Remodeling the kitchen or banal rearrangement of furniture often confronts owners of household appliances with a fact: the refrigerator no longer fits into the interior, and opening it becomes inconvenient. The situation when the door rests against a wall or blocks a passage can be solved quite simply - just hang the door on the opposite side. This procedure is available not only to professional craftsmen, but also to those who are ready to carefully follow the instructions and observe safety precautions.
However, before you take up the tools, you need to understand that design of refrigeration units different manufacturers may differ significantly. If in the old Atlant or Biryusa models the process takes 15 minutes, then modern systems No Frost with complex electronics and displays on the facade require a more delicate approach. It is important not just to unscrew the bolts, but also to maintain the tightness of the seal, as well as the integrity of internal communications.
In this article we will analyze a step-by-step algorithm of actions that will help you independently change the direction of opening the door. You will learn about the nuances of working with different types of hinges, features of dismantling handles and ways to adjust gaps so that after installation the door closes tightly and silently. Properly performed work will extend the life of the compressor and protect food from spoilage.
Preparation for work and assessment of the design
The first step is a thorough visual inspection of your refrigerator. Not all models allow production rehanging the doors. If you are the owner of a budget model or a specific built-in unit, it is possible that the manufacturer has provided hinges on only one side. Carefully study the technical data sheet or inspect the end parts of the case: the presence of plugs (plastic or metal) on the opposite side is a green light to begin work.
⚠️ Attention: If there are no mounting holes on the opposite side of the case or they are “blind” (not through), you cannot change the opening side. An attempt to drill into the body will disrupt the thermal insulation circuit, which will lead to failure of the equipment.
Next, you need to free up the space around the refrigerator. You will need access to the unit from all sides, including the rear wall. Move the equipment away from the wall at least 50–70 centimeters. Make sure the floor is level and stable, as removing one of the doors will shift the center of gravity and cause the refrigerator to wobble. Prepare your work area in advance by covering the floor with soft material so as not to damage the coating or break glass shelves if they fall.
Gather the necessary tools in advance so as not to interrupt the process. You will need: Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, a set of wrenches (often sizes 8, 10, 13 mm), hex sockets and possibly ratchet sockets. Some models Liebherr or Bosch may require special keys included in the kit or hexagons of non-standard sizes. Also, do not forget about Vaseline or silicone grease for processing new hinges.
Removing the top panel and preparing the facade
The process always starts from the top of the refrigerator compartment. In most models, this is where the main fasteners of the top hinge are hidden. First you need to remove the decorative cover, if present. It can be held on by latches or small screws. Be careful not to break the plastic clips, which become brittle over time.
After removing the cover, you will see the top hinge. Before unscrewing the bolts, be sure to have a helper hold the top door. It is heavy, and when unscrewing the last bolt it can fall sharply, damaging the floor or its own body. Unscrew the hinge mounting bolts, but do not remove them completely yet if the design allows you to release the tension first. If a handle is installed on the door, it must also be removed by unscrewing the screws from the inside.
At this stage, it is important to pay attention to the electrical connections. In modern models with a display or system Smart Door wires often pass through the top loop. They must be carefully disconnected, having previously photographed or marked the connectors so as not to be confused during assembly. The connectors may be tight, so you should not pull the wires - use a thin screwdriver or tweezers to carefully remove the chip.
Removing the doors and lower hinges
After disconnecting the upper hinge, the refrigerator door is removed. Carefully lift it, moving the bottom hinge pin out of the mounting hole, and set it aside in a safe place. It is best to place it on a prepared soft surface with the outer side down, having previously covered it with a cloth so as not to scratch the facade. Now access to the middle crossbar (if there is one) or the bottom of the upper chamber is open.
If you have a two-compartment refrigerator with a common partition, the process is repeated for the freezer. Remove the decorative plugs, unscrew the fasteners and dismantle the second door. For side-by-side models, the sequence may vary, but the principle remains the same: always start at the top and work your way down. Do not place the removed doors on their end - this may deform the internal contour or damage the seal.
Now we move on to the lower supports and hinges. Unscrew the bottom brackets from the “old” side. Pay attention to the adjustable supports (legs) of the refrigerator: they will also have to be rearranged or replaced with symmetrical ones if the design provides for different types of supports in front and behind. Often, spare pins and plugs are included with the refrigerator, which are located in the egg compartment or in a bag with documents - find them before throwing away the packaging.
☑️ Removal checklist
Installing hinges on the new side
We proceed to installation on the new side. At the end of the case, where the plugs were previously located, it is now necessary to install the main fasteners. Insert the metal pins or screw the bottom support plates into the new location. Make sure that the threaded connections are tightened all the way, but without excessive force, so as not to strip the threads in the housing, especially if it is made of thin metal or plastic.
Install the doors in the reverse order: first the lower one (freezer compartment), then the upper one. Installing the top door will again require the assistance of a second person. Align the holes in the door with the installed top hinge. Insert the mounting bolts, but do not fully tighten them yet. This is an important point: final tightening is done only after you make sure that the doors are level and the gaps are the same throughout the entire height.
