Replacing and connecting the relay of the Sviyag refrigerator: a complete guide

Refrigerators of the brand Sviyaga have proven themselves to be reliable and durable units that can operate for decades. However, even the highest quality equipment is subject to natural wear and tear, and one of the first components to fail is often the start-up relay. It is this small element that is responsible for starting the compressor and protecting it from overloads, so its serviceability is critical for the operation of the entire system.

If you notice that your refrigerator has stopped freezing, the compressor hums but does not start, or it turns on for a few seconds and immediately clicks, the problem most likely lies in the electrical circuit engine. Starting relay in such cases, it must be immediately checked and, if necessary, replaced. Carrying out this procedure yourself allows you to significantly save on the services of a service center, since the replacement process is technically simple and does not require complex specialized equipment.

In this article we will analyze in detail the device of the relay, the principles of its operation and a step-by-step algorithm for replacing it on models Sviyaga. You will learn how to correctly diagnose a malfunction, select a compatible analogue and safely carry out installation work, restoring the refrigerator's functionality.

Design and principle of operation of a start-up protection relay

A start-up protection relay is an electromechanical switch that controls the supply of voltage to compressor motor windings. When the refrigerator is turned on, the relay supplies current to the starting winding, creating the necessary torque to rotate the rotor. As soon as the engine reaches the required speed, the starting winding must be turned off, and this function is performed opening mechanism inside the relay housing.

The second important function is thermal protection. Inside the device there is a bimetallic plate that reacts to the current consumed by the motor. If the compressor seizes or overloads, the current increases sharply, the plate heats up and opens the circuit, preventing the motor windings from burning out. In older models Sviyaga relays of the RTP type were often used, and in more modern ones - RT, RTK or their modern analogues.

Structurally, the device consists of a housing, an inductor, a movable core, contacts and a thermoelement. Failure of contacts (burning or sticking) is the most common cause of failure. The thermal protection may also fail, which will open the circuit even with normal current, or, conversely, will not work if there is an overload.

⚠️ Attention: There are live parts inside the relay. All replacement work should be carried out only after the refrigerator has been completely disconnected from the electrical network. Residual charge in capacitors can be dangerous; let the equipment stand turned off for 5-10 minutes before starting work.

Diagnostics of Sviyag relay faults

Before buying a new part, you need to make sure that the problem lies in the relay, and not in the compressor or thermostat itself. Primary diagnosis is carried out visually and auditorily. If, when you turn on the refrigerator, you hear a loud click, followed by a hum, and after a few seconds - another click and silence, this is a classic symptom of faulty start relay or a jammed compressor.

For a more accurate check, the relay must be removed from the compressor. Carefully disconnect the wires and remove the plastic casing. Visually inspect the insides: if the contacts are blackened, melted or have obvious traces of carbon deposits, the part requires replacement. Also check the integrity of the coil and the mobility of the core - it should move freely inside the coil under the influence of gravity.

If there are no visual defects, you can check with a multimeter in continuity mode. The resistance between the contacts must be within the normal range (usually close to zero for closed contacts and infinity for open ones in a cold state). Thermal relay is also tested for resistance: it must be closed at room temperature. If the multimeter shows a break, it means that the protection has worked and does not return to its original state, which requires replacing the element.

📊 What symptom of the malfunction have you encountered?
The compressor hums, but does not start
The refrigerator turns on and immediately turns off
Crackling or sparking is heard
The compressor is silent and does not respond

Selection of a compatible relay for replacement

Refrigerators Sviyaga equipped with various types of compressors, most often made in Denmark (Danfoss/Secop) or domestic analogues. Therefore, when selecting a new relay, it is critical to consider not only the brand of the refrigerator, but also the type of motor installed. On the body of the old relay there is always a marking, for example, RTK-1X, RTP-1 or 35U426.

The modern market offers many universal analogues that are suitable for a wide range of models. However, it is best to look for the original part or its direct analogue by catalog number. When purchasing, pay attention to compressor powerfor which the relay is intended. Using a part with an unsuitable power range can lead to rapid failure of both the new relay and the engine itself.

Below is a table of correspondence for some common types of relays that can be used in refrigerators Sviyaga of different years of manufacture. This information will help you navigate the range of spare parts.

Relay type Compatible compressors Design features Production status
RTK-1X NMT 100, 110, 125 Black body, vertical mount Removed, analogs available
RTP-1 DHM, HK Plastic case, thermal protection in a separate unit Produced
35U426 Secop (Danfoss) BD35, BD50 Universal starting, often with a capacitor Produced
RT-X-1 Atlant, Sviyaga (mod. 208) Combined start-up protection In production
Can I use a relay from another brand?

Yes, if the electrical characteristics (rated current, power) and mounting dimensions match. Often relays from Atlant or Indesit refrigerators are suitable for Sviyaga, provided that the power markings match.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the relay

The process of replacing the start-protection relay does not require high qualifications, but requires care and compliance with safety precautions. Before starting work, make sure that the refrigerator is unplugged for at least 15 minutes so that the compressor has time to cool down and the refrigerant in the system is redistributed.

