A sudden stop in the operation of refrigeration equipment often becomes an unpleasant surprise, especially when there are perishable products in the chambers. Owners of household appliances Indesit are the first to notice alarming symptoms: the absence of a characteristic hum, warm walls or, conversely, excessive heating of the rear grille. Before calling a technician or buying a new unit, you need to understand what exactly has gone wrong, because often the problem lies in compressorwhich is the heart of the entire system.
The refrigerator motor is a complex electromechanical unit responsible for the circulation of refrigerant throughout the circuit. If it stops starting or works intermittently, no cold is generated. Do-it-yourself diagnosis allows you to save significant money, since calling a specialist to simply ring the windings can be expensive. However
In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions that will help determine the condition of your motor Indesit. We will look at external signs of a malfunction, methods of checking with a multimeter and the nuances of the start relay. A competent approach to analyzing the situation will allow you to make the right decision: limit yourself to replacing inexpensive parts or prepare for more complex repairs.
Primary visual diagnostics and sound analysis
The first stage of any repair is a thorough inspection and listening to a running (or trying to start) unit. Refrigerators Indesit are known for their reliability, but even they are subject to wear and tear. Come close to the device and listen. If you hear a low hum that ends abruptly with a click, this indicates a startup attempt that is being interrupted by the safety system. In such a situation, the compressor itself is often to blame. starting relay or the compressor itself.
Pay attention to the temperature of the motor housing. If the engine hums, but does not start the cooling system, and at the same time it becomes hot in a matter of minutes, this is a bad sign. Normal operation is accompanied by moderate heating, but not to the point where the metal surface cannot be touched. Also inspect the wires going to the compressor: there should be no traces of melting, soot or mechanical damage to the insulation.
⚠️ Attention: If you smell burning wiring or see sparking in the terminal box area, immediately stop trying to start and disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. Further operation may lead to a short circuit.
Often owners confuse an engine malfunction with a thermostat failure. To exclude this option, try forcibly closing the thermostat contacts (after studying the circuit diagram of your model). If after this manipulation the motor does not respond, the problem is localized in the compressor circuit. It is impossible to visually assess the integrity of the windings, so a deeper check with tools will be required.
Necessary tools for checking the compressor
For high-quality diagnostics, you will need a minimum set of tools that most home craftsmen can find. The main device will be multimeter (tester), which allows you to measure the resistance of the windings and check the circuit for breakdown. Without this device, diagnostics will be only speculative, which is unacceptable when deciding to replace an expensive unit.
You will also need pliers, screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead) to remove the protective casing, and possibly wire cutters. If you plan to not only check, but also replace the compressor, you will need additional tools for working with copper pipes, but a basic set is enough for an initial check. Do not forget to prepare gloves, as the internal components may be contaminated with technical oil or dust.
It is important to make sure that your multimeter is working properly and that the batteries are not discharged. Incorrect instrument readings may lead to misdiagnosis. Switch the tester to resistance (Ohms) measurement mode before starting the test. Make sure that the probes are intact and that the insulation on them is not broken.
Removing the protective casing and accessing the terminals
To get to the electrical part of the engine, you need to remove the rear protective panel of the refrigerator Indesit. It is usually secured with several screws or latches. After removing the panel, you will see a black cylindrical or pear-shaped cylinder - this is the compressor. In its lower part there is a terminal box, closed with a plastic or metal box.
Carefully remove the terminal box cover. Inside you will see three contacts to which the wiring fits, and the block itself with a start and thermal relay. This is where we will take measurements. Before disconnecting the wires, it is strongly recommended to photograph the connection diagram so as not to confuse the terminals during assembly, although it is physically difficult to confuse them due to the shape of the connectors.
☑️ Preparation for measurements
Now you need to remove the starting relay along with the thermal protector from the compressor contacts. It is usually simply put on top and secured with a bracket or spring. Be careful: there may be heavy metal parts inside the relay that could damage the floor or break if dropped. After removing the relay, you will have access to three pins on the motor itself, forming a triangle.
Checking the motor windings with a multimeter
The most reliable way to find out the condition of the motor is to measure the resistance of its windings. On the compressor housing or in the technical documentation there is often a diagram indicating which contact is responsible for what, but we can determine this experimentally. Three contacts form a triangle: two lower and one upper (or located according to the diagram). We need to find starting, working and general windings.
