Refrigerators Atlant are deservedly considered one of the most reliable household appliances in the post-Soviet space, but over time, even the most proven equipment requires the intervention of a specialist. Often, owners are faced with a failure of the thermostat There 133, which stops turning off the compressor correctly or completely blocks the engine from starting. In such a situation, the user is faced with the question of finding an original spare part, which may be discontinued or be unreasonably expensive due to its rarity.
The salvation in such a situation is the installation of a more modern and affordable analogue - a series thermostat 59. This component has similar characteristics, but is structurally different in the method of fastening and the length of the capillary tube, which requires a careful approach to installation. Proper replacement will not only restore the functionality of the unit, but also ensure stable temperature conditions for storing food without overpaying for original components.
In this article we will analyze in detail the technical nuances of switching from one thermostat model to another. You will learn about the differences in electrical circuits, sealing features and subtleties of adjusting the temperature range, which are critical for the long-term operation of your refrigerator.
Design differences between models Tam 133 and 59
The first thing a master encounters when comparing two thermostats is the dimensions of the housing and the location of the contact group. The model There are 133 was traditionally used in classic two-chamber refrigerators and had a specific rod for attachment to the evaporator body. At the same time, the series 59 is designed taking into account more modern standards of versatility, which makes it compatible with a wide range of equipment, but requires adaptation during installation.
The second key difference lies in the length and sensitivity capillary tube. For the original sensor, the length could vary depending on the specific modification of the refrigerator Atlant, while for the analogue it is often standard. This means that during installation you may have to carefully twist the excess tube into a spiral, avoiding creases that could interfere with the circulation of refrigerant inside the sensor.
⚠️ Attention: Capillary tube thermostat is filled with sensitive gas under pressure. Any damage to its integrity, even a microscopic puncture or bend, will lead to instant failure of the new part.
It is also worth paying attention to the markings of the contacts. If on older models the designations could be applied with paint, which wears off over time, then on the new series thermostats 59 a more durable stamping is used. However, the polarity and purpose of the terminals may differ, so you cannot rely only on the visual similarity of the old and new parts - a check with a multimeter is necessary.
Necessary tools and safety measures
Before starting the repair, it is necessary to prepare the workplace and tools. Replacing a thermostat involves electrical and complex mechanical work, so safety is the number one priority. You will need a basic DIY kit, supplemented with specialized diagnostic instruments.
- 🔧 A set of screwdrivers with different tips (phillips and flat) for dismantling panels.
- ⚡ A multimeter or tester to check the continuity of the circuit and the absence of a short circuit.
- 🧤 Dielectric gloves and insulating tape for protection against electric shock.
- 🔦 A powerful flashlight for illuminating hard-to-reach places inside the refrigerator.
The most important rule is to completely disconnect the device from the power supply. Even if you are only replacing a mechanical part, the risk of touching exposed wires or causing a short circuit if moved carelessly remains high. Electrical Safety requires that the power cord be physically removed from the outlet before starting any work.
Additionally, prepare a container for defrosting if During dismantling, you will need to keep the door open for a long time. Moisture should not come into contact with the electrical contacts of the thermostat, so all surfaces must be dry. If you work in conditions of high humidity, it is recommended to use moisture-proof mats.
Removing the faulty thermostat There 133
The process of removing the old sensor begins with disassembling the interior of the refrigerator compartment. In models Atlant the thermostat is usually hidden under a plastic cover or located in a niche next to the lighting lamp. Carefully remove the decorative elements, trying not to damage the plastic latches, which become brittle from the cold.
After gaining access to the assembly, carefully inspect the method of attaching the capillary tube to the evaporator. It can be pressed with a metal plate, secured with a clip, or simply inserted into the technological hole. Your task is to release the tube without using excessive force so as not to deform the thin walls of the refrigerator heat exchanger.
☑️ Removal procedure
When the mechanical fastening is freed, move on to the electrical part. Before disconnecting the wires, it is strongly recommended to take a photo a connection diagram or sketch it. Insulation colors can fade over time, and relying on memory for such matters is dangerous. Unscrew the terminal screws or carefully remove the block if the design provides for a detachable connection.
Installation technology of the 59 series analog
Installing a new thermostat requires precision in the positioning of the sensitive element. Unlike There 133, the model 59 may not have a standard hole for mounting for a specific niche Atlanta. In this case, craftsmen often use the standard mounting hole of the old sensor, carefully threading the new unit through it, or use additional adapters if they are included.
