The need to change the opening direction of the refrigerator door often arises when moving to a new apartment or after rearranging furniture in the kitchen. Sometimes the standard arrangement of handles simply interferes with convenient access to the shelves due to the layout of the room. Fortunately, most modern manufacturers of household appliances provide this possibility in the design of their units.
However, this process requires care and strict adherence to the sequence of actions, since improper dismantling it can lead to damage to the seals or the hinges themselves. Before starting work, it is important to make sure that your model generally supports reverse, since some budget or older modifications may have one-way mounts. In this article, we will analyze all the nuances of the procedure so that you can safely reinstall it yourself.
It is also worth considering that the weight of the door can be significant, especially if heavy balcony shelves or a display are attached to it. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to enlist the help of a second person who can hold the structure while unscrewing the bolts. This will avoid the heavy sash falling and possible leg injury or damage to the floor covering.
Preparation of the workplace and tools
Before starting physical work, it is necessary to prepare the space around the refrigerator. Move the unit away from the wall so that you can freely walk around it on all sides, providing good access to the ends and rear wall. It is better to cover the floor in the work area with thick cardboard or a soft blanket so that fallen small parts do not scratch the coating or get lost in the carpet pile.
To complete the task, you will need a standard DIY kit, which is usually found in every household. The main tool will be hex key (often included with the equipment), as well as Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers. In some cases, a 10 or 8 mm open-end wrench may be required, so it is better to prepare a complete set in advance.
- 🛠️ Set of screwdrivers of different sizes for different types of screws
- 🔑 Hex keys (metric and inch just in case)
- 🧤 Work gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal edges
- 📦 Container for storing removed bolts and plugs
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply! Remove the plug from the socket to eliminate the risk of a short circuit if the wiring is accidentally damaged while manipulating the case.
Also, do not forget to completely empty the doors of the contents. Remove all food, bottles and containers to keep the weight of the structure to a minimum. Remove any removable shelves, drawers, or trays that could fall out when the cabinet is tilted or the doors are removed. This will not only make your work easier, but will also keep your supplies intact.
☑️ Preparing for rehanging
Design analysis: symmetrical and asymmetrical hinges
The first and most important stage is determining the type of door fastening in your model. There are two main types of structures: with symmetrical (universal) hinges and with asymmetrical ones. The complexity of the procedure and the set of necessary actions depend on this. If the hinges are symmetrical, then on the opposite side of the case there are already response holes, closed with decorative plugs.
In the case of asymmetrical hinges the situation is more complicated. This often applies to models with a top freezer, where the top hinge may be universal, but the bottom is not, or vice versa. Sometimes, to rehang, it is necessary to replace the hinges themselves with mirror ones, which can come complete with the refrigerator or be sold separately.
How to distinguish symmetrical hinges?
Look at the end of the case from the opposite side. If there are visible threaded holes that match the current fasteners, and there are plastic plugs, the hinges are symmetrical. If there are no holes or they do not match in diameter/thread, the design is asymmetrical and may require replacement of fittings.
Particular attention should be paid to models with a system No Frost and electronic control. They often have a cable running through the top loop to the display or sensors. In such cases, simply rearranging the bolts is not possible without resoldering or extending the cables, which requires a qualified electrician. Some manufacturers provide connectors for quick disconnection, but this is rare.
>The need to replace hinges
| Type of construction | Presence of holes on the other side | Complexity of work | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Symmetrical | Yes (closed with plugs) | No | Low |
| Asymmetrical | No or do not match | Often required | High |
| With electronics | Yes | No, but loop analysis is required | Medium/High |
| Built-in appliances | Depends on the facade | Requires an overweight of the facade | High |
If you find that your model belongs to the category with complex electronics or a unique fastening system, it is better not to risk it. In this case, the only safe solution you will contact an authorized service center, since independent intervention may lead to loss of warranty.
Dismantling the upper part and removing the door
The process of removing the door always starts from the top. No matter which side you choose, you need to release the top mount first. Carefully remove the top hinge trim cover, if equipped. It is usually held on by latches or a small screw that needs to be unscrewed counterclockwise.
After gaining access to the mechanism, holding the door with one hand (or asking an assistant), unscrew the bolts securing the top hinge. Do not remove them completely at once, loosen them and leave them in the holes so that the loop does not fall, and then remove them completely. Now you can carefully lift the door and remove it from the lower pin hinge.
- 🚪 Remove the decorative panel of the upper hinge
- 🔩 Loosen and unscrew the fastening bolts
- 👐 Lift the sash and remove it from the lower pin
- 📥 Place the door on a prepared soft surface
When removing the door, be careful with the sealing rubber. Try not to touch the sharp corners of furniture or tools with it, as damage to the seal will disrupt the seal of the chamber. If heavy glass shelves are installed on the door, it is better to remove them in advance, even before unscrewing the hinges, in order to reduce the weight of the structure.
