Removing the compressor from the refrigerator is a complex technical procedure that requires not only specialized tools, but also strict adherence to safety precautions. Most often, owners of household appliances are faced with the need dismantling if the unit is completely inoperable, dispose of old equipment or perform in-depth diagnostics of the system. It is important to understand that this process irreversibly disables the device if subsequent professional recharging and sealing are not planned.
Before starting any manipulations, you must be aware that inside of the refrigeration circuit there is oil and refrigerant residues, which can be dangerous if handled incorrectly. In addition, compressor units are often equipped with a start-protection relay, which also requires careful shutdown. Under no circumstances try to bite through copper tubes without first releasing the pressure, since a sudden release of oil can damage the eyes or skin.
In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions that will allow you to safely remove the motor-compressor, minimizing the risk of damage to other components of the refrigerator. We will look at the necessary tools, the sequence of disconnecting electrical circuits and methods for physically separating the unit from the body.
Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools
High-quality preparation is the key to successful completion of the job. Before you begin disassembly, make sure that you have free space to accommodate the dismantled parts and the refrigerator itself. It is best to carry out work in a well-ventilated area, since when removing the tubes, evaporation of technical liquids with a characteristic odor is possible.
You will need a set of tools that should be at hand in full. Missing even one element can delay the process or damage components. Pay special attention to cutting tools, since soldering is not used in this case.
- 🔧 Pipe cutter or a high-quality hacksaw for metal with a fine tooth for neat cutting of copper lines.
- 🔌 Screwdrivers (cross and flat) for removing protective covers and terminals pads.
- 🧤 Protective gloves and glasses to prevent injuries from sharp metal edges and oil splashes.
- 🗑️ Container for collecting used compressor oil.
Also, do not forget to prepare rags or paper towels to quickly remove oil spills. If you don't have a pipe cutter, you can use pipe cutters to cut through the pipes, but this method is less preferable as it deforms the edges of the copper, which can make further actions difficult if you plan to reuse any parts.
Safety measures and power outage
Human safety always comes before the speed of work. A refrigerator compressor is a high voltage electrical appliance that works in conjunction with refrigerants. Before touching any part, you must completely de-energize the device.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to remove the compressor while the refrigerator is connected to the electrical network. Even if the device is not working, there may be residual voltage in the circuit or capacitors may be storing charge.
First, unplug the plug from the socket. If access to the outlet is difficult, turn off the circuit breaker in the electrical panel. Let the refrigerator stand unplugged for at least 15-20 minutes. This is necessary so that the capacitors in the starting relay are discharged and the pressure in the system is stabilized if it has recently been operating.
Particular attention should be paid to the integrity of the wire insulation. If you see melted areas or cracks in the insulation, work with extreme caution. When dismantling the electrical part, use dielectric tools, if possible.
Do not forget about chemical safety. Refrigerants, such as freon, in high concentrations can cause suffocation, and upon contact with an open flame form toxic compounds. Although the amount of gas in household refrigerators is small, ventilation should not be neglected.
☑️ Safety check before starting work
Access to the compressor compartment
In modern refrigerator models, the motor-compressor is usually located in the lower rear part of the housing. To access it, you need to remove the protective panel. In old Soviet models, the compressor was often open, but in modern technology it is covered with a metal or plastic casing.
The process of removing the panel may vary depending on the manufacturer. In some models, for example Liebherr or Bosch, the casing is secured with latches that need to be carefully pressed out. Others, such as Indesit or Atlant, may use screws or bolts. Use an appropriate screwdriver to avoid tearing off the caps of the fasteners.
After removing the back cover, you will have a view of the compressor, condenser grille and tube system. Be careful: the edges of the metal casing may be sharp. Also pay attention to the condition of the tubes - if they are covered with a layer of dust and oil, this may indicate previous leaks or sealing problems.
If access to the compressor is difficult due to other elements, such as a tray for collecting melt water, carefully remove them too. The tray is usually located directly above the compressor compartment and is mounted on guides.
Is it necessary to drain the oil before dismantling?
It is not recommended to specifically drain the oil through a puncture in the tube, as this will create a messy situation with splashing. It is best for the oil to remain inside when carefully disconnected, or to drain into a prepared container when cutting the tubes at the lowest point.
Disconnecting the electrical circuits and the start relay
Once access is gained, the first stage of mechanical work is turning off the electrics. A start-protection relay and a thermostat are installed on the compressor housing. It is through them that voltage is supplied to the motor windings.
First you need to remove the terminal box cover, if there is one, and disconnect the power wires. Remember or take a photo of the connection diagram so that if you install a new unit, you do not confuse the phase, neutral and ground. Usually the wires are color coded, but it’s better to double check.
Then carefully remove the start relay itself. It is placed directly on the compressor terminals and is often fixed with a bracket or simply held in place due to a tight fit. Start relay —a fragile element containing a coil or posistor, so you cannot pull the wires.
