Disconnecting the refrigerator compressor: step-by-step instructions with photos and advice from professionals

Disconnecting the compressor from the refrigerator is a task encountered during a major overhaul, replacement of a unit, or disposal of equipment. This procedure requires not only technical skill, but also an understanding of the principles of operation of the system. Compressor (or the refrigerator motor) is the heart of the unit, and its improper dismantling can lead to a refrigerant leak, damage to the tubes, or even an explosion of the condenser. In this article, we will look at how to safely turn off the compressor on refrigerators of different brands, what tools you will need, and what to pay attention to so as not to turn the repair into a costly mistake.

It is important to understand: the dismantling process depends on the type of refrigerant (for example, R134a or R600a), refrigerator design (single-chamber, double-chamber, with system No Frost) and even year of manufacture. For example, models Samsung till 2018 often used solder joints, while new ones often used quick-release fittings. We will take these nuances into account and give universal recommendations that are suitable for 90% of household refrigerators.

If you have never worked with refrigeration equipment, it is better to entrust this task to a specialist. But if you decide to act on your own, follow our instructions carefully, without haste. Turning off the compressor without first depressurizing the system can lead to rupture of the tubes due to residual refrigerant pressure (up to 15 atmospheres in working refrigerators).

1. Preparing for dismantling: tools and safety measures

Before you start work, make sure that you have everything you need. The absence of even one tool can slow down the process or make it dangerous. Here is the minimum set:

• 🔧 Set of wrenches (required with heads of 8, 10 and 12 mm - standard for fastening compressors)
• 🔨 Screwdrivers (phillips and flat, preferably with insulated handles)
• 🧲 Gauge manifold (for monitoring the pressure in the system; can be rented)
• ⚡ Voltage tester (checking the circuit for de-energization is a mandatory step!)
• 🔥 Torch or blowtorch (for desoldering tubes; alternative - construction hair dryer)
• 🛠️ Pipe cutter or hacksaw for metal (in case you have to cut copper pipes)
• 🧤 Protective gloves and glasses (refrigerant can freeze the skin, and shavings can get into eyes)

Also prepare your work space: the refrigerator should be on a flat surface, there should be no flammable materials nearby. If dismantling takes place in an apartment, close the door to the kitchen and open the window - the refrigerant vapors are toxic. For models with inverter compressor (for example, LG GA-B489 or Samsung RB30J3000WW), you will additionally need capacitor block to discharge electrical circuits.

⚠️ Attention: If the refrigerator was running on refrigerant R600a (isobutane), remember: this gas is explosive at a concentration in air of 1.3%. Do not smoke or use open fire near the place of work!

Before starting, be sure to photograph the location of all tubes and wires on the compressor. This will help when reassembling or installing a new unit. Use a marker to mark the tubes (for example, “suction”, “discharge”, “capillary”).

2. Turning off the power supply and discharging the system

The first and most critical step is to completely cut off the power to the refrigerator. It is not enough to simply remove the plug from the socket: in some models (for example Bosch KAN90VI20R), capacitors can retain a charge for up to several hours. Here's how to proceed:

1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Remove the back cover (usually it is secured with 4-6 screws).
3. Find starting capacitor (cylindrical or rectangular block next to the compressor).
4. Use a screwdriver with an insulated handle to short-circuit the contacts of the capacitor for 2-3 seconds (this will discharge it).
5. Check with a tester that there is no voltage at the compressor terminals.

Now you need to bleed refrigerant. Do not pierce the tubes under any circumstances! This will cause an immediate release of gas and may damage the system. Instead:

• 🔧 Find service port (usually a copper extension with a valve on the discharge tube).
• 🛠️ Connect the pressure manifold to it (blue hose - on the suction side, red - on the discharge side).
• 📉 Slowly unscrew the valve on the manifold to release the gas. The pressure should drop smoothly!

If there is no port (often in older models ZIL or Minsk), you will have to snack capillary tube with wire cutters. Do this as close as possible to the filter drier to minimize oil losses.

⚠️ Attention: Refrigerant R12 (used before 2000s) destroys the ozone layer and is prohibited from free circulation. If your refrigerator is over 20 years old, hand it over for recycling - self-repair may be illegal.

