How to turn off the compressor in an Atlant refrigerator: complete instructions

The need to force stop work refrigeration chamber motor Atlant usually occurs in two cases: either a complete diagnosis of the electrical circuit is required when troubleshooting, or the unit has failed and needs to be safely dismantled for disposal or transportation. In everyday life, users often confuse the concepts of “disable” and “block”, so it is important to immediately determine the purpose of the operation. If the refrigerator simply does not turn off on its own, the problem lies in the thermostat, and not in the need to physically break the compressor circuit.

For those who are faced with a situation where the motor hums, but there is no cold, or, conversely, works without stopping, interfering with the electrical circuit is the only way to check the performance of the engine itself. Direct connection or, conversely, opening the circuit requires strict adherence to the technique safety, since we are talking about a mains voltage of 220 volts. Before you begin disassembly, make sure you understand the risks and have the necessary tools on hand.

In this article we will look at mechanical and electrical methods for stopping the compressor, as well as methods for diagnosing the start relay, which is often the reason for the continuous operation of the unit. You will learn how to properly insulate contacts and why you cannot simply pull out the wires under load. Atlant refrigerators have their own design features that must be taken into account when carrying out repair work.

Diagnostics before intervening in the electrical system

Before Instead of climbing inside the housing and touching the wires, it is necessary to conduct an initial diagnosis to make sure that the problem really requires turning off the compressor. Often users try to “treat” symptoms, not realizing that the refrigerator is working properly, but is not configured correctly. Check the position of the temperature regulator: if it is turned to the maximum, the motor will work constantly, trying to achieve unattainable cold.

The second important stage is checking the tightness of the chambers and the condition of the seals. If warm air enters the chamber, it thermostat does not receive a signal that the desired temperature has been reached and does not give a command to stop. In models with the No Frost system, a frequent cause of endless operation is a malfunction of the defrost sensor or clogged drainage, due to which the evaporator becomes covered in ice and stops cooling.

  • 🔌 Check the integrity of the power cord and the presence of voltage in the outlet - power surges can knock down the electronics.
  • 🌡️ Make sure the thermostat is not stuck in the "Maximum" or "Frozen" position.
  • ❄️ Inspect the evaporator for excessive icing that is blocking heat transfer.
⚠️ Attention: If you plan to leave the refrigerator plugged in with the compressor turned off to check the operation of the lights or fans, make sure that the exposed contacts are reliably insulated to avoid a short circuit.

Only by eliminating external factors and simple malfunctions, does it make sense to move on to more complex manipulations with the electrical part. Remember that incorrect diagnostics can lead to the purchase of unnecessary spare parts or, worse, to the failure of a working compressor when trying to “revive” it with an incorrect connection.

Mechanical shutdown via a thermostat

The easiest and safest way to stop the compressor without disassembling the rear panel is to use a standard one thermostat. In most models Atlant with electromechanical control, the regulator handle is connected to a bellows tube, which reacts to changes in temperature. Turning the knob to the “Off” position (usually indicated by the number 0 or a dot) physically opens the contacts inside the thermostat.

However, if the thermostat is faulty and the contacts inside it are “stuck” in a closed state, mechanically turning the knob may not produce results. In this case, the motor will continue to hum, ignoring the position of the handle. This is a sure sign that the temperature sensor needs to be replaced or the circuit must be forced to open at the wiring level.

For models with electronic control, the situation is more complicated. Here the signal to turn on the compressor is given control module, receiving data from the air sensors. If the electronics are “buggy” and do not turn off the motor, simply turning the buttons on the panel will not correct the situation. You will need to either reset the settings (reboot) or physically turn off the relay on the control board, which is already a highly complex intervention.

Why does the relay click, but the compressor does not start?

If you hear a click, but the motor is silent or hums for a couple of seconds and turns off, the problem may be in a jammed compressor piston or burnt winding. In this case, it is not the thermostat that needs to be turned off, but power supplied directly through the starter for testing.

