How to replace the thermostat in the Atlant refrigerator: complete instructions

A sudden stop of the compressor or, conversely, its endless cycle without stopping are sure signs that there is a failure in the temperature control system. Most often, the culprit of such problems in domestic refrigerators made in Belarus is thermostat, which ceases to correctly read data about the microclimate inside the chambers. If you notice that the food in the refrigerator compartment is starting to thaw, and the frost has disappeared on the back wall of the freezer, or the unit hums for days on end without turning off, then it’s time to diagnose and, probably, replace this important unit. Self-repair in this case is quite possible for a person with basic skills in handling tools, but requires attention to detail and strict adherence to safety precautions.

Before buying a new part, you should make sure that the problem lies there, and not in a freon leak or a malfunction of the start relay. Thermoregulator is responsible for opening and closing the electrical circuit depending on the temperature that it “feels” through its capillary tube. In models Atlant with mechanical control, this element is consumable, and its resource is limited by the number of compression and release cycles of the bellows. Understanding the principle of operation will help you not only replace the part, but also adjust it correctly after installation, avoiding repeated breakdowns.

The replacement process does not require complex industrial equipment, but you will need a standard set of screwdrivers, side cutters and, possibly, a multimeter for the initial check. It is important to understand that replacing a thermostat is an intervention in the electrical circuit, so all work should be carried out exclusively with the device disconnected from the network. In this article we will examine in detail the stages of dismantling the old regulator, the features of installing a new one and the subtleties of setting the temperature regime for various modifications of refrigerators.

Diagnostics of a thermostat malfunction

The first step in any repair is to accurately determine the cause of the breakdown. If your refrigerator Atlant stops turning off or does not want to start at all, this does not always mean the death of the compressor. Often the problem is the sensor, which is “stuck” in one position. For the initial check, you can use a simple method: if when you turn the regulator knob to the extreme position (usually counterclockwise until it stops), you do not hear a characteristic click, and the compressor is silent, then the circuit is not closed. This may indicate a break inside the thermostat itself.

A more accurate result will be obtained by using multimeter. You will need to remove the casing, get to the thermostat contacts and “ring” them. In normal condition at room temperature, the contacts should be closed (the device will show zero or a value close to it). If you turn the knob to minimum and the contacts open, making a click, and the multimeter shows one (break), then the mechanism is working correctly. Lack of response to turning the knob or a constant “peeking” in any position indicates the need to replace.

There is also an elimination method, which is often used by craftsmen in the absence of tools. If you have a known-good thermostat with similar parameters, you can temporarily connect it without screwing it to the body. If the refrigerator works as it should, the diagnosis is confirmed. However, this method is only suitable for those who already have experience working with electricians and understand which contacts to connect.

⚠️ Attention: Before starting any diagnostic work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. An attempt to ring live contacts will lead to instant failure of the multimeter and possible electric shock.

It is also worth paying attention to the condition of the capillary tube. If it shows signs of corrosion, kinks, or is torn from the evaporator, then the thermostat will show incorrect data, even if its internal mechanics are intact. In such cases, replacing the entire assembly is the only correct solution.

Choosing a suitable thermostat model for Atlanta

The spare parts market for household appliances offers many analogues, but for refrigerators Atlant it is critically important to choose a thermostat with the correct characteristics. The bulk of these refrigerators are equipped with regulators of the TAM series (manufactured by Danfoss/Secop) or their direct analogues from other factories, such as K-59, K-50 or TSN. The difference between them is the length of the capillary tube, the temperature range of operation and the type of contacts.

The length of the capillary tube is a parameter that cannot be ignored. If you buy a thermostat with a tube shorter than the original one, it simply will not reach the mounting location on the evaporator, and the sensor will hang in the air, measuring the temperature inside the cabinet, not the freezer. This will lead to incorrect operation: the refrigerator will either not freeze or work non-stop. Standard tube lengths vary from 0.75 to 3 meters, so before purchasing, remove the old thermostat and measure it.

Below is a table of correspondence of the most popular thermostat models for various series of refrigerators Atlant:

When purchasing, pay attention to the number of contacts. A standard thermostat for a single-compressor refrigerator has three terminals (or two, if the third is grounding the case). For two-compressor models Atlant double thermostats or separate regulators for each chamber can be used. The type of fastening of the terminal block is also important: it can be removable or non-removable, which affects the ease of installation.

⚠️ Attention: Do not try to install a thermostat with a wider temperature range than provided by the design. This will cause food in the refrigerator to freeze and food to melt in the freezer.

