Many amateur flower growers are faced with a dilemma when late autumn arrives, and frosts are already raging outside the window. Tuberous begonias grown in open ground or on a balcony require special attention, since their above-ground part dies off, and the underground part - the tuber - must survive the cold season in a dormant state. Storage begonias in winter in apartment conditions it often becomes a problem due to the operation of central heating, which dries out the air and increases the temperature, which is detrimental to dormant plants.
The ideal solution for residents of high-rise buildings is the use of household appliances, namely a refrigerator. This allows you to create a stable microclimate that is not available in living rooms. However, simply putting a flower in a vegetable box is not enough: improper preparation or violation of the temperature regime can lead to drying out of the tubers or, conversely, to their rotting. Tuber begonia - the plant is delicate, and mistakes during this period can cost you the loss of all planting material.
In this article we will analyze in detail all the process of preparing and placing a plant. You will learn how to properly dig and dry tubers, how to process them, and what kind of packaging is best to keep them on the refrigerator shelf. A competent approach will ensure that in the spring your plants wake up healthy and ready for abundant flowering.
Preparing tubers for winter storage
The process of preserving planting material begins long before you put it in the refrigerator. The key stage is the correct extraction of tubers from the soil and their primary processing. If you hurry and dig up the plant while the leaves are still green, the tuber will not have time to accumulate a sufficient amount of nutrients. Dormant period It should occur naturally, as the foliage withers after the first light frost.
After digging, the tubers must be carefully cleaned of any remaining soil. This should be done manually, being careful not to damage the thin roots and the very surface of the tuber. It is not recommended to wash them under running water, as excess moisture can cause the development of fungal infections during storage. It is better to let the soil dry and brush it off with a soft brush.
⚠️ Attention: Never cut the stems immediately after digging! Allow them to dry naturally for 2-3 weeks so that the nutrients from the leaves are transferred to the tuber.
The next important step is drying. Place the tubers in one layer in a dry, ventilated room with a temperature of about +15...+18°C. This process can take from two weeks to a month. Only after the stems have completely died off and easily separated, and the surface of the tuber has become dry and hard, can you proceed to the next stage.
☑️ Ready for planting
Some gardeners prefer to divide large tubers before storage, but this should only be done if you are confident in your abilities and know how to properly process the cuts. For beginners, it is safer to store the tubers whole to minimize the risk of infection.
Optimal temperature conditions and humidity
Understanding the physiology of the plant helps create ideal conditions. Temperature conditions is the most critical parameter. If the refrigerator is too warm, the begonia may begin to grow prematurely, depleting its reserves. If it is too cold, the tubers will freeze and rot.
The optimal temperature range for storing tuberous begonias is from +1°C to +8°C. These are the conditions that are usually maintained in the lower compartments of household refrigerators or in special freshness zones. Air humidity also plays an important role: it should be moderate, approximately 60-70%. Too dry air will cause the tubers to shrink, and too humid air will cause mold to appear.
It is important to consider that different varieties may have their own preferences. For example, Begonia Elatior is more capricious and tolerates temperature fluctuations worse than ordinary garden varieties. Therefore, monitoring the condition of tubers in the first weeks of storage is mandatory.
Regularly check the temperature in the storage area using thermometer. Do not rely solely on the refrigerator regulator, as the actual temperature on the shelf may differ from the set one.
Choosing a place in the refrigerator: where is the best location
Not all shelves in the refrigerator are equally suitable for storing plants. The refrigerator door is the worst place due to constant temperature changes when opening. The upper shelves are also not suitable, as they are usually warmer there. The ideal place is the bottom shelf or a special drawer for vegetables and fruits.
However, the vegetable compartment also has its own nuances. If your refrigerator has a "Fresh Zone" or "Zero Chamber" function, this can be a great option, but only if the temperature there does not drop below zero. Freezing is detrimental to the living tissues of the tuber.
Let's consider the main placement options:
- 🧊 Bottom shelf: Here the temperature is most stable, but you need to make sure that the tubers do not touch the back wall where the evaporator is located.
- 🥬 Vegetable box: Good humidity, but temperature may be higher than optimal, which threatens early awakening of the kidneys.
- ❄️ Freshness zone: Ideal in temperature, but the risk of freezing is higher, constant monitoring with a thermometer is required.
It is best to place prepared tubers away from food, especially fruits that emit ethylene (apples, pears). Ethylene can accelerate the aging process and the awakening of buds in plants.
Packaging methods and storage substrates
Proper packaging creates the necessary microclimate around each tuber. You can't just throw them on the refrigerator shelf - they will dry out or become moldy. There are several time-tested packaging methods, each of which has its own advantages.