Disconnect the refrigerator and discharge the capacitor|

Take a photo of the location of the tubes and wires|

Connect a pressure gauge manifold|

Relieve the refrigerant through the service port|

Wear protective gloves and goggles-->

3. Disconnecting electrical connections

Once the system is depressurized, you can begin to disconnect the wires. Carefully inspect the compressor: usually 3 wires are connected to it:

• Common (C) — common wire;
• Start (S) —starting;
• Run (R) —working.

In models with inverter control (for example, Hitachi R-BG410P6) there may be an additional connector for the control board. Carefully disconnect all wires, after photographing or labeling them. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry the terminal clamps.

Pay attention to starting relay —it may be:

• 🔌 External (mount on the bolts next to the compressor);
• 🔘 Built-in (part of the compressor housing, as in Whirlpool ART 9810).

If the relay is external, unscrew it and set it aside along with the wires. There is no need to dismantle the built-in relay - it will remain on an old compressor.

What to do if the wires are stuck to the terminals?

If the terminals are oxidized and the wires do not come off, do not pull them by force! Take WD-40 or alcohol, moisten the connection and wait 5-10 minutes. Then gently shake the wire from side to side. In extreme cases, you can heat it. terminal with a soldering iron (not higher than 100°C), but do not overdo it - the plastic parts of the compressor may melt.

4. Removing the tubes: soldering vs. cutting

The most critical step is disconnecting the copper tubes.

For soldering, use copper-phosphorus solder i flux for copper. Heat the soldering area with a torch to the melting temperature of the solder (about 700°C), then carefully separate the tube with pliers. Do not point the flame at the compressor housing - this may damage the insulation of the windings!

If there is nothing to solder with, cut the tubes with a hacksaw, stepping back 2-3 cm from the joint. After this, the edges of the tubes need flare (use a special tool or a conical mandrel) so that later. it was possible to put on the nuts for a new connection.

⚠️ Attention: When cutting the tubes, be sure to close the open ends with plugs or electrical tape! Dust and moisture entering the system will then damage the new compressor.

5. Removing the compressor from the shock absorbers

The compressor is attached to the frame of the refrigerator on rubber. shock absorbers (usually 3-4 pieces). To remove the compressor:

1. Unscrew the shock absorber mounting nuts (usually 10 or 12 mm).
2. Carefully lift the compressor by moving it forward or backward (depending on the model).
3. If the shock absorbers are stuck, spray them silicone grease and wait 10 minutes.

In some refrigerators (for example, Liebeherr CNef 4815the compressor is additionally fixed with a metal bracket. It must be unscrewed first. The weight of the compressor can reach 15-20 kg, so it is better to work with an assistant.

After dismantling, inspect it. shock absorbers: if the rubber is cracked or has lost its elasticity, replace them. They are inexpensive (from 100 rubles apiece), but greatly affect the noise of the refrigerator.

6. Checking the condition of the compressor and system

Before installing a new compressor or disposing of an old one, check:

• 🔍 Winding resistance (between terminals C-S, C-R, S-R). data-i="185">Winding resistance
  • C-S: 20-40 Ohm;
  • C-R: 10-20 Ohm;
  • S-R: sum of the first two (for example, 30+15=45 Ohm).

  Deviations speak of a break or an interturn short circuit.

• 💧 Oil level. If black liquid flows out of the tubes when tilting the compressor, the oil is contaminated and needs to be replaced.
• 🔧 Integrity of tubesInspect them for cracks or green deposits (a sign). corrosion).

If the compressor was removed for replacement, be sure to flush the system. To do this:

1. Connect a nitrogen cylinder to the service port.
2. Blow the system under a pressure of 6-8 atmospheres for 10-15 minutes.
3. Install a new one filter drier (costs 300-800 rubles, depending on the model).

Without washing, dirt particles and moisture will quickly damage the new one compressor!

7. Typical mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced technicians sometimes make mistakes when dismantling the compressor. Here are the most common ones. common:

• 🔥 Overheating of tubes when soldering → leads to the formation of scale inside the system. Solution: use flux and do not hold the torch in one place for more than 10 seconds.
• 💨 Sudden bleeding of refrigerant → may damage the compressor valves. Solution: bleed the gas slowly, monitoring the pressure using the pressure gauge.
• ⚡ Ignoring capacitor discharge → risk of impact current. Solution: always check with a tester!
• 🔧 Use of unsuitable solder → tin-lead solder does not withstand vibrations. Solution: only copper-phosphorus.
• 📏 Incorrect length of tubes after cutting → complicates the installation of a new compressor. Solution: leave a margin of 5-10 cm.

