A sudden stop of the compressor or its characteristic hum followed by a click often indicates a failure of the starting mechanism. For owners of household appliances Atlant independent replacement of this unit is one of the most affordable ways to return the unit to operation without calling a technician. Start relay is responsible for supplying voltage to the motor windings at the time of start, and its malfunction blocks the start of the entire cooling cycle.
Before you start disassembling, you need to make sure that the problem lies precisely in the electrical part of the compressor, and not in the thermostat or wiring. Correct diagnosis will allow you to avoid purchasing unnecessary parts and save time. In this article, we will analyze in detail the process of dismantling the old element and installing a new one, paying special attention to the safety and nuances of connecting various modifications.
It is worth noting that modern models and older versions of refrigerators can be equipped with different types of protective and starting devices. Understanding the operating principle of electromagnetic or an induction relay will help you avoid mistakes during installation. Negligence in this matter can lead to re-burning of the part or, worse, to damage to the windings of the compressor itself.
⚠️ Attention: Any work on replacing electrical components should be carried out only after the refrigerator has been completely disconnected from the power supply. Residual voltage in the capacitors or accidental insertion of the plug into the socket during disassembly can lead to serious electric shock.
Diagnosing a faulty starting relay
The first sign that start-up protection device has failed is the absence of the characteristic sound of the compressor starting. Instead of a steady hum, you can only hear a short click, after which the motor stops, and after a while the attempt is repeated. This cyclicity indicates that the current required for starting does not pass through the circuit of windings due to broken contacts inside the relay.
Another symptom may be a situation when the compressor operates continuously without turning off, but the temperature in the chambers does not drop to the required values. This often happens when the contacts inside the relay “stick” in the closed position, and the device does not open the starting winding circuit after the engine reaches operating speed. As a result, starting winding overheats, which can cause a fire or failure of the motor itself.
For final inspection, the part must be removed from the housing. A visual inspection often reveals traces of soot, melted plastic or blackened contacts. If there is no external damage, you can gently shake the relay near your ear: the presence of a rattling sound indicates that the core or contacts inside are dangling and not performing their function. A working device should be solid and quiet.
Necessary tools and safety measures
Replacing the relay on the refrigerator Atlant does not require sophisticated professional equipment, but a minimum set of tools must be prepared. You'll need a flathead screwdriver to remove the guards, and perhaps some pliers to gently remove the terminals if they're too tight. Also, a multimeter for preliminary testing of the circuit will not be superfluous, although in an emergency you can do without it, relying on visual signs.
Particular attention should be paid to the organization of the workplace. The refrigerator must be moved away from the wall, allowing access to the rear of the unit from all sides. If the floor is slippery or cold, place a mat to help you work comfortably in the lower position. Remember that the compressor may be hot while operating, so allow the equipment to cool for 15-20 minutes after the last start.
When working with electrical contacts, it is important to avoid getting moisture on exposed wiring areas. Even a minimal amount of water can cause a short circuit when first turned on. Carry out all manipulations with dry hands and use tools with insulated handles. If you find that the wires have melted or the insulation is broken, they must be cleaned and re-insulated before connecting the new part.
Removing the old protective device
The removal process begins by removing the protective plastic cover located at the bottom of the rear wall of the refrigerator. It is usually secured with latches or screws that need to be carefully unscrewed. By removing the casing, you will gain access to the compressor, where in the lower part, on the side or bottom, the desired device in a black or white plastic case is fixed.
The relay is fixed on three pins extending from the compressor housing, and can additionally be secured with a metal bracket or clamp. Carefully remove the retaining bracket, if present, and pull the device towards you. Do not use excessive force: if the relay does not come off, check to see if any tube or wire is in the way. A sharp jerk can damage the compressor outlet pipes or break the suitable wires.
After removing the housing from the pins, it is necessary to disconnect the wires. They connect to the relay through detachable terminals. Pinch the base of the terminal with pliers or your fingers and gently pull it away from the relay pin. If the terminals are oxidized and cannot be removed, you can slightly warm them with a hairdryer or use a contact cleaner, but under no circumstances rip them off by force so as not to damage the wire insulation.
☑️ Procedure for dismantling
Connection diagram and installation of a new relay
Installing a new element requires care, since incorrect connection will lead to instant failure of the new part. On the body of each relay there is a marking indicating which contact corresponds to the starting winding, which is the main winding, and which is the ground. Typically the designations L (Line), S (Start) or R (Run) are used. It is important to strictly observe the orientation: the relay must be installed in the same position in which the old one was removed.
The connection is made in the reverse order of dismantling. First, we put the wire terminals on the corresponding pins of the new relay until a characteristic click is heard. Make sure the connection is tight and not loose. Then carefully place the relay housing on the three pins of the compressor. The movement must be progressive, without distortions, so as not to bend the contacts inside the device.
After installing the relay in place, it is necessary to secure it with a metal bracket or clamp, if the design provides for this. Lack of fixation can lead to vibration and detachment of contacts during compressor operation. Check that the wires do not touch the hot parts of the compressor or piping device, as this may lead to melting of the insulation.
