Remodeling the kitchen or simply changing the interior often dictates new operating conditions for household appliances. The situation when the opening refrigerator door begins to interfere with free passage or blocks access to the work area occurs everywhere. Fortunately, most modern models of household appliances, from budget Indesit to premium LG, provide the ability to change the opening side. This design solution allows you to adapt the unit to a specific space without compromising functionality.
The process of hanging a door is a technically simple operation, but it requires attention to detail. You do not have to call a specialist, since manufacturers specifically develop the design so that the user can perform this procedure independently, using a minimum set of tools. The main thing here is not to rush, prepare the workplace correctly and strictly follow the algorithm of actions specific to your type of refrigeration equipment.
It is important to understand that there are no universal instructions for all models. The design of the hinges, the location of the fasteners, and even the set of necessary tools can vary significantly depending on the brand and series of the device. In some cases, it will be necessary to rearrange the internal plugs, in others - a complete replacement of the fittings. Below we will analyze in detail all the stages of preparation, dismantling and assembly so that you can complete the job efficiently.
Necessary tools and preparation of the workplace
Before starting the active phase of work, you need to make sure that you have all the required tools at hand. Lack of the required screwdriver or wrench in the middle of the process can lead to damage to fasteners or stripped threads. Usually, a standard set of household tools that any man has is sufficient for the job.
You will definitely need a flat-blade screwdriver to remove decorative panels and plugs. You will also need a Phillips screwdriver (most often size PH2 or PH3) to unscrew the main bolts. In some models, especially built-in or heavy two-chamber units, a wrench or socket head of 8 mm may be required. A set of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) is the main tool for dismantling. 8 mm or 10 mm.
- 🛠️ A set of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) is the main tool for dismantling.
- 🔧 Wrench or socket head - for working with hinge bolts.
- 🧤 Work gloves - to protect hands from sharp metal edges.
- 🧹 Clean rags - for wiping parts and cleaning dust.
- 👥 Assistant - necessary for holding heavy doors during dismantling.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply! This is critical for your safety, as you will be working in close proximity to electrical components and wiring.
Particular attention should be paid to organizing your workspace. Clear the area in front of and on the sides of the refrigerator to allow easy access from all sides. Remove any mats that may interfere with stability and provide a flat surface where removed parts can be temporarily placed. If your model has a freezer compartment No Frost, make sure that you do not damage the delicate sensors when removing the panels.
☑️ Preparing for rehanging
Dismantling the upper and lower doors: step-by-step algorithm
Removal process doors always starts with freeing up the internal space. Remove all shelves, containers and food. This will not only make the design easier, but will also protect the contents from falling and breaking during manipulation. An empty door is much easier and safer to remove.
The first step is to remove the top cover of the refrigerator, if it is structurally provided. It is usually secured with latches or a few screws at the back. After this, open access to the top hinge. Carefully unscrew the mounting bolts, but do not remove them completely until the door is secured by an assistant. The refrigerator door weighs a lot, and falling an unsecured element can cause injury or damage to the floor.
After removing the top hinge, carefully lift the door and remove it from the bottom axis. Place it in a safe place, preferably resting it against the wall on a soft base. Now let's move on to the bottom. Here the algorithm is similar: remove the decorative panel, unscrew the bottom hinge. If you have a two-chamber refrigerator, then the middle part (partition) may also require dismantling or turning over.
What to do if the bolts are rusty?
If the fasteners do not give in, do not use excessive force so as not to tear off the cap. Treat the threads with a penetrating lubricant (eg WD-40) and leave for 10-15 minutes. After this, try to carefully remove the bolt with a wrench with a large lever arm.
When working with the bottom door, it is often difficult to access the fasteners due to the plinth grille or drawers. In such cases, it may be necessary to temporarily remove the bottom freezer drawers. Proceed carefully so as not to damage the plastic guides, which become fragile in the cold.
Rearranging the fittings and strike plates
The most important step is reinstalling the fittings on the opposite side. On the free side of the case you will find holes closed with plastic plugs. They need to be removed. To do this, carefully pry them off with a flat-head screwdriver. There will be holes on the old side where the hinges were, which now need to be closed with these plugs.
Pay attention to the door handle. In some models it is symmetrical and does not require changes. However, if the handle is asymmetrical or recessed, it may need to be flipped or the fasteners rearranged. Often this requires removing the inner door panel to gain access to the screws securing the handle from the inside.
| Element | Action when changing sides | Features |
|---|---|---|
| Top hinge | Transfer to the opposite side | Requires precise positioning |
| Bottom loop | Transfer + replacement of the axis (pin) | The axis often has a specific shape |
| Plugs | Change places with hinges | It is important not to lose small parts |
| Door stop | Rearrangement to a new slot | Prevents spontaneous opening |
Do not forget about the magnetic stopper (closer), if it is provided for in the design. It is located in the lower part of the body and prevents the door from opening spontaneously if it is skewed. It also needs to be moved to the new side by unscrewing it from the old hole and screwing it into the new one. Often the same tool is used for this as for hinges.