Flipping the bottom hinge and moving the fittings
The next stage is working with the bottom of the refrigerator. Here is the main support loop, which supports the weight of the entire structure. On most models, the bottom hinge is a metal plate that is attached to the body with several bolts. You need to unscrew them and remove the plate.
After dismantling, carefully inspect the removed part. Often the design of the lower hinge allows you to turn it 180 degrees or move the pin to another hole on the plate itself. If the pin is pressed or welded asymmetrically, it may be necessary to move the pin itself into the mirror hole on the body, if provided for by the design.
⚠️ Attention: When installing the pin in a new place, make sure that it is inserted all the way and secured with a locking screw (if there is one). An under-tightened pin will cause the door to skew and rapid wear of the sliding bearings.
Now let's move on to the door itself. You also need to rearrange the handle and, possibly, the lower fastening element. Handles are usually secured with screws from the inside or outside under caps. Move them to the opposite side using the prepared holes. If the model provides for the transfer of the lower fastening to the door, perform similar dismantling and installation operations.
Do not forget about the decorative plugs. Those holes that are free on the old side must be closed with plastic plugs, and on the new side they must be removed. This is important not only for aesthetics, but also to prevent moisture and dust from getting inside the refrigerator body.
Installing the door on a new side
When all the preparatory work is completed and the fittings have been moved, you can begin installation. Place the bottom hinge (or pin) in its new location and securely secure it with the bolts. Check the vertical position of the pin, as this will determine the tightness of the door when closed.
Carefully slide the door onto the lower pin, holding it in a vertical position. Make sure it fits evenly into the grooves. Now is the time to call a helper to hold the sash while you screw on the top hinge. Align the holes and insert the bolts, but do not tighten them all the way yet.
- 🔧 Install the lower support in a new place
- 🚪 Place the door on the lower pin
- 🔩 Screw the top hinge without tightening it all the way
- 📏 Check the evenness of the gaps around the entire perimeter
Position adjustment is a critical point. Opening and closing the door a little, check whether it touches the body and whether it is evenly adjacent to the seal. If everything is in order, tighten all the top and bottom hinge bolts evenly. Use a torque wrench or just act carefully so as not to strip the threads in the aluminum case.
Checking the tightness and adjusting the gaps
After installing the door, you need to make sure that it closes tightly and keeps the cold out. Visually inspect the perimeter of the seal. There should be no visible gaps or places where the rubber is coming away from the body. If you notice leaks, you may need to adjust the height of the door using the screws on the bottom hinge (if the design allows it).
There is a simple and effective way to check the tightness, known as the “paper test”. Take a regular A4 sheet of paper, clamp it with the refrigerator door and try to pull it out. The sheet should be removed with noticeable effort. If the paper falls out on its own or comes out too easily, it means that the seal is broken in this place.
If the door is skewed, you can try to correct its position. Some models have adjusting screws in the hinges for this purpose. By rotating them clockwise or counterclockwise, you can move the door slightly up, down, left or right. Do this gradually, a quarter turn at a time, checking the result each time.
⚠️ Attention: If after all the adjustments the door still does not fit tightly, the seal itself may be deformed or the geometry of the body may be damaged (for example, after transportation). In this case, it may be necessary to replace the rubber or align the body.
Also check the operation of the light switch (if it is mechanical and is located on the body and not on the door). When reversing the door to the other side, the light locking mechanism may stop functioning if it is not symmetrical. In such cases, sometimes it is necessary to move the switch itself or replace it with a universal one.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to reverse the door on a refrigerator with a display?
In most cases, no, or it is very difficult. Strings of wires are often fixed in length and will not reach the other side. Wiring or re-soldering is required, which should be done by a specialist.
Do you need to defrost the refrigerator before rehanging?
Full defrosting is not necessary if you work quickly. However, if you plan to turn off the refrigerator for a long time or tilt it more than 40 degrees, defrosting and draining the oil from the compressor (if required according to the instructions) are necessary.
What to do if the plugs for the holes are lost?
You can order original spare parts according to the model catalog number or use universal furniture plugs of suitable diameter and colors. You can also carefully seal the holes with aluminum tape from the inside if aesthetics are not critical.
Why did the door begin to close tighter after rehanging?
This is normal for the new position. The sealant needs time (from 1 to 3 days) to “diverge” and take a new shape. If the difficulty persists for a long time, check whether the hinge bolts are overtightened.