Pay special attention to laying the capillary tube. Its end should fit tightly to the surface of the evaporator in the same place where the old sensor was located. To improve heat transfer, the contact area can be lubricated with a small amount thermal conductive greasealthough in most cases a clean metal contact is sufficient. The tube should not touch moving parts or sharp metal edges.
⚠️ Attention: Do not secure the capillary tube with tape or tape directly in the cooling zone - these materials may harden and burst, leaving the sensor hanging in the air, resulting in incorrect readings temperature.
When connecting wires, follow the diagram made earlier or the markings on the terminals of the new device. Typically the terminals are numbered or have letters (L, 1, 2, 4). If the colors of the wires in your refrigerator differ from the standard ones, use a multimeter in continuity mode to determine the circuits. Make sure that the ground wires (if any, usually yellow-green) are connected to the case or the appropriate terminal.
What to do if the wires are short?
If the length of the standard wires of the new thermostat is not enough, do not strain them under any circumstances. Extend the wires using copper pieces of the same section. Be sure to solder the twist and carefully insulate it with heat shrink. Poor contact in the compressor control circuit can cause sparking and melting of the insulation.
Temperature setting and calibration
After physical installation and connection, the setup stage begins. Thermostats series 59 often have an adjusting screw accessible through a hole in the housing or under a seal. This screw allows you to shift the operating temperature range. The factory setting may not perfectly match the requirements of your refrigerator, so adjustments may be required.
For initial calibration, set the temperature control to the middle position (usually number 3 or 4 on the scale). Start the refrigerator and let it run idle for 4-6 hours. Use an external thermometer placed in a glass of water on the middle shelf to monitor the actual temperature inside the chamber.
If the temperature is not as expected (for example, too low or too high), adjustments will be required. Turning the screw clockwise usually increases the shutdown temperature (the refrigerator will be colder), and counterclockwise it decreases it. Proceed carefully, making turns no more than 45 degrees, and wait for the mode to stabilize after each change.
| Parameter | Value for There 133 | Value for series 59 | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Capillary tube length | 0.73 - 1.3 m (variable) | Standard 0.73 m / 1.3 m | Important to choose correct length upon purchase |
| Switch-on temperature | -12...-14 °C | -12...-14 °C | Depends on the modification (K59, K50, etc.) |
| Switch-off temperature | +3...+5 °C | +3...+5 °C | Requires calibration with a screw |
| Mounting type | Specific for Atlas | Universal | Requires adaptation during installation |
Diagnostics after replacement and typical errors
After completing installation, do not rush to load the products. Carry out a test cycle of the refrigerator. The compressor should turn on when the temperature rises and turn off when a specified threshold is reached. If the engine runs without interruption or does not start at all, it means that there is an error in the connection diagram or the new thermostat itself is faulty.
One of the common mistakes is poor contact of the capillary tube with the evaporator. If the sensor “hangs” in the air of the refrigerator compartment, it reacts to the air temperature, and not to the evaporator temperature, which leads to rare starts of the compressor and defrosting of food. Make sure that the tube is pressed tightly.
It is also worth checking the operation of the lighting lamp. Often the thermostat and lamp switch are located in the same unit. If, after replacing the thermostat, the lamp stops lighting when you open the door, you may have accidentally damaged the switch mechanism or connected the common wire incorrectly.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to install thermostat 59 without changing the length of the capillary tube?
Yes, it is possible if you buy a model with a tube of the required length already installed. However, most often you have to carefully twist the excess into a ring with a diameter of at least 10 cm. The main thing is not to break the tube, since there is refrigerant inside it under pressure.
Why does the refrigerator not turn off after replacing the thermostat?
This may indicate several problems: incorrect setting of the adjusting screw, freon leak in the system, compressor malfunction or error in connecting wires (closing the circuit bypassing the thermostat contacts). Check the connection diagram first.
Is it necessary to change the door seal when replacing the thermostat?
No, replacing the thermostat does not require intervention in the door structure or replacement of the seal. However, if the door was warped when dismantling the old panels, check the tightness of the seal and, if necessary, adjust the position of the door.
What is the difference between the K59-L1182 thermostat and the K59-L1263?
The differences lie in the temperature range of operation and the length of the capillary tube. For refrigerators Atlant models with a certain on/off temperature range are most often suitable. Using an unsuitable modification will lead to either perpetual freezing or insufficient cooling.