Removing the compressor (motor) of a refrigerator is a task that is faced with serious breakdowns: failure to start, constant humming without cooling, or a refrigerant leak. In 90% of cases, the motor is located at the bottom of the rear wall and is hidden under a metal casing with a relay. But before you start disassembling, it is important to understand: the compressor is the heart of the refrigeration system, and its incorrect dismantling can lead to a complete loss of functionality of the unit.
In this article we will figure out how to safely remove the motor from refrigerators of popular brands (Atlant, Indesit, Samsung, LG), what tools will be needed, and what to pay attention to so as not to damage the freon tubes. We will also tell you in which cases it is better to entrust disassembly to professionals - for example, if you need resoldering pipes or changing the oil in the compressor.
Preparation for work: tools and safety measures
Before opening the engine compartment, make sure that refrigerator completely unplugged at least 30 minutes. This is necessary to discharge the capacitors in the starting relay - they can store dangerous voltage even after being turned off. Also prepare your work space: the refrigerator should be on a flat surface, and there should be enough room around it to maneuver.
Here minimum set of toolsthat you will need:
- 🔧 Set of open-end and spanner wrenches (sizes 8, 10, 12, 14 mm)
- 🔨 Screwdrivers: Phillips (PH2) and flat (3–5 mm)
- 📏 Pliers with insulated handles
- 🧲 Multimeter for checking compressor windings
- 🔥 Gas torch or hair dryer (for desoldering tubes)
- 🛠️ Set of hexagons (for some models Bosch and Liebherr)
⚠️ Attention: If your refrigerator runs on isobutane (R600a) —the refrigerant is extremely flammable! Do not use open fire near the pipes. For such models, it is better to use special pipe cutter or call a specialist.
It will not be amiss to photograph the location of all the wires and tubes on the motor in advance - this will simplify reassembly. And if you plan to replace the compressor, check its model (usually indicated on the sticker on the side) and order a similar one in power and type of refrigerant.
Step 1: Removing the back cover and accessing the compressor
On most refrigerators, the motor is hidden behind a metal or plastic panel at the bottom of the back wall. To remove it:
- Unscrew it. screws securing the cover (usually 4-6 pieces around the perimeter). In models Samsung RL-series you may need to first remove the lower decorative strip.
- Carefully remove the panel by pulling it towards you. Sometimes it sits on the latches - do not use excessive force to avoid it. break the plastic.
- Under the cover you will see a compressor (black or gray cylinder), a start relay (a box with wires) and a condenser (a grid of tubes).
At this stage do not touch the tubes —they are filled with refrigerant under pressure. If you notice traces of oil or rust on the compressor, this may indicate wear of the seal or leakage of freon —in this case, disassembly will require additional precautions.
Integrity of insulation on the wires|No swelling on the condenser|Attaching the tubes to body|Sticker with compressor model-->
Step 2: Disconnecting electrical connections
Before removing the compressor, you must disconnect all electrical connections. Start with the start relay:
- Take a photo of the location of the wires or mark them with tape.
- Disconnect the relay terminals from the compressor. Usually they are attached using spring clips - carefully pry them off with a screwdriver.
- Unscrew the bolts securing the relay to the compressor housing (usually 2 pieces).
- Check the capacitor: if it is swollen or leaking, you will also have to check it replace.
Important: on some models (Indesit C132, Atlant MXM-1708) the relay and capacitor are combined into one unit. In this case, remove the entire unit without disassembling it.
⚠️ Attention: If you see traces when disconnecting the wires melting or smell of burning - this is a sign turn-to-turn short circuit in the compressor windings. In this case, the motor must be replaced, not repaired.
| Refrigerator brand | Relay mounting type | Features |
|---|---|---|
| Atlant, Turk | M5 bolts | The relay often sticks - WD-40 may be required |
| Samsung (No Frost) | Latch | The terminals are fragile, remove carefully |
| Indesit, Ariston | M6 bolts | The capacitor is integrated into the relay |
| LG (Inverter) | Spring clamps | A screwdriver with a thin tip is required |
Step 3: Unsoldering the tubes and removing the compressor
The most critical step is disconnecting the copper tubes connecting the compressor to the system. There are two options here:
- 🔥 Desoldering with a torch - the classic method, but it requires experience. Heat the soldering area until the solder melts (about 250°C), then carefully separate the tubes. Do not overheat —the insulation of the windings can be damaged!
- 🛠️ Cutting with a pipe cutter —safer for for a beginner, step back 2-3 cm from the compressor and bite the tube, then flare the edge for future soldering.
After disconnecting the tubes:
- Unscrew 3-4 bolts securing the compressor to the frame of the refrigerator (usually M8 or M10).
- Carefully remove the motor without turning it over - oil may remain inside.
- Plug open system tubes with plugs or electrical tape to prevent moisture and debris from entering.
Checking the compressor: how to determine the malfunction
Before installing the compressor back or buying a new one, check its functionality. Here 3 key tests:
- Checking the winding resistance:
- Switch the multimeter to ohmmeter mode (200 Ohm).
