The need to change the side opening the refrigerator door Biryusa often occurs when moving to a new kitchen or after remodeling the room, when the standard location becomes inconvenient. Modern models of this Russian brand, such as series 133, 134, 642 or newer 135, were initially designed with the ability to reverse, which greatly simplifies the task for the owner. However, despite the declared universality of the design, the process requires accuracy, the presence of a basic set of tools and an understanding of the structure of hinge mechanisms.
Unlike simple cabinets, the tightness of the chamber and the durability of the seal are at stake here, therefore rehanging doors must be carried out strictly according to technology. Incorrect adjustment may cause the valve to not fit tightly against the housing, causing freezing or constant operation of the compressor. In this guide, we will look at the nuances of working with different types of hinges, the features of dismantling handles and setting up magnetic locks.
Before starting any manipulations, it is strongly recommended to empty the refrigerator and freezer compartments of food, and also completely disconnect the unit from the power supply. This will not only protect you from electric shock, but will also make it easier to remove shelves and drawers that may interfere with access to fasteners. It is critically important to wait until defrosting if there is ice on the seals or internal walls, since frozen moisture can block the hinge mechanism.
Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools
The success of the operation depends 80% on proper preparation. You will need a flat, clear area in front of the refrigerator where you can place the removed items. It is better to cover the floor with soft material, such as cardboard or an old blanket, so as not to damage the door enamel during temporary storage. Working alone with large models Biryusa is extremely difficult and risky, so call an assistant in advance who can hold the heavy doors while unscrewing the bolts.
As for the tools, the basic set of a home craftsman usually includes everything you need. The main working tool will be a wrench or a head 10 mm, since this is the size of the fastener that is most often used in factory assembly. You also cannot do without a Phillips screwdriver PH2 to remove handles and decorative plugs, and in some cases you may need a flat-head screwdriver to carefully pry up plastic elements.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use impact screwdrivers at maximum speed for unscrewing the old hinge bolts, as vibration can damage the threads in the thin metal of the case or split the plastic bushings.
For ease of operation and the safety of small parts, prepare a magnetic tray or several small containers to store bolts, washers and bushings separately for the upper and lower groups of hinges. You can't mix up the fasteners, but the loss of small elements, such as locking pins or springs, can stop the entire process. Check in advance for the presence of grease, for example, lithium, which is recommended to treat the rubbing mechanisms before final assembly.
☑️ Tools and preparation
Dismantling the top hinge and removing the door
Process It always starts from the top of the structure, since it is the top hinge that holds the main weight of the sash suspended. The first step is to remove the decorative cover that hides the mounting bolts. In models Turk it can be held on by latches or a small screw that needs to be unscrewed counterclockwise. Be careful not to break the plastic clips, which become brittle over time.
After removing the cover, you will see the mechanism of the upper hinge, to which the pen holder rod or the pen itself, if it is integrated, is attached. Before loosening the main bolts that secure the hinge to the frame, you will need to disconnect the electrical wires if your model has a door open alarm or display. The connectors are usually located next to the hinge and are easily separated by a slight wiggle.
Now comes the most crucial moment: one person must hold the door firmly, preventing it from falling, while the second unscrews the bolts of the top hinge. Once the fasteners are removed, the door can be lifted slightly and removed from the bottom support sleeve. Do not place the removed part vertically, resting it on a handle or corner - this may deform the metal or damage the sealing rubber.
Electrical nuances
In models with a display on the door, wires can be laid inside the door cavity. When removing the top hinge, make sure that you do not pull on the wiring harness, otherwise you may damage the contacts or the cable itself, which will lead to the indication not working.
A similar procedure is carried out with the second door if you change the opening side on a two-chamber refrigerator. It is important to remember the sequence here: first the upper door is removed, then the lower one. This provides security and gives access to hidden fasteners, which can be covered by the upper door when assembled.
Rearranging the lower support and hinges
After the doors have been removed and set aside in a safe place, attention turns to the body of the refrigerator. The bottom support sleeve on which the door rests is usually screwed into the end or bolted from below. It must be unscrewed and moved to the opposite side, where a symmetrical threaded hole is provided for this. In some modifications Biryusa the hole may be closed with a plastic plug that needs to be removed.
Next we move on to rearranging the loops themselves. The design of the hinge mechanism is often symmetrical, but has specific protrusions or holes that must point in a certain direction relative to the axis of rotation. If you change the side from right to left, the hinge must be turned over or rearranged into the corresponding holes on the opposite end of the case. The fastening bolts should be tightened tightly, but without excessive force, so as not to strip the thread.
The closer or locking mechanism requires special attention, if it is provided for in the design. In models with a magnetic lock or a mechanical position lock, you must make sure, when moving, that the mating part is also moved to the new side. Often this requires simply moving a small metal tongue or magnet into a prepared slot on the opposite side of the case.
It is important to check the horizontal installation of the refrigerator itself before final installation of the doors. If the unit is not level, even perfectly hung doors will open spontaneously or, conversely, not close completely. Use the adjustable supports at the bottom of the case to level the horizon, and the back of the refrigerator should be slightly higher than the front for proper closing.
