A sudden stop of the compressor or a characteristic click, after which the refrigerator stops cooling, often indicates a malfunction of the starting mechanism. In two-chamber models, be it the 40 series or more modern modifications, it is responsible for starting the engine and protecting it from overloads. When this small but critical component fails, the refrigerator compartment stops producing cold, and the freezer defrosts, threatening the safety of food. Atlant, be it the 40 series or more modern modifications, namely start relay is responsible for starting the engine and protecting it from overloads. When this small but critical component fails, the refrigerator compartment stops producing cold and the freezer defrosts, threatening the safety of food.
Independent replacement of this element is a real task for a home craftsman who has basic skills in working with tools and electrical circuits. The process does not require sophisticated industrial equipment, but it demands strict adherence to safety precautions and attention to detail. Connection errors can lead to burnout of the compressor windings or even a fire hazard, so before starting work you need to carefully study the design of the unit.
In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm for diagnosing and replacing the relay, consider the differences between the types of starting devices (induction and posistor) and answer frequent questions that arise from equipment owners Atlant. Correctly performed repairs will extend the life of your refrigerator and avoid an expensive call to a repairman.
Symptoms of a faulty start relay
The first sign that starting relay has failed is a characteristic sound. The refrigerator may hum as it tries to start, make a loud clicking noise, and then become silent. The compressor does not start at this moment, although current continues to be supplied to it. If you ignore these signals, the engine may overheat, as it will try to start endlessly until the thermal protection is triggered or a winding breakdown occurs.
Another obvious symptom is the absence of cold in both chambers when the fan is running (if the model is equipped with a No Frost system) or simply when the light inside is on. When you feel the compressor housing, you may notice that it becomes hot, which indicates attempts to start without success. In some cases, the relay may become stuck in the on state, causing the motor to run continuously without shutting off, resulting in deep-freezing of food and icing of the evaporator.
Visual inspection can also provide clues. If you remove the casing and inspect the relay, traces of burning, plastic melting or oxidation of contacts may be visible on it. The presence of black spots or a burning smell on the relay body is unambiguous a signal for its immediate replacement. Sometimes the malfunction is accompanied by periodic blackouts in the apartment if a short circuit occurs in the circuit due to an insulation breakdown inside the unit.
Diagnostics and selection of a new part
Before going to the store for spare parts, you need to accurately determine the type of relay installed in your refrigerator. Atlant relay. In two-chamber models, two types of devices are most often used: induction (with a coil and contact group) and posistor (solid-state, without moving parts). Induction relays were usually installed on older models, while posistor relays are the standard for modern technology due to their reliability and noiselessness.
For diagnostics, you can use a multimeter in dial mode. For a working induction relay, the resistance between the contacts should be zero in a certain position, and for a posistor relay, the resistance of the posistor itself (usually several tens of Ohms) at room temperature. If the device shows a break or, conversely, a short circuit where it should not be, the part requires replacement. It is also important to check the thermal protection relay, which is often included or attached nearby.
When choosing a new spare part, pay attention to the markings. For compressors Atlant relays of the RT, R-1, R-2 series or universal analogues with the corresponding power range are often used. The compressor power is indicated on a nameplate attached to the engine housing. Using a relay with the wrong current range may result in the engine either not starting or running with overload.
It is important to understand that replacing a relay is not always a panacea. If, after installing a new element, the refrigerator behaves the same way, the problem may lie in the compressor itself (interturn short circuit, jamming of the piston group) or in the wiring. However, statistics show that in most cases with the described symptoms, the trigger is the culprit.
Necessary tools and safety measures
Working with electrical appliances requires strict adherence to electrical safety rules. Before starting any manipulations, the refrigerator required must be disconnected from the power supply. Not just turned off by a button, but physically removed from the socket. This eliminates the risk of electric shock, since voltage may remain in the control circuits even when the compressor is not working.
To carry out repairs, you will need a minimum set of tools:
- 🛠️ Screwdriver (cross or flat, depending on the type of screws on the casing).
- 🔧 Pliers or pliers for careful removal of terminals.
- 🔦 Flashlight for illuminating the back wall of the refrigerator.
- 🧤 Dielectric gloves (recommended for additional protection).
- 📸 Smartphone for photographing the connection diagram before disassembling.
It is also recommended to have electrical tape or heat-shrinkable tubing on hand in case you have to restore the integrity of the wire insulation. The workplace should be well lit, and the space around the back wall of the refrigerator should be free of foreign objects.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to touch the metal parts of the compressor or relay with wet hands. Condensation or moisture can become a conductor of current, which is dangerous to life.
Step-by-step instructions for replacing the relay
The replacement process begins with access to the compressor. In two-chamber refrigerators Atlant it is located in the lower rear part of the case. You will need to remove the protective cardboard or plastic cover that covers the engine compartment. Usually it is attached to latches or several screws, which can be easily unscrewed with a regular screwdriver.