- Measure the resistance between the terminals:
- 🔌
C (common)→S (starting): 20–40 Ohm - 🔌
C→R (working): 10–20 Ohm - 🔌
S→R: the sum of the two previous values
- 🔌
Switch the multimeter to the 2 MOhm limit and measure the resistance between the terminals and the compressor housing. The value should be more than 2 MOhm. If it is less, the motor “breaks through” onto the housing.
Connect the compressor to the power source (via a relay!) and measure the pressure on the discharge tube with a pressure gauge. Normal: 15–25 atm. If the pressure is below 10 atm - wear of the piston group.
⚠️ Attention: If the compressor hums but does not create pressure, this may indicate shaft jamming or oil loss. In this case, repairs will cost more than a new motor.
How to check a compressor without a pressure gauge?
If there is no pressure gauge, you can Approximately assess the performance of the motor using indirect signs:
1. Connect the compressor to the network (via a relay!) and touch the discharge tube - it should heat up in 10-15 seconds.
2. If the tube remains cold and the motor is humming, most likely the valves are not sealed or the piston is worn out.
3. Strong knocking or vibration during operation indicates destruction of the bearings or loosening of the fastenings.
Installing a new compressor: step-by-step instructions
If the old motor cannot be repaired, it is replaced with a new one. It is important to choose a model with the same parameters:
- 🔄 Type of refrigerant (R134a, R600a, R12)
- 🔋 Power (W) and operating current (A)
- 📏 Dimensions and location of pipes (left/right)
Installation process:
- Install the new compressor on the frame, securing it with bolts. Do not tighten them too much - you can break the threads.
- Solder the tubes using copper-phosphorus solder and flux. soldering must be sealed - check with a soap solution (if bubbles appear, there is a leak).
- Connect the starting relay and capacitor, observing the polarity (see photo taken before disassembly).
- Fuel the system refrigerant. For this you will need vacuum pump a cylinder with freon. If you have no experience, it is better to call a specialist.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when disassembling the compressor Here TOP-5 misses and their consequences:
| Error | Consequences | How to avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Overheating of tubes during soldering | Oxidation of copper, leakage freon | Use a gas burner with a narrow flame |
| Incorrect freon filling | The refrigerator does not freeze or works without stopping | Fill using a pressure gauge or scale |
| Use of incompatible oil | Compressor seizure after 1-2 months | Check the compatibility of the oil with the refrigerant |
| Leaky soldering | Gradual leakage freon | Check with a soapy solution |
| Mixed-up wires on the relay | The compressor does not start or burns out | Mark the wires before disconnecting |
Another one a common problem is moisture getting into the system during long-term disassembly. If the refrigerator has been left without freon for more than a day, the system must be vacuumized for at least 30 minutes before refilling.
When it is better to entrust disassembly to a professional
Despite Despite the apparent simplicity, there are situations when independent repair of the compressor is risky:
- 🔧 If required oil change - this requires special equipment for pumping and filling.
- ⚡ If the compressor inverter type (LG, Samsung with Digital Inverter) - its electronics are sensitive to incorrect connection.
- 🧊 If the refrigerator operates on R600a - this refrigerant is explosive, and soldering must be performed by a certified technician.
- 🔄 If necessary re-solder the tubes in hard-to-reach places (for example, in models with an overhead motor).
The cost of professional compressor repair in 2026 varies from 5,000 to 15,000 rubles (depending on the region and model of the refrigerator). However, it is still cheaper than buying a new unit, especially when it comes to premium brands (Liebherr, Miele).
⚠️ Please note: Prices for spare parts and labor may vary depending on the service center. Check current rates on the websites of official partners or by phone.
FAQ: Answers to common questions questions
Is it possible to turn on the refrigerator without the back cover?
For a short time (for 10-15 minutes) - yes, but only for diagnostics. Long-term operation without a cover will lead to overheating of the compressor and dust getting on the condenser, which will worsen heat transfer. Also, open relay contacts can cause a short. short circuit.
How to understand that the compressor has burned out, and not the relay?
Disconnect the relay and apply voltage directly to the compressor (to the terminals C and RIf the motor does not start, the problem is in it. If it starts, it is to blame. relay. Attention: this test requires skills in working with electricity!
How much oil should be poured into the new compressor?
The volume of oil is indicated on the compressor nameplate (usually 200–400 ml For refrigerators). on R600a used synthetic. oil (for example, Emkarate RL68H), for R134a — mineral (for example, Suniso 3GSIt is impossible to mix oils of different types!
What to do if after replacing the compressor the refrigerator does not freeze?
There may be several reasons:
- Insufficient freon filling (needs to be refilled).
- Clogged capillary tube (nitrogen purge required).
- Malfunction of the thermostat or electronic unit.
- Freon leakage through poorly soldered connections.
Start by checking the pressure in the system with a pressure gauge.
Is it possible to repair the compressor or just replace it?
In 90% of cases, the entire compressor is replaced, since its repair (replacement of valves, pistons, seals) is more expensive than a new one and does not guarantee durability. The exception is replacement start relay or capacitor. which are inexpensive and easy to install.