Buying a new refrigerator is always stressful, associated not only with choosing a model, but also with logistics. It often happens that beautiful and functional equipment simply does not fit into the doorway or does not fit into the prepared niche because of a couple of extra centimeters. That is why the question of how to measure the size of a refrigerator becomes critically important even before paying for the goods in the store.
Incorrectly taken measurements can lead to the fact that you will have to return expensive equipment, waste time on an exchange, or, even worse, call specialists to dismantle the door frames. To avoid such situations, it is necessary to approach the measurement process with professional accuracy, taking into account not only the dimensions of the unit itself, but also the space required for its safe operation.
In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions that will help you avoid mistakes. You will learn what tools you will need, where exactly to take measurements, and why manufacturers' technical data sheets do not always reflect the actual dimensions of the device during transportation.
Preparation of tools and workspace
Before taking active steps, you need to acquire the right tools. A regular school ruler will not be enough here, as it is too short and flexible. The ideal solution would be construction tape at least 3 meters long with a rigid tape, which allows you to take measurements by weight without sagging.
You will also need a notepad or smartphone to record the results. Write down all the data at once, without relying on memory, as the numbers can quickly get mixed up. If you plan to build in appliances, also prepare a level to check the levelness of the floor at the installation site.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use soft sewing centimeters to measure the width of doorways. The fabric can stretch or sag, which will give an error of 1-2 cm, which will become fatal if the equipment skids.
Clean the area of intended installation from foreign objects. If you are measuring an old refrigerator before replacing it, make sure it is unplugged and defrosted. This is important not only for safety, but also for the accuracy of measurements, since ice on the evaporator can visually increase the dimensions of the housing.
Measuring height: taking into account technical gaps
Height is the first parameter that catches your eye, but it is with it that problems most often arise when installing under a countertop or in a cabinet niche. You need to measure the distance from the floor to the upper limiter. It is important to understand that technical height the refrigerator may differ from the decorative one.
When measuring the height, be sure to take into account the need for a ventilation gap. The compressor and condenser produce heat that has to go somewhere. If you install the unit close to the ceiling of a niche, it will overheat and quickly fail.
Manufacturers usually indicate in the documentation minimum distance to the ceilingwhich ranges from 5 to 10 cm. However, when measuring the place, it is better to focus on the actual conditions of your room. If you have a suspended ceiling, add a margin so that the heat flow does not damage the film.
If you plan to place the refrigerator under the countertop, measure the distance from the floor to the bottom of the countertop at several points. The floor may be uneven and the gap will be larger in one corner and smaller in another. You need to focus on the minimum value.
Measuring the width and depth of the case
Width and depth are parameters that determine how harmoniously the refrigerator will fit into the interior and whether it will protrude beyond the kitchen unit. Width measurements should be taken at the widest part of the body. Often this is the top part where the compressor unit is located, or protruding handles.
The depth is measured from the back wall to the most protruding point in the front. Here lies the main catch: many forget to take into account handlesthe door hinges or the convexities of the rear wall where the heat exchangers are located. If you only measure the metal frame, you risk getting appliances that will interfere with the opening of adjacent cabinets.
For built-in models, it is critical to measure the internal width of the niche. Standard values often do not coincide with real ones. For example, a niche 60 cm wide may actually turn out to be 59 cm due to the thickness of the chipboard or uneven walls.
The influence of hinges on the dimensions
For most refrigerators, door hinges add 1 to 3 cm to the total width on each side. When measuring the niche, be sure to take this protrusion into account, otherwise the refrigerator door may rest against the cabinet wall and not open completely.
Use a level to check if the floor at the installation site is blocked. If the floor is sloped, a refrigerator placed on it may tilt and its actual width or depth as projected will change. In such cases, alignment of the supports may be necessary.
Critical measurements of door openings
The most common mistake buyers make is to measure only the refrigerator itself, forgetting how it will fit through the doors. A doorway is a narrow neck that dictates its own conditions. It is necessary to measure not only the width and height of the opening, but the thickness of the door leaf together with the platbands.
The width of the opening is measured between the inner edges of the platbands. If you have metal doors with thresholds, be sure to measure the height from the floor to the top rail. Thresholds often become an insurmountable obstacle for the wheels of the trolley.
Don't forget about the diagonal. In some cases, especially in older houses with narrow corridors, the refrigerator has to be brought in at an angle. Measure the diagonal of the opening and compare it with the diagonal of the refrigerator (usually this is the height, since it is the longest side).
| Parameter | What we are measuring | Important nuance |
|---|---|---|
| Width of the opening | Between the platbands | Subtract 2-3 cm for maneuver |
| Height of the opening | From the floor to the lintel | Take into account the height of the trolley wheels |
| Depth corridor | Length of the path to the kitchen | Check turns at 90 degrees |
| Elevator width | Internal dimensions | The diagonal of the elevator floor is more important than the width |
If you live in an apartment building, be sure to measure the dimensions of the elevator. It often happens that you can bring a refrigerator into an apartment, but you can’t take the old one out of the entrance. In such cases, the height of the ceilings in the elevator car can be a decisive factor for installing the unit vertically or horizontally.