After removing the cover, you will see the compressor - a black metal “tank”. At its end (or on the side, depending on the model) there is a plastic box - this is the start relay casing. To remove it, you need to carefully press out the fixing tabs or unscrew the fastening screw, if provided by the design. Be careful: plastic becomes brittle over time and may crack if handled carelessly.
☑️ Checklist before starting replacement
Next comes the most critical stage - dismantling the old relay. It is put directly on the compressor terminals. You need to remove it with a rocking motion, strictly vertically downwards, so as not to damage the copper tubes of the compressor and not to bend the contacts. First disconnect the wires going to the relay. As already mentioned, a photo before disconnecting will help you avoid getting confused during assembly.
Installing a new element is done in the reverse order. Insert the relay onto the compressor pins as far as it will go, making sure it is seated tightly and evenly. Connect the wires according to the photo you took earlier or the markings on the case. If you change an induction relay to a posistor relay (or vice versa), the connection diagram may be different - in this case, be sure to use the instructions that come with the new part.
Connection diagram and technical nuances
Understanding the connection diagram is necessary if the markings on the wires are erased or you are using a universal relay. In a standard circuit, three main wires go to the relay: phase (L), neutral (N) and ground (PE), although the ground can go directly to the frame. Inside the relay, the contacts are distributed between the starting and operating windings of the compressor.
For clarity, consider the typical distribution of contacts for common relay models:
| Contact on the relay | Purpose | Wire color (standard) | Where it is connected |
|---|---|---|---|
| L (Line) | Phase (Input) | Brown / White | From thermostat/board |
| 1 (or S) | Start winding | Black / Red | Upper pin of the compressor |
| 2 (or R) | Working winding | Blue / Green | Bottom pin of the compressor |
| Grounding | Protection | Yellow-green | Compressor housing |
It is important to note that The color marking of the wires may vary depending on the year of manufacture of the refrigerator Atlant and the cable manufacturer. Therefore, you need to focus primarily on the position of the contacts relative to the compressor pins. The working winding has less resistance than the starting winding, which can be checked with a multimeter during diagnostics.
Is it possible to use a relay from another brand?
Yes, you can use universal relays or analogues from other manufacturers (Danfoss, Secop), if their electrical characteristics (current) actuation, power) coincide with the original ones. The main thing is the correct fit on the pins of the compressor and compliance with the connection diagram.
If, after connecting, the refrigerator makes a hum, but does not start, immediately disconnect it from the network. This may mean that the relay does not match the cut-off current or the compressor itself is faulty. Long-term operation in this mode is unacceptable.
Checking operation and possible errors
After installing a new relay and checking all connections, you can turn on the refrigerator to the network. In the first seconds, you can hear a characteristic click - this is the starting mechanics working or the posistor warming up. The compressor should start smoothly, without humming or vibration. After 10-15 minutes, the condenser tubes (at the back or on the sides) should begin to heat up, which indicates the start of refrigerant circulation.
A common mistake during self-repair is poor contact in the terminal block. If the wire is not inserted completely or is oxidized, heating will begin to occur at the connection point, which can lead to melting of the insulation and repeated failure. Always check the tightness of the wire connections.
Another mistake is ignoring the state of the thermal protection relay. It is often paired with a starter and attached to the compressor housing or inserted into a relay. If the thermal relay is "tired", it may turn off the compressor prematurely, even if it is working properly. When replacing the starting relay, it is recommended to also change the thermal one, especially if the old one has traces of heating.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to repair a burnt-out relay by stripping the contacts or gluing the case. This is a temporary measure that does not guarantee safe operation and may result in a fire. Only complete replacement!
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to replace induction relay to a posistor relay in the Atlant refrigerator?
Yes, such a replacement is possible and even desirable, since posistor relays are more reliable. However, you need to make sure that the current rating of the new relay matches the capacity of your compressor. It may be necessary to slightly modify the connection diagram or adapter, since the geometry of the housings may differ.
Why does the refrigerator turn on and off immediately after replacing the relay?
This may indicate several problems: the relay is incorrectly selected (does not hold current), the thermal protection relay is faulty, or, worse, there is an interturn short circuit in the compressor windings. It is also worth checking the thermostat - if it is faulty, it may not give a command for long-term operation.
Where to find the relay markings if they are erased?
If the markings on the relay itself are not readable, look for information on the compressor nameplate. The engine model and its power are indicated there. Based on the compressor model (for example, SKN 100, SKN 140), it is easy to find a compatibility table with starting relays on the Internet.
Is it dangerous to change the relay yourself if the refrigerator is under warranty?
Yes, this is dangerous in terms of losing the warranty. Any interference with the electrical circuit and breaking of seals (if there are any on the relay casing) will void the manufacturer’s warranty. In this case, it is better to contact an authorized service center.
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics and design of components may vary slightly depending on the specific modification of the refrigerator. Always check the technical documentation of your model before purchasing spare parts.