If your refrigerator Samsung with the system No Frost stopped freezing, ice appeared on the back wall or displays an error d5 on the display - with a 90% probability the burnt one is to blame Defrost heating element. This malfunction is typical for models RB37J5230SA, RL4362FBASL and other lines with automatic defrosting. Replacing a heater is a task of average complexity that you can do yourself, saving 3-5 thousand rubles on calling a technician.
In this article you will find step-by-step instructions with photos, connection diagrams, a list of tools and unique tips for diagnosing heating elements without a multimeter. We will also look at what errors lead to repeated failure of the part and how to avoid them.
⚠️ Important: If your refrigerator is under warranty, self-repair will void it. Check the warranty period in the documents or through the service Samsung Members before starting work.
Signs of a faulty heating element in a Samsung refrigerator
TEN (tubular electric heater) in systems No Frost responsible for thawing frost on the evaporator. When it fails, the refrigerator begins to work intermittently. Here are the key symptoms:
- 🔴 Error d5 or
22Eon the display (defrost system fault code) - ❄️ Ice freezing on the back wall of the freezer (even with the fan running)
- 🌡️ Increasing the temperature in the refrigerator compartment to +10...+15°C
- 🔊 Increased compressor operation without pauses (trying to compensate for the lack of cold)
- 💧 Puddles of water under the refrigerator (melting ice that does not have time to drain away)
If you observe at least 2-3 signs from the list, the probability of a problem with the heating element is 80-90%. For an accurate diagnosis you will need test the circuit with a multimeter or visually inspect the heater for breakage/blackening.
⚠️ Attention: Error d5 may also indicate a malfunction defrost sensor or timer. If after replacing the heating element the problem persists, check these elements.
What tools and spare parts will be needed
To replace the heating element in the refrigerator Samsung prepare:
- 🔧 Screwdrivers: Phillips (PH2) and flat (3–4 mm)
- 📏 Multimeter (for checking the circuit)
- 🔥 Soldering iron (power 40–60 W) + solder with rosin
- 🧰 Pliers and wire cutters
- 🧴 Heat-shrink tube (diameter 4–6 mm)
- 🔌 New heating element (article depends on the refrigerator model)
Articles of the original ones Heating elements for popular models Samsung:
| Refrigerator model | Heating element article number | Power, W | Approximate price, ₽ |
|---|---|---|---|
| RB37J5230SA, RB37J5230SS | DA97-08007A | 120–150 | 1 200–1 800 |
| RL4362FBASL, RL4362FBASL | DA97-08007B | 180 | 1 500–2 200 |
| RL38TEDBS, RL38TEDBS1 | DA97-08007C | 200 | 1 800–2 500 |
| RB29FERNCSS, RB29FERNDSS | DA97-08007D | 100 | 900–1 400 |
💡 Tip: Before purchasing a heating element, check its article number by sticker on the heater itself (it is visible after removing the back panel of the freezer). An alternative is to use the service for selecting spare parts Samsung Parts according to the refrigerator model.
Preparing the refrigerator for repair
Before replacing the heating element, you must properly prepare the refrigerator to avoid damage and injury:
- Unplug the refrigerator and remove the plug from the socket. Let it stand for 10–15 minutes - this will discharge the capacitors.
- Defrost the freezer compartment. If there is ice on the back wall, remove it with a plastic spatula (do not use metal objects!).
- Remove shelves and drawers from the freezer compartment. Remove the products - the repair will take 1-2 hours.
- Prepare the work area. Lay cardboard or fabric on the floor to avoid scratching the coating.
⚠️ Attention: If the refrigerator has a system Twin Cooling Plus (double cooling circuits), disconnect both compressors from the mains. Otherwise, you risk getting an electric shock when working with electricians.
🔧 Useful life hack: Take a photo of the location of the wires and terminals on the heating element before disconnecting. This will simplify reassembly.
Unplugged|Thawed|Shelves and drawers removed|Photo of wiring taken|Tools prepared-->
Step-by-step instructions for replacing the heating element
The heater replacement algorithm is the same for most models Samsung No Frost. Let's look at the process using the example of a refrigerator RB37J5230SA:
Step 1: Removing the rear panel of the freezer
Unscrew 4-6 screws with a Phillips screwdriver that hold the plastic panel on the back wall. Carefully remove it by pulling it towards you. Under the panel you will see an evaporator, a fan and a heating element (a tube with wires attached to the bottom of the evaporator).
Step 2: Disconnecting the wires
Using a flat-head screwdriver, carefully press the terminal clamps and remove the wires from the contacts of the heating element. Remember or mark with a marker their location (usually from left to right: phase, neutral, ground). If the wires are soldered, cut them with wire cutters, leaving a margin of 10–15 mm for new soldering.
How to distinguish a phase from zero without a multimeter?
In Samsung refrigerators, the phase wire usually has brown or red insulation, zero - blue, grounding - yellow-green. But it’s better to double-check with a multimeter in “continuity” mode (200 Ohm) after disconnecting from the network.
Step 3: Dismantling the old Heating element
The heating element is attached to the evaporator using 2-3 metal brackets or plastic clips. Pry them off with a screwdriver and remove the heater. If the brackets are rusty, cut them off with wire cutters (new ones come with the heating element).
⚠️ Attention: Do not force yourself to remove the heating element - its tube may burst, and the fragments will damage the evaporator. If the heater is stuck, treat the joints with WD-40 and wait 5–10 minutes.
