How to move the door on a refrigerator: complete instructions

Rearranging furniture in the kitchen often poses an unexpected question to owners of household appliances: how to open the refrigerator if it rests against the wall or interferes with the passage? The situation when the door swings open in the wrong direction is familiar to many who have at least once made repairs or changed the layout of a kitchen unit. Fortunately, most modern models Indesit, Atlant or Beko provide the ability to change the opening side.

This process does not require calling a specialist, but requires attentiveness and the availability of a basic set of tools. Errors during dismantling can lead to damage to the seal or loss of tightness, which is critical for the operation of the compressor. In this article we will analyze action algorithmwhich will allow you to cope with the task in 30-40 minutes, preserving the warranty and appearance of the unit.

Before taking a screwdriver, you need to free up the space around the device. You will need to remove all shelves, drawers and products to reduce the weight of the structure and allow access to the ends. Do not forget that there may be glass elements inside that can easily be broken if you move carelessly while tilting the body.

Necessary tools and workplace preparation

The success of the operation depends 80% on proper preparation. You don't need specialized wrenches, but a standard DIY kit is required. The main tool will be hexagon or a set of open-end wrenches, since the fastening of the hinges is often made specifically for them. A flat-head screwdriver is also useful for removing decorative plugs.

Particular attention should be paid to organizing the work area. The refrigerator will have to be tilted, so the floor must be clean, and it is better to place thick cardboard or a blanket under the legs. This will protect the coating from scratches and prevent the unit from sliding at the most inopportune moment.

  • 🛠️ Set of wrenches or heads (sizes 8, 10, 13 mm).
  • 🪛 Screwdrivers: Phillips and flat (for plugs).
  • 📏 Level (bubble) for checking the horizon.
  • 🧤 Work gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges.

⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply! Working with live electrical appliances is prohibited by safety regulations.

If you have a model with the system No Frost, make sure that you do not damage the air ducts that may pass through the door. In such cases, the design of the loops is more complex, and you need to act especially carefully so as not to pinch the wiring or tubes.

Removing the top and bottom panels

The first step is always removing the top cover of the refrigerator (if it is structurally provided for). This is necessary to gain access to the upper hinge fastener. Usually the cover is held on by two screws on the back or side, which can be easily unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver.

Next we move on to the door itself. You need to hold it with one hand while unscrewing the bolts of the upper fastening. It is important here not to drop the heavy sash, as it can become deformed or damage the floor covering. It is better to perform this operation together.

The lower part of the door is attached to the body through the lower hinge. After removing the top fastening and carefully removing the door from the pin, you can remove the lower assembly. Often there are hidden adjusting screws that are responsible for the tightness of the sealing rubber sealing gum.

☑️ Preparation for dismantling

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Immediately place all removed fasteners, plugs and washers in a separate container. The loss of even one small screw can lead to the door being warped, and the cold will evaporate in vain.

Rearranging hinges and fittings

The most crucial moment is moving the fasteners to the opposite side. There are symmetrical holes at the end of the door and on the body of the refrigerator, closed with plastic plugs. They need to be carefully removed and moved to the vacant places to hide the empty holes.

The hinges are installed in new slots. Please note that the pins may have different lengths or shapes. The top pin is often longer than the bottom pin, so be careful not to mix them up when installing. Tighten the bolts tightly, but without fanaticism, so as not to break the threads in the metal case.

Mounting type Location (Standard) Location (After overweight) Installation nuances
Top hinge Upper right corner Upper left corner Requires cover removal
Bottom hinge Bottom right corner Left lower corner Adjusts the gap at the floor
Door stop Bottom center (often) Moved to the new side Sometimes hidden under a plug
Handle Depends on the model Requires dismantling See. section about handles below

Some models, for example, Liebherr or Siemensmay require additional bushings or adapters that come with the refrigerator. If you lost this bag when purchasing, you may have to order original spare parts from the manufacturer.

What to do if the holes do not match?

