Situations when it is necessary to isolate one of the refrigerator chambers arise infrequently, but become an urgent need when the unit breaks down or storage needs change products. Owners of equipment Atlant with a system of two compressors find themselves in a more advantageous position, since the design makes it possible to theoretically separate the operation of the circuits. However, simply switching the toggle switch will not work - the physics of operation refrigerant and the tightness of the system require deeper intervention.
The main difficulty is that even when the freezer compressor is turned off, the cold from the working refrigerator compartment may leak through the common partition or ventilation ducts. This leads to unwanted freezing vegetables and fruits in the main chamber. In addition, leaving a faulty unit in the system can affect the operation of a working compressor if isolation measures are not taken.
This article is intended to reveal the technical nuances of the procedure. We'll look at temporary and permanent shutdown methods, electronic control circuits, and safety precautions. It is important to understand that any manipulations with electrical circuits require caution and compliance with the rules electrical safety.
The principle of operation of the Atlant two-compressor system
Refrigerators of the Belarusian brand, equipped with two motor-compressors, are actually two independent devices in one housing. Each circuit has its own compressor, condenser and evaporator. This means that theoretically, the failure of one unit should not block the operation of another, in contrast to No Frost systems with one motor, where a breakdown leads to the shutdown of the entire unit.
Nevertheless, the physical proximity of the chambers creates conditions for heat exchange. If the evaporator stops working in the freezer compartment, but continues to work in the refrigerator compartment, then (the temperature difference) creates a gradient. Cold air tends to take the place of warm air. In models Atlant with a weeping system or static cooling, this process is less pronounced, but in systems with forced air circulation (even partial) it can be critical.
The electronic control board (or mechanical thermostat) of each circuit operates autonomously. When you turn off one compressor, the second continues to receive signals from its temperature sensor. The main task when disconnecting is to make the system “think” that everything is normal, or to physically break the power supply circuit of the faulty unit without harming the rest of the electronics.
⚠️ Attention: In modern models with electronic control, turning off one compressor can cause an error on the display or the system goes into protective mode. Make sure that your model Atlant allows independent operation of the circuits without blocking.
The need to isolate the freezer compartment
Why even resort to such complex procedures? More often than not, the reason lies in the (economics of) renovation. If the freezer compressor burns out, and a new one is expensive or is not available, the owners prefer to temporarily operate the refrigerator as a single-chamber one. This allows you to store products in the main compartment without urgently purchasing a new unit.
The second reason is a change in life circumstances. The family has shrunk, freezing semi-finished products has ceased to be relevant, and the huge chest freezer downstairs simply wastes electricity. In this case, turning it off becomes a way to energy saving.
However, you cannot simply leave the freezer door open or turn it off with a button if the system does not provide for such a mode. Moist air from the refrigerator compartment will enter the cold zone, condense and turn into ice, which sooner or later will reach the defrost mechanisms or fans (if any).
Methods for turning off the freezer compressor
There are several approaches to solving the problem, ranging from simple mechanical to complex electrical. The choice of method depends on your qualifications and the specific model Atlant. The simplest, but not always effective way is to use standard regulators.
In some models, the freezer thermostat can be turned to the "0" or "Off" position. This opens the contacts and stops the motor. But in two-compressor systems there are often separate regulators, and they do not block each other. If the control is electronic, then it will not be possible to programmatically turn off one circuit without entering the service menu (which is often locked with a password).
A more radical method is to physically turn off the power to the compressor. To do this, you will need to remove the back cover of the unit, find the start-up relay of the faulty motor and break the circuit. This requires electrical skills. It is important not to damage the insulation of the wires of the adjacent, working compressor.
☑️ Power shutdown algorithm
The third option is to install an additional switch. This is the most civilized way. A toggle switch is inserted into the power circuit of one of the compressors (at the entrance to the refrigerator or inside on the motor wire). This allows you to return the functionality of the freezer at any time if repairs are made.
Technical nuances of thermal insulation and sealing
After the compressor stops, the freezer ceases to be a “refrigerator” and becomes simply an insulated box. However, as mentioned earlier, cold from the lower compartment (if it is working) or heat from the room will penetrate through the walls. If you leave your freezer empty, it must be thoroughly washed and dried.
It is critical to prevent air from circulating between the compartments. In older models Atlant there could be technical holes or leaks in the partition. They need to be sealed with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. It is best to secure the freezer door in the closed position using tape or straps to minimize heat gain.