Don't forget about the electrics. Carefully route the wires into their designated channels within the housing or loop so that they do not get caught in moving parts or become pinched. Connect the display connectors until you hear a click. If you reverse the polarity or do not insert the chip completely, the display may not work or show incorrect data. Check the integrity of the wire insulation before final assembly.
⚠️ Attention: When installing the hinges, make sure that there are no distortions between the metal parts of the hinge and the body. If the hinge is crooked, the door will open with force or, conversely, will begin to open spontaneously, violating the temperature regime.
Adjusting the gaps and tightness
After all the elements are in place, the fine-tuning stage begins. The main task is to achieve perfect fit of the seal around the entire perimeter and symmetrical gaps between the doors (in two-chamber models). The refrigerator legs are used to adjust the height. By rotating them clockwise or counterclockwise, you can raise or lower the corresponding corner of the unit.
Check the operation of the closing mechanism. A door opened at an angle of about 30–45 degrees should close smoothly and independently under the influence of magnets and its own weight. If the door does not “reach” all the way and remains ajar, the refrigerator may not be level or the body is skewed. Use a building level to check that the top panel is level.
Pay special attention to the magnetic seal. After rehanging, it may not fit tightly due to the changed opening geometry. If you notice gaps through which warm air penetrates, the seal can be heated with a hairdryer (not too hot air) and slightly straightened with your hands, giving it the desired shape. Also check if the seal does not lift up when closing - this is a common problem when the hinges are installed incorrectly.
Features of models with displays and the No Frost system
Owners of modern refrigerators with the system No Frost and electronic controls on the door should be especially careful. In such models, not one, but several wire harnesses pass through the top loop. When rehanging, it may be necessary to rearrange the decorative overlay of the display or move the control module if it is located in the upper part of the door.
The question often arises: what to do with the holes from the hinges on the old side? For this purpose, plastic plugs are always included in the kit. They can be round or rectangular, matching the color of the body or universal white. It is important to choose the correct size plug so that moisture and dust do not penetrate through it. In some cases (for example, for models Indesit or Aristonit is necessary to move the decorative strip hiding the top hinge to the other side.
Below is a table that helps you navigate typical problems when rehanging different types of refrigerators:
| Type refrigerator | Complexity of work | Presence of wires | Do you need special equipment? tool |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single-chamber (small) | Low | No | No (regular screwdriver) |
| Double-chamber (classic) | Average | No / Rarely | Key for 10 or 8 |
| No Frost with display | High | Yes (several connectors) | Hexagons, pliers |
| Side-by-Side | Very high | Yes (complex wiring) | Yes, participation of 2 people is desirable |
Typical errors and ways to eliminate them
One of the most common mistakes is ignoring the floor level. If the kitchen floor has a slope and you simply hang the door, it may begin to open on its own. In this case, it is necessary to adjust the front legs of the refrigerator so that the body is slightly tilted back. This will create the correct gravity vector, and the door will tend to the closed position.
Another mistake is the loss of fasteners. Hinge bolts often have a specific thread or length. Using “similar” bolts from a home workshop can lead to the fact that the hinge will not hold securely, or the bolt will rest against the inner wall and damage the circuit. Immediately place all removed bolts and washers in a separate container so as not to confuse them with fasteners for the other side.
Also, users often forget to remove the shipping fasteners or packing tape from internal mechanisms before installation. If after assembly you hear a grinding noise or feel strong resistance when opening, stop immediately. Disassemble the structure again and check for foreign objects in the hinge area or between the seal and the body.
What to do if the door is skewed after installation?
If you notice that the door is hanging crookedly, try loosening the bolts of the top hinge, visually align the door and tighten them again. If this does not help, check the adjusting screws on the hinge itself (if there are any) or the height of the refrigerator legs. Sometimes you need to place a washer under one side of the hinge.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to hang a door if there is a display on it?
Yes, it is possible, but it is more difficult. You will have to carefully disconnect the cables running through the loop. Some models (for example, Samsung or LG) may require rearranging the control panel itself or using extension cables, which are sometimes included. The main thing is not to damage the thin contacts of the connectors.
Is it necessary to defrost the refrigerator before rehanging it?
It is advisable, but not necessary. However, if there is a lot of ice in the freezer, the weight of the door will be significantly greater, making it difficult to operate. In addition, when tilting the refrigerator (if it is required to access the bottom), water from the melted ice will not flow into the compressor if the unit is defrosted and wiped dry.
What to do if plugs for old holes are lost?
Plugs can be purchased at furniture fittings stores or ordered from a spare parts manufacturer. As a last resort, if the holes are on the side wall (not in a visible place), they can be sealed with a decorative sticker in the color of the body or carefully covered with a wax restoration pencil, choosing the color.
Why did the door begin to close tightly after rehanging?
Most likely, you tightened the hinge bolts too much, and it stood up askew, or the seal got stuck. Try loosening the top hinge a little, pressing the door against the body and tightening the bolts again. Also, the new seal may be hard - after 1-2 weeks of active use it will develop and become softer.
Does re-hanging the door affect the warranty?
According to consumer protection legislation, independent repairs or modifications (which includes re-hanging, if it is not described in the instructions as a recommended procedure for the user) may cause a denial of warranty service if the breakdown is related to your actions. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to call a specialist from an authorized center.