The situation when the refrigerator Indesit stops freezing, and the compressor is either silent or hums in vain, often leaving the owner with a choice: call a technician or act on his own. Replacement compressor is one of the most difficult procedures in the repair of household appliances, requiring not only technical skills, but also specific equipment. If you decide to take this step, it is important to understand that we are talking about working with a closed refrigerant circulation system, where tightness is a critical parameter.
In this article we will analyze in detail the replacement process motor-compressor on refrigerators of this brand, paying attention to the nuances of soldering, vacuuming and refilling systems. Doing this work yourself will significantly save your budget, but requires strict adherence to safety precautions and technology. Incorrect installation can lead to failure of the new part or, in the worst case, to fire.
Before starting any manipulations, you must make sure that the diagnosis is correct. Often, a malfunction of the start relay, thermostat or control module is mistaken for compressor failure. If the unit does require replacement, you will need to prepare the workplace, ensure good ventilation of the room and collect the necessary tools. Remember that working with electricity and flammable gases requires extreme concentration.
Diagnostics of compressor malfunction
Before dismantling the old unit, a thorough check should be carried out. Users often mistakenly believe that the lack of cold is the fault of the motor, while the problem lies in a freon leak or a clogged capillary tube. Compressor it may be in working order, but not start due to a lack of signal from the control board or a burnt-out start relay. Primary diagnostics begins with a visual inspection and listening to the sounds produced by the refrigerator.
If, when you turn it on, you hear a quiet hum, a click, and then die down, this may indicate a jammed mechanism or problems with the electrical part of the engine. In some cases, the motor hums constantly, but does not start, which indicates an interturn short circuit of the windings. For accurate diagnostics, you need to ring the windings with a multimeter and check the resistance. Normal resistance values for different models Indesit may differ, but a break or short circuit will be visible immediately.
⚠️ Attention: If you find that the compressor housing is covered with an oily coating at the place where the tubes are soldered, this indicates a violation of the tightness of the system. In this case, replacing the motor without finding and eliminating the leak will not work.
It is also worth checking the starting relay. This is a small part that fits onto the contact group of the compressor. If traces of burning are visible inside the relay or the plastic case is melted, perhaps replacing it will solve the problem. However, if the relay is working properly and the motor does not start or is overloaded, it is necessary to install a new one unit. Before checking the electrics, do not forget to completely disconnect the refrigerator from the network.
Necessary tools and materials
High-quality repairs are impossible without the appropriate equipment. To replace the compressor on a refrigerator Indesit you will need not only a standard set of screwdrivers and pliers, but also specialized equipment for working with the refrigeration circuit. The main tool will be a burner that can run on propane-butane or MAP gas. Using an open flame requires caution and a fire extinguisher on hand.
A critical element is a nitrogen cylinder with a reducer. Nitrogen is necessary to purge the system and create pressure during soldering, which prevents the formation of oxides inside the copper tubes. Oxides can clog the capillary tube, and then the refrigerator will stop freezing again. You will also need a vacuum pump and a pressure gauge station to monitor pressure and remove moisture from the system.
- 🛠️ Tools: a set of screwdrivers, side cutters, pliers, pipe cutters, pipe cleaners.
- 🔥 Soldering equipment: gas torch, solder (silver or copper-phosphorus), flux.
- 🧪 Vacuuming and filling: vacuum pump, manometric manifold, scales for refilling freon.
Pay special attention to choosing a new one compressor. It must fully comply with the characteristics of the old one: power, type of refrigerant (R134a or R600a), overall dimensions and type of start relay. Using an unsuitable model will result in the refrigerator not operating correctly or the new part quickly failing. The marking is usually applied to a nameplate located on the motor housing.
Removing the old compressor
Process dismantling begins with preparing the work area. Unplug the refrigerator and move it away from the wall, allowing access to the back panel. Remove the protective casing covering the compressor group. In some models Indesit it may be necessary to remove the back wall inside the fridge compartment to access the evaporator if you plan to completely overcook the system.
First of all, you need to bleed off the refrigerant. To do this, cut through the filling tube (usually it has a characteristic bend and is often sealed at one end). If there is freon left in the system, it will come out with a characteristic whistle. After this, cut the suction and discharge tubes, moving 10-15 cm away from the compressor body. This will save the length of the standard tubes for subsequent soldering.
Next, disconnect the electrical wires from the contact group and the start relay. It is recommended to take a photo of the connection diagram before disconnecting it so that when installing a new motor you do not mix up the wires. The compressor is attached to a metal base (pan) using four nuts or bolts. Unscrew them, supporting the heavy unit so that it does not fall and damage nearby tubes.
⚠️ Attention: When cutting tubes, use a sharp pipe cutter, not a hacksaw. The hacksaw leaves metal shavings that will get inside the system and can cause blockage of the filter drier or capillary.
After removing the old compressor, inspect the pan and adjacent tubes for damage. If traces of oil are found, this may indicate a leak. In this case, it is necessary to find and solder all holes before installing new equipment. A clean system is the key to long-term operation of the refrigerator.