Another common problem is oil loss. The compressor usually contains 200-500 ml of oil, and if it is not added when installing a new unit, the service life will be significantly reduced. Use only original oil. (for example, Emkarate RL68H for R134a or BSE 170 for R600a).

If after replacing the compressor the refrigerator does not freeze, check:

• The connection is correct tubes (suction and discharge should not be mixed up!).
• The presence of refrigerant in the system (if it is not topped up, the compressor will run “idle”).
• The operation of the thermostat (sometimes the problem does not lie in the compressor).

8. Disposal of an old compressor

The compressor cannot simply be thrown into a trash container! It contains:

• 🛢️ Oil (300-500 ml, requires disposal as oil waste);
• ❄️ Remaining refrigerant (even after bleeding, it remains in the system up to 10-15% of gas);
• ⚡ Copper and aluminum (can be taken to a scrap metal collection point).

Where to take it:

• 🏭 Specialized recycling points (for example, "EcoSystem" or "Megapolisresurs").
• 🔄 Service centers (many accept old compressors when purchasing a new one).
• ♻️ Scrap metal collection points (they pay by weight, but may refuse if the oil is not drained).

Before disposal:

1. Drain the oil into an airtight container (you can use a plastic bottle).
2. Cut the tubes as short as possible to reduce the volume.
3. Remove the starting relay - it contains precious metals (silver in the contacts).

⚠️ Attention: For unauthorized release of refrigerant into the atmosphere (for example, if you release it on the street), a fine of up to 200,000 rubles is provided (Art. 8.2 Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation). Always use a pressure gauge manifold!

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about dismantling the compressor

Is it possible to turn off the compressor without bleeding the refrigerant?

No, this is extremely dangerous Even with the refrigerator turned off, the residual pressure of the refrigerant can reach up to! 5-15 atmospheres. When cutting the tubes without bleeding, gas will escape with force, which can lead to injury or damage to instruments. In addition, the refrigerant is toxic and explosive (especially R600a).

How can you tell if the compressor has burned out and not the thermostat?

Carry out a simple check:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the network.
2. Remove the terminals from the thermostat and short them together (with a wire jumper).
3. Plug the refrigerator into the network.

If the compressor hums, the problem is in the thermostat. If not, it is faulty. compressor or start relay. Also pay attention to temperature of the compressor housing: if it heats up to 80-90°C and turns off after 5-10 minutes, most likely the winding has burned out.

What to do if after replacing the compressor the refrigerator does not cools?

There may be several reasons:

• 🔄 Incorrect refrigerant charging (little gas or air in the system).
• 🔧 Confused tubes (suction and discharge).
• 🛠️ The capillary tube is clogged (you need to purge the system with nitrogen).
• ⚡ The starting relay is faulty (check the resistance).

You can do it yourself It is difficult to diagnose the problem - it is better to call a specialist with a pressure gauge manifold.

How much does it cost to replace a compressor at the service?

The cost depends on the refrigerator model and region:

Refrigerator type	Cost of work (rub.)	Compressor cost (rub.)
Single-chamber (Atlant, Biryusa)	3 500–5 000	4 000–7 000
Double-chamber (Indesit, Samsung)	5 000–8 000	6 000–12 000
Side-by-Side (LG, Samsung)	8 000–12 000	10 000–18 000
Inverter (Hitachi, Panasonic)	10 000–15 000	15 000–25 000

The cost of the work usually includes: dismantling the old compressor, flushing the system, installing a new unit, refrigerant charging and test run. Additionally, a technician may be paid for (500–1,500 rubles).

Is it possible to use a compressor from another refrigerator?

Theoretically, yes, but with reservations:

• 🔄 Power must match (for example, a compressor from Atlanta MHM-170 will not handle a two-chamber Samsung RL-44).
• 🛠️ Refrigerant type must be the same (for example, R134a incompatible with R600a).
• 🔌 Electrical parameters (voltage, current) must be suitable for your network.

It is better to use a compressor from a refrigerator of the same brand and volume. For example, a compressor from Indesit. C138G is suitable for Indesit C168N, but not for LG GA-B429.