It is important to understand the difference between an emergency stop and scheduled maintenance. If the refrigerator hums continuously for several hours, this can lead to overheating of the windings and thermal breakdown of the insulation. In such a situation, turning off the power is a necessary step to save an expensive unit from final failure.

Electrical shutdown: access to the compressor

If software methods and a thermostat do not help, you have to move on to the “heavy artillery” - physically disconnecting the compressor from the power supply. To do this, you need to gain access to the motor-compressor, which in refrigerators Atlant is located in the lower rear part of the case. First, disconnect the unit from the mains by removing the plug from the socket - this is a mandatory safety requirement.

Remove the rear metal cover covering the compressor compartment. It is usually secured with four bolts or latches. Once the cover is removed, you will see a black compressor “tank” with copper tubing and electrical cable attached to it. The cable enters a plastic box attached to the side or top of the motor - this is the mounting location for starter and the protective relay.

  • 🔧 Prepare a screwdriver (Phillips or flathead, depending on the fastener) and side cutters.
  • 🧤 Wear rubber gloves to protect against possible residual charge or (oil).
  • 🔦 Ensure that the work area is well lit, as the compressor niche is often dark.
⚠️ Attention: Do not attempt to remove the terminal box or relay while the refrigerator is plugged in. Even after turning off, wait 2-3 minutes for the capacitors in the starting circuit to discharge.

Carefully inspect the junction of the wires. In older models, the wires can enter directly into the terminal block, in new ones - through a connector. Your task is to break the circuit going to the motor windings. Most often, it is enough to disconnect the wires coming from the power cable to the relay input terminals, or completely remove the relay from the compressor contacts, if the design allows this to be done without damaging the wires.

Replacing and checking the starting relay

Often the question “how to turn off the compressor” arises in the context of checking the engine itself. If you suspect that the problem is not in the motor, but in starting relayit must be removed and checked. The relay in refrigerators Atlant is usually combined with a thermal release and is attached to three contacts coming out of the compressor.

To remove the relay, you must first remove the fixing bracket (U-shaped plate) that presses the box to the motor housing. After this, the relay block is gently rocked and pulled down. Inside you will see two main components: a posistor (starter) and a bimetallic strip (thermal protection). It is these elements that often fail, causing the compressor to work incorrectly.

☑️ Checking the relay

Done: 0 / 4

If the relay is removed, the compressor is guaranteed to be turned off, since the circuit is broken. This is the ideal moment for diagnostics. You can try to start the motor directly, bypassing the standard relay, using a special button or an external starting device, but this should only be done if you have experience. A short start will help determine whether the motor is alive or blocked.

When installing a new relay, make sure that the markings match the original. For Atlantov relays of the RKT, RT series or foreign analogues such as Danfoss (now Secop) are often used. An incorrectly selected relay may not start the compressor or, conversely, not turn it off when overloaded, which will lead to combustion of the windings.

Compatibility and relay characteristics table

When replacing components, it is important to take into account the engine power and type of refrigerant, since the parameters depend on this protection activation. Below is a table with approximate data for popular models of compressors used in refrigerators Atlant.

Compressor type Power (W) Relay type Refrigerant
Atlant SKNB 105 135-150 RKT-1, RTK-X R12 / R134a
Atlant SKNB 120 160-180 RKT-2, RTK-2 R134a
Atlant SKNB 140 200-220 RKT-3, RTK-3 R134a
Secop (Danfoss) NL9FT 140-160 101N0110 R600a

Using a relay with unsuitable characteristics can lead to the compressor either not starting (insufficient starting current) or operating with overheating (cut-off current is too high). Always check the markings on the motor nameplate with the data on the body of the relay being replaced.

Safety and contact insulation

If your goal is to temporarily remove the compressor from the circuit while leaving the refrigerator plugged in (for example, to operate the No Frost system or lighting), you need to properly insulate the cut or disconnected wires. Use high quality insulating tape or heat shrink tubing. Simply twisting the wires is not enough - this can lead to sparking and fire.

