A sudden stop of the compressor or a characteristic click followed by silence often indicates a failure of the starting mechanism. The refrigerator relay Stinol is a small but critical unit responsible for starting the engine and protecting it from overloads. If you notice that the engine hums, but does not start, or starts only for a second, most likely the problem lies in this component.
Independent replacement of this element is quite possible for a home craftsman, but requires strict adherence to safety precautions and an understanding of the principle of operation of the electrical circuit. Incorrect connections can cause the compressor windings to burn out, so it is important to proceed methodically. In this article we will look at how to correctly diagnose a breakdown, select an analogue and connect the relay on models Stinol 101, 102, 103, 104, 106, 107, 116, 117 and other modifications.
Before starting disassembly, make sure that the refrigerator is completely disconnected from the power supply. This fundamental ruleis, violation of which is unacceptable when working with high voltage. Further manipulations will require a minimum set of tools: a screwdriver, pliers and, preferably, a multimeter for checking contacts.
The principle of operation and types of relays in Stinol refrigerators
In brand refrigeration units Stinolas and many others use electromagnetic starting relays. Their main task is to briefly apply voltage to the starting winding of the compressor in order to spin the rotor, and then turn it off, leaving only the main winding to work. Inside the housing there is a coil through which the current of the main winding passes, and a movable core with contacts.
When the compressor starts, the current in the starting winding increases sharply, the magnetic field draws in the core, and the contacts open. If the relay is faulty, this process is disrupted: the contacts may stick, not open, or, conversely, not close at all. Models Stinol are often characterized by relays of the RAT or RTseries, which have specific markings and contact arrangements.
It is important to understand that there are also thermal protection relays, which are often combined with the starting one in the same housing or located nearby. Thermal protection monitors the temperature of the windings and opens the circuit when overheated. When replacing, the entire unit is often replaced to eliminate the risk of repeated breakdown due to wear of adjacent elements.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to repair the insides of the relay (clean the contacts, bend the springs). This is a disposable element, and after opening the sealed case, its operation becomes unstable.
Differences between relay models may be minimal in appearance, but critical in electrical characteristics. Using an unsuitable analogue will result in the compressor either not starting or burning out due to a non-switchable starting winding. Therefore, when selecting a spare part, be guided not only by the appearance, but also by the markings specified by the manufacturer.
Fault diagnosis: symptoms and testing
The first sign of a malfunction is the nature of the sound of the refrigerator. If you hear a humming sound from the motor for 3-5 seconds, followed by a loud clicking sound and silence, and then repeating the cycle a few minutes later, this is a classic "not starting" symptom. The compressor tries to start, but the trigger mechanism does not perform its function.
For accurate diagnostics, it is necessary to remove the relay from the compressor housing. It is usually mounted on three contact pins coming out of the motor and secured with a metal bracket or plastic latches. Carefully remove the retaining frame and pull the relay down. A visual inspection may reveal melted plastic, blackened contacts, or the presence of a foreign burning smell.
The most reliable way to check is to use a multimeter in dial mode. Turn the relay over so that the contact group faces up and check the current flow between the terminals. In normal condition (contacts up), the circuit should ring between the input and output to the starting winding. If you turn the relay over (simulating operation), the contacts should open.
- 🔍 Visual inspection: look for cracks on the case, traces of soot or melted plastic around the terminals.
- 🔊 Audio test: shake the relay near your ear - if you hear the sound of a detached core or contacts, the part is accurate is faulty.
- ⚡ Electrical test: the absence of a bell in a closed state or the presence of a bell in an open state indicates a defect.
If there are no visual defects, but the refrigerator does not work, an internal failure of the coil or sticking of contacts. In such cases, replacement is the only reasonable solution. You should not risk an expensive compressor to save on a small part.
Preparation for replacement and selection of an analogue
Before purchasing a new relay, carefully study the markings of the old device. On the case Stinol usually there are designations like RAT-5b, RT-12 or 35R433. The numbers on the label often indicate the current rating or type of compressor that is compatible. If it is impossible to find an exact copy, you can select an analogue using the correspondence table or electrical parameters.
Matching the actuation current is critically important. If you install a relay with a lower current, it will constantly click, preventing the motor from accelerating. If it is higher, the starting winding will remain on for too long, which will lead to its burnout. An exact match of the marking or its direct analogues is the only condition for successful repair.
To work, you will need a flat-head screwdriver to remove the compressor protective casing, and pliers to remove the fixing bracket. Also have a clean rag ready to wipe the compressor contacts from possible oxide or dust before installing a new part.
⚠️ Attention: Make sure the compressor has cooled down before starting work. During operation, the motor heats up to high temperatures, and accidental contact with hot tubes or the housing can cause burns.
Purchase relays only in specialized stores of spare parts for household appliances. Cheap analogs from the markets may not have the necessary thermal protection or have low quality contacts, which will shorten the life of the refrigerator Stinol.
Step-by-step instructions: how to connect a relay
The process of replacing a refrigerator relay Stinol is technically simple, but requires attention to the location of the contacts. First, remove the rear cover of the unit (if there is one) and get to the compressor at the bottom. Disconnect the wires going to the old relay, having first noted or photographed their location.
Remove the retaining bracket or strip that presses the relay to the compressor contacts. Carefully, without jerking, pull the old relay down. Pay attention to the orientation: the top of the relay (usually with the markings) should face up, and the connectors should match the motor pins.
Install the new relay, pushing it tightly onto the three contact pins of the compressor. Make sure it is seated all the way and does not wobble. Attach the fixing bracket. Now you need to connect the wires according to the diagram. Usually the wires are color coded, but it is better to focus on the position of the terminals.