Step 4: Installing a new heating element
Place the new heater in place of the old one and secure it with staples. Connect the wires in the same sequence (use the photo taken earlier). If soldering is required:
- Strip the wires by 5–7 mm.
- Apply solder to the contacts of the heating element.
- Put the heat shrink tube over the soldering area and warm it with a hairdryer or lighter.
Step 5: Checking and assembly
Make sure that:
- 🔌 All wires are connected tightly (no backlash).
- 🔧 The heating element mounts do not touch the fan blades.
- 💧 There are no leaks of water or condensation on the contacts.
Close the back panel, tighten the screws and connect the refrigerator to the network.
How to check the heating element with a multimeter (3 ways)
If you are not sure that the heating element is burnt out, carry out diagnostics before replacing. Here are three verification methods:
1. Continuity test
Transfer the multimeter to resistance measurement mode (200 Ohm). Connect the probes to the contacts of the heating element:
- 🔹 If resistance 0 Ohm —short circuit (heating element is faulty).
- 🔹 If 1 (infinity) —open circuit (replacement required).
- 🔹 Normal resistance for heating element Samsung: 20–60 Ohm (depending on power).
2. Checking for insulation breakdown
Switch the multimeter to the "continuity" mode (diode icon). Connect one probe to the contact of the heating element, the second to the metal body of the heater:
- 🔹 If the device beeps, there is an insulation breakdown (dangerous for operation!).
- 🔹 Silence of the multimeter - the insulation is normal.
3. Visual inspection
Signs of a burnt heating element:
- 🔥 Blackened or melted sections of the tube.
- 💥 Swelling or cracks on the body.
- 🌡️ Strong overheating when connected to the network for a short time (caution - risk of burns!).
💡 Tip: If you don’t have a multimeter at hand, you can check the heating element using batteries and light bulbs. Connect a light bulb (3–6 V) in series with the heating element to the battery. If the light does not light, the circuit is open.
Common mistakes when replacing a heating element and how to avoid them
Even experienced craftsmen make mistakes that lead to repeated failure of the heating element. Here are the most common:
- ⚡ Incorrect soldering of wires → cold contact, overheating, break. Solution: Use active flux (for example, FIM) and heat the soldering area for at least 3-5 seconds.
- 🔌 Mixed wires → short circuit or inoperative heater. Solution: Always take photographs of the original connection.
- 🌡️ Ignoring the defrost sensor → The heating element turns on randomly or does not turn off. Solution: Check the sensor (resistance at +20°C: 4–6 kOhm).
- 🔧 Damage to the evaporator when dismantling the heating element → freon leak. Solution: Remove the brackets carefully, without jerking.
- 💧 Moisture on the contacts → corrosion, short circuit. Solution: Dry all parts with a hairdryer before assembly.
⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the heating element the refrigerator Samsung starts make more noise or vibrate, check the fan mounting. Perhaps during assembly you shifted its blades and they touch the heating element.
How much does it cost to replace the heating element in a service center
The price of repairs in official and unofficial services varies depending on the region and model of the refrigerator. Current tariffs for 2026:
| Type of service | Cost of work, ₽ | Cost of heating element, ₽ | Total, ₽ | Warranty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Official service Samsung | 3 500–5 000 | 1 200–2 500 | 4 700–7 500 | 12 months |
| Unofficial service | 2 000–3 500 | 900–1 800 | 2 900–5 300 | 3–6 months |
| Private master (departure) | 1 500–2 500 | 1 000–2 000 | 2 500–4 500 | 1–3 months |
| Independent repair | 0 | 900–2 500 | 900–2 500 | — |
💰 Is it more profitable to repair it yourself? Yes, if you have tools and experience working with electrical equipment. The savings will be 2,000–5,000 rubles. However, if the refrigerator is under warranty or you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to contact the service.
⚠️ Attention: Prices for spare parts and labor may vary depending on the dollar exchange rate and the region. Check current tariffs on the websites of service centers or by phone.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing the heating element in a Samsung refrigerator
Is it possible to replace the heating element without soldering?
Yes, if in yours models Samsung use detachable terminals (for example, in refrigerators of the RL 2018–2022 series). In this case, it is enough to disconnect the old terminals and connect new ones. However, in 70% of models, the wires are soldered, and soldering is inevitable.
How often do you need to change the heating element in a No Frost refrigerator?
The average service life of the heating element is 5–7 years. If the refrigerator is used intensively (frequently opening the door, high humidity), the heater may fail after 3–4 years. Regular defrosting (once every 6 months) prolongs the life of the heating element.
What to do if after replacing the heating element the refrigerator does not freeze?
The reasons may be as follows:
- Faulty defrost sensor (check the resistance).
- Failed defrost timer or electronic module.
- Damaged evaporator (freon leak).
- Wires are incorrectly connected to the heating element.
Diagnose the elements in order, starting with the most simple.
Can I use heating elements from another Samsung model?
Only if they match:
- 🔌 Power (deviation ±10 W is acceptable).
- 📏 Dimensions (length and diameter tubes).
- 🔧 Mounting type (staples or clips).
For example, a heating element from RB37J5230SA (DA97-08007A) will do for RB37J5230SS, but not for RL4362FBASL (the latter has a different power).
How to extend the life of the heating element after replacement?
Follow these recommendations:
- 🧊 Defrost the refrigerator every 6 months (even if the system is No Frost).
- 🚪 Do not keep the door open for more than 1-2 minutes.
- 🌡️ Set the temperature in the freezer to -18°C (not lower!).
- 🔌 Use voltage stabilizer (Heating elements are sensitive to surges).