First, remove the back metal cover at the bottom of the refrigerator that covers the compressor. You will see a black cylindrical or pear-shaped unit - this is a motor-compressor. A plastic or metal box is attached to its side where the wires fit. This is the relay you are looking for.

Carefully snap off the fixing clamps of the casing or unscrew the screws, if any. Remove the casing and note (or take a photo) the location of the wires. Disconnect the terminals from the relay contacts. There are usually three of them: general, starting and working. After this, simply pull the relay off the compressor rod. It is held in place due to its tight fit and weight.

☑️ Checklist before replacing the relay

Done: 0 / 5

Install a new relay on the compressor rod. It should fit tightly and not wobble. Orientation matters: the case often has an arrow or inscription TOPthat should face up. Connect the wires in accordance with the previously made diagram or markings on the terminals (C —general, S —starter, R —working). Put on the protective cover and secure it.

⚠️ Attention: Do not mix up the starting and operating winding wires. An error in the connection will result in the compressor not starting, humming or the thermal protection tripping after a few seconds. Always check the diagram on the body of the new relay.

Typical errors during installation and connection

One ​​of the most common mistakes is ignoring the orientation of the relay during installation. Start relays operate on the principle of gravity: the core must fall down under its own weight, opening the contacts. If you install the relay upside down or on its side (if this is not provided for by the design), the mechanism will not work correctly and the starting winding will not turn off, which will lead to its burning.

Another error is poor contact in the terminal block. If the wires are not inserted all the way or are oxidized, sparking and heating will occur at the connection point. Over time, this will lead to melting of the plastic and repeated failure. Contact group The relay terminals must be clean and tightly pressed together.

Some craftsmen try to “reanimate” the old relay by cleaning the contacts with sandpaper. This is strictly not recommended. The contact surface has a special silver coating, which provides low contact resistance. Stripping removes this layer, and soon the contacts will burn again, but this time completely. In addition, violation of the geometry of the moving parts can lead to sticking.

Checking functionality after replacement

After installing the new relay and assembling all the protective covers, you can begin testing. Plug in the refrigerator. In the first seconds you should hear a confident engine start without a long hum. The characteristic click of the relay at the moment of startup is normal. After 10-20 seconds, a second, quieter click should be heard when the starting winding is turned off.

Pay attention to the current consumption if you have access to measuring instruments (current clamps). The current must not exceed the rated values ​​indicated on the compressor nameplate. If the refrigerator operates quietly, without vibrations or extraneous sounds, and after 30-40 minutes cold appears in the chamber, the replacement can be considered successful.

It is also important to monitor the temperature of the relay housing during operation. After 15-20 minutes of operation, it may warm up slightly, but should not be so hot that it is impossible to touch. Excessive heating indicates poor contact or mismatch of parameters of the compressor power relay.

Prevention and extension of service life

In order for the new relay to last as long as possible, it is necessary to ensure good operating conditions for the compressor. Regularly, at least once a year, clean the condenser (the black grille at the back of the refrigerator) of dust and animal hair. A clogged capacitor leads to overheating of the system, increased pressure and, as a result, an increase in current in the motor windings, which loads the thermal protection of the relay.

Also monitor the stability of the voltage in the network. Voltage surges can puncture the relay coil insulation or cause the contacts to stick. If your area has unstable electricity, it is recommended to connect the refrigerator through a voltage stabilizer or surge protector with surge protection.

Do not operate the refrigerator with the door open for a long time. This forces the compressor to work almost non-stop, which leads to its overheating and increased load on the starting equipment. Compliance with these simple operating rules will help avoid repeated breakdowns and costly repairs.

Is it possible to install a relay with a different marking?

Yes, it is possible if the basic electrical parameters match: rated current, maximum cut-off current and type of fastening. It is important that the new relay matches the power of your compressor. For example, instead of RTK-1X, RTK-1-3 or universal analogues are often installed if they are suitable for the current.

Why does a new relay burn out immediately after installation?

Most often this happens due to problems with the compressor itself (interturn short circuit, jamming), due to which the current in the circuit exceeds the permissible, and The thermal protection of the relay does not have time to operate or burns out along with the contacts. Also, the reason may be incorrect connection of the wires.

Where to find the markings on the relay?

The markings are usually applied to the side or top of the plastic housing of the relay. Look for inscriptions like “RTK”, “RTP”, “35U”, “100N” and numbers indicating current (for example, 1.4A, 1.8A).

Do you need to change the capacitor along with the relay?

If in your model the relay is structurally combined with the capacitor (usually a black cylinder on the side), then the entire block changes. If the capacitor is separate and in good condition (not swollen, holds the capacity), it can be left, but during long-term use it is recommended to replace the entire set.