If you plan to use the freezer as an additional refrigerator compartment (which is only possible in the summer or in a warm room), you can leave the door slightly open for ventilation, but this will increase the load on the main compressor. In this case, it is recommended to install an additional thermometer inside the freezer for control.
| Parameter | Normal state | When the freezer is turned off | Risk |
|---|---|---|---|
| Temperature in freezer | -18°C... -24°C | +5°C... +15°C | Bacteria reproduction |
| Energy consumption | High (2 motors) | Average (1 motor + heat gain) | Overconsumption due to leakage |
| Humidity | Low (ice) | High (condensation) | Mold and odor |
| Load on the main motor | Standard | Increased | Compressor wear |
Control of electronics and thermostats
In models Atlant with electronic control (panel on doors), the shutdown of one circuit is often perceived by the system as a sensor malfunction. The controller may try to start the compressor without receiving a response and go into error. In such cases, sometimes “cheating” the system helps: in place of the freezer temperature sensor, a resistor with a certain resistance is installed, simulating normal temperature.
For mechanical models, everything is simpler. Thermostat T-133 or a similar one installed in the freezer simply opens the circuit. The problem may occur if the capillary tube of the sensor is damaged when attempting to remove it. Therefore, if you are not planning a repair, it is better to leave the sensor in place, simply turning off the power to the motor itself.
Secrets of the service menu
In some Atlant models, entering the service menu is carried out by (holding) certain buttons, for example, 'Defrost' and 'Temperature' at the same time within 5-10 seconds. There you can find the 'Disable Freezer' option, but changing the settings without an access code may reset the entire firmware.
If you change the thermostat, make sure that its characteristics match the volume of the chamber. Installing a regulator that is too “weak” will lead to frequent switching on, and a “strong” one will lead to insufficient cooling, which in the case of one working circuit can disrupt the settings of the main refrigeration compartment through a common wall.
Safety and malfunction prevention
Working with live electrical appliances is deadly. Before any manipulations with wires, relays or control boards, the refrigerator must be completely disconnected from the network. Do not rely only on the switch on the case - unplug the cord from the socket.
When turning off the compressor, remember that the system remains freon under pressure. Do not under any circumstances cut through the copper pipes of the refrigeration circuit unless you plan to have it professionally refilled. Cutting the pipes will lead to an instant release of gas and the entry of moisture and air into the system, which will make further repairs impossible or extremely expensive.
⚠️ Attention: Freon used in refrigerators (R600a) is a flammable gas. Work to open the circuit should be carried out in a well-ventilated area, away from open flames and sparking tools.
It is also worth monitoring the condition of the door seals. If the freezer is not running, the temperature difference between the inside and the room is smaller, but condensation can still form on the cold metal parts of the cabinet, causing corrosion. Wipe the interior surfaces regularly.
Common mistakes when turning it off yourself
The most common mistake is trying to seal the freezer door tightly with tape without first washing and drying. Remaining moisture will turn into a breeding ground for bacteria. Before preservation, the camera must be washed with a soda solution and thoroughly dried with a hairdryer.
The second mistake is incorrect connection of the wires. Twisting of the wires of the main and auxiliary compressors is prohibited. This can lead to a short circuit and failure of both motors or a fire in the wiring. Use only terminal blocks or high-quality soldering with insulation.
The third mistake is ignoring the load on the network. If you are connecting your refrigerator through an extension cord or tee, make sure it can handle the starting current of the remaining running compressor. Cheap extension cords often melt when starting the motor.
Return to normal operation
If you decide to restore the functionality of the freezer (bought a new compressor or evaporator), the return procedure requires careful checking. First, make sure that all connections are restored reliably, the insulation is removed from the necessary contacts.
Before connecting to the network, check the resistance of the compressor windings with a multimeter. It should be within normal limits (usually from 10 to 30 Ohms for the working winding, the starting winding may be higher). If the resistance tends to zero or infinity, the motor has burned out.
After connecting, let the refrigerator run idle (without food) for several hours. Monitor the temperature in both chambers. If the freezer does not get cold, there may be no freon in the system or the capillary tube is clogged, and you will need to call a technician for evacuation and refilling.
Is it possible to use an Atlant refrigerator with one compressor running all the time?
Technically this is possible, but is not recommended by manufacturers. The main compressor will experience increased thermal load due to the lack of a cold buffer zone on the freezer side. This can reduce its service life by 30-40%.
What should you do if, after turning off the freezer, the main refrigerator begins to freeze more intensely?
This is a consequence of a violation of heat transfer. Try setting the main camera thermostat to a less intense setting. If this does not help, the air circulation inside the case may be impaired, and the ventilation ducts between the compartments will need to be checked.
Is it necessary to remove freon from a disconnected circuit?
No, you cannot remove freon. The circuit must remain sealed. If you simply turn off the electrics, the gas remains in the tubes and condenser under pressure. Opening the circuit is required only when completely replacing the evaporator or compressor.
Why does a disconnected compressor hum?
If the compressor is electrically disconnected, but hums, it means that vibration is transmitted from a working neighbor through the housing or tubes. If the electrically disconnected motor hums when plugged in, the start relay may be stuck or the piston group is jammed.