Winter is the time of year when flower growers are faced with the main dilemma: where to leave dormant gloxinia tubers until spring. In apartments with central heating, the air becomes too dry, and the temperature during the heating season often exceeds a comfortable 20 degrees, which is absolutely not suitable for a dormant plant. It is in such situations that a household refrigerator comes to the rescue, which can become an ideal storage for your flower, if you follow certain technical nuances.
However, simply putting a tuber on a shelf is a sure way to destroy the plant, since the standard temperature in the main compartment is too low and the humidity can fluctuate. You need to create an artificial environment that imitates natural wintering conditions so that it does not dry out and begin to rot ahead of time. Proper organization of the space inside the refrigerator will allow you to save 100% of the planting material until the onset of warm days. tuber did not dry out and did not begin to rot prematurely. Proper organization of the space inside the refrigeration chamber will allow you to save 100% of the planting material until the onset of warm days.
In this article we will analyze in detail the physiological needs of gloxinia during the dormant period and explain how to adapt household appliances for these purposes. You will learn why an ordinary plastic bag can become a trap for moisture and how to properly prepare Sinningia speciosa for long-term suspended animation. Following these instructions will ensure the rapid flowering of your gloxinia next season.
Biological necessity of the dormant period
Gloxinia is a plant with a pronounced development cycle, where the active growth phase is followed by an obligatory dormant period. In nature, this process is triggered by a reduction in daylight hours and a decrease in temperature, which signals the tuber to slow down. If you ignore this need and leave the flower in the light at room temperature, it will become exhausted, stretch out and, most likely, die or not produce flowers next year. metabolism. If you ignore this need and leave the flower in the light at room temperature, it will become exhausted, stretched out and, most likely, die or will not produce flowers next year.
The ideal temperature for a dormant tuber varies in a narrow range from +10 to +15 degrees Celsius. It is these conditions that are difficult to recreate in a city apartment in winter, where the thermometer rarely drops below +22 degrees. In this case, the refrigerator acts as a stabilizer that allows you to maintain the temperature at the desired level, preventing premature awakening of the kidneys.
It is important to understand that storage in the refrigerator is not suitable for all specimens. Young plants grown from seeds this year often do not go to rest and may die from the cold, so it is better to leave them in the light with additional lighting. Adult tubers, which have accumulated a sufficient supply of nutrients, perfectly tolerate artificial wintering in conditions of low temperature.
- 🌱 A period of rest is necessary to restore vitality and lay down future flower stalks.
- 🌡️ Temperatures above +18 degrees provoke premature germination and depletion of the tuber.
- 💧 In a state of suspended animation, the plant practically does not consume water, which requires special humidity conditions.
- 🛑 Young seedlings of the first year of life often do not need a forced period of rest.
⚠️ Attention: Never store gloxinia in the freezer! Temperatures below 0 degrees will lead to crystallization of water in the tissues of the plant and its instant death.
Preparing tubers for winter storage
Before placing the plant in the refrigerator, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory procedures that minimize the risk of disease. The process begins with a gradual reduction in watering, which causes the plant to slow down the flow of sap and go into hibernation. When the leaves begin to turn yellow and die, stop watering completely, allowing the above-ground part to dry naturally.
After the leaves have completely dried, it is time to remove the tuber from the soil. This must be done extremely carefully so as not to damage skinas any mechanical damage will become an open gate for infections. Gently shake off the soil, but do not try to wash the tuber with water, since excess moisture during preparation for storage is contraindicated.
The final stage of preparation is inspection and processing. Carefully examine the surface of the tuber for rot or mold. If suspicious spots are found, they must be cut out with a sterile instrument and the sections treated with fungicide or charcoal. Only after thoroughly drying for several days is the tuber ready for packaging.
⚠️ Attention: Do not cut the remaining stem too short, leave a stump 1-2 cm high so as not to damage the growth point, which may be located near the surface.
☑️ Preparing gloxinia for storage
Particular attention should be paid to disinfection, since fungal spores spread faster in the confined space of the refrigerator. The use of maxim or foundazol at this stage is a standard practice of professional flower growers, guaranteeing the safety of planting material.
Choice of location and temperature in the refrigerator
Placing tubers in the refrigerator requires an understanding of the operation of the household appliance. The main compartment of the refrigerator, where food is usually stored, has a temperature of about +4...+5 degrees, which may be a little cold for some varieties of gloxinia. The optimal place is the compartment for vegetables and fruits (zero zone), where the temperature is often slightly higher and more stable, or the lower shelves of the main chamber, if there is no super-cooling zone.
It is critically important to avoid placing tubers near the back wall of the refrigerator. At this point there is direct contact with the cooling element, and the temperature can drop below zero, which will cause tissue damage. Also, you should not put tubers in door niches, since when the door is opened, the most dramatic temperature changes occur there. frostbite fabrics. Also, you should not put tubers in door niches, since when the door is opened, the most dramatic temperature changes occur there.
To monitor environmental conditions, it is recommended to place a regular household thermometer next to the tubers. This will allow you to make sure that the selected location actually supports a range of +10...+15 degrees. If your refrigerator does not allow you to set this temperature, you may have to consider storing it on a glassed-in balcony or in the basement.
Temperature stability is more important than the ideal degree. Sharp jumps from +5 to +15 degrees with frequent opening of the door can provoke the awakening of the kidneys or, conversely, damage the tissue structure. Try to open the refrigerator as little as possible if your flowers are stored there.
Proper packaging and humidity control
Packaging plays a critical role in the success of wintering, as it must balance between protecting against drying out and providing ventilation. Using sealed bags without air access is a common mistake that leads to condensation and mold growth. The tuber must “breathe”, so the ideal solution would be bags with perforations or containers with holes.