Installing doors on a new side
Installing doors in a new location begins with the bottom door, if we are talking about a two-chamber refrigerator. First, the lower support sleeve is installed, the door is carefully placed on it, and the ease of rotation is checked. Then an intermediate loop is installed (if there is one between the cameras) or immediately the upper loop, depending on the model. At this stage, the bolts are not fully tightened so that there is still room for adjusting the gaps.
When installing the top door, you must be especially careful with electrical wires. Wire harnesses leading from the housing to the light bulbs or display must be carefully placed in the channels or clips intended for them. Pinched wire can lead to a short circuit or failure of the control system, so make sure that when closing the door the insulation does not rub against the metal edges.
The final tightening of all the bolts is done only after you have made sure that the doors are in place correctly and nothing interferes with their movement. It is recommended to use a torque wrench or simply control the force by hand: the bolt should be tightened tightly, but the metal should not deform around the bolt head. After this, decorative plugs are installed in the vacated holes on the old side.
At this stage, handles are also installed if they were dismantled. In models Biryusa with integrated or hidden handles, this step may be omitted, but if the handle is overhead, make sure that it is screwed on symmetrically and does not touch the body when opening. Check the operation of the mechanism: the door should open smoothly, without jerking or extraneous sounds.
Adjusting the gaps and tightness
The most important stage, which is often ignored, is the final adjustment. After installing the door on the new side, the gaps between the door and body may be uneven. If the door is skewed, you need to slightly loosen the hinge bolts and, by rocking the door in the desired direction, achieve a uniform gap around the entire perimeter. Then the bolts are tightened again.
The tightness of the seal is checked by a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet with the door around the perimeter and try to pull it out: it should come out with noticeable force. If the paper falls out on its own or is pulled out too easily, it means that it is not sealing in this place. This can be corrected by tightening the adjusting screws on the hinges or, as a last resort, heating the seal with a hairdryer to give it elasticity. seal does not fit. This can be corrected by tightening the adjusting screws on the hinges or, as a last resort, heating the seal with a hairdryer to make it elastic.
The table below will help you navigate possible problems and methods for solving them at the adjustment stage:
| Problem | Probable cause | Solution method |
|---|---|---|
| The door opens by itself | The refrigerator is tilted forward | Unscrew the front support legs |
| The gap in the top corner | Top hinge skewed | Loosen and move the hinge down/sideways |
| Difficult to close the door | Hit the body or shelf | Check the level and position shelves |
| Whistling when closing | Friction of the seal | Lubricate the seal or check the gap |
Please note that new seals or doors that have not been opened for a long time may close tightly the first few days. This is normal as the rubber needs time to develop and take the desired shape. However, if the door closes with a loud bang or requires strong force, adjustment is required.
⚠️ Attention: If after adjustment the gaps remain uneven, check the geometry of the door itself. During transportation, the metal may have received a dent or deformation that cannot be corrected by simply adjusting the hinges.
Frequent errors and troubleshooting
In the process of self-repair, beginners often make mistakes that can negate all efforts. One of the most common is the loss or confusion of washers and bushings. Even one extra or missing washer can change the angle of the door by several degrees, which will lead to loose closure. Always check the number of parts before and after disassembly.
Another mistake is ignoring the condition of the seal. When removing the door, the rubber often gets pulled up or dirty. If the seal has cracks or has lost elasticity, hanging the door will not help - the cold will go away. In such cases seal it is better to replace at the same time as re-weighing, selecting an original spare part for your model Biryusa.
It is also worth mentioning the problem of “walking” bolts. If the threads in the housing are broken or twisted, simply tightening the bolt will not work. In this case, you can use a longer bolt, if the design allows, or use a repair sleeve. However, if the damage is serious, you may need to weld or replace the entire end, which is best left to professionals.
If after all the manipulations the refrigerator begins to work louder or the cooling cycles become more frequent, check if the door is touching any elements inside or outside. Sometimes the displacement of the axis of rotation leads to the door touching the protruding parts of the case or shelf, creating vibration.
Questions and answers (FAQ)
Is it possible to change the doors on the Biryusa refrigerator alone?
Theoretically, it is possible if the model is narrow and light (for example, single-chamber), but is strongly not recommended. The door is heavy and uncomfortable, there is a high risk of dropping it, damaging the floor or getting injured. For two-chamber models, the help of a second person is required.
What to do if the holes for the hinges on the new side are closed?
In most models Biryusa the holes are already drilled and closed with plastic plugs or stickers. If there are physically no holes (in very old or specific models), drilling metal yourself is dangerous - you can damage the cooling circuit running in the walls.
Do you need to wait after turning on the refrigerator after re-hanging it?
Yes, after any work related to tilting or moving the refrigerator, it is recommended to let it stand in an upright position for 2-4 hours before turning on. This is necessary for the oil to drain into the compressor, especially if the unit was tilted by more than 40 degrees.
Why did the door begin to close worse after rehanging?
Most likely, the tilt level of the housing is broken. The door closes itself only when the center of gravity is shifted. Check the adjustment legs: the front ones should be twisted a little more than the rear ones to create a backward tilt.