- 📸 Take a photo of connecting the wires before disconnection.
- 🔌 Disconnect the connectors, holding the base of the relay with the other hand.
- 🧐 Inspect the contacts for oxidation or carbon deposits.
- 🛡️ Place the relay in a safe place so that it does not fall and broke.
In some models, the relay may be secured with a metal bracket. To remove it, use pliers, but act carefully so as not to damage the copper leads of the compressor, which, if handled carelessly, can break off at the very base.
Removing the refrigerant and cutting the pipes
This is the most crucial moment of the operation. There is refrigerant under pressure inside the system. If you simply bite the pipe, the gas will come out with a characteristic whistle, taking drops of oil with it. Although modern freons (R600a, R134a) are considered relatively safe for the ozone layer, their direct release indoors is undesirable.
⚠️ Attention: Freon R600a (isobutane), which is used in many modern refrigerators, is explosive. It is strictly forbidden to use open fire, smoke or create sparks near the work site.
To release the pressure, you can carefully file one of the tubes (usually the filling tube, if available, or just one of the lines) with a file or hacksaw, without cutting through it all the way, and then press sharply so that the gas escapes through a small hole under control. However, more often, craftsmen simply quickly cut the tubes, being at a safe distance from the jet.
The tubes are cut as close to the compressor as possible in order to leave the maximum length on the unit itself, if it is planned for use, or closer to the housing, if the compressor is scrapped. Use a pipe cutter for a clean cut or powerful wire cutters.
At the time of depressurization, compressor oil may leak from the system. It has a dark color and a specific smell. Place a container under the cutting area in advance. After bleeding the gas and oil, the tubes can be finally separated.
Removing fasteners and removing the compressor
After the electrics are turned off and the tubes are cut, the compressor is still attached to the metal frame of the refrigerator. It is usually mounted on four shock-absorbing legs or welded studs, which are secured with nuts.
In most cases, the compressor is supported by two or four bolts/nuts. To unscrew them, you may need a ratchet wrench or a set of open-end wrenches. Since the compressor is heavy (the weight can reach 10-12 kg), hold it with your hand when unscrewing the last turns of the thread.
If the fasteners are rusty and cannot be unscrewed, you can apply a penetrating lubricant (for example, WD-40) and wait 10-15 minutes. The use of brute force can lead to the detachment of the mounting ears from the compressor body, which will make its further use impossible.
After unscrewing all fastenings, carefully remove the unit. It may be hot if the refrigerator has been running for a short time and will definitely be stained with oil. Use thick gloves and possibly additional fabric for grip.
| Type of fastening | Tool | Removal features |
|---|---|---|
| Threaded rods | Open-end wrench / Ratchet | Requires access from below, souring is possible |
| Welded eyes | Blunger / Hacksaw | Used during disposal, requires care |
| Rubber shock absorbers | Pliers | You need to squeeze the bushing to remove it from the frame |
Disposal and preparation for further use
If the compressor is removed for disposal, it must be taken to a specialized scrap collection point. Ferrous and non-ferrous metals contained in the unit can be recycled. Throwing compressors into regular trash containers is prohibited by environmental regulations in many countries.
If you plan to use the compressor to create a homemade compressor (for airbrushing, inflating tires, etc.), you will need to inspect it. It is necessary to check the resistance of the windings, make sure that there is no breakdown on the housing and replace the starting relay with a new one corresponding to the engine power.
It is also worth rinsing the inside of the compressor with a special solvent if it is planned to be used with other gases or if the oil inside is heavily contaminated with decomposition products. However, for standard operation as an air blower, this is not always necessary.
⚠️ Attention: The technical characteristics of the compressor (capacity, pressure) are designed for operation in a closed refrigerator circuit. Using it as an air compressor requires the installation of a receiver and a valve group, since standard valves may not withstand long-term operation in open atmosphere.
Do not forget to clean the installation site in the refrigerator from residual oil and dirt before installing new equipment or preserving the empty case. This will prevent unpleasant odors and corrosion in the future.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to throw the old compressor into the regular trash?
No, this cannot be done. The compressor contains oil and refrigerant residues that pollute the environment. In addition, the body of the device is made of metal, which can be recycled. Take it to collection points for scrap metal or household appliances.
How much does a standard refrigerator compressor weigh?
The weight of a household compressor usually varies from 9 to 12 kilograms. The exact weight depends on the model, manufacturer and the amount of refrigerant that may remain inside (although the gas is often vented before disposal).
Is compressor oil dangerous for the skin?
Mineral compressor oil itself is not a strong acid, but it does contain chemical additives and system wear products. Prolonged contact with skin may cause irritation or an allergic reaction. Wear gloves and wash your hands thoroughly after contact.
Why does white mist appear when cutting tubes?
White mist is a mixture of refrigerant vapor and tiny droplets of compressor oil. When the pressure drops sharply, the gas expands and cools, condensing moisture from the air and oil into an aerosol. This confirms the presence of pressure in the system.