It is best to use slightly moistened vermiculite, peat or sphagnum moss as a filler (substrate) for packaging. These materials have excellent hygroscopicity: they release moisture if the air becomes too dry and absorb excess, preventing rotting. Dry sawdust or sand can also be used, but it is more difficult to moisten them evenly.
The packaging process is as follows: a layer of substrate is poured onto the bottom of the bag or container, then the tuber is laid and poured on top. The bag is not tied tightly, but only slightly twisted or closed with a small gap. This creates the necessary microclimate with high air humidity, but without direct contact with water.
What to do if condensation appears?
If you notice drops of water on the walls of the bag, immediately open it and dry the tuber and substrate at room temperature for several hours. Then replace the filler with a dry one and store it again. Excess moisture is the main enemy of a dormant tuber.
Regular inspection of the packaging is mandatory. Check the condition of the tubers every two to three weeks. If you notice that the substrate is completely dry, you need to lightly spray it with water from a spray bottle. If mold appears, the tuber is washed in a solution of potassium permanganate and the packaging is changed.
Comparison table for storage methods
There are several ways to organize wintering, and the choice depends on your capabilities and the number of plants. Below is a comparative description of the main methods so that you can choose the most suitable one for your situation.
| Method | Temperature conditions | Risks | Recommended period |
|---|---|---|---|
| In the refrigerator (in packaging) | +10...+15°C | Drying out, mold with poor ventilation | 3-4 months |
| On the windowsill (in a pot) | +18...+22°C | Depletion, stretching, premature growth | 1-2 months |
| In the basement/cellar | +5...+10°C | Rodents, freezing in severe frosts | 4-5 months |
| In the bathroom | +15...+18°C | High humidity, risk rotting | 2-3 months |
As can be seen from the table, storage in refrigerator is one of the most controlled methods, especially for urban residents who do not have basements. However, it requires more careful attention to packaging than storage in the ground in a cool room.
When choosing a method, also take into account the variety of gloxinia. Some terry varieties are more capricious and demanding of temperature than simple bell-shaped forms. For valuable collectible items, the refrigerator often becomes the only salvation from hot batteries.
Typical mistakes and problems when storage
Even experienced gardeners can make mistakes that lead to loss of planting material. The most common problem is rotting of the tuber, which is often caused by improper drying before harvesting or excessive moisture in the packaging. If the tuber has become soft and dark spots have appeared, you can try to save it by cutting out the rotten tissue and processing the sections, but the chances of success are reduced.
The other extreme is complete drying. If the tuber shrivels and loses turgor, it means that the humidity in the storage was insufficient. In this case, you can try to revive it by soaking it in warm water with the addition of a growth stimulant, but overdried tubers are often no longer able to restore viability viability.
Premature awakening is another common problem. If in February you notice sprouts on a tuber, this is a signal that the storage temperature needs to be lowered or, conversely, the plant should be planted. It is impossible to leave a sprouted tuber in the dark, as the sprouts will be pale, weak and can easily break off.
- 🍄 The appearance of mold indicates poor ventilation or insufficient treatment before storage.
- 🥀 Wrinkling of the tuber indicates critically low air humidity in the package.
- 🌱 Early germination indicates too high a storage temperature or long daylight hours.
- 🦠 Rot is often the result of mechanical damage during digging.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that a tuber has begun to rot, immediately isolate it from the rest. Fungal infections in the confined space of the refrigerator spread instantly.
Awakening and the beginning of a new season
The end of February or the beginning of March is the time when gloxinias begin to awaken. Remove the tubers from the refrigerator gradually, allowing them to adapt to room temperature during the day right in the package. This will help avoid heat shock and condensation on the surface.
After adaptation, the tubers are inspected, old roots and remains of stems are removed, then planted in fresh, loose soil. The pot should not be too large, otherwise the plant will build up the root mass to the detriment of flowering. The first watering should be moderate so as not to provoke rotting of the roots that have not yet developed.
Put the awakened plants in a bright place, but protect them from direct sunlight. With proper storage and proper awakening, gloxinia will quickly increase its green mass and will delight you with the first buds in a couple of months.
Remember that each tuber is individual, and observing it during the winter will help you better understand the needs of your particular plant. The experience gained during storage is invaluable for further successful floriculture.
Is it possible to store gloxinia tubers in the freezer?
Absolutely not. The temperature in the freezer drops below -18 degrees. The water in the plant cells will freeze, the ice crystals will rupture the cell membranes, and after defrosting the tuber will turn into a shapeless mass. Only a refrigerator compartment with a temperature above zero is suitable for storage.
What to do if a tuber in the refrigerator becomes moldy?
It is urgent to remove the tuber, wash it in a solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicide (for example, Fitosporin). Cut off all affected areas with a sterile knife, sprinkle the sections with activated carbon. Dry the tuber thoroughly for 24 hours, replace the substrate in the package with a new one and disinfect the container or bag.
Do you need to water the tubers while storing in the refrigerator?
No, you do not need to water them. The moisture contained in the tuber itself and in the slightly moistened substrate (vermiculite or peat) is enough for the entire dormant period. Excessive watering at this time is guaranteed to lead to rot. If the substrate is dry, you can only lightly spray it with water from a spray bottle.
How can you tell that a gloxinia tuber has died?
A living tuber feels elastic and hard to the touch. If it becomes soft, flabby, turns black inside or gives off an unpleasant putrid odor, it means the plant has died. You can still try to revive a wrinkled but hard tuber, but soft mush is an irreversible process.