Reversing the refrigerator door Electrolux is a standard procedure provided by the manufacturer for ease of operation of equipment in small-sized kitchens. If you have just purchased a unit or are about to rearrange it, changing the opening side of the doors will allow you to ergonomically fit the device into the interior. Modern models of the Swedish brand are designed so that the user can independently perform this manipulation, having a minimum set of tools and basic skills in handling equipment.
However, the process is not without nuances, ignoring which can lead to damage sealing rubber or violation of the geometry of the case. Before starting work, it is important to understand that the design of the refrigerator and freezer compartments may differ. While the lower door often has symmetrical hinges, the upper one may hide controls or air supply channels that require special care when dismantling.
In this guide we will examine in detail the re-hinging steps for different series Electrolux, paying attention to the specifics of models with system NoFrost. You will learn how to properly prepare a workplace, what tools you will need and what points you should pay special attention to so that after assembly the refrigerator closes hermetically and operates silently. Carefully following the algorithm of actions is the key to a successful result without calling a specialist.
Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools
The first thing you need to do before starting any manipulations with the body of household appliances is to provide a safe space for work. Rehanging the doors requires access to the entire perimeter of the refrigerator, so it is best to move the unit away from the wall at a distance of at least one meter. Make sure that the floor is level and clean so that accidentally dropped parts will not be scratched or lost in the carpet pile.
A critical step is to completely turn off the power supply. Unplug the cord from the outlet and, if possible, wrap it around the body or secure it so that it does not interfere with passage. This is not only a safety requirement, but also a way to prevent accidental activation of the compressor or electronics while working with electrical componentselectrical components, if any are located on the doors
⚠️ Attention: Never start disassembling while the refrigerator is plugged in. Even if you are only working with mechanical hinges, the risk of touching wiring or sensors is too great.
To complete the task, you will need a standard DIY kit. In most cases, it is enough to have on hand:
- 🔧 A set of screwdrivers (phillips and flathead) for removing plugs and screws.
- 🔩 Wrenches or heads (most often sizes 8, 10 mm) for hinge bolts.
- 🧤 Construction gloves to protect hands from sharp metal edges.
- 🧼 Soft rags for wiping mounting points from dust.
It is worth mentioning separately the need to empty the doors from the contents. Shelves, water bottles and heavy products significantly weigh down the structure, increasing the risk of the sash being dropped or damaged. Prepare a table or cabinet in advance, covered with soft material, where you will put the dismantled shelves and drawers. This will help maintain order and avoid chaos in the kitchen. guides. Prepare a table or cabinet in advance, covered with soft material, where you will put the dismantled shelves and drawers. This will help maintain order and avoid chaos in the kitchen.
Removing the top door of the refrigerator
The process always starts from the top of the unit, since it is the most movable and often has a complex design of fasteners. First, remove the top decorative panel, if your model has one Electrolux. It is usually held on by latches or hidden screws that need to be carefully unscrewed. Under the panel you will find an upper hinge that secures the door.
Before unscrewing the hinge bolts, be sure to ask someone to hold the door, or use special stops. The weight of the sash can reach several kilograms, and it can fall sharply, damaging floor covering or the master’s fingers. Carefully unscrew the mounting bolts counterclockwise using the appropriate wrench.
☑️ Removing the top sash
After removing the top hinge, carefully lift the door and remove it from the middle hinge pin (if there is one) or simply set it aside if the design allows. Inspect the rotation axis: there should be no burrs or rust on it. If you notice dirt, wipe the mechanism with a rag. Older models may require lubrication graphite grease of the rubbing parts, although modern plain bearings usually do not need this.
It is important to note that on some models with a display or control panel on the door, you must first disconnect wire cable. Do this very carefully, pulling on the connector and not on the wires themselves. Remember or photograph the position of the contacts so as not to confuse the polarity during assembly.
Working with the bottom door of the freezer
The bottom door in refrigerators Electrolux is often attached through an intermediate frame or has its own own bottom loops. If you change the opening side, you will most likely have to change the middle crossbar that separates the refrigerator and freezer compartments. To do this, you will need to remove the retaining screws holding the frame in place and move it to the opposite side.
Remove the bottom panel of the refrigerator (plinth) to gain access to the support sleeve or bottom hinge. Unscrew the fasteners and release the bottom door. The safety rule also applies here: hold the freezer chamber while unscrewing the last bolts. Inspect seal on the bottom door: when re-hanging it may move, so check its fit around the entire perimeter.
| Type of fastening | Tool | Nuance dismantling |
|---|---|---|
| Top hinge | 8-10 mm wrench | Sash support required |
| Middle bar | Phillips screwdriver | You need to remove the stoppers |
| Bottom support | Socket key | Access through the baseboard |
| Door handle | Hexagon | Often hidden fasteners |
If your model provides for rearranging the handles, then this step is also performed now. Handles can be attached to screws on the inside of the door or have a hidden locking mechanism. Carefully move them to the new side, using the plug holes that were originally closed with plastic plugs on the reverse side.
