you can accidentally melt the insulation of nearby wires or damage the varnish coating of the windings. Use a damp cloth to cool adjacent areas of the metal when heated.
Why can’t you just unscrew the nuts?
In most household refrigerators, the connections between the tubes and the compressor are made by soldering rather than a threaded connection. An attempt to unscrew them will lead to deformation and rupture of the thin-walled copper tubes.
After the pressure is released, a mixture of refrigerant and compressor oil will leave the system. Be prepared for oil to spray out of an open pipe. Place a pre-prepared container or rag. Freonthat comes out has no odor, but in high concentrations it can displace oxygen, so provide ventilation.
Removing the compressor from the frame of the refrigerator
Now, when the motor is disconnected from the electrics and lines, it must be removed from the base. The compressor is secured to the frame using four nuts located on studs threaded through rubber shock absorbers. These shock absorbers dampen vibration during operation of the unit.
For removal you will need a key of the appropriate size, usually 10 mm or 12 mm. The nuts should be unscrewed evenly, without removing the studs completely, so as not to drop the heavy motor. The weight of the compressor can reach 10 kg, so hold it with your second hand.
| Mounting type | Removal features | Risks |
|---|---|---|
| Threaded (nuts) | Unscrewing wrench counterclockwise | Thread breakage due to rust |
| Rivets | Drilling or cutting required | Damage to frame during drilling |
| Spring hangers | You need to compress the spring or remove the hook | Sharp dismounting and impact of the motor |
If the nuts are rusty and do not unscrew, use a penetrating lubricant such as WD-40. Apply it to the thread and wait 10-15 minutes. This will help dissolve the oxides and make rotation easier. Using excessive force can lead to breakage of the studs, which will require complex restoration of the fasteners.
After removing the nuts, carefully remove the studs from the bushings. The motor is now free and can be removed from its niche. Do this smoothly, controlling the position of the tubes so as not to bend them and damage adjacent structural elements of the refrigerator.
Typical errors and precautions
When doing their own repairs, beginners often make mistakes that can lead to failure of new equipment. One of the most common is moisture or debris getting inside the open pipes of the system. Even a small speck can clog the capillary tube.
Another mistake is incorrect identification of contacts when connecting the relay. If you mix up the start and run windings, the motor may hum but not start, which will quickly lead to its burnout. Always double-check the connection diagram by referring to the markings on the case or documentation.
- 🚫 Do not turn on the compressor with open tubes for more than 1 minute.
- 🚫 Do not allow oil to come into contact with electrical contacts and wires.
- 🚫 Do not use for when soldering pipes, solder with acid flux.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to check the tightness of the system with an open flame. To search for leaks, use only a soap solution or special electronic leak detectors.
It is also important to remember about the correct disposal of the old compressor. There may be residual pressure and oil inside it. Do not attempt to disassemble the motor housing at home - this may result in flying fragments. Hand over used units to special collection points.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Is it possible to replace a compressor without a vacuum sealer?
Technically, you can start the system without vacuuming, simply by blowing it with freon, but this is a gross violation of technology. The remaining moisture and air will lead to the formation of ice plugs and oxidation of the oil, which will shorten the service life of the new motor significantly.
Why does the new compressor get hotter than the old one?
Modern motors often operate at higher housing temperatures due to the use of other refrigerants and optimization of processes. If the temperature does not exceed 90-100 degrees and the refrigerator freezes, this may be normal. However, it is worth checking the current consumption.
Is it necessary to flush the system when replacing the motor?
Yes, if the old compressor burns out, combustion products and acidic compounds enter the system. Flushing with nitrogen is mandatory, otherwise the new oil will quickly lose its properties and the filter drier will fail.
How to determine that the compressor is faulty before removal?
Main symptoms: the engine hums, but does not start; The refrigerator does not cool when the fan is running; The protection relay clicks constantly. Checking the windings also helps - an open or short circuit will indicate a defect.