The most common method is to use peat or coconut fiber. The tubers are placed in a cardboard box or plastic container and sprinkled with a slightly damp substrate so that they do not touch each other. Peat holds moisture well and provides air exchange.
Another popular option is storage in sand. River sand is pre-calcined for disinfection and slightly moistened. The tubers are buried completely in the sand. This method is good because sand quickly releases heat and stabilizes the temperature, but it is heavier than peat.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use plastic bags without air access! In a sealed bag, the tubers will instantly suffocate and rot from condensation.
If there are only a few tubers, you can use the individual packaging method. Each tuber is wrapped in several layers of dry paper or newspaper, and then all the reconciliations are placed in a box. This makes it easy to inspect each specimen without disturbing the rest.
Can it be stored in sawdust?
Yes, pine sawdust is a great option. They contain phytoncides that suppress the development of fungi. The main thing is that the sawdust is dry and does not contain excess resin.
Comparison table for storage methods
To make it easier for you to choose the appropriate method, we have systematized the main methods in a comparative table. It will help you evaluate the pros and cons of each option depending on your conditions.
| Method | Humidity | Risk of rot | Labor intensity |
|---|---|---|---|
| B peat/coconut | High | Medium | Low |
| Sand | Average | Low | Average |
| In paper | Low | High (drying out) | Low |
| In vermiculite | Optimal | Very low | Average |
As can be seen from the table, the use of vermiculite or agroperlite is often the safest option. These mineral substrates not only regulate humidity, but also have bactericidal properties. However, they may be less available than regular peat or sand.
When choosing a method, consider the volume of planting material. For a dozen tubers, paper packaging is also suitable, and for a collection of hundreds of plants it is better to use boxes with peat.
Condition control and disease prevention
Winter is not the time to forget about plants completely. Regular condition monitoring tubers are required. About once every 2-3 weeks it is necessary to open the containers and inspect the planting material. This allows you to identify problems at an early stage.
What should you pay attention to first? Look for soft, blackened areas, which are a sign of rot, or a white, fuzzy coating, a symptom of a fungal infection (botrytis). If you notice a damaged tuber, it should be immediately isolated from healthy ones.
The affected areas can be carefully cut out with a sharp sterile knife, capturing healthy tissue. The cut must be treated with brilliant green, a solution of potassium permanganate, or sprinkled with crushed coal. After such a “surgery”, the tuber is dried and returned for storage, but in a separate container.
Also monitor the turgor (elasticity) of the tubers. If they start to wrinkle, it means the humidity is too low. In this case, the substrate should be lightly sprinkled with water from a spray bottle.
Removing tubers from dormancy
Sooner or later, wintering ends, and the time of awakening comes. This usually occurs in late February or early March. You can tell that the plant is ready to wake up by the swelling of the buds. At this moment, it is important not to miss the moment and carry out germination correctly germination.
Remove the tubers from the refrigerator and place them in a warm, bright place. You can lay them out on wet peat or sand in boxes. The temperature for germination should be increased to +18...+20°C. After 2-3 weeks, sprouts will appear.
As soon as the sprouts reach 2-3 cm in height, the tubers can be planted in pots with soil. Do not completely cover the top of the tuber with soil; leave it open so that the growing point does not rot. Gradually increase watering, accustoming the plant to active growth.
Proper wintering in the refrigerator is the key to lush flowering of your begonia next season. Compliance with temperature conditions and hygiene rules will allow you to preserve even the rarest varieties.
⚠️ Attention: Do not immediately expose sprouted tubers to direct sunlight. Young sprouts are very tender and can get burned. Accustom it to light gradually.
Can begonia be stored in the freezer?
Absolutely not. The temperature in the freezer is usually -18°C or lower. The cellular fluid in the tuber tissues will freeze, forming ice crystals that will rupture the cell walls. After defrosting, such a tuber will turn into mush and die.
What to do if the tuber is covered with mold?
If the mold is superficial (white fluff), you can try to save the tuber. Wash it in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or a special fungicide (for example, Fundazol or Maxim). Then dry thoroughly and place in a new, sterile substrate. If the rot is deep, it is better to throw away the tuber.
Do tubers need to be treated before storage?
Yes, treatment with fungicides significantly reduces the risk of diseases. You can use a solution Fitosporina or simply dust the tubers with wood ash before placing them in the substrate. This will create a protective barrier for fungal spores.
How to distinguish the top and bottom of a begonia tuber?
The upper part of the tuber is usually more concave, sometimes with the remains of a stem or buds. The lower part is more convex and smooth, this is where the roots grow. When planting, the tuber is placed with the convex side down, but when storing, the orientation does not matter, the main thing is not to damage the buds.