Preparation and installation of a new unit
A new compressor is often supplied sealed from the factory; there may be nitrogen inside it under slight pressure. This is done to prevent moisture and air from entering. The original packaging should be opened immediately before installation. Compare the dimensions of the new motor with the old one: if the mounting holes do not match, you may need to make an adapter plate or use rubber shock absorbers of a different shape.
Before soldering, you need to prepare the tubes. Remove the insulation from the ends of the copper tubes, clean them with a brush until shiny and degrease them. Place a new filter drier onto the suction tube of the new compressor. The filter is a disposable element that retains moisture and oil breakdown products, so its replacement is required whenever the system is opened.
Connect the compressor suction tube with the evaporator tube, and the discharge tube with the condenser through a filter drier. Insert the tubes into the compressor nozzles with a small gap (1-2 mm) to distribute the solder evenly. Fix the position of the tubes so that they do not move during soldering. Now you can start soldering the connections.
☑️ Preparation for soldering
When soldering, use the torch flame evenly, heating both elements being connected. Do not point the flame directly at the solder; it should be melted by the heat from the metal of the tubes. When the tubes have warmed up to the desired temperature, bring the solder to the joint - it should flow into the gap under the action of capillary effect. Avoid overheating, which can lead to burning of thin-walled tubes.
Evacuating and charging with refrigerant
After all solder joints have cooled, the system must be purged with nitrogen. This will remove any remaining flux, moisture and air. Connect a nitrogen cylinder through a reducer to the service pipe and create a pressure of about 10-15 atmospheres. Check all seams with soapy water for leaks. If bubbles do not appear, release the nitrogen.
The next critical step is vacuuming. Connect the vacuum pump to the service connection and turn it on. The process of pumping out air should last at least 30-40 minutes. A vacuum is necessary to remove water vapor, which at low temperatures will turn into ice and clog the capillary tube. The residual pressure should be no more than 50 microns.
| Refrigerant type | Marking | Filling pressure (approximate) | Oil type |
|---|---|---|---|
| R134a | Tetrafluoroethane | 0.8 - 1.2 atm | Synthetic (POE) |
| R600a | Isobutane | 0.4 - 0.6 atm | Mineral |
| R12 | Freon (obsolete) | 1.0 - 1.4 atm | Mineral |
Refrigerant charging is carried out strictly according to the weight indicated on the refrigerator nameplate or in technical documentation. Using a weight cylinder is the only correct way. It is better to refill in the liquid phase through a filter-drier (if there is access) or in the gas phase through the service pipe while the compressor is running. Monitor the current consumption of the motor and the temperature of the condenser.
Why can’t you refill “by eye”?
Refilling by pressure without taking into account the ambient temperature and the weight of the refrigerant often leads to improper operation of the refrigerator. An excess of freon increases the pressure and load on the compressor, and a deficiency causes overheating and underfreezing.
Completion of work and testing
After refueling the system and checking the operation of the refrigerator for 1-2 hours, it is necessary to hermetically seal the service pipe. Clamp the tube with a clamp, cut off the excess and solder the end. Make sure the soldering is of good quality and has no pores. Now you can install the protective casing and connect the refrigerator to the network.
On the first day of operation, carefully monitor the cycle of turning the compressor on and off. The refrigerator Indesit should gain temperature and turn off. If the engine runs continuously, check the system for leaks again or make sure the fuel is filled correctly. Also listen to sounds: extraneous knocking or strong vibration may indicate improper fastening or a defect in the new unit.
⚠️ Attention: If you are using flammable refrigerant R600a (isobutane), it is strictly forbidden to plug in the refrigerator until the room is completely ventilated after soldering. A spark in the relay can cause ignition of the gas.
The final step is to check the temperature in the chambers. Load the refrigerator with food or water bottles and leave for 12-24 hours. The temperature in the refrigerator compartment should drop to +4...+5°C, and in the freezer - to -18°C and below. Only after confirmation of stable operation can the system be considered repaired.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to replace a compressor without a vacuum pump?
Theoretically, some craftsmen try to purge the system with freon ("push"), but this is ineffective. Without a vacuum pump, it is impossible to remove moisture from the system, which will lead to the formation of an ice plug in the capillary and failure of the compressor in a short time.
Which compressor is better to install: the original or an analogue?
Original compressors Indesit (often made by Danfoss or Secop) are ideal suitable for fastenings and characteristics. However, high-quality analogues (for example, Aspera, Embraco, Lg) with similar power and type of refrigerant also work perfectly if they are correctly selected according to the installation dimensions.
Why, after replacing the compressor, does the refrigerator freeze only in the freezer?
This is a sign of a clogged capillary tube or insufficient refrigerant filling. Also, the reason may be poor-quality vacuuming, when moisture remains in the system, frozen in a narrow place. The system needs to be rebuilt.
Does the system need to be flushed when replacing a compressor?
Yes, if the old compressor burned out with the release of black oil or acid, flushing the system with nitrogen is mandatory. Otherwise, combustion products will enter the new motor and filter, quickly rendering them inoperable.
How long should the new compressor operate after replacement?
The first cycle of operation can be long (up to several hours) until the refrigerator reaches the set temperature. However, it must be turned off periodically. If the motor runs for days without stopping, this indicates a malfunction in the system or incorrect adjustment of the thermostat.