Changing the kitchen layout or moving to a new house often dictates its own conditions for the arrangement of household appliances. A refrigerator Liebherr, famous for its German quality and reliability, may require changing the door opening side to fit into the updated interior. This process, known as re-hanging, is a standard procedure for most models of the brand and does not require calling a technician if you act carefully and consistently.
Owners are often faced with the need to move the unit when the refrigerator is purchased used or simply changes its location. Modern models Liebherr are designed with this possibility in mind, providing the user with all the necessary tools and design solutions to complete the task independently. It is only important to prepare the workplace in advance and study the features of your specific modification, since the design of the hinges may differ slightly.
Before starting any manipulations, you must make sure that the unit is disconnected from the power supply, and all shelves and drawers have been removed to lighten the weight of the structure. Careless handling of fasteners or an attempt to carry out work alone with heavy models Side-by-Side can lead to damage to the facade or injury. In this article we will analyze the stages of work in detail, paying attention to the nuances that are often overlooked.
Preparation of the workplace and the necessary tools
The quality of hanging the door directly depends on the preparation. You will need a flat, soft surface that you can safely rest the removed door on without scratching it or damaging the seal. A blanket spread on the floor or several layers of thick cardboard are ideal, which will save the enamel from chipping in case of accidental contact with a hard floor.
As for tools, the basic set usually includes a Phillips screwdriver, a wrench (often a size of 10 or 13 mm is required) and hexagons. Some models Liebherr are equipped with a special mounting key, which comes in the box along with the device - it is better to keep it, as it fits perfectly with specific hinge bolts. It would also be a good idea to have a spatula or flat-head screwdriver on hand to carefully remove the decorative plugs.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, be sure to unplug the refrigerator and let the compressor cool down if it has just been running. This will protect you from electric shock and avoid damage to the cooling system if the case is accidentally skewed.
Particular attention should be paid to lighting the work area. Poor light can cause you to lose small screws or misidentify the mounting type. Models with an electronic display on the door may require disconnecting cables, so good light is critical for working with delicate contacts.
☑️ Hanging Tools
Removing the top hinge and removing the door
The process always starts from the top of the structure, since it is the top hinge that holds the main load of the weight of the door leaf. First you need to remove the decorative plug that hides the mounting bolts. Depending on the model Liebherr, it can be removed with a simple hand force or require careful prying with a flat tool.
After gaining access to the fasteners, loosen, but do not completely unscrew the top hinge bolts. At this stage, you will need an assistant to hold the door so that it does not fall and break the threads from the lower fasteners. If you are working alone, make sure the door is securely locked or supported before you completely remove the fasteners.
Next, completely unscrew the bolts and remove the top hinge. The door can now be carefully lifted and removed from the lower axis. This is the most difficult stage, especially for models with the NoFrostsystem, where the door can be massive. Sudden movements are unacceptable, as you can damage the sealing rubber or deform the metal.
The door must be removed immediately Place on a prepared soft surface with the outer side down. This will free your hands for further manipulations with the refrigerator body and prevent accidental damage to the facade. Do not place the door on its end - this may lead to bending of the geometry of the leaf.
Working with the lower hinge and plinth
After removing the door, attention turns to the lower part of the refrigerator. There is often a base grille or decorative panel located here, which also needs to be dismantled. In most cases, it is held in place by clips or two screws hidden under the leading edge. Carefully remove this element to gain access to the lower support loop.
The lower loop often has a complex design with a stop. You will need to remove the locking screw or pin that secures the rotation axis. Some models use a hex wrench for this, while others use a regular open-end wrench. Be careful not to lose small washers or bushings that may fall out during disassembly. Liebherr often has a complex structure with a stop. You will need to remove the locking screw or pin that secures the rotation axis. Some models use a hex wrench for this, while others use a regular open-end wrench. Be careful not to lose any small washers or bushings that may fall out during disassembly.
An important point is to dismantle the mating part of the hinge, which is attached to the refrigerator body itself. After removing it, a bushing or threaded connection will remain in the hole, which will need to be moved to the opposite side. It is important here not to confuse the left and right sides, and also to preserve all the original gaskets.
Nuances of the lower hinge
In some Liebherr models, the lower hinge is integrated with the closer mechanism. When moving, make sure that the spring mechanism has not lost tension and will fit correctly in its new location. If you hear a strong crunch when turning, check for the presence of lubricant.
Don't forget to check the condition of the seal at the bottom of the doorway. While access is open, you can clean the grooves from dust and dirt that may have accumulated there during operation. The cleanliness of the contact surfaces guarantees a tight fit of the door after reassembly.
Rearranging handles and fittings
The most labor-intensive stage, depending on the type of handle of your model. If Liebherr has a built-in handle (cutout in the body), then this step can be skipped. However, if the handle is overhead and fastened with screws, it must be dismantled and moved to the opposite edge of the door.