☑️ Checking the route
Nuances for built-in equipment
Embedded equipment requires pinpoint accuracy of measurements. Here you cannot rely on standard sizes, since kitchen facades and niches are often made according to individual projects. Basic rule: the dimensions of the niche should be larger than the dimensions of the refrigerator.
Pay attention to the facade fastening system. There are systems sliding guides and rigid fastening. This determines how much the facade will “eat up” the usable space of the opening when the door is opened. When measuring the width of a niche, you need to take into account the thickness of the facade and the gap for its movement.
⚠️ Attention: When ordering a kitchen and choosing a built-in refrigerator, check the drawings of the niche with the technical data sheet of the specific model. Even within the same brand, niches for different models may differ by several millimeters.
It is also important to provide access to ventilation grilles. Built-in refrigerators are cooled through the front or special channels in the base and top of the cabinet. If you make a mistake with the depth of the niche and push the unit too deep, blocking air access, it will work for wear.
Door dismantling and transportation
If measurements show that the refrigerator does not fit into the doorway widthwise, do not rush refuse the purchase. Most modern models provide the possibility removing the doors. This allows you to reduce the width of the body by 10-15 cm.
However, it is worth remembering that even with the doors removed, the refrigerator may not fit due to the thickness of the thermal insulation of the side walls or protruding structural elements. In addition, removing doors requires certain skills and tools, such as socket wrenches and screwdrivers.
When transporting, it is important to observe orientation. Most manufacturers only allow refrigerators to be transported in an upright position. An inclination of more than 40 degrees can lead to oil flowing from the compressor into the refrigerant circulation system, which will cause a breakdown upon first start-up.
24-hour rule
If the refrigerator had to be transported lying down, it must be kept in an upright position at room temperature for at least 24 hours before turning it on. This is necessary so that the oil flows back into the compressor.
Always check for removable handles. On some models, especially retro styles, the handles are not removable and add significant depth. Their presence must be taken into account when planning the path of movement of equipment around the apartment.
Frequent errors when measuring
One of the most common mistakes is ignoring skirting boards. The baseboard “eats” a few centimeters against the wall, and if you measure the depth of the niche from the wall without taking it into account, the refrigerator may not fit flush. It is best to temporarily dismantle the baseboard at the installation site or take into account its thickness.
Also often forgotten about the ventilation holes in the back. If you place the refrigerator in a niche whose back wall is blank, the distance to it should be increased. Some models require a back clearance of up to 10 cm, unless there is a special grille for air outlet.
Misunderstood designations in catalogs also lead to problems. For example, the width of 60 cm is often specified without taking into account the handles, and the depth without taking into account the projection of the rear part. Always look for the “Overall Dimensions” or “Dimensions” section in the documentation, and not just “Usable Volume.”
What to do if the refrigerator is 1 cm larger than the opening?
If the difference is minimal (1-2 cm), sometimes removing the door handles or dismantling the refrigerator doors themselves helps. You can also try to carefully remove the trim from the doorway if they are in the way. As a last resort, for built-in appliances, you can slightly expand the niche if the wall material allows it (for example, plasterboard or a non-load-bearing partition).
Is it possible to cut off the thermal insulation so that the refrigerator fits in?
Absolutely not. Thermal insulation is a layer of polyurethane foam that keeps the cold in. Damage to it will cause the compressor to run continuously trying to maintain the temperature, causing it to burn out and cause huge electricity bills. In addition, the tightness of the circuit will be broken.
How to measure a refrigerator if it is already in the kitchen?
If you need to find out the dimensions of a standing refrigerator, use a tape measure with a rigid beginning. To measure the depth taking into account the handles, place a flat object (for example, a book or level) at the front, rest it against the most protruding point of the handle, and measure the distance from the object to the wall. For width - similarly, applying the object to the side convexities.
Does the type of floor covering affect the measurements?
Yes, it does. If you have thick linoleum, carpet or tiles with a high layer of adhesive, the floor height may vary from room to room. When moving the refrigerator from the hallway (where, for example, there is concrete) to the kitchen (where there is a warm floor or thick tiles), the height of the unit relative to the ceiling may change. Always “link” to the highest floor level in the passage area.
Do you need to take into account the opening of the refrigerator doors in the niche?
Yes, this is critically important. If the refrigerator is in a niche, the door must open more than 90 degrees to allow shelves and drawers to be removed. For many models, the hinges are designed in such a way that when installed flush against the wall, the door only opens 90 degrees, and the drawers get stuck. Look for models with hinges that allow you to open the door wider, or leave a gap between the refrigerator and the wall of the niche.