In some budget models, the holes may be blind (without threads on the back side). In this case, you will need to carefully cut the threads with a tap or use nuts from the reverse side, if the design of the case allows this.

Features of transferring handles

With handles the situation is most difficult, since their design varies greatly. The built-in handles (cutout in the body) do not require moving. But the overlay elements often have an asymmetrical shape or hidden fasteners.

If the handle is attached to screws, access to which is blocked by a decorative overlay, it must first be removed. Sometimes this requires prying the plastic through a thin slot with a flat-head screwdriver. Proceed carefully so as not to leave marks on the glossy surface.

  • 🔹 Hidden fasteners: look for holes at the bottom or top of the handle.
  • 🔹 Adhesive connection: some models Bosch use adhesive-sealant that requires heating with a hairdryer.
  • 🔹 Asymmetry: the handle may not be suitable for the left side without replacing it with a mirror one.

If the handle is made of a single piece of plastic and does not have symmetrical mounting holes on the other side, you will have to order a new, “left” version. Installing the old handle “as is” is possible, but it will look unaesthetic.

⚠️ Attention: The plastic handles on old refrigerators become fragile. When unscrewing, try not to use excessive force so as not to break the fastening ears.

📊 What problem did you encounter when rearranging the door?
Could not remove the handle
The holes did not match
Broke plastic plug
Everything went smoothly
I gave up and called a technician

Adjusting the gaps and hanging the door

After installing the hinges in a new place, the stage of putting the door in place begins. Carefully slide the bottom loop onto the pin, then line up the top holes. At this stage, do not tighten the upper fastening bolts until the end - leave a small gap for adjustment.

Check the vertical installation of the door using a level. If the refrigerator is level, but the door is skewed, then the problem is in the height of the legs of the unit itself or in uneven tightening of the bolts. Use the adjustment screws on the front panel (usually hidden under the decorative strip at the bottom) to level the front.

Gaps between the door and the body should be the same along the entire length. If the door fits tightly on top, but there is a gap at the bottom (or vice versa), this will lead to loss of cold and the formation of ice. Achieve an even fit by slightly loosening or tightening the fasteners.

Only after making sure of the ideal geometry can you finally tighten all the bolts. Check the operation of the door stopper (if there is one) - it should fix the position of the door in the open state, preventing it from slamming shut due to a draft.

Tightness check and final tests

The final stage is checking the quality of the work performed. Visually inspect the rubber seal around the entire perimeter. It should fit snugly to the body and be free of creases and air bubbles. If you notice any looseness, try warming the elastic with a hairdryer or gently straightening it with your fingers.

There is a simple test with a sheet of paper. Cover the door with a sheet of plain paper so that part of it hangs out. Try to pull out the sheet. If it pulls out easily without resistance, the seal is broken and the hinges need to be adjusted. If the paper is clamped tightly around the entire perimeter, you did an excellent job.

Plug in the refrigerator and listen. After 10-15 minutes of compressor operation, check the internal temperature. If the door is skewed, cold air will escape, and the motor will work without interruption, trying to gain temperature.

What to do if the door begins to touch the body when opening?

This means that the hinges are skewed or not fully tightened. Loosen the fastener, adjust the position of the door and tighten again. Also check if the products on the shelves adjacent to the door are not in the way.

Is it possible to hang the door on a two-chamber refrigerator separately?

Yes, usually the doors of the upper and lower chambers are independent. However, the sequence of actions may differ: it is often recommended to first remove the lower door, then the upper one, and install it in the reverse order.

Do you need to wait after rearranging before turning it on?

If you did not tilt the refrigerator more than 40 degrees and did not shake it, there is no need to wait. If the unit was lying on its side, let the oil in the compressor drain down (2-4 hours) before starting.

Why did a creaking appear after re-hanging?

The creaking can occur due to metal-to-metal friction in the hinges or due to the door touching the body. Lubricate the hinges with lithium grease or Teflon spray and check the gaps.