The situation when the refrigerator becomes flush against a wall or door frame, preventing the doors from opening, is familiar to many owners of household appliances. Often the only way out of the situation is reversing doors to the opposite side, which saves space and makes using the unit more convenient. Modern manufacturers, such as Bosch, LG and Samsung, often provide this possibility in the design, but the process itself requires care and adherence to a certain sequence of actions.
Before proceeding with dismantling, you need to make sure that your model technically supports reverse, since in some In budget series, hinges can be welded or not have symmetrical holes. It is also important to understand that the wrong sequence of operations can lead to damage seal or disruption of the housing geometry, so careful preparation and the availability of suitable tools are critical. Below we will look at a detailed algorithm of actions that will help you cope with the task yourself, without resorting to the services of paid specialists.
In some cases, owners are faced with the fact that after rearranging the door does not close tightly or sag, which requires additional adjustments. To avoid such problems, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the shelf, the condition of the fastening elements, and even the evenness of the floor in the room. The video instructions given in the article clearly demonstrate the nuances of working with various types of fasteners, however, the text description will allow you to delve deeper into the technical details of the process.
Preparation of tools and workplace
The beginning of any technical work with household equipment requires competent preparation, and rearranging the door refrigerator is no exception. You will need a basic set of tools, which is usually found in every home, but some models may require specific keys, for example hexagons or sockets of a certain size. The absence of the necessary tool during work can lead to thread breakage or damage to decorative plugs, so it is better to prepare everything in advance.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply by unplugging the plug from the socket to eliminate the risk of electric shock or short circuit in case of accident damage to the wiring.
The workplace should be free and well lit, as you will have to bend over and work with small parts close to the floor. Cover the area in front of the refrigerator with soft material, such as a blanket or cardboard, to prevent the stored parts from being scratched or lost. If you are working alone, make sure that you have a stable support or an assistant who can hold the heavy door while unscrewing hinges.
The list of necessary tools may vary depending on the brand and specific model of your refrigerator:
- 🔧 Screwdrivers: flat and Phillips (PH2) for removal plugs and dismantling handles.
- 🔩 A set of wrenches or a ratchet with heads (often 8 mm, 10 mm) for hinge bolts.
- 🛠️ Hex keys (imbus) for adjusting screws and specific fasteners.
- 🧤 Gloves to protect hands from sharp edges of the metal case and lubricant.
Some models, especially built-in or premium ones, may have hidden fasteners, covered with decorative panels or overlays. In such cases, you may need a plastic spatula or pick to carefully pry the elements without leaving marks on the glossy surface. It is important not to use metal objects with force where this is not clearly necessary, so as not to damage the paintwork.
It is also worth preparing a container or magnetic tray for storing bolts and screws, as they tend to get lost or roll under the refrigerator. If you are in doubt about the order of assembly, it is recommended to photograph each step of disassembly or lay out the parts in the order in which they were removed. This will greatly simplify the reassembly process when it comes time to install the door on the other side.
Analysis of the design and removal of door handles
The first practical stage of work is to study the design of your refrigerator and remove the door handles, if they are not a monolithic part of the body. In most modern models, such as Indesit or Atlant, the handles are attached with screws, access to which is hidden under decorative plugs or is located on the inside of the door. careful examination of the manual or visual inspection helps determine the type of fastening.
If the screws are hidden under plastic plugs, they must be carefully pryed out with a thin screwdriver or knife, being careful not to damage the plastic. In some cases, the handles may be held on by latches, and then it is necessary to apply a certain force, often with simultaneous pressure on the latches. Removing the handles is a critical stage, since they will interfere with the door's tight fit to the body after reversing it on the other side.
After removing the handles, inspect the ends of the doors and the upper/lower parts of the body for the presence of transportation bolts or additional fasteners. Some models have special plug holes on the opposite side where the loops will be transferred; they need to be unscrewed in advance and moved to the vacant places in order to maintain an aesthetic appearance. If this is not done, there will be unclosed holes in the case that violate tightness the appearance.
