Old refrigerators are a real treasure trove for those who collect non-ferrous scrap metal. Each such unit hides from 0.5 to 2.5 kg of copper, the price of which at collection points in 2026 reaches 400–700 rubles per kilogram (depending on purity and region). But how to remove it correctly without harming yourself and others? This article will help you understand the structure of the refrigerator, find all the copper components and dismantle them with minimal time and effort.
Before you start disassembling, it is important to understand: not all copper in the refrigerator is the same valuable. For example, compressor winding contains up to 98% pure metal, while in radiators and tubes its share can decrease to 70–80% due to impurities. In addition, some parts (such as capillary tubes) are so thin that they take a long time to assemble with minimal impact. We will tell you what you should pay attention to first and what is better to skip.
Do not forget about safety: refrigerators older than 2000 may contain freon (refrigerant) and mineral oilthat require special disposal. Getting them into the air or on the skin can cause poisoning. If you are not confident in your abilities, entrust the disassembly to professionals or at least work outdoors with protective gloves and goggles.
Where copper is hidden in the refrigerator: treasure map
Copper in the refrigerator is concentrated in four key areas. Their location depends on the model and year of manufacture, but the general layout remains the same even with modern units. Here's what you should look for:
- 🔧 Compressor —the “heart” of the refrigerator. Here, copper is contained in the winding of the electric motor (up to 1–1.5 kg in older models) and in the tubes connecting it to the capacitor.
- 🌀 Condenser (radiator) —grid on the back wall. In Soviet refrigerators ("ZIL", "Minsk", "Biryusa") it is completely copper, in new ones it is often aluminum with copper pipes.
- 🧊 Evaporator - coil inside the freezer cameras. In models before 2005, it is usually copper, later - aluminum or galvanized.
- ⚡ Start relay and thermostat - small but valuable parts. Contain copper contacts and windings (up to 50–150 g on both nodes).
The most “copper” refrigerator is Soviet "Saratov-2" or "Donbass": it contains up to 2.2 kg of copper only in the compressor and condenser. Modern No Frostmodels (Samsung, LG, Atlant) save on materials: here there is 2-3 times less copper, and it is often alloyed with other metals.
| Refrigerator part | Copper content (g) | Difficulty of extraction (1–5) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compressor winding | 800–1500 | 4 | Requires engine disassembly, soldering iron |
| Condenser (radiator) | 300–800 | 2 | New models often have aluminum |
| Capillary tube | 50–150 | 5 | Thin, difficult to clean from oil |
| Start relay | 30–80 | 1 | Easy to unscrew, little copper |
| Freezer evaporator | 200–500 | 3 | In modern models - aluminum |
Preparing for disassembly: tools and safety measures
Before you begin disassembly, prepare your workplace and tools. You will need:
- 🔨 Tools: screwdrivers (Phillips, flat), pliers, wire cutters, hacksaw, soldering iron (power 60–100 W).
- 🧤 Protection equipment: rubber gloves, goggles, respirator (when working with freon), shoes with closed toes.
- 🧲 Additional: magnet for collecting steel parts, scales (for weighing copper), marker for marking wires.
Disassembly is best done outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. If the refrigerator was working until the last moment, let it stand 24 hours - this will reduce the freon pressure in the system. Be sure to disconnect the unit from the network and drain the water from the drainage system (if there is one).
⚠️ Attention: Refrigerators produced before 2000 can use freon R-12 or R-22, which destroy the ozone layer. Their leakage is prohibited by law! If you are not sure about the type of refrigerant, contact a specialized workshop for safe removal.
Before starting work, take a photo of the back wall of the refrigerator and the location of the pipes. This will help avoid confusion during dismantling and simplify metal sorting. If you plan to hand over copper at a collection point, check in advance their requirements for the preparation of scrap: some accept only wires stripped of insulation, others - solid parts.
Disconnect the refrigerator from the network for 24 hours|
Prepare tools and protective equipment|
Take a photograph of the location of the tubes and wires|
Check the presence of freon (by the nameplate on the compressor)|
Organize a workplace with good ventilation-->
Step-by-step instructions: how to remove copper from the compressor
The compressor is the most The “copper” part of the refrigerator is also the most difficult to disassemble. In old models ("ZIL", "Orsk") it contains up to 1.5 kg of copper, in new (Indesit, Bosch) - about 500–800 g. To extract it, follow this algorithm:
Disconnect the compressor from the system. It is attached to the refrigerator frame with bolts (usually 3-4 pieces). Carefully unscrew them and set them aside.
Cut the tubes connecting the compressor to the condenser and evaporator. Use wire cutters or a hacksaw. Do not try to unscrew them —they are sealed at the factory.
Drain the oil from the compressor. To do this, turn it upside down and let the oil drain into the prepared container. The oil may contain freon - do not inhale the fumes!
Disassemble the compressor housing. It consists of two parts, fastened with bolts or rivets. In some models ("Danfoss", "Secop") the housing is non-separable - you will have to saw it.
Remove the winding (coil) from the stator. It is a copper wire in varnish insulation. Carefully cut the insulation with a knife or burn it with a soldering iron.
