Sometimes the standard layout of the kitchen or the features of the room dictate their conditions, making the usual opening of the refrigerator door inconvenient. In such situations, the only right decision is reversing the door to the opposite side. This procedure allows you to adapt the equipment to the interior without sacrificing ergonomics and freedom of movement around the room.
The process of changing the opening side is not overly complicated, but it requires care, accuracy and a basic set of tools. Incorrect actions can lead to damage accessories, failure of the seal, or even chips on the housing. Therefore, before starting work, you need to study the design features of your model.
In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions for various types of refrigerators, consider the nuances of working with systems No Frost and give recommendations for final adjustment. Following the instructions will help you complete the job efficiently and safely.
Preparation for work and necessary tools
The first thing you need to do before starting any manipulations is to free up the space around the refrigerator. You will need free access to the unit from all sides, so move the equipment away from the wall at least 50-70 cm. Make sure that the floor is level and nothing is lying under your feet to eliminate the risk of tools or parts falling.
Next, you should prepare the tools. The set may vary slightly depending on the brand (Indesit, Bosch, Samsung, LG), but the basic set is usually the same. You will need:
- 🔧 A set of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) - for dismantling handles and panels.
- 🔩 Wrenches or sockets (most often 8, 10 mm) - for removing hinges.
- 🧤 Construction gloves - to protect your hands from sharp metal edges.
- 📦 Container for fasteners - so as not to lose small screws and plugs.
It is also extremely important to secure the equipment itself. Be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical outlet by removing the plug from the outlet. This is a critical step as you may accidentally touch wiring or sensors while working. If the model has a system No Frost, then there may be electrical components inside that fit the door.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, be sure to defrost the refrigerator and remove all shelves and drawers. The door when empty is much lighter, which reduces the load on the hinges and minimizes the risk of dropping the unit.
☑️ Checklist for preparing for rehanging
Design features: when rehanging is impossible
Before starting disassembly, you need to make sure that your The model generally supports this option. Not all modern refrigerators have a symmetrical body. Some budget or specific models have holes for hinges only on one side, and on the back side of the case there is simply smooth metal without technological recesses.
Particular attention should be paid to models with a display on the door or a built-in system Smart Door. If the control panel is located on the door leaf and not on the body, then moving it will require rearranging the wiring harness and reconfiguring the electronics. In some cases, the length of the train may not be sufficient to transfer to the other side.
There are also models with asymmetrical design of handles or decorative elements. If the handle has a unique shape, suitable only for the left or right side, and is not symmetrical vertically, then it will not be possible to rehang the door without purchasing new components.
How to check the possibility of reversing?
Look in the technical data sheet (instructions) for the “Installation” or “Installation” section. There should be a diagram showing the holes for the hinges on both sides. If there are no threaded holes or bushings on the back side, re-hanging is impossible without drilling, which is strictly not recommended.
Step-by-step instructions: dismantling the top part
The process starts from the top door if you have a two-chamber refrigerator. First, remove the decorative cover or panel that hides the top hinge mounts. It is usually held in place by latches or a single screw. Carefully pry it off with a flat-head screwdriver, being careful not to scratch the coating.
After gaining access to the hinge, unscrew the mounting bolts. Here you will need an assistant: while one person holds the door, the second unscrews the bolts. If the door is heavy, it is better to prop it up or place it on a stable surface immediately after removal, so as not to damage the lower hinge.
Next, you need to remove the intermediate hinge (spacer between the chambers). The upper loop will be installed in its place later. Remove any plastic plugs from the vacated holes and prepare them for installation on the opposite side. Pay attention to washers and the bushings - they will need to be rearranged in mirror images.
It is important not to confuse the order of the parts during assembly. Some models have specific stops or limiters that must be installed in a certain position. Keep all removed elements in one place.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use excessive force when unscrewing rusted bolts. Treat them with a penetrating lubricant (for example, WD-40) and wait 10-15 minutes to avoid stripping the threads.