It is important to note that for two-chamber refrigerators, the procedure for removing the handles may differ for the upper and lower chambers. In models with the system No Frost next to the handles, display or backlight control cables often run, which require special care when dismantling. If you notice wires going to the handle, do not pull it sharply - first disconnect the connectors, having previously de-energized the device.
Removing the upper and lower hinges
The process of removing the hinges is the most critical moment, requiring physical strength and coordination, especially if you work without an assistant. The top hinge is usually held on by two or three bolts, which can be quite tight and may require considerable force to get them out of place. Before unscrewing, make sure that the door is securely locked in the open position or that a second person is holding it so that it does not fall.
After removing the top hinge, the door can be carefully lifted and removed from the bottom pin, however, some designs require preliminary removal of the bottom hinge. If your refrigerator has a middle crossbar between the chambers, it will also have to be removed, having first disconnected all communications passing through it. Bottom hinge often experiences the greatest load and may be dirty or rusty, which makes it difficult to unscrew the bolts.
⚠️ Attention: Doors refrigerators, especially two-chamber ones, have significant weight; never attempt to remove them without securing them securely to avoid injury to your feet or damage to the flooring.
When working with hinges, pay attention to the presence of shims or spacers that may be installed by the manufacturer to compensate for unevenness. These elements must not be lost; they must be saved and installed in the appropriate places when installing on the new side. If the bolts are stuck, you can use a penetrating lubricant (for example, WD-40), but this must be done carefully so that the chemicals do not get on the rubber seal.
In models with a display on the door, the question often arises of what to do with the wires. Typically the cable runs inside the door and exits near the top hinge through a special connector. This connector must be carefully disconnected; sometimes you need to press the latch. Do not pull the wires if they do not disconnect - you may not have fully pressed the connector latch.
☑️ Removing the hinges
Reversing the doors to the opposite side side
After successful dismantling of all elements, the stage of installing the doors on the new side begins, which requires attention to detail and the symmetry of the fastenings. The hinges that were removed from the left side should now be installed on the right-hand housing holes, and the previously used left-hand holes are covered with plugs. It is important not to confuse the upper and lower hinges, as they often have different designs and angles of inclination.
It is better to start installation from the lower hinge, as it serves as the basis for leveling the entire structure. Insert the bottom hinge pin into the corresponding hole in the body and tighten the bolts, but do not tighten them all the way yet to allow for adjustment. Then carefully place the door on the pin and align the holes in the top hinge with the holes on the body, making sure that the door does not warp.
If the refrigerator model requires rearranging the handle, install it now using the prepared holes on the opposite side. Make sure that the handle fits tightly and does not wobble, as this is the main element that is subject to mechanical stress during operation. In some cases, it may be necessary to change the opening direction of the latch mechanism inside the door itself, which requires removing the inner panel.
What to do if the holes do not match?
If the holes do not match, check whether you have mixed up the left and right hinges, and also make sure that the model of your refrigerator generally supports overhang. In rare cases, the use of adapter bushings included in the kit is required.
When tightening the bolts, maintain uniform force so as not to create stress in the metal, which in the future can lead to deformation. Use a torque wrench if possible, or simply finger-tighten the bolts as far as they will go, then lightly tighten them with the wrench. The main thing is to avoid overtightening, which can break the threads in the aluminum body or the hinge itself.
Adjusting gaps and tightness
After installing the doors on a new side, the need to adjust them will inevitably arise, since ideal geometry is rare. The main parameters for setting are the uniformity of the gaps around the perimeter of the door and the tightness of the fit seal to the body. If the door is skewed, one of the corners may not fit, which will lead to loss of cold and the formation of ice.
Adjustment is usually carried out using screws located on the bottom hinge, or by placing adjusting washers. By turning the adjusting screws clockwise or counterclockwise, you can move the door up, down, left or right. The process requires patience: make half a turn of the screw - check the result, and so on until the ideal position is achieved.
| Problem | Possible cause | Remedy method |
|---|---|---|
| The door does not fit underneath | The geometry is broken or the lower hinge is weakened | Tighten the bolts of the lower hinge or add a washer |
| The gap is larger at the top | The upper hinge is turned upside down or the body is skewed | Check the installation top hinge, adjust the legs |
| The door opens itself | The refrigerator is tilted back | Unscrew the front adjustable supports (legs) |
| A creaking is heard | Friction of metal on metal in the hinges | Lubricate the hinges with graphite grease or lithol |
Particular attention should be paid to installing the adjustable supports (legs) of the refrigerator. To properly close the door under its own weight, the front of the refrigerator should be slightly higher than the back. This is ensured by twisting the front legs, which creates the necessary slope back. If this is not done, the door may not slam or open from the slightest draft.