The compressor winding is the purest copper in the refrigerator (up to 99.9% Cu), so it should be separated from other parts when handing over. The winding weight in Soviet compressors reaches 1–1.2 kg, in imported ones - 300–600 g.
⚠️ Attention: In refrigerator compressors "Atlant" and "Stinol" after 2010, aluminum windings are often installed. Check them with a magnet - copper does not magnetize!
If you do not plan to disassemble the compressor completely, you can hand it over entirely to a collection point. The price for an unassembled compressor is lower (about 200–300 rubles/kg), but you will save time. An alternative is to sell it for spare parts through Avito or Yulu: working compressors from Soviet refrigerators are bought for 1 000–3,000 rubles.
Removing the condenser and evaporator: where else to look for copper
After the compressor, go to condenser (radiator on the back wall) and evaporator (coil in the freezer). In Soviet refrigerators these parts are completely copper, in modern ones they are often combined (copper + aluminum). Here's how to remove them:
Condenser (radiator)
It is attached to the back wall of the refrigerator using rivets or bolts. To dismantle it:
- Bite off or unscrew the tubes connecting the condenser to the compressor and evaporator.
- Remove the fastening elements (the rivets can be drilled with a drill).
- Carefully separate the radiator from the body. In some models it is welded - you will have to cut it with a hacksaw.
There is less copper in the condenser than in the compressor (300–800 g), but it is easy to separate from the aluminum fins. Use wire cutters or metal scissors.
Freezer evaporator
This is a coil hidden under the plastic body of the freezer. To get to it:
- Remove the internal shelves and drawers of the freezer.
- Remove the plastic lining (it is attached with latches or screws).
- Disconnect the evaporator from the system by cutting through the tubes.
In old refrigerators ("Minsk-15", "Polyar"), the evaporator weighs up to 500 g and is completely copper. In new models (No Frost) it is often replaced with aluminum.
Don't waste time on capillary tubes —they contain everything 50–150 g of copper, but cleaning them from oil and insulation takes hours. The exception is if you dismantle dozens of refrigerators: then the little things add up.
How to distinguish copper from aluminum in a radiator?
Copper has a reddish tint, aluminum - silver. Also, copper is not magnetic (check with a magnet), while aluminum is lighter in weight. If in doubt, scratch the part with a knife: copper will leave a reddish line, aluminum - a silvery one.
Cleaning and preparing copper for delivery: how to increase the price
Scrap metal collection points pay more for pure copper no impurities. Therefore, before handing it over, you need to prepare:
- 🧹 Remove the insulation with wires. Use a knife, soldering iron or special stripper. The varnish insulation from the compressor winding is burned with a blowtorch.
- 🧴 Clean from oil. Wash copper tubes and parts with kerosene or solvent. Oil reduces scrap price by 10–20%.
- 🔍 Sort by purity. Separate pure copper (compressor winding) from alloys (radiator with aluminum). The difference in price is up to 100 rub/kg.
- ⚖️ Weigh it. Use scales accurate to 10 g. Reception points often underestimate weight - control the process.
Copper prices in 2026 vary by region:
- Pure copper (wire, winding): 500–700 rub/kg.
- Copper alloys (radiators, tubes): 300–500 rub/kg.
- Scrap with insulation (uncleaned): 200–350 rub/kg.
⚠️ Attention: Some collection points refuse to accept copper from refrigerators due to freon or oil residues. Call in advance and check conditions. An alternative is selling through bulletin boards (Avito, Yula) or groups in Telegram scrap metal collection.
If you have accumulated a lot of copper (from 10 kg), look for collection points with a “pickup” option. They often give a higher price and save you time on transportation.
What to do with the rest of the refrigerator parts
After removing the copper, there are many other materials left that can also be handed over or recycled:
| Material | Where is | Where to hand over | Approximate price (2026) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aluminium | Radiator, housing, shelves | Item acceptance of scrap metal | 80–120 rub/kg |
| Steel (ferrous metal) | Case, doors, fasteners | Scrap metal | 15–30 rub/kg |
| Plastic | Shelves, drawers, lining | Plastic collection point | 5–20 rub/kg |
| Compressor (entire) | Rear part of the refrigerator | Spare parts (Avito) or scrap metal | 200–300 rub/kg or 1,000–3,000 rub/piece |
| Freon (refrigerant) | Cooling system | Specialized disposal | Paid recycling (300–1,000 rubles) |
Plastic parts (doors, shelves) can sell separately. For example, boxes from refrigerators Atlant or Stinol are bought for the repair of other units at a price 200–500 rub/piece. The stainless steel case (in models Liebherr, Samsung) is sold as ferrous metal, but its price is higher - up to 40–50 rub/kg.
If the refrigerator is still working, but outdated, consider selling it entirely. Soviet models ("ZIL-63", "Minsk-16") are bought by collectors or summer residents for 3,000–10,000 rubles. Before selling, clean it of rust and check the door for tightness.