Features of hanging doors in two-chamber models
In two-chamber models In refrigerators, the process is complicated by the presence of a middle partition and, often, a separate sealing system between the chambers. Here it is critical to correctly reinstall the central hinge, which holds the lower door and serves as support for the upper one. An error at this stage will result in the doors being warped and the seal will not fit tightly.
In models with the system No Frost electrical wires that power the fan or upper chamber sensors may pass through the hinges. When dismantling the upper door, proceed with extreme caution. Wire cable Do not pull or bend at an acute angle. Often the wires are hidden inside the hinge channel, and they must be carefully released or, conversely, pulled through a new hole.
- 🔌 Disconnect the wire connectors before completely removing the door if they are in the way.
- 🧵 Make sure that the wires are not sandwiched between the metal parts of the loop.
- 🔩 Make sure that the middle loop is installed strictly horizontally.
- ❄️ Check the integrity of the seal between the chambers after installation.
If your refrigerator has a display on the door, the task becomes even more difficult. In this case, the wires go to the control panel and their length may be limited. Sometimes, to rehang such a door, it is necessary to extend the wires or resolder the contacts, which is best left to a specialist. However, in many modern models the cables have sufficient length for transfer.
⚠️ Attention: When working with wiring inside the loops, make sure that the insulation of the wires is not damaged by sharp metal edges. Any short circuit can damage the electronic control module of the refrigerator.
Adjustment position and tightness check
After all the elements have been rearranged and the doors have been installed in their new places, the adjustment stage begins. The door should close tightly, without distortions or gaps. If you notice that the door does not fit tightly or, conversely, is too tight, you need to adjust the installation height using the adjusting screws on the hinges.
Checking the tightness is a mandatory step. Take a piece of paper or a banknote and clamp it around the perimeter of the door. The paper should be pulled out with force, but not torn. If in some place the paper falls out freely or is removed too easily, it means that the pressure there is broken. In this case, slightly loosen the screws securing the hinge and change the tilt of the door, then tighten the fasteners again.
It is also worth paying attention to the operation of the magnetic lock. The door should close on its own if you open it about 30-40 degrees. If the door does not “reach” all the way and remains ajar, check whether the stopper is installed correctly at the bottom and whether something is preventing the free movement of the mechanism. It may be necessary to adjust the tilt of the entire refrigerator using the front support legs.
Common mistakes and ways to eliminate them
Even following the instructions, beginners often make mistakes that later affect the operation of the equipment. One of the most common is mixing up the sides of the hinges. Before tightening the bolts tightly, make sure that the hinge fits exactly as it was in the original, just on the mirror side. Incorrect installation can cause the door axis to protrude inward, preventing it from opening.
Another common problem is lost or mixed up plugs. If you lose the plastic plug, do not leave the hole open. Dust and moisture will get into it, which can cause corrosion of the housing. You can temporarily seal the hole with electrical tape that matches the color of the body, but it is better to order a set of plugs from the manufacturer.
Sometimes after rehanging the door begins to creak. This means that the rubbing surfaces of the hinges are not lubricated or the lubricant has dried out. Use special silicone grease or lithium grease for household appliances. Do not use vegetable oil or grease, as they thicken or oxidize over time, creating a sticky mass that collects dirt.
What to do if, after rearranging, the door does not close tightly?
Check whether anything inside the refrigerator (food, shelves) is preventing it from closing tightly. Make sure the rubber seal is clean and not deformed. If there are no mechanical obstacles, try warming the seal with a hairdryer (without overheating!) or adjusting the tilt of the door with adjusting bolts.
Is it possible to rearrange the door if the refrigerator is built into the kitchen unit?
This is more difficult, but possible. You will need to pull the refrigerator completely out of the niche to gain access to the sides. Make sure your kitchen cabinet doors also allow you to open the refrigerator from the new side. Often, built-in models require special long bolts to attach decorative furniture fronts.
Do I need to wait after turning on if I kept the door open for a long time?
If you held the door open for a long time while operating, the compressor could overheat, trying to compensate for the loss of cold. After completing the work and connecting it to the network, it is advisable to let the refrigerator stand for 2-3 hours without loading food, so that the temperature conditions stabilize.
Does reversing the door affect the warranty?
Rearranging the door yourself, as a rule, is not a warranty case unless parts were damaged in the process. However, if you strip a thread or break a hinge, there will be a cost to repair it. Keep all removed parts in case you return the refrigerator to the store for other reasons.