How to properly disassemble a refrigerator compressor

A malfunction of the heart of the refrigeration system - compressor - often causes a complete stop in the operation of a household appliance. If you hear a hum, but there is no cold, or the unit is completely silent, the problem may lie in the motor. In such situations, the technician is faced with the question of dismantling the unit for further diagnostics or replacement.

The process of removing the unit requires not only technical skill, but also strict adherence to safety measures, since the work is carried out with electricity and refrigerant. Incorrect actions can lead to injury or permanent equipment failure. Therefore, it is important to prepare the workplace in advance and study the sequence of operations.

In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions, the necessary tools and the nuances that arise when working with different types of motors. You will learn how to avoid common mistakes and what to do with leftover freon.

Necessary tools and safety measures

Before starting any work on disassembling the compressor you need to make sure that you have a full set of tools. Lack of the necessary device can lead to damage to copper tubes or breakage of threads on fasteners. The basic set includes screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead), pliers, wire cutters and, preferably, a specialized wrench for unscrewing the nuts.

Particular attention should be paid to personal protective equipment. If the refrigerant is under pressure in the system, if it is suddenly released, it can cause frostbite to the skin or damage the mucous membranes of the eyes. In addition, the oil contained in the compressor is toxic when heated and in contact with skin.

⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. Do not rely solely on the thermostat - unplug it from the socket to eliminate the risk of electric shock if the wire insulation is accidentally damaged.

You will need a wide-mouth container to collect residual refrigerant and oil. If you plan to simply replace the unit rather than repair it, having pipe cutter will be a huge advantage, as it allows you to make an even cut without the formation of metal shavings.

• 🛠️ A set of screwdrivers of different sizes and shapes for dismantling casings.
• 🔧 An adjustable wrench or a set of open-end wrenches for fastening nuts.
• 🧤 Protective gloves and glasses to prevent injuries.
• 🗑️ A container for draining technical oil and collecting freon.

It is better to carry out work in a well-ventilated area indoors. Although inert gases are not poisonous in small quantities, their displacement of oxygen in a confined space is undesirable. Also make sure that the floor is covered with absorbent material in case of oil spills.

Preparing the refrigerator for dismantling

The first stage is to free access to the rear of the unit. Most modern models have a compressor located in the lower niche, covered with a decorative panel. To remove it, it is usually enough to unscrew a few screws or simply slide the cover if it is held on by latches.

After removing the panel, you will have a view of the motor-compressor, the capacitor grille and the start-up relay. At this stage, it is important not to jerk the wires and tubes sharply. Allow the unit to cool completely if it has been used recently, as the temperature of the metal parts may be high.

If there is food left in the refrigerator, it must be removed. During the dismantling process, the doors may remain open for a long time, which will lead to damage to the contents of the chambers. It is also worth preparing a stable support if you need to lift the device body for better access.

Inspect the back wall for visible damage to the wire insulation or corrosion of metal elements. If traces of rust are found on the fastener, it is better to treat them with a penetrating lubricant (for example, WD-40) 10-15 minutes before unscrewing. This will greatly facilitate the process and reduce the risk of breakage of bolts.

Disconnecting electrical circuits and relays

The next step is to disconnect the electrical part. On the compressor housing there is a starting and thermal relay, as well as a capacitor (if it is remote). These elements are placed directly on the contact group of the motor. They must be removed carefully, without excessive force, so as not to crumble the plastic.

Before removing the relay, it is recommended to photograph the wiring diagram. Although connectors are often uniquely shaped, wire color coding may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. The photo will help you connect the new unit correctly or put the unit back together.

Use pliers or a screwdriver to lightly pry the terminal clamps if they are too tight. Sharp jerks can lead to breakage of wires inside the insulation, which will require additional soldering and restoration of the circuit.

• 📸 Take a photo of the connection before disconnecting the contacts.
• 🔌 Carefully remove the start relay housing by pulling it down.
• 🔍 Inspect the contacts for carbon deposits or melting.
• 🧹 If necessary, clean the contacts with fine sandpaper.

In some refrigerator models Indesit or Atlant the wires can be additionally secured with plastic clamps or clips on the body. They need to be carefully cut or snapped off. Do not leave dangling wires that could get caught in moving parts or heated surfaces.

Draining the oil and bleeding the refrigerant

This is the most critical point that requires caution. Freon circulates in the system, which is under pressure. You can’t just bite through the pipes - the gas will come out with a characteristic whistle, taking droplets of oil with it. The professional approach requires the use of a sampler or vacuum pump, but at home, a controlled puncture method is often used.

To minimize blowout, find the highest point on the copper tubing (usually the discharge connection). Carefully file the tube without cutting all the way through. Then, with a sharp but precise movement, pierce the remaining jumper with a thin awl or needle, immediately directing the hole into the prepared container or rag.

⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to use open fire near the gas outlet. Although modern freons are not flammable, upon contact with an open flame they can form toxic compounds.

After the main pressure is released, you can proceed to draining the oil. The compressor contains from 200 to 400 ml of oil, which when tilted or punctured in the lower part of the housing will begin to flow out. Place a wide container under the bottom of the unit.

Where to put the used oil?

Technical oil from the compressor should not be poured into the sewer or soil. It must be collected in a sealed container and taken to a special hazardous waste collection point or transferred to a service center.

To completely empty the internal cavity, the compressor sometimes has to be tilted in different directions. Be prepared that the process may take some time, as the viscosity of the oil is quite high. Take your time so as not to stain the floor and clothes.

Removing copper pipes and fasteners

After the system is depressurized and the pressure has been released, you can begin cutting the copper pipes. It is best to use a special pipe cutter that gives an even cut without burrs. If it is not there, sharp metal nippers will do, but then the ends will have to be cleaned.

Step back from the compressor housing about 10-15 centimeters and cut the suction and discharge tubes. The capillary tube (thin) should be cut last, as it is the most fragile. Try not to deform the remaining ends if you plan to use them to connect to the new motor.

Now you need to unscrew the mounting bolts holding the compressor to the frame. There are usually four of them and they are equipped with rubber damper bushings. These bushings dampen vibration, so when installing a new unit, they need to be rearranged or replaced if they have lost elasticity.

When unscrewing the bolts, hold the compressor housing with your other hand. After the last fastener is removed, it may suddenly slip off, causing it to hit the floor or damage nearby components of the refrigerator. The weight of the unit is from 10 to 15 kg, which is quite noticeable.

Removal of the compressor and disposal

The final stage is physical removal motor-compressor from the niche. Since access is often limited, assistance from a second person or use of a lever may be required. The main thing is not to damage the evaporator or other elements of the cooling system located nearby.

If you plan to install a new compressor, immediately close the technological holes of the old unit with plugs or tape to prevent dust and moisture from getting inside. For a new motor, this is critically important - even a microscopic amount of moisture inside the system can cause the capillary to freeze.

The old compressor cannot simply be thrown into the trash can. This is electronic equipment containing non-ferrous metals and technical fluid residues. It should be taken to a scrap metal collection point or a specialized household appliance recycling center.

• 🏗️ Carefully remove the unit without touching the rear grille.
• 🔒 Seal the pipes of the new compressor before installation.
• 🧹 Clean the niche from dust and spilled oil before installation.
• 🗑️ Recycle the old unit, do not store it at home.

In some cases, especially in older models, the compressor may be welded to the frame or have non-standard fastenings. Then dismantling turns into a more complex operation that requires a grinder or a hacksaw to cut off the supports.

Typical errors during disassembly

Many novice craftsmen neglect simple rules, which leads to complications. One of the most common mistakes is trying to bend copper tubes by hand without pre-heating or using a pipe bender. Copper breaks easily when repeatedly bent, forming cracks that are difficult to solder.

Another common problem is loss of fasteners. Bolts and nuts often fall behind the refrigerator and get lost in the grass or on the garage floor. Use a magnetic tray or jar to collect all the small parts as you work.

⚠️ Attention: Do not try to open the compressor body itself (cut off the top cover with a grinder) unless you plan to make an ottoman or an airbrush compressor out of it. Inside there is a high-voltage winding and a complex mechanical system, the repair of which at home is not economically feasible.

It is also a mistake to ignore the condition of the vibration supports. Installing a new or refurbished motor on old, “wooden” rubber will result in strong noise and vibration of the refrigerator during operation. Always check the elasticity of these elements.

Replacing the compressor is only half the battle. After installing a new unit, the system will definitely need to be evacuated and refilled with freon. Without professional equipment (a vacuum pump and a pressure gauge station), it will not be possible to start the refrigerator correctly.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Is it possible to disassemble the refrigerator compressor to repair it yourself?

Theoretically, the housing can be cut off, but there is little practical sense in this. Inside are precision parts that require factory assembly under vacuum. Repairs will cost more than purchasing a new unit, and the service life of the restored motor will be minimal.

Is it dangerous to breathe freon vapors during disassembly?

Short-term inhalation of small amounts of freon (R134a or R600a) does not cause instant poisoning, but can cause dizziness. However, isobutane (R600a) is explosive at a concentration in air of more than 1.3%, so you need to work in a ventilated area and without sparks.

Do you need to solder the tubes when replacing the compressor?

Yes, connecting the copper tubes of the new compressor to the refrigerator system is carried out only by brazing. The use of glue or sealants is unacceptable, since they will not withstand pressure and temperature.

How much oil is in the compressor and does it need to be added?

The volume of oil is strictly regulated by the manufacturer (usually 250-350 ml). When replacing a compressor, a new unit is often already filled with transport oil, which must be drained and replaced with fresh oil corresponding to the type of freon (mineral or polyester).