☑️ Relay installation checklist
Connect the wires to the corresponding terminals of the new relay. If the relay has markings C (Common), S (Start), R (Run), follow them. In domestic models Stinol a simple color scheme is often used, but double-checking with a multimeter will not hurt.
After connecting all the wires, check the reliability of the connections again. The wires should not touch hot compressor tubes or moving parts (if there is a fan). Reinstall the compressor protective casing and the rear wall of the refrigerator.
Connection diagram and contact markings
Understanding the connection diagram is necessary if the wires are mixed up or the new relay has a terminal configuration different from the original. In a standard relay for Stinol usually 3 or 4 contacts are involved (including ground or additional protection pins). The main working contacts are the phase input and winding outputs.
Let's look at the typical markings and purpose of the contacts in the table below. Please note that the numbering may differ depending on the relay manufacturer (Danfoss, Pozitron, Indesit etc.).
| Designation | Purpose | Wire color (standard) | Function |
|---|---|---|---|
1 or L |
Line (Input) | Brown / Red | Phase supply from the thermostat |
2 or S |
Start | Black / Green | Connecting the starting winding |
3 or R |
Run (Work) | Blue / White | Connecting the working winding |
Ground |
Grounding | Yellow-green | Protection against breakdown to the housing |
If you see the symbols NO (Normally Open) and NC (Normally Closed) on the relay, this indicates the state of the contacts at rest. For the starting relay, it is important that in a state of rest (when the relay lies on the table with the contacts facing up), the starting winding circuit is closed.
What do the numbers on the Stinol relay mean?
The numbers in the markings, for example 1320 or 1330, often indicate the rated cut-off current. For example, 1320 could mean the range of currents at which the relay is guaranteed to operate. Using a relay with the wrong range will result in the compressor not operating properly.>
When connecting wires, make sure that the insulation is removed just enough so that the contact is reliable, but the exposed part does not protrude beyond the terminal. A short circuit in this unit can damage the wiring of the refrigerator.
Checking operation after installation
After installation is completed, the moment of truth comes. Plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the compressor start confidently without a long hum. The characteristic click of the relay at the moment of startup is normal, but it should be followed by a smooth hum of the running motor.
Observe the operation of the unit for 10-15 minutes. The compressor should not switch off after a few seconds. If the refrigerator begins to get cold, and the compressor housing heats up evenly (more at the bottom, less at the top), it means the replacement was successful..
Pay attention to the current consumption if you have access to a measuring clamp. The current must not exceed the rated values indicated on the compressor nameplate. Excess current may indicate that the relay does not turn off the starting winding, which is dangerous.
- ✅ Even hum: the motor operates without vibrations or extraneous knocks.
- ❄️ Cooling: after 20-30 minutes the shelf in the freezer should become cold.
- 🌡️ Temperature: the relay housing should not heat up to the point where it is impossible to touch.
⚠️ Attention: If, after switching on, the circuit breaker in the panel knocks out or a cracking sound is heard, turn it off immediately refrigerator. This is a sign of a short circuit or incorrect connection of the wires.
In some cases, it may take time to stabilize the pressure in the system, especially if the refrigerator has been standing for a long time. Let it work for several hours before making final conclusions about the quality of the repair.
Frequent connection errors and their consequences
One of the most common mistakes is ignoring the orientation of the relay. Some models can only be installed in one position, others are universal. If you turn over a relay designed for vertical installation, gravity will not allow the core to move correctly, and startup will not occur.
Another error is poor contact of the wires in the terminals. If the wire is not inserted completely or is oxidized, the plastic at the junction will begin to heat up, which will lead to melting of the terminals and repeated failure. Always clean the wires to a shine before installation.
Using relays from refrigerators of a different power rating is also fatal. A relay from a small single-chamber refrigerator will not pull the powerful compressor of a two-chamber one Stinol, and vice versa, a relay that is too powerful will not turn off the starting winding in time.
Do not forget about thermal protection. If you only change the starting part, but the thermal relay is old and worn out, the new starter can quickly fail due to overloads. Replace the entire assembly.
Recommendations for extending service life
To ensure that the new relay lasts a long time, ensure good ventilation of the compressor compartment. Dust and pet hair that accumulate on the capacitor and around the motor cause overheating, which negatively affects all electrical components.
Make sure the voltage in the network is stable. Voltage surges can lead to burning of relay contacts. Using a surge protector or voltage stabilizer for your refrigerator is a smart investment in its longevity.
Regularly check the tightness of the wires. Vibration from compressor operation can weaken the connection over time. Once a year, it is recommended to carry out a preventive inspection of the back of the refrigerator.
If you notice that the refrigerator has started to work intermittently, do not wait for it to stop completely. Early diagnosis and replacement of the relay will cost less than repairing or replacing a burnt-out compressor.
Is it possible to install a relay from another brand, for example, Indesit or Ariston?
Yes, you can, because Stinol, Indesit i Ariston have been part of the same concern for a long time and use similar components. The main thing is the coincidence of electrical characteristics (current, type of contacts) and geometric dimensions for fitting on the pins of the compressor.
Why does the new relay click, but the refrigerator does not turn on?
This may indicate a malfunction of the compressor itself (interturn short circuit, jamming) or a lack of phase at the input to the relay. Also, the reason may be a faulty thermostat that does not send a signal to start.
Is it necessary to unsolder the old relay if it is soldered?
In refrigerators Stinol the relay is usually put on the contacts of the compressor and is not soldered. However, the wires to the relay can be soldered or connected through a terminal block. If the wires are soldered to the relay itself, they must be carefully unsoldered without damaging the insulation.
How to determine whether the compressor or just the relay has burned out?
Test the compressor windings with a multimeter. If the resistance between the contacts is infinitely high (open) or close to zero (short circuit), the compressor is faulty. If the resistance is within the normal range (tens of Ohms), most likely the problem is only in the relay.