Attach the multimeter probes to the pairs of contacts. You need to get three resistance values. The sum of the resistances between two pairs of contacts should be equal to the resistance of the third pair. For example, if there is a resistance of 20 ohms between contacts A and B, and 10 ohms between B and C, then there should be 30 ohms between A and C (or vice versa, depending on the type of windings). Typically, the working winding has the lowest resistance, the starting winding has an average resistance, and the sum gives the total resistance.
| Winding type | Expected resistance (Ohm) | Contact location | Probable malfunction |
|---|---|---|---|
| Working | 10 - 25 Ohm | Lowest value | Open circuit |
| Starting | 20 - 40 Ohm | Average value | Interturn closure |
| Total | Sum of the other two | Maximum value | Incorrect measurements |
| House | Infinity (∞) | Any contact - body | Ground breakdown |
If the multimeter shows one (infinity) on any of windings, which means there was break wires inside the motor. It is almost impossible to restore such a motor. If the resistance is close to zero, this indicates a short interturn circuit. In both cases, the motor must be replaced.
What to do if the readings “float”?
If the numbers on the multimeter screen change quickly or show unstable values, this may indicate poor contact of the probes or the presence of moisture inside the windings. Try cleaning the contacts with sandpaper and warming up the compressor with a hairdryer (without overheating!). If the situation has not changed, the winding is damaged.
Diagnostics for insulation breakdown (short circuit)
One of the most dangerous malfunctions is an insulation breakdown, when an electric current begins to pass through the compressor housing. This not only disables the equipment, but also poses a risk of electric shock to the user. To check, set the multimeter to the resistance measurement mode at the maximum limit (Megaohms) or to the “continuity” mode.
Press one probe to any of the three contacts on the compressor, and the second to a clean, unpainted part of the metal engine housing or a copper tube. The device should show infinity (one in the most significant digit). If you hear a beep or see resistance values other than infinity, it means the insulation is broken.
⚠️ Attention: Operating a refrigerator with a compressor broken into the housing is strictly prohibited! This can lead to an electric shock when touching the metal parts of the refrigerator or the floor next to it.
Often a breakdown occurs due to aging of the varnish coating of the wires inside the windings or overheating. In conditions of high humidity in the room where it is located Indesit, the risk of such a breakdown increases. If the test shows a breakdown, further resuscitation of the engine does not make sense; a complete replacement of the unit is required.
Checking the starting relay and thermal insulator
Before writing off the engine itself, you need to make sure that its “suite” is in good working order - the starting relay and thermal insulator. It is these elements that often fail before the motor itself. The relay is responsible for briefly supplying voltage to the starting winding, and the heat shield turns off the power when overheated.
Remove the relay and shake it near your ear. If you hear the sound of broken glass or loose parts inside, it means the posistor (ceramic element) is destroyed. Also check the integrity of the bimetallic thermal conductor plate. When cold, it should close the circuit (ring when dialed). If the circuit is broken, the protection has tripped and does not return to its original state, or the element has burned out.
Replacement of these components is inexpensive and often solves the problem of “non-starting” of a working engine. However, if, after replacing the relay, the motor hums for a few seconds and turns off again, and the current in the circuit exceeds the norm (more than 2-3 Amperes for household models), it means that the compressor itself is jammed or there is an interturn short circuit in its windings that is not visible when testing the resistance.
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Is it possible to repair a burnt-out compressor of an Indesit refrigerator?
At home, rewind the windings of a modern a hermetic compressor is not possible. This requires special equipment to open the case, wind the wire and, most importantly, vacuum and seal the case. It makes more economic sense to buy a new or used compressor assembly.
Why does a new compressor get hotter than the old one?
Modern engines often operate at higher temperatures due to the use of new types of refrigerants and energy efficiency requirements. If the body temperature does not exceed 80-90 degrees and the refrigerator freezes, this may be normal. However, if it is hot to the point where the plastic melts, check the ventilation system and the cleanliness of the condenser.
How to distinguish compressor noise from fan noise?
In refrigerators Indesit with a No Frost system, the fan may make noise. If the sound stops when you open the door of the refrigerator or freezer (depending on the design), then the problem is in the fan or the evaporator is frozen. The compressor usually continues to hum regardless of the position of the door.
Which compressor is better to replace: the original or an analogue?
Original compressors (for example, Embraco or Asperawhich are often used at the Indesit factory) are preferable in terms of build quality and compliance with specifications. However, high-quality analogues (Danfoss, Secop) also do an excellent job if the power and type of refrigerant are selected correctly. The main thing is to avoid cheap Chinese analogues without labeling.