The situation when the refrigerator stops freezing or, conversely, turns food into an icy monolith, often indicates a malfunction of the temperature sensor. In older models of refrigerators, such as Atlant, Stinol or Zil, a mechanical thermostat of the series TAM 133is responsible for maintaining the temperature. Replacing this element requires precision, since incorrect connection can lead to failure of the compressor.
Before taking active steps, it is necessary Make sure you have the right tools and a new, working sensor. The replacement process is not overly complicated, but it requires compliance with safety precautions and an understanding of the operating principle of the electrical circuit of the refrigeration unit. In this article, we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions so that you can carry out repairs yourself.
Working with electrical components always carries risks if you ignore basic safety rules. Be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply before starting any work. This is the first and main rule, violation of which can cost your life. Even if you are just checking the contacts, a voltage of 220 volts does not forgive mistakes.
⚠️ Attention: Thermostats of the TAM 133 series may have different capillary tube lengths. When purchasing a new spare part, be sure to check this parameter with the original, since a tube that is too long will require careful installation, and a short one may not reach the evaporator.
Diagnostics of a malfunction of the TAM 133 thermostat
Before disassembling the refrigerator, it is worth conducting an initial diagnosis to make sure that the problem lies precisely in thermostat. Users often confuse a sensor failure with a malfunction of the start relay or the compressor itself. If the engine hums, but does not produce cold, or it does not start at all, although the light is on, suspicion falls on the control circuit.
To check, you will need a multimeter. Switch the device to continuity or resistance measurement mode. Remove the plastic cover from the thermostat knob and get to the electrical contacts. Usually there are three or two of them, depending on the modification and the presence of an indicator lamp. Contact should close when the knob is turned to the “maximum” position.
If the multimeter shows an open circuit even with the knob turned to the maximum, it means that the internal membrane or contacts have burned out. It is also worth visually inspecting the capillary tube for kinks or signs of corrosion. Damage to the tube leads to leakage of freon filler, due to which the sensor stops responding to temperature changes.
- 🔍 The compressor does not turn on, although there is voltage in the network - a sign of an open thermostat circuit.
- ❄️ The refrigerator freezes constantly without turning off - the contacts are “stuck” in the closed condition.
- 💡 The light inside is on, but the motor is silent - there is likely a problem in the control element.
- 🔌 Traces of burning or melting are visible on the contacts - immediate replacement of the unit is required.
Necessary tools and preparation
For a successful replacement thermostat TAM 133 does not require complex industrial equipment. A standard DIY kit is sufficient. It is important to prepare your work area: the table should be clean and well-lit so as not to lose small screws or mix up wires.
You will need screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead), side cutters or wire cutters, as well as insulating tape or heat shrink to protect the connections. If you plan to solder wires, prepare a soldering iron and solder, although in most cases a good quality twist with insulation will suffice. Don't forget to wear gloves to avoid getting hurt on sharp metal edges.
Pay special attention when choosing a new thermostat. The model TAM 133 has several modifications that differ in the temperature range of operation and the length of the capillary. For single-compartment refrigerators and freezers, parameters may vary. Using an unsuitable spare part will lead to incorrect operation of the unit.
☑️ Preparing to replace the thermostat
Removing the old thermostat
The process of removing the old sensor begins with access to it. In most refrigerator models, the thermostat is located inside the refrigerator compartment, behind a plastic panel or directly in the lighting control unit. Sometimes partial disassembly of the interior is required.
Carefully remove the temperature control knob. It may be a tight fit, so be careful not to break the plastic. Under the handle you will see the mounting screws that hold the thermostat housing in place. After unscrewing them, the block can be removed, but be careful with the capillary tube.
The capillary tube is secured to the evaporator with special clamping strips or clips. They need to be carefully snapped off. Main task - pull the sensitive element out of the socket without damaging it or bending the tube too much. Then disconnect the electrical wires. Before disconnecting, it is recommended to photograph the connection diagram or mark the wires with a marker so as not to get confused during assembly.
⚠️ Attention: The capillary tube of the TAM 133 thermostat is very thin and fragile. Do not bend it at a sharp angle and do not pull it with force. Damage to the tube will make the new thermostat unusable.
Connection diagram and installation of the new sensor
Installation of the new thermostat is carried out in the reverse order, but observing important nuances. The electrical connection diagram depends on the number of contacts. In the standard version THERE 133 usually three contacts: one for the phase input and two for the output (to the compressor and to the lamp, or an open circuit).