To remove the handle, it is often necessary to remove the decorative trims that hide the fasteners. The screws may be different lengths, so it is recommended to lay them out in the order they were removed or take pictures of each step. When installing in a new location, make sure that the holes match and that the handle itself fits tightly, without any play.
In models with vertical handles spanning the entire height of the door, the process may require removing the top and bottom profile plugs. It is important here not to damage the plastic during dismantling. If the handle is metal and heavy, moving it may require significant effort for centering.
After rearranging, check the reliability of the fastening. The handle should not wobble, since it bears the main load when opening. If the holes on the new side do not coincide with the factory ones (in rare cases of customization), additional holes cannot be used - this will break the seal of the chamber.
Installing the door on the new side
Now that all the preparatory steps have been completed, you can begin installing the door on the new side. First, install the bottom support hinge into the hole provided for it on the housing. Secure it with the bolts, but do not tighten them all the way yet, leaving a small gap for later adjustment.
Ask an assistant to install the door on the lower axis, holding it in a vertical position. Align the door so that it is level with the frame. Now you can begin installing the top hinge. Insert the bolts and tighten them, making sure that the threads enter easily and without distortions.
Tightening the bolts should be done crosswise, gradually increasing the force. This will ensure even distribution of the load and avoid skewing of the door leaf. After final tightening, check whether the door rotates freely and there is no friction against the body.
| Element | Action | Tool | Nuance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Upper hinge | Attachment to the body | Phillips screwdriver | Do not tighten all the way immediately |
| Bottom hinge | Installing the axle | Wrench | Check the bushing |
| Door | Hitch | Assistant | Keep an eye on the seal |
| Handle | Rearrangement | Hexagon | Keep the order of the screws |
Adjusting gaps and checking tightness
After installing the door, it is critical to set the gaps correctly. If the door does not fit tightly, warm air will enter the chamber, which will cause the compressor Liebherr to work with overload. Adjustment is usually carried out by rotating the set screws on the hinges or by placing adjusting washers.
Check that the seal fits evenly around the entire perimeter. To do this, you can use a simple test with a sheet of paper: hold the sheet with a door and try to pull it out. If the paper is pulled out too easily or, conversely, with great difficulty, the door position needs to be adjusted. The gap between the door and the body should be the same at the top and bottom.
⚠️ Attention: If after adjustment the door still does not fit tightly, check the seal itself for creases or dirt. Sometimes the problem is not in the hinges, but in deformed rubber, which needs to be straightened with a hairdryer or replaced.
In models with a display on the door, do not forget to connect the cables. The wires must be laid so as not to be pinched when opening and closing. After connecting, check the operation of the indication and control buttons.
Frequent errors and troubleshooting
When re-hanging doors themselves, users often make mistakes that can negate all the work. One of the most common is the loss or confusion of screws of different lengths. Driving a long screw into a short hole can puncture the housing or damage the internal insulation.
Another mistake is ignoring the floor level. If the refrigerator is not level, the door may open on its own or, conversely, not close completely. Before starting work, always use a building level and adjust the support legs Liebherr. They also often forget to remove the transport locks if they have been reinstalled.
If a squeak appears after rehanging, lubricate the rubbing parts of the hinges with food-grade grease or a special composition for refrigerators. The use of technical oil is unacceptable, as vapors can enter the food storage chamber.
What to do if the door is sagging?
If after a week of operation the door sag and no longer closes, repeat the procedure for adjusting the top hinge. The metal might have “sat down” a little under the load, and the bolts will need to be retightened.
Do I need to call a technician to rehang the Liebherr door?
In most cases, calling a technician is not required. The design of refrigerators Liebherr allows you to perform this procedure yourself in 30-40 minutes. However, if you have a model Side-by-Side or a French door, or you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to contact an authorized service so as not to damage expensive elements.
Is it possible to rehang the door without removing it completely?
Theoretically, some craftsmen are trying to do this, but for Liebherr this is highly not recommended. Complete removal of the door ensures the safety of the mechanism and the integrity of the seal. Attempts to turn the hinge while hanging can lead to thread breakage or breakage of plastic fastening elements.
Will the warranty remain valid after re-hanging the door?
Yes, re-hanging the door yourself does not void the warranty on the refrigerator Liebherras this is provided for in the manufacturer's instructions. The warranty is lost only if during the work you damage the unit (for example, you break a circuit or break a hinge). Keep all removed parts.
Why does the Liebherr refrigerator door open by itself?
Most often this is due to the body tilting backwards. The refrigerator should be positioned with a slight slope to the rear so that gravity helps the door close. If the floor is level, unscrew the front leveling feet to raise the front of the unit 1-2 cm.