Pay special attention to the grounding wires. In refrigerators Atlant the compressor housing is often connected to a common ground loop. When turning off the motor, make sure that you do not break the grounding circuit for the rest of the unit if it passes through the compressor terminal block.

After all the manipulations, assemble the structure, but do not install the back cover yet. Plug in the refrigerator and check if there is any sparking at the connection point. If everything is calm, you can fix the wires with clamps so that they do not touch hot pipes or moving parts (if they were there, but there is no movement in the compressor area).

📊 For what purpose do you turn off the compressor?
Fault diagnosis
Replacement relay
Transportation
The refrigerator is not needed, but the light should be on
Other

Common mistakes when turning off the motor

Beginners often make mistakes that can aggravate the breakdown. One of the most common is an attempt to turn off a running compressor by opening the contacts under load. This causes a powerful electric arc, which burns out the contact group and can melt the plastic housing of the relay.

Another mistake is ignoring the condition of the wiring. If the wire insulation is yellowed, cracked or melted, it is dangerous to use such a refrigerator. When disconnecting the compressor, you may accidentally damage the thinned insulation, which will lead to a short circuit to the case.

  • ⚡ Do not use tape or low-quality electrical tape to insulate high-voltage connections.
  • 🚫 Do not leave disconnected wires dangling loosely - secure them.
  • 🔥 Do not touch the metal parts of the compressor when the refrigerator is plugged in.
⚠️ Attention: If, after turning off the compressor and turning on the refrigerator, you hear the hum of the transformer or see an indication on the panel, but the motor is silent, this is normal. If you hear a crackling sound or a burning smell, immediately unplug the plug from the socket.

What to do if the compressor does not start after turning it on

There are situations when, after diagnostics and reconnection, the compressor stops responding to startup commands. This may mean that the wire was damaged during the manipulation, or that the thermal protection was triggered and had not yet cooled down. Let the unit stand unplugged for at least 30-40 minutes.

If even after a rest the motor does not start, but hums or clicks, you may have broken the phasing (although this is less critical for single-phase motors) or damaged the contacts. Check the tightness of the relay on the compressor rod. The contacts must fit into the mating sockets with force, ensuring reliable electrical contact.

In the case when you are not confident in your abilities or diagnostics show complex faults (for example, breakdown of the winding on the body), it is better to contact to professionals. Self-repair of a refrigerator Atlant is possible, but requires care and understanding of the basics of electrical engineering.

FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions

Is it possible to permanently turn off the compressor and use the refrigerator as a cabinet?

Technically this is possible if the motor wires are completely insulated. However, in refrigerators with a No Frost system, the fan and defrost will stop working, which will lead to the appearance of condensation and mold inside the chambers. In conventional models (“crying evaporator”), use as a cabinet is acceptable, but you need to leave the doors ajar for ventilation.

Why does the Atlant compressor hum, but does not turn off?

Most likely, the thermostat is faulty (does not open the contacts) or there is a freon leak. If there is a leak, the temperature in the chamber does not drop to the set temperature, and the sensor constantly requires the motor to operate. Also, the reason may be a loose fit of the door.

How to check whether the compressor is alive without a relay?

To do this, you need to apply 220V voltage directly to the working windings (through a button and a capacitor, simulating the operation of a relay). If the engine starts confidently and picks up speed, it is in good working order. If it hums and knocks out plugs, the engine is jammed or has an interturn short circuit.

Is it dangerous to change the compressor relay yourself?

If you follow the electrical safety rules (disconnecting from the network), this is not dangerous. The main risk is damaging the copper tubes when removing the cover carelessly or connecting the wires incorrectly, which can lead to a short circuit.

How much does it cost to replace the starting relay for Atlant?

The cost of the relay itself varies from 500 to 1500 rubles depending on the model and manufacturer. The services of a replacement technician will cost additionally, usually in the range of 1000-2000 rubles, plus the cost of travel.