If your thermostat has two contacts, the circuit is simple: the circuit opens in series with the compressor. If there are three contacts, then one of them (usually marked or located separately) goes to the indicator lamp or defrost button. Errors in the connection may result in the refrigerator not turning off or the light not working.
To securely connect the wires, use twisting followed by soldering or special connecting sleeves. Simply twisted wires will oxidize over time, leading to heating and possible fire. After connection, be sure to insulate the joints with heat shrink or high-quality electrical tape.
| Wire color (conditionally) | Purpose | Contact on TAM 133 | Where it goes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Red / Brown | Phase (Input) | General input | From power plug |
| Black / Gray | Output to motor | Working contact | To the starting relay |
| Yellow / Green | Grounding | Housing | To the housing refrigerator |
| Blue / White | On the lamp/indicator | Additional. contact | To the light bulb |
What to do if the colors of the wires do not match the diagram?
If the colors of the wires in your refrigerator differ from the standard ones, do not rely only on the color. Use the multimeter in dial mode. Locate the wire coming from the plug (phase) and the wire going to the compressor. The thermostat is always placed in the open phase wire going to the motor. Ring the circuit: when you turn the thermostat knob, the circuit should close and open.
Adjusting and setting the temperature
After installing a new thermostat TAM 133 it must be adjusted. There is an adjusting screw on the body of the product, access to which is often closed with a seal or plastic plug. Rotation of this screw changes the temperature at which the compressor turns on and off.
The factory setting is usually optimal for most conditions, but if the refrigerator begins to freeze less or more than usual, adjustments may be required. Turning the screw clockwise usually increases the shutdown temperature (the refrigerator will turn off earlier), and counterclockwise it lowers it (it will freeze more).
Do not immediately tighten the screw all the way. Make small turns (literally a quarter or half a turn) and observe the operation of the unit throughout the day. The optimal temperature in the main chamber should be +2...+5 degrees Celsius. For an accurate check, use an external thermometer placed in a glass of water.
Typical errors when replacing
One of the most common mistakes is incorrect installation of the capillary tube. If it touches hot parts of the refrigerator or lies in the wrong direction of air flow, the temperature reading will be distorted. The tube should fit tightly to the evaporator in the same place where the original one was.
Also, beginners often forget to insulate the contacts, which leads to a short circuit when condensation enters. Moisture is a constant companion in the refrigerator, so high-quality insulation is critically important. Use only materials designed for low temperatures.
Ignoring checking the start relay is another mistake. If the thermostat burns out due to a power surge or overload, chances are the compressor relay has also been damaged. Before installing a new sensor, check the condition of other elements of the electrical circuit.
- 🚫 Do not leave the capillary tube dangling in the air - it must be in contact with the cooled surface.
- 🚫 Do not use ordinary office electrical tape - it will dry out in the cold and come off.
- 🚫 Do not turn on the refrigerator immediately after installation - let the oil in the compressor settle for 2-3 hours.
- 🚫 Do not ignore strange sounds after replacement - they may indicate incorrect installation.
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics of refrigerators and safety requirements may change by manufacturers. Always check the labeling of the new thermostat with the data on the nameplate of your refrigerator or in the official manual. The information in the article is for reference only for standard models.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to install a TAM 133 thermostat instead IS THERE 112?
In most cases this is possible, since they are structurally similar. However, you need to pay attention to the length of the capillary tube and the temperature range. TAM 133 is often used in single-chamber refrigerators and freezers, and TAM 112 in double-chamber ones. If the temperature range of the new sensor is narrower, the refrigerator may not work correctly.
Why does the new thermostat click, but the compressor does not start?
The click means that the contacts inside the thermostat are closing. If the motor does not hum, the problem is not with the sensor. Most likely, the start relay is faulty, the compressor itself is faulty, or there is a break in the wiring between the thermostat and the motor. It is necessary to test the circuit with a multimeter.
How to understand that the thermostat does not hold the temperature?
If the refrigerator turns off, but the food begins to spoil after a short time, or it turns on too often (short cycle), it means that the settings are wrong or the sensitive element is not working correctly. Check the temperature in the chamber with an external thermometer.
Is it necessary to defrost the refrigerator before replacing?
Yes, complete defrosting is desirable. This will make it easier to access the evaporator, where the capillary tube is attached, and will prevent water from getting on the electrical contacts during operation. In addition, it is safer to work with electricians in a dry refrigerator.