Removing and moving the lower door
The lower chamber is usually more massive than the upper one, so work here requires more care. After removing the top part and dismantling the middle hinge, the bottom door remains hanging on the lower canopy. Lift the door up to remove it from the axis, and carefully set it aside on a soft surface (for example, on a spread blanket).
Now you need to move the lower support hinge to the opposite side of the body. Unscrew the fastening bolts, remove the hinge and install it in the prepared holes on the other side. Tighten the bolts tightly, but without fanaticism, so as not to break the threads in the refrigerator body.
At the same time, work on the door itself. You need to rearrange the handle on it (if it is asymmetrical) and rehang the counter part of the loop. Often this requires removing the inner door trim or accessing the fasteners through technological holes. In some models, the handle is simply rearranged diagonally.
Install the lower door into place by sliding it onto the axis of the lower hinge. Make sure it sits straight and tight. Now you can begin installing the middle hinge, which will connect both chambers.
Nuances for models with the No Frost system
Refrigerators with a system No Frost have a more complex door design, since they have built-in air ducts and defrost heaters. When rehanging such doors, it is critical not to damage the insulation of the wires passing through the hinge assembly.
In most models, the wires are hidden inside the channel in the hinge body. When moving the door, you must carefully disconnect the connectors (chips) and move them to the other side. Sometimes it is necessary to remove the plastic casing covering the wiring.
The table below shows the main differences in working with different types of systems:
| Characteristics | Regular system (Static) | No Frost system |
|---|---|---|
| Presence of wires | Absent or minimum | Required (sensors, heating elements) |
| Complexity of work | Low | Average / High |
| Risk of damage | Minimal | High (insulation, contacts) |
| Operating time | 30-40 minutes | 60-90 minutes |
After connecting all connectors, be sure to check their reliability. Poor contact can lead to defrost system failure or incorrect operation of the temperature sensor. Assemble all the protective covers and make sure that the wires are not pinched by metal structures.
Adjustment and leak testing
After all the hinges are installed and the doors are put in place, it is necessary to carry out the adjustment. The doors should open smoothly, without jamming, and fit tightly to the body around the entire perimeter. If you notice a misalignment, loosen the hinge mounting bolts (but do not remove them completely) and align the position of the door.
Checking the tightness is the final and most important step. Take a piece of paper or a banknote, clamp it with the refrigerator door and try to pull it out. The paper should be pulled out with noticeable force. Walk this way around the entire perimeter of the seal.
If in some place the paper falls out freely or, conversely, gets stuck tightly, it means that the height of the hinge or the angle of the door needs to be adjusted. In some models, to adjust the height, special screws are provided at the end of the hinge, which can be turned with a key without removing the door.
Give it to the refrigerator stand in the off state for at least 2-3 hours before turning it on, especially if you actively moved the unit. This is necessary to stabilize the refrigerant in the system.
Is it possible to hang the door on a refrigerator with a display?
Yes, it is possible, but it is more difficult. You will need to carefully disconnect the cable cable going to the display and route it through the new channels in the case. It is important to make sure that the wire is long enough. If the display is touch-sensitive and integrated into the glass, the risk of damage during disassembly increases.
What to do if, after rehanging, the door does not close completely?
Most likely, the problem is in adjusting the height of the hinges or in the skew of the refrigerator body. Check the legs of the refrigerator - they should be unscrewed so that the body is slightly tilted back. Also check if anything inside (shelf, product) is preventing it from closing tightly.
Do you need to call a specialist to rehang the door?
If you have basic skills in working with tools and the model of the refrigerator is standard, you can do it yourself. However, for expensive Side-by-Side models or refrigerators with complex electronics, it is better to contact a service center so as not to lose the warranty.
What to do with the handles if the holes do not match?
In 99% of cases, the holes on the doors of refrigerators are symmetrical. If the handle is attached with screws, they should match on the other side. If the handle is glued in or has a unique asymmetrical shape, you may need to buy a new handle or use decorative plugs for the old holes.