If you are not sure about the choice, it is best to take the old thermostat with you to the store or take a photo of its markings. Consultants of specialized spare parts stores will be able to select an exact analogue from the photo.

Necessary tools and workplace preparation

To successfully replace the thermostat, you do not need the entire arsenal of a professional mechanic, but having a high-quality tool will greatly simplify the task and reduce the risk of damaging the plastic elements of the case. First of all, prepare a set of screwdrivers: a Phillips screwdriver (PH2) for removing the panels and a flathead one for carefully prying the latches. You will also need side cutters or wire cutters for cutting wires if you need to extend contacts, and pliers with narrow jaws.

Pay special attention to organizing your workspace. The refrigerator must be completely defrosted, since access to the evaporator is often located inside the chamber, and the presence of ice or water can lead to a short circuit or damage to the wire insulation. Prepare a container for collecting water and rags in advance. The lighting should be bright, since the inside of the refrigerator is dark, and the wires often have the same insulation color.

To connect the wires, it is best not to use twisting, which oxidizes over time, but special terminal blocks or soldering followed by heat shrink insulation. If you plan to solder, make sure that there is a socket for a soldering iron nearby, since working with an open flame near the plastic of the refrigerator is strictly forbidden.

Here is a list of what should be on hand before starting work:

• 🔧 A set of screwdrivers (phillips and flathead of different sizes).
• ✂️ Side cutters or wire cutters for working with wires.
• ⚡ Multimeter for checking the circuit and integrity of contacts.
• 🧵 Insulating tape and heat shrink tubes for insulating connections.
• 💡 Flashlight or headlamp for illuminating the internal camera.

⚠️ Attention: If the capillary tube of the new thermostat has a plastic braid, do not remove it under any circumstances or bend the tube at an acute angle. Damage to the capillary will lead to leakage of sensitive liquid and complete inoperability of the sensor.

Removing the old thermostat

The process of removing the thermostat in refrigerators Atlant may differ depending on the specific model, but the general algorithm of actions remains similar. First you need to remove the plastic cover that hides the temperature regulator. In most models, it is held on by latches, so you need to act carefully, prying it with a flat screwdriver from different sides, so as not to break the fasteners. After removing the cover, you will see the thermostat itself, the control knob and the fastening nut.

Remove the regulator knob by simply pulling it towards you. Then unscrew the nut that holds the thermostat to the housing. Now you need to gain access to the inside of the refrigerator compartment. To do this, remove the top cover of the refrigerator (if there is one) or the decorative panel at the top of the refrigerator compartment. It is through this hole that the capillary tube passes to the evaporator.

Carefully disconnect the wires from the thermostat contacts. Before doing this, it is strongly recommended that you take a photo of the connection diagram or sketch it, as the colors of the wires may fade and not be obvious. Usually one wire goes to the compressor, the other to the lamp or the second circuit, but it is better to double-check the color markings or diagram in the instructions. Then you need to very carefully pull the capillary tube out of its seat on the evaporator. It can be secured with a bracket or simply inserted into the hole. You need to pull smoothly, without jerking, so as not to damage the tube or adjacent elements of the cooling system.

If the old thermostat is installed in a hard-to-reach place, you may need to partially dismantle the internal plastic lining of the fridge compartment. In models Atlant with the No Frost system, access to the thermostat is often located behind the back wall inside the chamber, which requires removing shelves and air ducts.

Installation of a new regulator and connection

Installation of a new thermostat is done in the reverse order dismantling. First of all, it is necessary to correctly position the capillary tube. Its sensitive element should fit tightly to the surface of the evaporator in the place where the old sensor was attached. Often a special bracket or clamp is used for this. If the tube is longer than the original, its excess must be carefully rolled into a ring and placed in the free space behind the casing, avoiding kinks and contact with moving parts (if any) or sharp metal edges.

Secure the thermostat housing to the outer panel of the refrigerator by tightening the fastening nut. Make sure that the regulator rod protrudes straight so that the control handle fits without distortion. Now the most important step is connecting the electrical part. Using the photo or diagram you took earlier, connect the wires to the appropriate terminals. If the length of the wires is not enough, they can be extended using copper wire of the same cross-section. Be sure to insulate the connection points with heat shrink or high-quality electrical tape.

For models Atlant with a system No Frost it is important to correctly connect the contacts responsible for defrosting if they are connected to a thermostat (although more often there is a separate timer there). An error in the connection can lead to the evaporator becoming overgrown with a “coat” of ice, and the refrigerator will stop freezing.