Features of models with a display and the No Frost system
Owners of modern refrigerators with a display on the door or a complex system No Frost face additional difficulties when re-hanging. The main problem is the routing of the wires that go from the body to the control panel located on the door. These cables have a limited length and margin, so they cannot be stretched too much or bent at an acute angle.
When moving the door, you must carefully disconnect the connectors, transfer them to the other side through special channels in the housing and connect them again. In some models LG or Samsung to do this, you have to remove the top cover of the refrigerator completely to gain access to the internal wiring. An error in the connection may lead to inoperability of the display or control system.
⚠️ Attention: When working with electronics, make sure that the refrigerator is unplugged for at least 10-15 minutes so that the residual voltage in the capacitors of the control board completely disappears.
It is also worth considering that in the systems No Frost Cold air ducts can pass through the door (to cool the top shelf or door drawers). When re-hanging, it is important not to damage the insulation of these channels and to ensure that the dampers operate correctly. If you hear an air whistle after assembly, it means that the seal is broken or the damper is jammed.
If the model is equipped with a freshness zone or other complex modules in the door, make sure that when changing the opening side, these elements will not rest against the shelves or walls of the case when fully opened. Sometimes it is necessary to rearrange the internal shelves and drawers to adapt to the new direction of opening the door.
Common mistakes and ways to eliminate them
Even when following the instructions, beginners often make mistakes that can negate all efforts. One of the most common problems is lost or mixed-up fasteners, especially when the bolts look the same but have different thread lengths. Screwing a long bolt into a short hole can lead to damage to the inner wall of the refrigerator or the bolt coming out from the back.
Another common mistake is ignoring the condition of the seal. When dismantling and reinstalling, the rubber profile may move or jump out of the groove. If you notice that after installation the door closes but is not airtight, check that the fit is even seal along the entire perimeter. You can straighten it with your finger or warm it with a hairdryer to restore elasticity.
- ❌ Error: Tightening the bolts without first trying on the door. Solution: Always just insert the bolts first, check the operation of the door, and only then tighten.
- ❌ Error: Ignoring the floor level. Solution: Use a building level to check the horizontal and vertical installation of the housing.
- ❌ Error: Using excessive force when unscrewing. Solution: Use penetrating lubricant and endurance rather than brute force to avoid stripping edges.
If after all the manipulations the door still closes with difficulty or leaves gaps, perhaps the problem is not in the hinges, but in the body itself (for example, the refrigerator is affected by time or temperature). In such cases, professional straightening or replacement of deformed elements may be required.
Is it possible to rehang a door if it is glass?
Glass doors are extremely difficult to rehang and often impossible without the risk of breaking the glass. A special suction tool and the help of at least two people are required.
Is it possible to hang the door on a refrigerator that is already 10 years old?
Yes, this is possible if the model initially included such a function. However, old hinges may be very dirty or rusty, requiring careful cleaning and lubrication. Also, the rubber of the seal could have lost its elasticity over 10 years, and it is better to replace it when okazji.
What to do if, after rehanging, there is an extra wire left?
The excess wire cannot simply be cut off. It must be carefully placed in the free space inside the case or door, secured with electrical tape or a tie so that it does not get caught in moving mechanisms. Make sure it is not pinched.
Do you need to wait after turning on the refrigerator after moving it?
Yes, after transporting and tilting the refrigerator (which often happens when working with doors), it is recommended to let it stand unplugged for 2-4 hours. This is necessary to allow oil to drain into the compressor to avoid water hammer during the first start.
Why did the door open too easily?
This may be due to the fact that the angle of inclination of the housing was not observed during installation. The front legs should be twisted further to create a backward tilt. Also check that the hinges are not overtightened, blocking the operation of the closer (if there is one).