Legal nuances: you can Is it possible to disassemble a refrigerator at home
From a legal point of view, disassembling your own a refrigerator for personal purposes is not prohibited. However, there are several points that are worth considering:
- 📜 Freon disposal. According to the law (Federal Law No. 89 “On Waste”), refrigerants must be disposed of by licensed organizations. If you simply release freon into the air, this is an administrative offense (fine up to 2,000 rubles for individuals).
- 🏠 Dismantling in an apartment building. Noisy work (metal cutting, drilling) is allowed only during set hours (usually from 9:00 to 19:00 with a lunch break). For violation - a fine of up to 5,000 rubles.
- ♻️ Environmental fee. Since 2026, manufacturers have been paying an environmental fee for the disposal of household appliances, but this does not relieve owners from responsibility for the correct disposal of hazardous components (freon, oil).
If you are dismantling a refrigerator to sell copper, there will be no legal problems. But if you are doing this systematically (for example, buying old refrigerators for disassembly), you will have to register as an individual entrepreneur and obtain a license for the circulation of scrap non-ferrous metals. Without it, selling copper in large volumes (from 100 kg) may lead to questions from Rosprirodnadzor.
⚠️ Attention: In some regions (Moscow, St. Petersburg, Yekaterinburg), local rules for the disposal of household appliances apply. Check them on the website of the local administration or at the management company.
To avoid problems, you can use the services ecotechnoparks —they accept refrigerators for recycling, and you are paid compensation for the non-ferrous metals handed over. For example, in Moscow, for one refrigerator you can get 500–1,500 rubles (depending on the model).
FAQ: answers to frequently asked questions
How much copper can be obtained from one refrigerator?
Depends on the model and year of manufacture:
- Soviet refrigerators ("ZIL", "Minsk", "Biryusa"): 1.5–2.5 kg (mainly in the compressor and condenser).
- Imported 1990–2005 ("Stinol", "Ariston"): 0.8–1.5 kg.
- Modern models (No Frost, inverter compressors): 0.3–0.8 kg (copper replaced by aluminum).
Record holders for copper content: "Saratov-2" (up to 2.2 kg), "Donbass" (up to 2 kg), "Orsk" (1.8 kg).
How to distinguish a copper tube from an aluminum one?
There are several ways:
- Color: copper is reddish brown, aluminum is silvery white.
- Magnet: copper is not magnetic, neither is aluminum, but if you bring a magnet to an alloy (for example, brass), it can weakly attracted.
- Weight: copper is 3 times heavier than aluminum (density 8.9 g/cm³ versus 2.7 g/cm³).
- Scratch: scratch the tube with a knife. Copper will leave a reddish mark, aluminum will leave a white mark.
In doubtful cases, try bending the tube: copper is more ductile, aluminum breaks when bent strongly.
Is it possible to sell the entire compressor without disassembling it?
Yes, and sometimes it’s more profitable. Prices for used compressors:
- Soviet models ("DXM-3", "DXM-5"): 1,000–3,000 rubles (bought for repairing old refrigerators).
- Imported 1990–2010 ("Danfoss", "Secop"): 500–1,500 rubles.
- Modern inverter: 200–800 rub (demand is lower).
Where to sell:
- Bulletin boards: Avito, Yula, Hand to hand.
- Groups in VK or Telegram refrigerator repair.
- Service centers (sometimes they buy spare parts in bulk).
Before selling, check the compressor for functionality: connect it to the network (observing safety measures!) and listen to whether the motor starts. A working compressor costs 2-3 times more than a faulty one.
What to do with freon from the refrigerator?
Freon cannot simply be released into the air - this is a violation of the waste law. Options:
- Disposal through the eco-technopark. In Moscow, St. Petersburg and other large cities there are collection points where freon is pumped out free of charge or for a nominal fee (300–500 rubles).
- Return the entire refrigerator. Many scrap metal collection points undertake recycling freon yourself (sometimes for a fee).
- Call a specialist. Refrigerator repair specialists have equipment for pumping out freon. Cost of the service: 1,000–2,000 rub.
Do not try to drain freon yourself - it can cause frostbite and poisoning if inhaled. Freon is especially dangerous R-12 (used until 2000).
Is it profitable to dismantle refrigerators for copper in 2026?
Let's calculate the profitability using the example of a Soviet refrigerator "ZIL-63":
- Copper: 2 kg × 600 rubles/kg = 1,200 rub.
- Aluminum: 3 kg × 100 rub/kg = 300 rub.
- Black metal: 15 kg × 20 rub/kg = 300 rubles.
- Plastic: 5 kg × 10 rubles/kg = 50 rubles.
- Total: 1,850 rubles for one refrigerator.
Subtract expenses:
- Transportation (if you hand it over at the reception point): 200–500 rubles.
- Freon recycling: 300–1,000 rubles (if you don’t drain it yourself).
- Tools (if you buy): 500–1,500 rubles (one-time expense).
Net income: 500–1,000 rubles from one refrigerator. If you disassemble 10 units per month, this is 5,000–10,000 rubles extra income. Is it profitable? Depends on your time and the availability of a free source of old refrigerators (for example, if you work in a housing office or a repair shop).