What to do if the bolts are rusty?
If the hinge mounting bolts are stuck and will not unscrew, do not use excessive force so as not to strip the threads. Treat the joint with a penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40) and leave for 15-20 minutes. After this, try to carefully remove the bolt.
Rearranging fittings and plugs
The most crucial moment is moving all the fasteners to the opposite side. The refrigerator body Electrolux initially has technological holes on both sides. Where there were loops, there will now be empty slots that need to be closed with decorative plugs. These plugs usually come with a new refrigerator or are in a bag with documents.
Carefully inspect the ends of the doors. You will see threaded holes on one side and a smooth surface or plug holes on the other. Your task is to unscrew the locking screws (if any) on one side and screw them into the corresponding holes on the other. This will lock the door in the correct position relative to the new hinges.
⚠️ Attention: Do not lose the small locking screws and plastic plugs. Without them, the door may warp or look unsightly. It is better to put all the small parts in a magnetic tray or container.
Install the hinges in new places, but do not tighten them tightly yet. This will allow you to carry out accurate adjusting the gaps. Make sure all holes line up without distortion. If the holes do not line up, check that you have chosen the correct side to install a particular hinge (left/right), as they may not be symmetrical.
Installing doors on the new side
Now that all the hinges have been transferred to the new side, you can begin installing the doors. Start at the bottom door of the freezer. Slide it onto the bottom axle or pin, making sure it fits snug and level. After this, install the middle cross member (if it was removed) and secure it with bolts. Check that there are no distortions between the body and the door.
Next, move on to the top door. Carefully place it on the middle loop, lining up the holes. If you have a model with wires, now is the time to connect electrical connector. Lay the harness so that when opening and closing the door it does not stretch and does not fall into the area of movement of the hinges. Secure the top hinge with bolts, but, as mentioned earlier, only lightly.
Check the doors for free movement. They should open smoothly, without creaking or jamming. If you feel resistance, the loops may be askew or not tightened evenly. Also make sure that the magnetic seal tightly fits around the entire perimeter of the case. There should be no gaps, otherwise the refrigerator will wear out.
Position adjustment and final check
The final stage is adjustment. Even with careful installation, small distortions may occur, which can be easily eliminated. The legs of the refrigerator Electrolux usually have adjusting screws. By rotating them, you can raise or lower the front corners of the unit. This helps to align the door relative to the horizon and ensure automatic closing of the door at a small opening angle.
If the door is skewed to the left or right, loosen the hinges and slightly move the sash in the desired direction, then tighten the bolts again. Check the gaps between the door and the body: they should be the same at the top and bottom. Use a building level, applying it to the end of the door to make sure that the installation is vertical.
After mechanical adjustment, turn on the refrigerator. Let it run for 10-15 minutes and listen. There should be no extraneous sounds of friction or knocking. Check the operation of the door sensors (if there is a light or sound signal). Make sure that when you close the door, the light inside goes out.
⚠️ Attention: Specifications and location of fasteners may vary depending on the specific series and year of manufacture of the refrigerator. Always check the official instructions for your model Electroluxas the hinge design may have unique features.
In conclusion, properly hung doors will not only improve the ergonomics of your kitchen, but will also extend the life of the seals by ensuring an even fit. Regularly check the cleanliness of the hinges and, if necessary, lubricate them so that the opening mechanism remains smooth for many years.
Why does the door not close after rehanging?
Most often, the reason lies in an incorrectly installed handle or a skewed hinge. Also check if anything inside (drawers, bottles) is preventing it from closing tightly. If the problem is in the seal, try warming it with a hairdryer (gently!) or placing a weight overnight.
Do you need to call a specialist to rehang the doors?
In most cases, calling a specialist is not required. The manufacturer provides for independent re-hanging, and the instructions contain a diagram. However, if you have a Side-by-Side model with complex electronics on the doors or you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals so as not to damage expensive components.
What to do with the holes from old hinges?
All unnecessary holes on the body and doors are closed with special plastic plugs that are included in the kit. If the plugs are lost, you can order them at the service center or select universal analogues of a suitable diameter and color.
Is it possible to rehang a door if it has a display?
Yes, it is possible, but it is more difficult. You will have to carefully disconnect the display power cable, move the display itself (if the design allows) or simply move the loops, leaving the wires in the bundle. The main thing is not to damage the contacts and correctly reassemble the connectors.
Why did a gap appear at the top after rehanging?
Most likely, the top hinge is not installed completely or is skewed. Loosen the mounting bolts, lift the door or level it, and retighten the bolts. Also check if something is preventing a tight fit (for example, the edge of a shelf).