⚠️ Attention: On some relay models Atlant the contacts may not be located symmetrically. If you confuse the starting and operating windings, the compressor either will not start or will hum and overheat, which will lead to its combustion in a matter of minutes.
What to do if the new relay does not fit in size?
Sometimes the manufacturer changes component suppliers, and the new part may differ in the shape of the body from the original. If the landing pins match, and the body is slightly wider or narrower, you can carefully file it in places where it rests on adjacent elements, or use an adapter frame if it was included in the kit. The main thing is to ensure reliable contact on the compressor pins and the absence of vibration.
Relay compatibility table for different models
Refrigerators Atlant have been produced for several decades, and during this time various types of compressors and, accordingly, various relays have been used. The most common devices are the RT, RTK series and more modern electronic analogues. Below is a table to help you navigate compatibility, but always check the markings on your specific part.
| Relay model | Compressor type | Power, W | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| RTK-1 | Single-phase | up to 150 | Old model, requires precise orientation |
| RTK-2 | Single-phase | up to 180 | Analogue of RTK-1, modified body shape |
| R-3 | Single-phase | up to 200 | Often found in models of the 90s |
| 100N001 | Single-phase | up to 130 | Modern standard for many models Atlant |
When purchasing a new part, pay attention not only to the model, but also to the rated current. If you install a relay with a lower current, it will constantly turn off the compressor, thinking that there is an overload. If it is large, it may not turn off the starting winding in time, which will lead to its burning. Rated current usually stamped on the case next to the model marking.
Checking operation after replacement
After all connections are made and verified, you can start testing. Do not rush to close the back panel immediately: leave access to the compressor open so that in case of unusual sounds or sparking you can immediately turn off the device. Plug in the refrigerator and listen.
The startup should happen almost immediately or after a few seconds (if there is a delay in the electronics). You will hear a characteristic click of the relay turning on, then a smooth hum of the motor. After some time, when the engine picks up speed, a second, quieter click should be heard - this is the starting winding that has turned off. If the hum is smooth and the vibration is moderate, it means connection diagram it is assembled correctly.
During the first 10-15 minutes of operation, periodically touch the body of the new relay. It may become slightly warm, but should not be so hot that it hurts to touch. If the relay gets hot, immediately turn off the refrigerator and double-check the correct model and correct connection of the contacts. Also check the voltage in the network: with strong surges, the relay may not work correctly.
Frequent errors and ways to eliminate them
One of the most common mistakes is ignoring the state of the capacitor, which is often paired with a starting relay. If the capacitor is swollen or has lost capacity, the new relay will work in extreme mode and quickly fail. Always check the capacitor for swelling and, if possible, measure its capacitance with a multimeter.
Another mistake is installing a relay “as it happens” without taking into account the markings of the contacts. In a hurry, users may not notice that the pins on the new relay are mirrored in relation to the old one. This leads to the operating voltage being constantly supplied to the starting winding, which is guaranteed to damage the motor. Always check the diagram on the case.
It is also worth mentioning the problem of poor contact in the terminals. If you just put the terminals on but don't make sure they're a tight fit, heat will start to build up at the connection. Over time, the plastic will melt and the contact will disappear or a short circuit will occur. For a reliable connection, you can lightly crimp the terminals with pliers before installation.
⚠️ Attention: Technical specifications and contact locations may vary depending on the year of manufacture of the refrigerator and the batch of components. Always check the markings on the new relay with the data on the nameplate of the compressor or old device before final installation.
Questions and answers
Is it possible to install a relay from another manufacturer, for example, Danifoss or Indesit, on an Atlant refrigerator?
Yes, this is possible if the mounting dimensions, contact locations and, most importantly, match the main thing is the electrical characteristics (operation current and power). However, it is better to use original components or their direct analogues, since in “non-native” relays the delay time for turning off the starting winding may differ, which will affect the life of the compressor.
Why does a new relay burn out a few days after installation?
There may be several reasons: the compressor itself is faulty (interturn short circuit of the windings), voltage surges in the network, the relay current rating is incorrectly selected or poor contact in the terminal block. Also often to blame is a faulty capacitor, which creates an incorrect phase shift and overloads the system.
How to distinguish a starting relay from a thermal one?
In modern refrigerators Atlant these two elements are often combined into one housing, which is called a starting relay. If they are separated, then the starting relay usually has smaller dimensions and is mounted on the side, and the thermal (protective) relay is placed directly on the compressor housing or has the form of a tablet with two contacts. The thermal relay reacts to heat, the starting relay reacts to current and time.
Is it necessary to change the capacitor when replacing the relay?
There is no strict rule, but experts recommend changing the capacitor prophylactically if it lasts more than 5-7 years. Its cost is low, and failure can lead to repeated breakdown of the expensive relay or damage to the compressor windings. A visually serviceable capacitor should not have swelling or traces of electrolyte.
What to do if, after replacing the relay, the refrigerator starts to operate louder?
Increased noise may be due to vibration of the new relay if it is poorly secured with a bracket. Check the fastening. If the noise is coming from the compressor itself (metallic clanging or humming), a relay may have been installed with the wrong rating and the compressor is not operating normally. In this case, it is better to stop operation until the reasons are clarified.